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No. You use a 3/8 drive ratchet or similar in the square hole to lever this tensioner which will loosen the belt and allow removal. I would make sure the belt wont be able to flap around before starting the engine and wouldn't run the engine for too long as the belt will be stationary while the crankshaft pulley is spinning.
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Thanks ghur. Took the belt off to be safe. Turns out most of the noise was from the supercharger. Did you ever fix yours? There's a guy on ebay selling new snouts(link below) for about $250 after core charge. Is it an easy job to replace it? or would the supercharger have to come out?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122328794465
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks ghur. Took the belt off to be safe. Turns out most of the noise was from the supercharger. Did you ever fix yours? There's a guy on ebay selling new snouts(link below) for about $250 after core charge. Is it an easy job to replace it? or would the supercharger have to come out?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122328794465
I am still waiting for my replacement coupler to arrive. Postage is slow from USA to South Africa. I expect to receive it in a couple of weeks and will then tackle the job.

I opted to go for the coupler only as it is a lot cheaper than replacing the whole snout. I hope I made the right choice. My understanding is the whole supercharger has to come out but will obviously look at doing it in situ if possible.
 

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I had a similar "tick" on my 2010 RRS supercharged. It is the impeller part in the supercharger. The dealer would not fix it as it is "not broken yet". I think it is a spring. If you still have the problem and want more info I can go look up my service record on it. There was a guy on Ebay selling a better part to fix the problem but it involves taking the supercharger apart. Looked it up. Impeller isolator spring.
 

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Hi guys, I own a 2010 Range Rover sport supercharged and i feel my engine noise has a different "tick" than the superchager noise I've been listening to. Here is a video clip of what my engine sounds like

https://vimeo.com/203946569

I also notice when I am not moving at a red light in any gear, my car vibrates a lot. I brought it to a mechanic and he said most likely the engine mounts would need to be changed, however the car only has 110,000km on it and was told that the mounts usually don't fail this early
 

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LiangA - my 2010 with 86K miles sounds EXACTLY the same as your video on vimeo above. Exactly. Mine had the timing chain tensioners and the supercharger nosecone / pulley thing replaced about 10K miles ago, so it's not that.


Hi guys, I own a 2010 Range Rover sport supercharged and i feel my engine noise has a different "tick" than the superchager noise I've been listening to. Here is a video clip of what my engine sounds like

https://vimeo.com/203946569

I also notice when I am not moving at a red light in any gear, my car vibrates a lot. I brought it to a mechanic and he said most likely the engine mounts would need to be changed, however the car only has 110,000km on it and was told that the mounts usually don't fail this early
 

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Just an update on mine, changing the supercharger snout didn't fix it. Apparently the timing chain tensioner noise is inconsistent so when I ran the car without the SC belt it happened to be in it's quit mode... taking it in to pull the engine out. Can't stand the tractor sound.
 

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LiangA - my 2010 with 86K miles sounds EXACTLY the same as your video on vimeo above. Exactly. Mine had the timing chain tensioners and the supercharger nosecone / pulley thing replaced about 10K miles ago, so it's not that.


Hi guys, I own a 2010 Range Rover sport supercharged and i feel my engine noise has a different "tick" than the superchager noise I've been listening to. Here is a video clip of what my engine sounds like

https://vimeo.com/203946569

I also notice when I am not moving at a red light in any gear, my car vibrates a lot. I brought it to a mechanic and he said most likely the engine mounts would need to be changed, however the car only has 110,000km on it and was told that the mounts usually don't fail this early
Thanks for the reply Nash! I was starting to worry that those components were the ones creating the noise but I guess I can cross that off the list! I'm going to get the throttle body and injectors cleaned and see how that goes
 

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Just an update on mine, changing the supercharger snout didn't fix it. Apparently the timing chain tensioner noise is inconsistent so when I ran the car without the SC belt it happened to be in it's quit mode... taking it in to pull the engine out. Can't stand the tractor sound.
Keep us updated on your progress! If all goes well I may consider as well. However I feel with the bill that I'll be receiving after, It would cover a big chunk towards the newer model Range Rover sport
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I changed the supercharger coupler today and all is well. No more clattering noise. The following link shows the play in the shaft.

https://youtu.be/gtAiLHVNNGs

Not the easiest Range Rover job I have done and definitely not for the fainthearted. The official manual is very vague and one has to interpolate the instructions plus there are two electrical multi plugs that connect to the Symposer and Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor which are both located on the rear of the supercharger unit. Impossible to remove until the whole unit has been unbolted and then lifted and pulled forward. The supercharger weighs a fair amount and I had one helper when removing it which helped a little but was still a mission. Then I engaged brain and used my engine crane for the refitting which made life very much easier.

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I had planned to change the oil while I had the unit out of the car but my order from the USA had not arrived. Lucky I had a coupler on the shelf waiting for another job. The coupler I removed was still in one piece but very worn and had a lot of play as can be seen from the YouTube link. I can confirm that trying to change the oil with the supercharger in place would be next to impossible.
 

