[Rovercharged]

You can get to all of them (except one) and remove them. You will need to undo cooling Y-pipe from the engine block 2 torx bolts then pull it up, twist it, lean it forward etc...to get the lower two bolts to loosen/remove them. The top right bolt (as you look at engine from the front) you will have to loosen out as far as you can then cut it off with a dremel tool. You'll have the shave some material off of the driver's side intake/cover (you'll notice where this needs to be done when you loosen this 10mm bolt in the first place) Then replace bolt with a hex-head bolt to have room to put this whole snout assembly back on. If you don't want to do all this you can loosen the supercharger from the intake manifold (after you remove the 27 torx bolts for just the cover of the supercharger) then lift the bottom portion up - to remove another 10mm bolt that's on the side of this driver intake. Then this right bolt doesn't need to be cut or replaced. Easy a Pie!

 

[Rovercharged]

Here are some pictures if needed. The four bolts shown (Intake) are in reference to the driver's side that you'll need to remove - but easier to show where they are located in the picture from the pass-side. Sorry for the extensive use of Paint to help edit these pictures (right click on picture - view image - to enlarge)

What you can do after this bolt is switched out without removing the supercharger

 

[callipygian]

Where did you find the instructions to replace the snout? I cant seem to find any.

I changed the supercharger coupler today and all is well. No more clattering noise. The following link shows the play in the shaft.

https://youtu.be/gtAiLHVNNGs

Not the easiest Range Rover job I have done and definitely not for the fainthearted. The official manual is very vague and one has to interpolate the instructions plus there are two electrical multi plugs that connect to the Symposer and Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor which are both located on the rear of the supercharger unit. Impossible to remove until the whole unit has been unbolted and then lifted and pulled forward. The supercharger weighs a fair amount and I had one helper when removing it which helped a little but was still a mission. Then I engaged brain and used my engine crane for the refitting which made life very much easier.

View attachment 219138

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I had planned to change the oil while I had the unit out of the car but my order from the USA had not arrived. Lucky I had a coupler on the shelf waiting for another job. The coupler I removed was still in one piece but very worn and had a lot of play as can be seen from the YouTube link. I can confirm that trying to change the oil with the supercharger in place would be next to impossible.

 

[RRSSfosho]

Any update? I just received my 2011 L322 SC with 66k miles and it's doing the same thing except it only does it some times. Need to know if I should send it back to the dealer or ask for a refund. I asked them specifically if it has this knock and they said no...

Here's the video

Did you ever find a solution to this? Seems like a ton of users have the same sound/issue coming from the engine bay. Cheers!

 

[jaceiondale]

The engine rattle and timing issue posts are just recently increasing with the Jag engines.

 

[sanjaisankar70]

Hi guys, I own a 2010 Range Rover sport supercharged and i feel my engine noise has a different "tick" than the superchager noise I've been listening to. Here is a video clip of what my engine sounds like



I also notice when I am not moving at a red light in any gear, my car vibrates a lot. I brought it to a mechanic and he said most likely the engine mounts would need to be changed, however the car only has 110,000km on it and was told that the mounts usually don't fail this early

He'llo , Range Rover Sport 2010 Supercharged User here, I have been experiencing this same issue earlier too, and I thing in my side the problem is with the belts, or the supercharger or the Engine Mount ( As u said ) when I took it to a mechanic in Dubai, he quoted " The sound is coming from the Engine and the problem is High I think" So I'm a bit flurstrated right now, And as u said the vibrates on signals too and when I acllerate fast, It vibrates a bit and comes back to the normal Vibration (Little),I but have hope all of us get a good resolve of this Problem.
Thanks 🙏

 

[sanjaisankar70]

Did you ever find a solution to this? Seems like a ton of users have the same sound/issue coming from the engine bay. Cheers!

Hello User, I have been experiencing the same issue (TICK TICK SOUND) from my Ballet, For me I think there is 3 chances, 1) It will be the Timer Belt Issue
2) Engine Mount. 3) Supercharger ( If your car is supercharged V8)
Keep in mind that not all mechanics will say the truth, even if it is slightly overpriced in actual Land Rover Garage you Better go there or the mistakes the roadside garages do will cost you more than a Fortune.
Thx

 

[sanjaisankar70]

Hello, did you ever change the supercharger coupling? If so did you have to remover supercharger? Thanks, I’m changing the coupler now but almost impossible to get to 2 bolts.

If yours is V8 supercharger, You have to look at the timing belts if they are worn out or not, and if Ur speedometer Display shows a warning "Engine Prohibited Problem" It's advisable to take it to a mechanic or Not use it for long or speed drive,
Thx

 

[sanjaisankar70]

Repairs above completed as well as replaced electric fan due to "clicking" noise. The vehicle sounds normal again without the loud "rattling" noise. I'm not sure whether the chain tensioners or the snout took care of the issue.

May I know what are the parts you Replaced with?

 

[sanjaisankar70]

Hey DUC1098

I have a 2010 RRS SC with a similar sound to what you have in your video...the car runs fine but when I took it in to the dealership to have a small repair done they acted like my car was going to explode and gave me a preliminary quote of $10-14K to have the timing belt and supercharger snouts replaces (or something like that). After a full diagnoses they said it would cost ~$7500.

I've got 105,000 on the car right now, what happens if I don't address the clicking problem? And did you have your work done at a dealership or indy shop? Is the sound gone after the work?

Thx

Hello User, For me I think The dealership is telling the truth, But to be honest, It's not safe to drive with that issue As the engine won't blast, but there is chances the engine will brake down (FIRE UP) and then eventually DIE, Which you know is a HUGE problem which cost about 10,000 - 20,000 AED = 4-5 Lakhs,
And I don't advice you to go to any "indy" shop as they will DESTROY your car as how they did to my 2009 Altima, It was a simple A/C Heating Issue, They made it worse until I had to sell it as I paid more than 7k just for it, I think you should go for the dealership but Request you to bargain, As that's the price of Ur car' s engine...

PEACE ✌

 

[sanjaisankar70]

Hahaha after seeing your pictures, I'm definitely not doing the pulley myself. But thanks for the videos, I'm sure my noise is coming from there

Hello User, I have been experiencing the same issue (TICK TICK SOUND) from my Ballet, For me I think there is 3 chances, 1) It will be the Timer Belt Issue
2) Engine Mount. 3) Supercharger ( If your car is supercharged V8)
Keep in mind that not all mechanics will say the truth, even if it is slightly overpriced in actual Land Rover Garage you Better go there or the mistakes the roadside garages do will cost you more than a Fortune.
Thx