Most seasoned RR owners will already have this information, but for newbies like me, the following appears to be 'just the way it is'!! Like a lot of folks I bought my Rangie with only one working key/keyfob and no EKA [didnt even know it had one of those!].
Whilst what follows may not be a definative work on the subject of the P38 key fob, it should provide us newbies with the information to decide on how to best tackle the problem of a duff or missing key, heres the deal.
Fleabay regularly has used P38 fobs for sale :hand: . However all the advice that is in various Forums suggests that a used fob cannot be subsequntly reprogrammed to work on a different vehicle. Getting a new blade fitted and having that cut to suit is of course easy peasy, but although it will get you into the cab it wont get the engine running no matter what method of key syncronising is used.
I spoke to a locksmith I have used to sort out diffcult problems in the past, and he tells me that as far as he is aware [and he would know!] the range rover key fob cannot be reprogrammed, either by the dealer, or anyone else. So, dont be fooled by the 'needs to be reprogrammed' sh*t on the ebay description, what you are buying is a key that can only be used to input the EAS code - no bad thing, but equaly, no need to spend £60 when for a tenner or so a non chipped key blank can be cut for you by the local locksmith??? :idea:
This means that the only route is a NEW key fob either from the dealer or an auto locksmith - coincedentaly neither my man nor the local LR dealer had any P38 ones in stock, both were back ordered.
Of course it isnt that simple is it!! The replacement NEW key fob is programmed by LR to work on your particular vehicle, but, you need to know if your exsisting key is key, 1,2,3 or 4. This is because the cars computer will not syncronise 2x the same key ie two 'Key 1's ' for example. Whether this is a problem if you have no keys at all I didnt ask, but suspect the same still applies, in my case I have a working key so really need to know if it is a 1,2,3 or4 so I dont inadvertantly order the same key number at £144.68 inc Vat from the dealer [ non OE alternative/replacements might be cheaper, but I have a Range Rover and want a Range Rover key !!!}.
The key number is on the little decal on the rear face of the key fob - if you have no decal, like me, there is no way of decoding the key to determine its number. So to be safe you need to order a key 3 or key 4, on the assumption that when new the truck will have been supplied with an active Key1 and Key2 with an inactive Key3 and possibly Key4, and previous owners hopefully have not previously ordered an active key3/or4 to replace lost keys !?!?!?!
The Dealer can get the EKA code there and then for your vehicle on presentation of the vehicle VIN and naturaly, proof of ownership! - the V5 in our case in UK. This code when entered gives access to the cab `) and allows the engine to be started without an active key fob or working 'chip' just a correctly cut key blade `) . The computer gives you three attempts before it locks out the system for 30 mins - just what you need at night in the cold and rain /
. The engine management system stays inactive for 5 mins after the engine is subequently switched off and in that time the engine can be restarted using the inactive Key blade. After the system has reset itself you need to do the EKA thing again - not handy if you switched the motor off to save fuel [and be environmentlay aware!!] whilst on the highway in a traffic jam !
The Dealer highly recommended I tried the EKA procedure and familiarised myself with it [whlst I had a working key fob which will override any computer lockouts] before I had to do it for real on a cold dark and rainy night. A tip he gave was to peer into the cab at the dashboard as when inputting the EKA code one of the green indicator lamps lights up as the code is entered - looking at this might prevent inadvertant 'missing' a particualr sequence and causing a lock out.
I have not checked myself out on this process yet but will heed the dealers advice.
Succumbing to the inevitable I have ordered a new key from LR at £144.68, I will decide later what to do with the fleabay fob, perhaps i'll try and transplant my exsisting 'good' fobs internals into the fleabay carcass - which is in really good shape much better than my original, or just keep it as an EKA device.
Hope this helps someone not to waste [more] money!
Gordon
Whilst what follows may not be a definative work on the subject of the P38 key fob, it should provide us newbies with the information to decide on how to best tackle the problem of a duff or missing key, heres the deal.
Fleabay regularly has used P38 fobs for sale :hand: . However all the advice that is in various Forums suggests that a used fob cannot be subsequntly reprogrammed to work on a different vehicle. Getting a new blade fitted and having that cut to suit is of course easy peasy, but although it will get you into the cab it wont get the engine running no matter what method of key syncronising is used.
I spoke to a locksmith I have used to sort out diffcult problems in the past, and he tells me that as far as he is aware [and he would know!] the range rover key fob cannot be reprogrammed, either by the dealer, or anyone else. So, dont be fooled by the 'needs to be reprogrammed' sh*t on the ebay description, what you are buying is a key that can only be used to input the EAS code - no bad thing, but equaly, no need to spend £60 when for a tenner or so a non chipped key blank can be cut for you by the local locksmith??? :idea:
This means that the only route is a NEW key fob either from the dealer or an auto locksmith - coincedentaly neither my man nor the local LR dealer had any P38 ones in stock, both were back ordered.
Of course it isnt that simple is it!! The replacement NEW key fob is programmed by LR to work on your particular vehicle, but, you need to know if your exsisting key is key, 1,2,3 or 4. This is because the cars computer will not syncronise 2x the same key ie two 'Key 1's ' for example. Whether this is a problem if you have no keys at all I didnt ask, but suspect the same still applies, in my case I have a working key so really need to know if it is a 1,2,3 or4 so I dont inadvertantly order the same key number at £144.68 inc Vat from the dealer [ non OE alternative/replacements might be cheaper, but I have a Range Rover and want a Range Rover key !!!}.
The key number is on the little decal on the rear face of the key fob - if you have no decal, like me, there is no way of decoding the key to determine its number. So to be safe you need to order a key 3 or key 4, on the assumption that when new the truck will have been supplied with an active Key1 and Key2 with an inactive Key3 and possibly Key4, and previous owners hopefully have not previously ordered an active key3/or4 to replace lost keys !?!?!?!
The Dealer can get the EKA code there and then for your vehicle on presentation of the vehicle VIN and naturaly, proof of ownership! - the V5 in our case in UK. This code when entered gives access to the cab `) and allows the engine to be started without an active key fob or working 'chip' just a correctly cut key blade `) . The computer gives you three attempts before it locks out the system for 30 mins - just what you need at night in the cold and rain /
. The engine management system stays inactive for 5 mins after the engine is subequently switched off and in that time the engine can be restarted using the inactive Key blade. After the system has reset itself you need to do the EKA thing again - not handy if you switched the motor off to save fuel [and be environmentlay aware!!] whilst on the highway in a traffic jam !The Dealer highly recommended I tried the EKA procedure and familiarised myself with it [whlst I had a working key fob which will override any computer lockouts] before I had to do it for real on a cold dark and rainy night. A tip he gave was to peer into the cab at the dashboard as when inputting the EKA code one of the green indicator lamps lights up as the code is entered - looking at this might prevent inadvertant 'missing' a particualr sequence and causing a lock out.
I have not checked myself out on this process yet but will heed the dealers advice.
Succumbing to the inevitable I have ordered a new key from LR at £144.68, I will decide later what to do with the fleabay fob, perhaps i'll try and transplant my exsisting 'good' fobs internals into the fleabay carcass - which is in really good shape much better than my original, or just keep it as an EKA device.
Hope this helps someone not to waste [more] money!
Gordon
