If the forums are anything to go by, failures of the DD295 transfer case appear to be pretty rare. Output shaft spline failures on the 6HP26/28 are much more common 2012 HSE transmission slip (caused by fretting corrosion, due to lack of lubrication during assembly at the factory)

Phil

 

Diff,
I know of this problem, but getting to the bottom of it is another story.
Long boring story but bear with me.
So i bought a cheap 08 plater rr vogue 3.6 v8 with issues !!!
Almost fixed everything when one day driving along, after driving all day i was slowing down approaching a roundabout the rev counter went up, a slight scratching metal to metal sound and i had no drive,, no gears at all , no warning on dash so i pulled over. Tried going through the gears and eventually found a gear and drove fine till i got home approx 6-7 miles.
I found another car the same for sale and selling with the same problem, so got in touch with him and he told me that its the rear differential and possibly the rear driveshafts also.
So i ordered second hand drive shaft (one) as the there was a lot of play on one and not the other and a second hand diff.
All removed and fitted, out the garage ran fine for 3 days then heading home after running for about 400 miles that weekend, same problem at 7.00 pm on a sunday.
This week (tomorrow) im away to change the diff again and the other rear driveshaft.
The other guy says his car is running fine with what he changed.
Today i passed a Land Rover garage and went to speak to the owner, he said that the best way would be to get under the car whilst the problem is happening and look to see whats turning and whats not.
So i need another person with me to put it in drive with the foot brake on and in drive to see what turns and what is not turning.
I know its a long drawn out story but thats where im at with this bloody RR !!!!!!

 

Thx for your reply. Very interesting that you found a gear that worked. That makes no sense but see below. Mark mentioned on another post that the front axle could pop out of the diff causing this issue (after a strut re and re) and Phil suggested (thanks so much Phil) that a transfer case issue is rare on our year. Would appreciate knowing if a 1/16 to 1/24 turn slack between front and rear prop shaft is normal when you grab them and turn them with trans in neutral (engine off) iirc. It seems like a lot to me which is the thing that makes me feel that there is something wrong beyond the axle popping out of the diff . Unless the internal clutch pack has somehow released completely which does not seem to be a default position. Mark had the issue after Re and Re on a strut which I just also did maybe 50 kms earlier. I was thinking the same thing about crawling under but I was not keen on the idea to have my wife help me and I did not have blocks handy where the failure occurred and it was dark. Now I am second guessing the shops analysis. Wondering if the rear end has a similar potential ability to fail but have not seen that anywhere. Really thinking your front axle may have slipped into place, say by turning the steering wheel that the axle reingaged but without the circlip locking it in and then of course popping out again during a turn. There is a post near this one where Mark comments and it is very useful to read. To coincidental to find another with the same issue. I just found an 06 sc for 1700 cdn. but spouse would go hairy if I got it for parts so stuck and not really looking to pull the parts and switch over if necessary as I must finish building our house.
Mark, if you read this how do you tap the axle back in? Release the inner boot and pull back to expose a flange that could be tapped in using a block of wood and hammer once the axle was rotated a bit to align the splines with the grooves in the differential?

 

Another question on this issue. Is there enough clearance in the axle be removeable by separating the strut from the hub assembly without removing the lower control arms and tie rod ends and pushing it out. Any easy tool to push axle out of hub without beating on the end of the axle? And on the 2010 plus is it the constant loading and unloading of the spline connection that causes the splines to shear away in the trans to transfer case connection?

 

The monkey that changed my front struts managed to slightly pull out one of the drive shafts from the front diff, had exactly the same result as your having. Get underneath it and you should be able to see if its the case.
Make sure the garage isn't pulling your pants down....

Good luck

 

Ok found an older post on the issue on how to reset the axle so will advise when at the garage. Thanks again Mark.

 

Ok. Finally picked up our range after too many days driving a jetta. Turned out to be a broken drivers side cv joint. Could it have happened because I changed the air spring on that side a couple of days earlier? i do not think so but a coincidence. So in the end the trans. case and front diff were ok. I just wish i had brought my jack and lifted the beast where it failed one corner at a time and i would have found the issue instead of 3 weeks later. Will keep the used front diff and trans case in reserve. Appreciate all contributions/insights to this thread.

 

Yep, the disconnection of your front left half shaft from the differential most likely happened as an unintended side effect of replacing the front left air strut. Happened to myself and others.

To avoid this problem: While replacing a front air strut, and before unbolting the two 22mm bolts from the strut, I suspect that we need to place a jack under the wheel hub, as described in the L322 workshop manual for air strut replacement (but not mentioned in the relevant Arnott air strut replacement instructions). In addition, depressurizing the air suspension system (or just the relevant air strut, if you have something like IIDTool), as described in the workshop manual.

 

A broken cv joint is different to a displaced drive shaft.

Just saying