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Hi,

my Lr4 is from 2010 and has 231k km on the odo. Last year I have the Landy imported from Canada to me in Germany The tensioner and guides work was done at 2016 at 170 k km. But now I have sometimes a tickling at warm idle. And in the last 2 months was 4 times the yellow engine light on in the dash for a short time and in the workshop say to me it was camshaft issue on right bank. When the car is very cold in the morning it starts quite and have a littler higher calm idle. When I start to drive idle is normal.
Sometimes I have a whining noise at 1700 to 2300 rpm.
Now I hope I must not do the timing job again.
Has anybody any ideas?

Thanks, Michael.
 

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2011 RR 5.0 SC
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For future reference - I have a 2011 5.0 S/C RR and can say that with at least one of the ~$200 eBay toolsets, the long puller bolt cannot fit with the radiator in, probably maxes out at an angle of 30 degrees when trying to fit in unless I'm just totally brain dead. I'm considering cutting the end of the bolt as it doesn't seem to need to be that long, would use double-stacked nuts to turn the bolt.

A tip if you want the crank to be easier to remove is to use a torque multiplier. A 3.5x one is about $200 on Amazon, makes it fairly easy to untighten (and easily fits with narrow clearance vs. an impact gun).

Wow, to get the radiator out you have to remove the headlights and front bumper!? What a pain.
 

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I realize this is an old thread but it is INVALUABLE for those of us needing to do this repair. I am grateful for it and in everyone's debt. I just finished this procedure (haven't quite put it all back together yet) and wanted to clarify a couple steps and add some short cuts. This all relates to 2010-2012 L322s.

1) We all must realize the procedure listed in the attached PDF is written assuming we have done some things a lot might not have done and one is - REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS. I skipped this at first and when I went to put the crank pulley bolt back in to crank clockwise to find TDC I cranked it to the spec for this in the PDF which was 20NM and WRONG. The torque for this step should be 50NM (see any other 5.0 service manual) but even then the bolt always loosened when trying to crank it. It's then I realized they determined this torque assuming you have removed the spark plugs. So after doing that, the crank turned over easily with the 50NM of torque applied to the bolt.

2) newmanium's post above is correct - there is no way using the proper LR style pulley removal tool kit that you can get the long removal bolt in without removing the radiator. It's just an impossibility , full stop. I'm sure there are other crank pullers that can do it but mine was the LR style. So reading the manual for the radiator removal you'll find they want you to remove the bumper, the lights, the hood latch panel and some even suggest removing the condenser which of course involves evacuating the AC. Thinking I needed to do this, I chickened out 4 months ago when I heard my first chain tick. But after finally getting the dreaded startup misfire code the other morning I realized I had to dive in. The good news is, you DO NOT have to remove the bumper, the lights and certainly not any of the AC to get the radiator out. You just have to remove the hood latch panel and you don't even need to disconnect the latching wires underneath it. From there you can free everything blocking the radiator and it will just slip up and out. Truly, the whole process only took me 15 minutes as all the hoses are disconnected anyway. And there's so much more room with that radiator out of the way. What I did do was chip off a bit of the plastic frame that curves around the bottom main radiator hose as the curve was preventing it from sliding out easily (you'll see what I mean when you get there). It doesn't harm anything and makes getting it in and out a hell of a lot easier.

3) The top RH valve cover bolt that part of the fuel rail assembly slips over was so long it makes it impossible to lift off the fuel rail assembly without disconnecting unions further down the line. I realized it was only about 1/4" too long so I hack sawed off the top tip (which is not threaded) and cleaned up the remaining threads. This changes nothing in terms of the security and the mounting of the fuel rail but made it effortless to get it up and out of the way.