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Any update? I just received my 2011 L322 SC with 66k miles and it's doing the same thing except it only does it some times. Need to know if I should send it back to the dealer or ask for a refund. I asked them specifically if it has this knock and they said no...

Here's the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxAuWXpg1_4
This is exactly what my 2010 RRS SC sounds like upon warm/hot restart. So when I head out and shut off the car,, when I return and the engine is still warm/hot, my engine sounds just like this. Going to have the timing chain, tensioners, and guides redone on it.

Can anyone who has had this done chime in and tell me what their experience was? Does this job really make these already noisy engines much quieter?
 

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I changed the supercharger coupler today and all is well. No more clattering noise. The following link shows the play in the shaft.

https://youtu.be/gtAiLHVNNGs

Not the easiest Range Rover job I have done and definitely not for the fainthearted. The official manual is very vague and one has to interpolate the instructions plus there are two electrical multi plugs that connect to the Symposer and Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor which are both located on the rear of the supercharger unit. Impossible to remove until the whole unit has been unbolted and then lifted and pulled forward. The supercharger weighs a fair amount and I had one helper when removing it which helped a little but was still a mission. Then I engaged brain and used my engine crane for the refitting which made life very much easier.

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[iurl="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219146&d=1488482414"]
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[iurl="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219153&d=1488482444"]
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I had planned to change the oil while I had the unit out of the car but my order from the USA had not arrived. Lucky I had a coupler on the shelf waiting for another job. The coupler I removed was still in one piece but very worn and had a lot of play as can be seen from the YouTube link. I can confirm that trying to change the oil with the supercharger in place would be next to impossible.
Ahahah I was going to attempt the supercharger pulley as I feel that my noise was coming from there but based on these pictures I guess I'm going to have to send it out. But, after listening to your video, I am more sure it's coming from the pulley so thanks for sharing!
 

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I changed the supercharger coupler today and all is well. No more clattering noise. The following link shows the play in the shaft.

https://youtu.be/gtAiLHVNNGs

Not the easiest Range Rover job I have done and definitely not for the fainthearted. The official manual is very vague and one has to interpolate the instructions plus there are two electrical multi plugs that connect to the Symposer and Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor which are both located on the rear of the supercharger unit. Impossible to remove until the whole unit has been unbolted and then lifted and pulled forward. The supercharger weighs a fair amount and I had one helper when removing it which helped a little but was still a mission. Then I engaged brain and used my engine crane for the refitting which made life very much easier.

[iurl="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219138&d=1488482373"]
[/iurl]

[iurl="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219146&d=1488482414"]
[/iurl]

[iurl="http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=219153&d=1488482444"]
[/iurl]

I had planned to change the oil while I had the unit out of the car but my order from the USA had not arrived. Lucky I had a coupler on the shelf waiting for another job. The coupler I removed was still in one piece but very worn and had a lot of play as can be seen from the YouTube link. I can confirm that trying to change the oil with the supercharger in place would be next to impossible.
Hahaha after seeing your pictures, I'm definitely not doing the pulley myself. But thanks for the videos, I'm sure my noise is coming from there
 

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DUC1098 did you figure out the cause of the sound? My 2010 S/C is making the exact same noise
It's quieter but I can still hear a rattle sometimes. Spent about $6500. I might charge it back to my credit card because the mechanic told me that the clunking sound you hear when you turn the car off is one of the causes but it's still doing the same thing when I turn it off. On top of all that my AC stopped blowing cold after I got the car back so leads me to believe they punctured something when they were working on it. Car only has 68k miles..
6500 work.jpg
 

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Hey DUC1098

I have a 2010 RRS SC with a similar sound to what you have in your video...the car runs fine but when I took it in to the dealership to have a small repair done they acted like my car was going to explode and gave me a preliminary quote of $10-14K to have the timing belt and supercharger snouts replaces (or something like that). After a full diagnoses they said it would cost ~$7500.

I've got 105,000 on the car right now, what happens if I don't address the clicking problem? And did you have your work done at a dealership or indy shop? Is the sound gone after the work?

Thx
 

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I have a 2011 RRSportSC with 118,000 miles. I have a CNA extended warranty. My vehicle VIN falls within range of those with potentially bad timing chain tensioners. CNA has just approved repairs to replace chain tensioners and guides as well as supercharger snout. Approximate cost is $5400.
 

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I have a 2011 RRSportSC with 118,000 miles. I have a CNA extended warranty. My vehicle VIN falls within range of those with potentially bad timing chain tensioners. CNA has just approved repairs to replace chain tensioners and guides as well as supercharger snout. Approximate cost is $5400.
Repairs above completed as well as replaced electric fan due to "clicking" noise. The vehicle sounds normal again without the loud "rattling" noise. I'm not sure whether the chain tensioners or the snout took care of the issue.
 

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Hello, did you ever change the supercharger coupling? If so did you have to remover supercharger? Thanks, I’m changing the coupler now but almost impossible to get to 2 bolts.
 
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