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Engine disabled - Press remote or enter Keycode

24K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  Dtoyne  
#1 ·
Hi All,

Fresh into the joys of P38s and immediately need some help and guidance. After about a month of enjoying the drive, my P38 (1999, 4.6 V8 Vogue GEMS) seems to have been upset about something. Coming back to it after finishing work, it just wouldn't accept the remote key (only one key!) to unlock / lock. The red indicator lights up both for lock and unlock so assume key transmitter working (New batteries in the fob, btw)

Since then I have tried the following (after scouring through the posts here for 2 days):

1) Got the EKA code and tried entering it
2) The system goes into "Keycode Lockout" after the first entry of the code (not 3 as I was told by the user manual)
3) Tried the Battery terminals off, ignition key in II, terminals reconnect - I am now left with a myriad of windows open alarms, etc. but can live with them until)
4) I tried to contact Jamesons Birmingham (looking up the forum) but the chap says he has had enough and doesn't really have the time for jobs like these - at least he was honest!
5) Looked at it for a while and asked myself - why did I! (But eventually gathered strength to try the EKA code again)
6) EKA code locked out again - However, it does seem to reset itself so is not in the "alarmed state" as I have read here

I want to know what could be the fault - From the readings so far, I believe this could be - Key, Door Lock actuator or worst- the BECM and I need some guidance as to where to start from.

Also any suggestions for a local garage - South Brum who has a diagnostic kit and would possible identify the issue?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
#2 ·
Are you entering the eka correctly ? Lock position 4 times before starting the code at unlock, Are the indicators flashing on each change ? If yes to these questions, a nanocom/faultmate might do it, but you could have a becm problem . If code not entering ( indicators flashing) you could have a faulty door latch.
 
#3 ·
Try re-syncing the key with the BECM. Place key in door lock press the fob lock button then immediately physically lock the door using the key. Then press the unlock button on the fob and immediately physically unlock the door using the key. Remove key and see if fob will now lock/unlock the vehicle.
 
#4 ·
Hi Chris,

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have entered the correct code with the correct procedure - Also tried to use the US generic code 1515 to see if that works (hope mixed with desperation, I think!)

Indicators do not flash with each change unfortunately hence not sure the code is going in. Will try to get a local who's got a Nanocom or Faultmate.
 
#6 ·
This all sounds like a failed latch or a disconnected keyway rod. If the latch is not getting the signal that you are turning the key then there is no way to input the EKA or sync your remote.

When you turn the key are you feeling standard resistance or is it freely turning? If you are not feeling resistance your keyway rod may have come undone from the latch. If you are feeling resistance the your latch may have failed. I would not be concerned with the BeCM yet. BeCM failure is usually pretty rare and bits usually trace back to the latch.

I would remove the door panel, inspect for anything obviously disconnected or broken and test the latch following the stickie above.
 
#8 ·
Hi RRToadHall,

I can feel the resistance but will still try and get the car back home and play over the week or the weekend. My thoughts were if the BeCM were changed (did ask the seller but he doesn't know nor anything mentioned in the service history) then the code could be different and hence not working. But looks like the latch / Key rod along with the microswitch tests are the first to start with.

Would a plugin of the NANOCOM or similar be able to override this issue by accepting the keycode directly? Unless ofcourse it happens the next time round I'd need to put the keycode!

Thanks again
 
#10 ·
Unfortunately when a p38 throws a wobberly, it's not as easy as inserting the key,, stupid I know !
The door latch has rods attached to it, one of them also hits the micro switches for entering the eka. Have a look at the sticky on latch testing, you might be lucky and it's just a disconnected rod, if not I'm sure there's someone near you with a faultmate
 
#11 ·
If you have a BECM with version V36 of higher of software on it, then it will accept the EKA (in theory) via nanocom or other diagnostics which allow you to disarm the BECM via the OBD port.

If the BECM is in a state where it is requiring the EKA then usually you can't just put the key in the ignition and have it sort itself out. I've heard of it doing it on some occasions - but as far as I can see there is no actual rhyme or reason for it to actually work, as the EKA lockout is different to resyncing the key.

My first port of call would be to test the door latch, and check the state of the microswitches. If they all are working, (I suspect that one of them might be the initial problem preventing the EKA from being accepted - as already mentioned - it needs BOTH the CDL and key switches to work properly before the BECM will be able to read the key turns of the EKA properly.

Worst case is that the BECM has gone into an alarm lockout mode, which needs specialist diagnostics to connect to the CPU and reset this lockout. If that is the case, then I have the tools to do it, and do a lot of BECM lockout resets by mail order, but also sometimes have owners bring the unit to me if they aren't too far away.