4) The Timing Tensioner Defect Itself: Having now done this I realize what the problem is. My particular 5.0 at 120k was running perfectly. Looking through the oil fill spout I would probe my chains weekly and they were super tight, never even once were they loose. But upon dismantle the tensioners were totally shot. So peeking at the chains and knowing they are tight is not buying you time, it is delaying the inevitable as I realize now ALL 5.0 V8s will have this issue, some later than others depending on the service interval and oil type, but they are all going to die by tensioner failure if you don't get at them. As many have posted, the tensioner digs into the soft aluminum on the old guides and then extends enough so that it can no longer keep proper tension BUT in the process of doing that the tensioner pin gets wedged into the hole it has been digging and gets twisted side to side as the guide moves which ultimately fouls the pin in its bore. The ratcheting mechanism that's in there that functions to keep tension when the engine is off and the oil has bled out will then no longer work. In most cases the tensioner is wedged into the bore enough that it won't just fall to the bottom but sometimes it does and when that happens of course there is no tension on the chain at start up and disaster is possible. BOTH my tensioners could not retract freely nor would either one's ratcheting mechanism work as it had been distorted from having the pin wedged into the guide for all those miles. So my theory is it's not the pin hyperextending. It's the pin dropping at some point down into the bore at a distorted angle and getting stuck enough that even hydraulic pressure won't free it. In any case, IMHO there is no preventive maintenance that can change this. It a s*** design. JLR knew it for years, did nothing about it and for this reason I have zero respect for them. FWIW, the changeover for these new tensioners and guides was not 2013. Plenty of 2013 and 2014s have this issue as it was in the early months of 2014 (April, May?) that the assembly line finally changed over to the new parts. So if you have a 2014 5.0 RR that was built in late 2013 I'd bet money you will have this issue. A fairly simple way to tell is fish a bore cam through the oil fill spout towards either the LH guide or tensioner and hunt for the part number stamped on its side. You don't have to see all of it, just the starting two alpha characters. It they are not "FX" you have the old tensioners and guides. As a used RR buying guide tip to know what you're buying ahead of time, find a crack copy of the 2014 LR Microcat parts catalogue. In 2014 LR had not updated all its catalogues to show only the new guides and tensioners for 2010+ 5.0 V8s, they just show you what part number came with the car. So if you enter in the vin and search for the tensioner or the guide it will load up the part your engine had when new. This is why I am not sure of the changeover as I am just entering vins for cars I might want to buy but I have never entered in a 2013 vin that had the new parts nor have I ever found a Jan, Feb 2014 build that had the new parts. The first I found was an April 2014 with the new parts. Do your homework on this one. If someone has the old guides/tensioners on a car I'm looking at I ask for 3-5k off the price or walk away.

5) Tensioner install: I chose to not remove the pin until I installed rather that extending and collapsing the tensioner and replacing the pin. This seemed to work fine but when I cranked it over by hand 2 revolutions the tensioners made a click that freaked me out. So I removed one, extended and collapsed it and reinstalled. It made the same click. Which I finally realized was NORMAL. When installing new tensioners of course they are free of oil so hydraulics are not in play. It's only the ratcheting mechanism that is applying minimal tension and stopping the pin from falling back into the bore (the same as a cold start condition) so you know they are in correctly if you can lever against them and push the pin back about halfway but then meet resistance. As the PDF states, if you can push the pins all the way back into the bore they're installed incorrectly so try again.

6) I removed the RH wheel well plastics and inner lower plastics but realized I could get the starter free and pushed aside to install the flywheel locking tool without doing that. Skip it, saves about an hour.

7) Sealant: The manual calls for Loctite 5901G. Good luck finding it and then paying for it. Permatex Ultra Grey is almost the exact same spec. $7.99.

8) Crank bolt: Always buy a NEW one as the manual warns. My 2010 had a head gasket job done at a dealer before I bought it. The guy did a phenomenal job but used the old bolt. It actually spun off! Thank God the pulley stayed put or I would have been junking the car. And spend the money on a torque multiplier. You'll use it for so many things, it's just great to have around. Torqueing the crank pulley bolt that extra 270 degrees is just effortless using it.

