Most excellent. Wish you lived in NY, NY. You are an amazing wealth of information and I am sure others will agree you deserve much thanks for sharing.

 

Wow thats awesome man. Great information as always.

 

good stuff Phill, thank you very much for that, with the amount of trans probs that show up on here and your awesome right ups, any chance you are going to put together some step by step rebuild videos together?

 

Wow great post. I don't have 1/100th the skill or knowledge to do what you did but it's interesting to read about it. I'll stick to eye surgery.

 

Bold, brave and beautiful!

 

Great post.
How about clutch pads?

 

Stunned by how these things were invented in the first place!

Your a very clever man RRPhil :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

 

Excellent, precise and professional write up as usual from you Phil. Your knowledge is unriveled in this field.
Stewart.

 

Wow great post. I don't have 1/100th the skill or knowledge to do what you did but it's interesting to read about it. I'll stick to eye surgery.

:lol:
I was thinking the same thing, although I'd be sticking to the simpler task of Trauma Surgery. :wink:

 

Thank you so much for such wealth of knowledge, and for sharing that amount of info. It's priceless.

Thanks again
Robert

 

Phil, in addition to your mechanical ability, I am truly amazed at your organizational skills to lay the process out in pics and narrative for us all...truly impressive!!

Now if you have time for a quick question...do you think there is anything that can be done to these to save the o-ring from failing as a preventative measure, or is it just a "wait till it fails" part?

Thanks again...John

 

This is real helpful thread long story short my box has packed in so im going to rebuild it would like to know where to get the rebuild kit and torque converter at thanks

 

I would recommend that you get the seal/gasket kit, and your torque converter re-manufactured, at an authorised ZF car parts centre. I don’t think there are any in N. Ireland but there are seven in GB :

http://www.zf.com/eu/content/en/gre..._uk/service_overview_uk/service_network_uk/service_cars_uk/service_cars_uk.html

I personally use JPAT, but I’m sure that they’re all okay. Clearly you might want to wait until you have your transmission apart before ordering anything as you don’t yet know what additional parts you might need.

Phil

 

So just how difficult is this transmission to disassemble and re-assemble? I'm having some troubles with mine (in fact I think you responded to my post the other day on transmission vs. transfer case questions).

I've recently rebuilt a GM 4l60e with my brother-in-law and was curious if the ZF requires much in the way of special tools and such.

 

I find the ZF transmissions much easier to rebuild than GM ones – principally because the ZF clutch piston seals are simple O-rings which allow the pistons to be installed into their drums without the use of any special tools to compress/protect them from damage. As long as you have some Torx drivers (T27, T30 & T40) in your toolkit then the only ‘special’ tools you need are something :

a) to extract the two jump tubes that feed the C & D clutches :

b) to compress the clutch springs

You also need a standard dti to check the front and rear endfloat:

I’m never quite sure whether I’m doing the right thing encouraging people to strip down their transmissions. Sure, they’re very easy to rebuild, and having done dozens of these I know immediately when something’s not right but there’s a risk that an individual stripping a transmission for the first time - unless the fault is obvious like a failed seal or damaged bearing - will end up with a completely disassembled transmission sat on their workbench and no clue whatsoever as to what to do next (though I’m not saying that applies in your case if you already have some experience of rebuilding automatic transmissions).

Phil

 

I’m never quite sure whether I’m doing the right thing encouraging people to strip down their transmissions.

I for one have no intention of ever rebuilding my own transmission when it has issues, but the information you've provided will still be invaluable because I'll be able to know what I'm talking about when I take it to a shop. I love reading all your posts and I've learned a lot, but I still know what I don't know and I think most people are the same way. I think you are doing us all a great service.

 

I have a 2005 RR with the ZF 5HP24. It reves up from a dead stop after it warms up. Cluncks going into second. The manual shift doesnt seem t work either... You can nurse it off the line and keep it from clunking and it performs great in the rest of the gears.... I am fluent in everything under thehood but have no trans experience... Coulld you lend some guiedance or a starting point for diagnosis please?
Thanks
Richard rgrimes@realtysouth.com

 

My 2003 4.4 is misbehaving at the moment too....I have done plenty of reading and research on the 5HP24 - and RRPhil is the ultimate guru on these boxes....