First things first, check the latch. If that's faulty, then get it sorted and try the EKA again - after waiting the prescribed amount of time for KEYCODE LOCKOUT to disappear again.

Marty
 
#12 ·
Hi I Just replaced my drivers latch last week. I had random up and down locks for a while. Then it thought my alarm was still on and I did the key back and forth to get it to turn off alarm so it would start. I ordered this
http://www.roverlandparts.com/range-rover-door-latches.aspx
from these guys(I had no pigtail very important) and the very morning I went to put it in I could not get the alarm off so I could not drive anymore. Unscrewed my alarm speaker so it would not sound with lights flashing put in the new latch and everything went back to perfect.
Good luck
 
#15 ·
Hi I Just replaced my drivers latch last week. I had random up and down locks for a while. Then it thought my alarm was still on and I did the key back and forth to get it to turn off alarm so it would start. I ordered this
Roverland Parts - Your source for Land Rover Parts
from these guys(I had no pigtail very important) and the very morning I went to put it in I could not get the alarm off so I could not drive anymore. Unscrewed my alarm speaker so it would not sound with lights flashing put in the new latch and everything went back to perfect.
Good luck
Hi I have a question in relation to this. I'm in Aus and my 97 HSE yesterday refused to work off the fob and start. Battery fully charged but on jump starting car fired up. Half hour later stopped at a shop to get something and key locked as fob still not working. Came back out key unlocked and alarm went off when opened door. Shut door and key locked again and alarm switched off. Unlocked and alarm went off again when opened door. Called wife to come and try a jump start (HIGHLY UNIMPRESSED) to no avail. then engine disabled flashed up on dash and a call to road service had them out, couldn't fix and tilt trayed home 4 hours later. Its just after 11 pm here so too late to try the key in the lock trick but can't locate anyone here who has the door latches. So in regard to that what is the pigtail bit about as I don't want to have to get mine out and then have to put it back in while waiting a month for a replacement?
 
#14 ·
Is this the same one as going around on LandyZone aswell? I was reading it there and thinking it looked familiar from somewhere - and confused myself thinking I was sure I had replied about it! Which I had... just on a different forum!

The sticker on the top of the BECM fuse box (might be a bit faded) should have the info about versions on it. There should be a Micro: V 'xx' and PAM: V 'xx' on it which are the software numbers. If these are above 36, then you should be able to enter the EKA via diagnostics of the appropriate type!

Marty
 
#16 ·
An overheat is more likely to happen when idling for long periods that when being driven. If you get the chance give it a high speed blast, then let it idle and see if the temperature rises. They all vary a bit, mine never goes above 95 degrees no matter how hot the ambient or how hard it has been working, others can run 10 degrees hotter than that. If it goes higher than that all is not well. Confirm the dashboard temperature gauge is reading at 12 o'clock when hot. Squeeze the top hose when it is up to temperature, it should be firm but not rock hard.

Check the EAS after it has been running for 10 minutes or so (to be sure the reservoir is full if it has been standing prior to you seeing it) by dropping it to Access mode then straight up to High. It should respond immediately and take no more than 10 seconds to go from one height to the other. It will lift the back first to almost there, then the front to level it up, then the back and finally the front again. This is done so there is never a situation when the front is higher than the back which means you could dazzle others with your headlights. Check the HEVAC (heater controls) and see if there is a book symbol showing at bottom right of the display. This signifies it has detected a fault. It will come on if it tries to engage the AC compressor clutch but it needs regassing. Press the AC OFF button, turn the engine off, wait 20 seconds then restart. If the book was due to the lack of refrigerant (meaning the clutch won't kick in as the pressure switch won't let it) it will no longer be there. If it comes back with AC OFF pressed, it has detected another fault during the power on self test. Most common one here is a failed or stuck blend motor. During the initial test, all 3 blend motors are driven from one end of their travel to the other to check for movement and the expected feedback. If any fail it will no longer try to operate that blend motor. Sods law says they will always fail in the most inconvenient mode, flat out heat in mid-summer of maximum cold in the middle of winter. After it has been run for a while, check the centre console carpet on the drivers side (by the footrest) to make sure it isn't damp. If it is, there is a leak from the heater core O rings. Again, a cheap (two O rings at £3 each) fix but fiddly if you haven't done it before.

Coolant leaks need to be bad to notice them from underneath. Oil leaks are almost a standard feature but they shouldn't be bad enough for it to mark its territory when parked. If it looks wet and oily, that isn't good. If it is just oil stained that is normal.