9) Checking the timing. Ages ago I bought the fuel pump timing plug and never used it. So after installing the tensioners, I cranked by hand twice until the crank keyway was at 6 oclock, the crank sensor tool fit snugly in the flywheel and the fuel pump timing plug slipped into its slot. Not essential but it gave me piece of mind. However, I will have to circle back and delete this post if at start up the engines implodes.

Again, thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I would have never attempted this without you.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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How bad is the job? Say, compared to doing the timing chains and tensioners on V8 4.0 Jag? How many hours? Some vendors state that the direct injection chain might stretch as well, and replacing it will require removing engine from the truck. How often does that happen? I know that there are JLR technicians on this forum ;)
 

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Would this procedure also Apply to the 4.4L in a 2008 Sport HSE ???
If not can someone point me to the procedure for that motor ?

vehicle started putting up P0016 code about a week ago, I replaced the Crank and Cam position sensors.
Cleared the codes and the light and codes came back on in less than 20 miles...
 

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Would this procedure also Apply to the 4.4L in a 2008 Sport HSE ???
If not can someone point me to the procedure for that motor ?

vehicle started putting up P0016 code about a week ago, I replaced the Crank and Cam position sensors.
Cleared the codes and the light and codes came back on in less than 20 miles...
I can't answer your question, as I haven't done the procedure. But I think its important to note that this procedure is designed for replacing the original tensioner and guide with the newer design that lasts longer on the 5.0 engine. It assumes that the chain and other hardware are in good shape. What mileage are you at? Its my understanding that on the 4.4, the life of the tensioners and guides are more similar to that of the chain so if you are having issues and are tearing it down, you should replace all the parts including the chain. In which case, this shortcut wouldn't apply.
 

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I can't answer your question, as I haven't done the procedure. But I think its important to note that this procedure is designed for replacing the original tensioner and guide with the newer design that lasts longer on the 5.0 engine. It assumes that the chain and other hardware are in good shape. What mileage are you at? Its my understanding that on the 4.4, the life of the tensioners and guides are more similar to that of the chain so if you are having issues and are tearing it down, you should replace all the parts including the chain. In which case, this shortcut wouldn't apply.
The vehicle has 120k miles on it.
probably a good Idea to replace the chain and other associated parts as well.
just have problems finding the info for that motor.
I bought a manual from Ebay (pdf download) it is 5500+ pages but poorly organized and hard to find the info you are looking for...
 

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The vehicle has 120k miles on it.
probably a good Idea to replace the chain and other associated parts as well.
just have problems finding the info for that motor.
I bought a manual from Ebay (pdf download) it is 5500+ pages but poorly organized and hard to find the info you are looking for...
Does using a text find not work or not work well on a PDF that size? Maybe they use some non standard terms. Not sure. Check this forum for the PDF links there are some freebies floating around for 4000 page manuals, 300 MB in size. Same one?


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Does using a text find not work or not work well on a PDF that size? Maybe they use some non standard terms. Not sure. Check this forum for the PDF links there are some freebies floating around for 4000 page manuals, 300 MB in size. Same one?


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Yes the text find is the only way I have been able to find anything so far,... But this manual covers the Diesel, the 4.2L, the 4.4L and a few other models, so your not always sure which vehicle your looking at when you find something unless you scroll back up Several pages to see, Very Frustrating and time consuming... I haven't seen the 4000 pg manual yet, Most likely the same one, The version I have also includes the Owners manual, and several other documents that came with the vehicle... It it Very comprehensive, but poorly organized, which make it very difficult to find anything, I will look for the 4000 pg. manual you are talking about, maybe it is better organized... Thank you
 

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Yes the text find is the only way I have been able to find anything so far,... But this manual covers the Diesel, the 4.2L, the 4.4L and a few other models, so your not always sure which vehicle your looking at when you find something unless you scroll back up Several pages to see, Very Frustrating and time consuming... I haven't seen the 4000 pg manual yet, Most likely the same one, The version I have also includes the Owners manual, and several other documents that came with the vehicle... It it Very comprehensive, but poorly organized, which make it very difficult to find anything, I will look for the 4000 pg. manual you are talking about, maybe it is better organized... Thank you


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