Broadly if you want to isolate a valve block/solenoid issue, you can carefully depressurise the system and springs, then swap left for right air lines at the valve block. Then let the system build up pressure and set to a height, since you've broken the feedback loop you should watch this moment closely and be ready to stop it getting out of hand, however they should go up together and so switch each other off at almost the same time so it's no big deal. Then remove timer and see what happens.

***You could also do front for rear but i would raise it manually via software or field recovery/jumpering if your doing that.

 

Thanks Larry.

Yesterday I remove the valve block and put out of the box using longer tubes with pneumatic fast connectors. Sprayed the solenoids with soap and fix two tiny leaks over the solenoid ground, sprayed again and with no bubbles over the block (tube rings, solenoids ground of other union), mounted into his place again.

I've got the Nanocom Evolution and could depressurize, open/close and watch sensor data easily.

Filled the system (9.5 bar) allright and set the high mode. After overnight with door opened I've discovered again the car with the front-right over the bump stop, the front-left down, the rear side (both springs) at high height. And the tank doesn't lose pressure.

I'm frustrated, the only ideas that comes to my mind are from easy to difficult:
1. Cut a little the tubes. Once connected and sprayed doesn't leaks but maybe they're slightly scratched of put/remove for testing purposes and the leaks are so tiny that are not visible at all.
2. Review again the air-springs. They're new but could damage of going from top to empty so many times. Extrange :/
3. The NRV valves because they're not visible from outside. Wich makes me crazy is that the car only goes down from front airsprings.

If all this didn't work, I'm thinking seriously moving to springs and sell all the EAS parts. It is a pitty because I drove with EAS before the nightmare and was lovely.

 

This photo was taken with the test tubes installed and after resolve the little leaks where solenoid seats over the valve block.

And this photo is one solenoid making bubbles where electric cable goes into.

At first I though that it was a problem with the solenoid and I changed it with a new one (stc2761 part) but still bubbles wich makes me thinks that is normal when water comes in contact with the cable.

 

With all those lines i'm sure you can do this easier than most and you know your way round safely depressurising the system, what happens (overnight, or whatever the time frame is to notice the issue) if you set the rear at a normal height but you remove the fronts totally, i.e loop back the hose from a front port into the other front port, so you close the system up but your fronts (in terms of spring pressure) are now out of the equation - note the results then swap - loop back (remove) the rears but set the fronts at the same height.

Ultimately your solenoids are leaking internally - into the common manifold - and across the corners, which why no one really finds any leaks as there aren't any..externally.

 

Hi

Bubbles leaking to the outside are a signal that there is air leaking from the solenoid stem 0-rings.
You have done quite a bit of work troubleshooting your system. Internal leaks can only be solved with renewal of the o-rings.

If there is due to an internal leak a connection between the springs, the heaviest parts of the vehicle will go down and the lightest will go up if the pressure is all springs are becoming equal.

Regards

Jos

 

Bubbles leaking to the outside are a signal that there is air leaking from the solenoid stem 0-rings.
You have done quite a bit of work troubleshooting your system. Internal leaks can only be solved with renewal of the o-rings.

If there is due to an internal leak a connection between the springs, the heaviest parts of the vehicle will go down and the lightest will go up if the pressure is all springs are becoming equal.

I removed and installed two sets of new o-rings from two different providers. First time I found that two internal o-rings where bite, nerves and unexperienced. The second time I've installed all the solenoid/valves o-rings, except the collat what didn't leaks and the NRVs.

Related to the internal leaks. When you said a connection between springs, what means? As I understand from Hardrange scheme (http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/EAS-ValveBlock-v1.5.pdf) the 4 valve/solenoids are connected with inlet and exhaust, they are closed by default and opens with inlet valve for rise up and with exhaust valve for going down/levelling.

With this in mind if rear springs didn't lose air then those valves are ok and close fine. I'm looking the scheme and comes to my mind that if I'm loosing air only in front, the only way is that one of the front valves/solenoid or both are leaking or didn't close at all.

Imagine that the valve didn't close well and the air goes away from the spring through the valve. It goes into the blue line the other valves springs are close, try to go way through the inlet valve because the NRV must maintain into. But imagine that the NRV didn't leaks too, then goes away through the exahust circuit and bye bye.

Mad and crazy ideas :shock:

loop back the hose from a front port into the other front port, so you close the system up but your fronts (in terms of spring pressure) are now out of the equation - note the results then swap - loop back (remove) the rears but set the fronts at the same height.
​

Lets work on the trail of the leak, as a good detective. I could loop the rear circuit because it is allright, and inspect what's happening with front springs. But I could tell you what is happening, they goes down after some hours and not bubbles visible except those over the electric-wires.

All this gives to me a great headache, anyway thanks for help and support. At least we could order the facts and analize the problem.

 

LarryS don't worry for translation, at least i'm a little sensitive with this issue and english is not my mother tongue.

Trying to understand what is happening and looking to isolate the fault. For first I draw the two air circuits playing this game.

The first circuit is wich connects airsprings with inlet and exhaust valves, here the air travels free. And the second one is the input from air tank through the NRV.

Due to the air tank is continuously pushing air to the airspring circuit through inlet valve and air tank don't loose air (that is a fact tested) I could understand that inlet is closing allright and don't leaks.

How to test the NRV? Maybe this is not relevant cause the inlet is closing allright and if air is not going into from the air tank it is not going out following the same way.

Now turn for Exahust. If I close the Front, Could we test if exhaust is leaking? It needs air and Rear valves are working fine don't loosing air. And If I close the Rear valves and Front is loosing the exahust receives air uffff missed here :/

Sorry but I'm not able to see a clear way. Maybe I'm worrying more than necessary and the matter is such a simple question like to get that front valves don't loose aire?

Headache again grr. Thanks for all your support!!

 

Today I changed the air lines and the problem still persists. Tomorrow while comes another valve block of a friend, I'll try Jos tip of driving with relay disconnected for testing the airsprings.

When you're near to solve the little eas problems, for me the worst is to wait all the night long and discover next morning that still goes down.

 

Just a couple of observations really, not a solution.

I have found the quick connect push in connectors will leak if you make and break connection a few times. They are also not rated for the higher temperatures encountered under the bonnet (hood). Better to use Wade or equivalent brass connectors for a permanent connection.

Also I have tried other types of 6mm tubing such as polyethylene or polyurethane. They are too soft. The best is nylon and for the difference in price I would stay with OEM nylon from a dealer.

One final comment is that gauges can also leak.

 

Agree completely - keep it simple and avoid any unnecessary connectors and equipment.

 

Finally solved!! :dance:

The problem was not design, not electronics, not ... the real problem is that these cars are like baby toys. Let me explain with a pair of photos.

The valve chasis is made of ABS plastic

And it closes using two little bolts directly into the plastic



With time and at the second rebuild, the little bolt didn't make too much force and let scape air. If this piece is so vital for the good working of suspension, and it is stressed with vibrations, heat and other forces... why use bad plastics?

Now that the problem is solved, I replaced front tubes for new ones more flexibles and better quality. Todo replace the rear tubes and remove all the diagnostic pieces

Thanks!!!!