This link is to an epic thread, makes good reading and no doubt you will pick up some pointers.... http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...-rover-mark-iii-l322/30020-2002-4-4-v8-transmission-problems-failsafe-mode.html

 

phill i have the gear box all stripped down all seals and bearing all seem in good shape my next step is to take the clucth plates out of a,b,c,d,e but i would like to know is the oil pump in the box hard to strip because i have all the t27s out and it will not pull apart i seen it strip on here i think but cannot fined it again sorry for being a pain phill

 

If you remove the ten screws and then screw two of them back in, approximately 180 degrees apart (say the screws in positions 1 & 6 in the second photo), just by a few threads and the tap them alternately with a mallet/hammer it will drive the pump housing slowly out.

Phil

 

Phill all stripped and cleaned all seem to b in good shape looks like the tc give up phill what all would i need to order of jpat i have the tc send for recon the bearing that goes is ok no wear on it at all but maybe would need changed what u think so what do i need to order

 

The official overhaul kit (ZF 1058 298 022, JPAT N211 02 01ZF) is essential – it contains all the gaskets and seals (I’m assuming that you’re stripping the clutches down to check & replace the piston seals?)

Actually, when I say the kit contains all the seals, I’m lying. The rear output seal included in the kit is for the RWD transmissions (Jaguar & BMW) but the Range Rover uses a different lip seal that you have to buy separately. Its part number is ZF 0734 319 520, JPAT N212 15 04).

Also, there’s an O-ring on the transmission output shaft which, again, is unique to the L322 and isn’t included in the kit (ZF 0734 313 181, JPAT N208 16 15).

I always replace the three steel pipes because they have to be hammered into place and seal properly through being crushed slightly at the ends (interference fit in the holes) :

Oil Tube (E-brake feed) – ZF 1058 301 021, JPAT N211 63 01
Oil Tube (B-clutch feed) – ZF 1058 301 020, JPAT N211 63 02
Oil Tube (sprag lubrication) – ZF 1058 301 071, JPAT N211 63 03

Even though your B-clutch hub/C-clutch drum bearing looks okay I’d recommend that, for the sake of £6, you replace it anyway.

If you ended up destroying the heads of any of the twelve countersunk M8x24 screws that hold the F-brake drum into the casing they cost around £1.50 each (ZF 0736 401 071, JPAT N208 37 01).

To my horror JPAT - an official ZF spares distributor - started supplying cheap Taiwanese pattern-part filters for the 5HP24 so I now source mine from my Land Rover dealer to be sure that I get a genuine Filtran part (p/n LPW 000030).

And that’s about it really.

So there’s no wear on the three B-clutch hub pads?

No wear

Worn

Any problems, just give me a shout

Phil

 

Phill got all my parts forgot to get oil pump gasket so need to give jpat a ring again

 

Both the oil pump housing gasket and the sump gasket should be in the kit - they may be hiding underneath the piece of cardboard at the bottom of the box...

Phil

 

Phill have you any pics of stripping down valve body sounds like a bigger job than stripping the box thanks phill

 

Ahh, there can be few joys in life better than stripping down a 5HP24 valve block :

 

It goes without saying that you need to be absolutely meticulous in ensuring that the right spool goes back in the right bore with the right spring …..

Phil

 

Start again in the middle of Refurbishing a 05 plate range rover Overfinch 580s one with the bored out 4.4 BMW engine in it I have a problem with a vibration at all speeds but more noticeable at 50mph fitted a new torque converter about 6 weeks ago problem vibration nearly when but was still there any ideas am thinking in may need a rebuild on the gearbox ;( the people that fitted the torque converter landrover themselves changes the old but not the filter ? Could this be the Culprit or am a been a tad Optimistic ;0)

 

Phill am i being silly do i need to strip this down or can i get away with a good wash and blow out it defo was my tc that was gone is there another kit for building the valve body