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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Thanks Dijit.

Like yourself, I haven’t seen any particular mechanical/hydraulic issues with the 6HP26 being raised on any of the forums so it would appear to be an extremely durable transmission. It would be easy to say “still too early to tell” but the fact that the transmission has been around since 2001 means that there must be plenty of high mileage ones around and I think we’d know by now if there were any major issues. The only recurring niggles seem to be the 2-1 rollout shift clunks (which can usually be sorted by changing the fluid and reflashing the ECU software) and the ‘dropping into neutral when accelerating or cornering hard’ problem due to the cable clamp bolt corroding at the transmission selector shaft lever.

Let’s put it this way. If anyone was thinking of setting up in the ZF 6HP26 repair trade – I think business might be a bit quiet!

The seller of this particular unit, which I bought off eBay, stated that the transmission was ‘working fine when removed’ (though why anyone would wake up in the morning thinking “Hmm, my transmission’s working well at the moment – I think I’ll remove it and sell it on eBay for £50” I’m not sure) so I’m not necessarily going to find anything wrong with it as I work towards completing the teardown.

Phil
 
Sent you a PM Phil regards a ZF4HP24 mate.

Martin
 
RRPhil and Dijit,

I really appreciate your contributions and severely hope I don't need a transmission rebuild any time soon.

I did read Dijit's excellent results from a hot flush of the transmission cooler. I've only got 50k miles on the clock, 2008 4.2 Supercharged, but I am experiencing occasional hard shifts, particularly when cold, between 1 and 2, up and down. I've already decided on doing a transmission flush at the next service, and I am wondering if I should go for the full hot flush?

Anyone have a recommendation for a hot flush in Northern Virginia?
 
ctp, thanks for your kind words but I obviously didn't make myself clear. The hot flush method flushes everything not just the oil cooler and includes a filter change. It's the only way of getting about 95%+ of the oil changed as draining and refilling barely affects 50% so the new oil ends up half contaminated with the old. The difference is dramatic as everyone who has been in the car since will testify. I'm about to change the car and I know prospective buyers who go for a testdrive are going to have their benchmark expectations rewritten! It is done with a special machine so be clear this is a proprietary process. As I'm in Glasgow, Scotland I can't help with NV.
 
Dijit, You made yourself clear, I failed to clarify my remarks.

Several places offer a transmission "flush", including the dealer, but I strongly doubt these are "hot flushes". After I read your previous threads and comments I followed the links and did my own research. The hot flush machines I saw demonstrated use a rapid back and forth cycle to dislodge deposits, particularly in the cooler. Is my understanding correct?

The local dealer (Chantilly) is very hungry for service work and will price match. My debate is between going with a dealer "flush" or hunting down an independent with a hot flush machine for a 2008 truck that will cross 50K miles in the next few days.

Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and providing your opinion.
 
ctp, let me put it this way, if it cost $1 for the flush and $250 for the hot flush, I'd spend the $250. It works, simple as that. Look for a local ZF agent with a hot flush machine. Otherwise I fear it's you that'll end up with the hot flush!:naughty:
 
To RRPhil, and everyone else on the Internet who takes such time and pride in work like this teardown, thank you. While I am not a RR owner, I am a Jaguar owner, so I suppose that may make us kinfolk in a way. In the interest of sharing this excellent work, I posted a link to this teardown topic on jaguarforums.com, and thought I would stop by and give thanks and attribute excellent work!
 
I thought I'd just post to say, thanks, and.. guess what? The sump bolts on my BMW 545i's plastic pan are all T27, and I had to use a cut-off saw to cut slots into four of them, because the kind soul that I bought the 'box off had rounded them off!! (He'd also not fitted the mechatronic sleeve properly so the connector wasn't mating properly). The gearbox was described as "just been repaired at a cost of £2,000" :s
 
RRPhil what a fantastic thread!! I'm looking to undertake a rebuild on my 2004 535D which has this box as it feels pretty tired.

Is there any chance you could publish the dimensions of that spring tool you made? as it would be handy to be able to make this up in advance of stripping the box down.

Also in addition to the torque convertor, fibre clutch rings, seals and gaskets, sump and filter and valvebody solenoids are there any other parts you would recommend replacing as part of an overhaul?

Cheers

Matt
 
Rrphil, awesome thread, I'd really like to try to do a rebuild myself on one of these. Can anyone answer this question, are the 6hp26's out of other make cars interchangeable with ours? It appears to me the bell housing is a nonremovable part of the casing, are the casings different from motor to motor? The lr3 attaches this trans to a ford v6, and bmw attaches it to several different motors. In order to lesson down time, I'd like to pick up a spare to rebuild, would I run into problems buying a bmw or similar transmission?
 
Nothing wrong with wanting to learn more.

There’s going to come a time when a broke dude is gonna have a broke Rover and will have literally nothing to lose by trying to look at things himself. Your guide will give him at least a sense of direction, and hopefully the confidence to make a positive change before he gets it back in the vehicle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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So that’s it for the underside, next our attention turns to the front of the transmission.

The oil pump and stator support assembly is retained by 13 Torx T27 screws

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and each of the (identical) screws is fitted with a washer with a rubber insert to prevent leaks

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The assembly can then be drawn out from the casing

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Do you have to remove the park lock mechanism in order to pull out all of the components? I made it to snap ring and first clutch pack. But I can’t get the next thing out. I haven’t removed the park lock mechanism yet so I’m thinking that’s causing the issue?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Can I just check that you’ve definitely removed the four jump tubes from below the Mechatronic unit?

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These seal against spot faces machined into the C-brake drum.

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The tubes will prevent the drum from sliding out of the casing if they aren’t removed first.

Phil
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Have you removed the large circlip with tapered sides which holds the C-brake drum in the casing?

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(Note the notches in the ends of the clip for circlip pliers – this is not the snap ring that retains the clutch pack in the drum)

Phil
 
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