Key fobs may not work if the battery has been allowed to go flat and they haven't been synced. Check that the red LED flashes when a button is pressed. If it does but they don't lock or unlock the car, try to sync them. With all doors, bonnet and tailgate closed, put the key in the driver's door lock. Turn to lock (anti-clockwise), hold it there and press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster. Release the button on the fob then turn the key back to centre. Tur the key to unlock (clockwise) and do the same with the unlock button. This should sync the fob to the car and the centre locking will now work on the remote fob. If it doesn't, the sync may have failed due to worn microswitches in the door latch (usually caused by the key being used all the time rather than the remote) and it is going to lock you out sooner rather than later.

Check that it has the original Security card with the radio and EKA codes on it. If it doesn't have the card, does it have them on a separate piece of paper or written in the handbook?
Hi Richard I have a question in relation to your last paragraph. As you may remember I'm in Aus ( and no my airbags still aren't fixed as my cords only arrived this week from the P38 spares site so bags bypassed at moment) and my 97 HSE yesterday refused to work off the fob and start. Battery fully charged but on jump starting car fired up. Half hour later stopped at a shop to get something and key locked as fob still not working. Came back out key unlocked and alarm went off when opened door. Shut door and key locked again and alarm switched off. Unlocked and alarm went off again when opened door. Called wife to come and try a jump start (HIGHLY UNIMPRESSED) to no avail. Then engine disabled flashed up on dash and a call to road service had them out, couldn't fix and tilt trayed home 4 hours later. Its just after 11 pm here so too late to try the key in the lock trick but can't locate anyone here who has the door latches. So in regard to that what is the this pigtail bit about in the link below as I don't want to have to get mine out and then have to put it back in while waiting a month for a replacement? This in regard to this comment from Jan 2017...
Hi I Just replaced my drivers latch last week. I had random up and down locks for a while. Then it thought my alarm was still on and I did the key back and forth to get it to turn off alarm so it would start. I ordered this
Roverland Parts - Your source for Land Rover Parts
from these guys(I had no pigtail very important) and the very morning I went to put it in I could not get the alarm off so I could not drive anymore. Unscrewed my alarm speaker so it would not sound with lights flashing put in the new latch and everything went back to perfect.
Good luck
 
#17 ·
I've moved this post to a more appropriate thread as it wasn't really relevant to the one you posted in.

Presumably it normally works on the fob? If so, and it wouldn't on the first time you tried, either you were suffering from RF interference, or the fob and the car had lost sync. I suspect the latter as although you say the battery was fully charged, it needed a jump start to get it going. If you have a loose battery terminal, that would work as you would be attaching the jump leads to the terminal and not to the battery. Equally, if the power had been disconnected, that would cause the fob to need to be re-synced. If you then locked it with the key and unlocked it with the key, it should be fine unless the keyswitch microswitch in the latch has failed so it thinks someone has smashed the window and unlocked using the sill button. Hence the alarm going off and the immobiliser being active and giving you the engine disabled message. You might be able to persuade the switch to work by moving the key to unlock a few times and watching the alarm LED on top of the dash. Once you turn to unlock and that stops flashing, you've done it.

If your fob was working before, once the alarm and immobiliser is off, you can resync the fob by making sure all doors and tailgate are closed, putting the key in the door lock, turning to lock, holding there and while holding it there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED on it starts to flash faster. Release the fob button then turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock and do the same only using the unlock button on the fob this time. That will sync the fob to the car so you can use the fob to lock and unlock again while you wait for a replacement door latch.

There are 3 different latches fitted but all are interchangeable. The early ones, up to VIN VA351307, have the socket on the latch itself, ones from WA351308 to WA410481 have the wires coming out of the latch with two sockets on a short flying lead (presumably what is being referred to as a pigtail in the older thread) and finally the late one, from VIN XA410482 onwards which have the flying lead but a different plug (a single 8 way plug instead of a 6 way and 1 way). You can fit the middle one to an early car and you'll just have a bit of spare cable to tuck away somewhere. You can't fit the very early one as the cables aren't long enough to reach the latch.
 
#18 ·
As you are in OZ, I can tell you that if you park within a few car spaces of a Telstra public phone, your remote locking wont work, so as Richard says, RF interference. All Telstra street phones are Wi-Fi bases and tend to screw up your central locking. Had the same with mine yesterday. Fortunately mine is well behaved and locks and unlocks on the key with no further issues.