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After 6 L322s and 2 5.0 SC catastrophic failures (yes chains were done on both vehicles) Im done with the 5.0s. Not here to debate which is better just my experience. View attachment 310207
Have a 2019 TD6 inbound and curious what the highest mileage folks have seen in them.
My TD6 (2017 LR Discovery) just rolled over 136,00 miles with zero serious issues.
 
Only 66k on my 2017 TD6…has been perfect so far. I hope to get 200k out of it like I did on my first RRS….love the diesel!
I took 2017 TD6 to 132,000 miles with zero issues.
But then I have an issue with the DPF. I could either allow the dealership to replace the exhaust (dpf, cat) for about $8K, or remove the offending parts, and have VELOCITY AP retune.

I chose the latter at a cost of $2700. The car now has 136,000 miles and running strong. I plan to drive it another 100,000 miles.
 
2016 td6 with 102k on it. Knock on wood, this has been a very reliable vehicle for me in all respects. Had a bad fuel injector replaced in the first 10k miles, but no issue whatsoever after that. I've owned it since new.
I agree. My 2017 TD6 has been a great engine. Great MPG and runs strong. Just rolled over 136,000 miles. Go ROVER! 😇
 
I'm at 92K miles now on the 2017 TD6 - running impecabbly. I did get the famous : "No start in 250 miles" message a few months back. I had the DEF nozzle replaced, it was completely gunked up...and I also upgraded my GAP IID tool to Generation 4, so I can manage more DPF related activities besides only the Regen, which also includes resetting this error message if needed...although I've been lucky enough not to have to do it as the shop I had replace the nozzle also had the software to do the sequence of resetting the DPF and the couple of steps needed to reinitiate it all.

I've gone now about 8K miles since the dreaded 250 mile message and zero problems with the DPF. I've done 3 long trips of 3500 miles each this year also towing a motorcycle trailer/bike in 2 of those trips and a fair amount of offroad adventures in Colorado as well, and I take advantage of those long trips also to do a DPF regen, which sometimes reaches 12 to 13 and after about 10 miles is back down to 1 or less.

I've seen the process of removing the whole DPF system which is a great long term solution, but I'm not keen to do that yet unless absolutely necessary. The dealership will for sure want you to replace all kinds of parts at a very expensive price point as they just "guess" what to replace.

My cost: nozzle cost at Land Rover club pricing from my local dealer and 1 hour of labor from my local mechanic to replace the nozzle plus 1 hour of re-programming charge...problem solved for about $550 in total parts and labor!

On a separate issue, I did also just do preventative maintenance of replacing all fluids in both front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission, and just a couple of weeks ago I needed to put in a new air compressor for the suspension...not an uncommon occurrence...I had to replace these also on my prior 2 RRS's around 90K as well.
 
I'm at 92K miles now on the 2017 TD6 - running impecabbly. I did get the famous : "No start in 250 miles" message a few months back. I had the DEF nozzle replaced, it was completely gunked up...and I also upgraded my GAP IID tool to Generation 4, so I can manage more DPF related activities besides only the Regen, which also includes resetting this error message if needed...although I've been lucky enough not to have to do it as the shop I had replace the nozzle also had the software to do the sequence of resetting the DPF and the couple of steps needed to reinitiate it all.

I've gone now about 8K miles since the dreaded 250 mile message and zero problems with the DPF. I've done 3 long trips of 3500 miles each this year also towing a motorcycle trailer/bike in 2 of those trips and a fair amount of offroad adventures in Colorado as well, and I take advantage of those long trips also to do a DPF regen, which sometimes reaches 12 to 13 and after about 10 miles is back down to 1 or less.

I've seen the process of removing the whole DPF system which is a great long term solution, but I'm not keen to do that yet unless absolutely necessary. The dealership will for sure want you to replace all kinds of parts at a very expensive price point as they just "guess" what to replace.

My cost: nozzle cost at Land Rover club pricing from my local dealer and 1 hour of labor from my local mechanic to replace the nozzle plus 1 hour of re-programming charge...problem solved for about $550 in total parts and labor!

On a separate issue, I did also just do preventative maintenance of replacing all fluids in both front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission, and just a couple of weeks ago I needed to put in a new air compressor for the suspension...not an uncommon occurrence...I had to replace these also on my prior 2 RRS's around 90K as well.
My TD6 has 135,000 miles. It started “limping” about 2,000 miles ago. I could cycle the key and it would go away for a couple hundred miles but got tired of that. Took it to the dealer and basically they told me it was the DPF and regen wasn’t working so they’d have to throw parts at. One mechanic told me that even if they replace the DPF and other parts not only will it be expensive it would be temporary because I’d have to do it again in 50-70,000 miles. He suggested a DPF DEF delete and retune.

Just completed the delete. It’s running great. No more limp mode. Hopefully it’ll go another 100K miles
 
I'm at 92K miles now on the 2017 TD6 - running impecabbly. I did get the famous : "No start in 250 miles" message a few months back. I had the DEF nozzle replaced, it was completely gunked up...and I also upgraded my GAP IID tool to Generation 4, so I can manage more DPF related activities besides only the Regen, which also includes resetting this error message if needed...although I've been lucky enough not to have to do it as the shop I had replace the nozzle also had the software to do the sequence of resetting the DPF and the couple of steps needed to reinitiate it all.

I've gone now about 8K miles since the dreaded 250 mile message and zero problems with the DPF. I've done 3 long trips of 3500 miles each this year also towing a motorcycle trailer/bike in 2 of those trips and a fair amount of offroad adventures in Colorado as well, and I take advantage of those long trips also to do a DPF regen, which sometimes reaches 12 to 13 and after about 10 miles is back down to 1 or less.

I've seen the process of removing the whole DPF system which is a great long term solution, but I'm not keen to do that yet unless absolutely necessary. The dealership will for sure want you to replace all kinds of parts at a very expensive price point as they just "guess" what to replace.

My cost: nozzle cost at Land Rover club pricing from my local dealer and 1 hour of labor from my local mechanic to replace the nozzle plus 1 hour of re-programming charge...problem solved for about $550 in total parts and labor!

On a separate issue, I did also just do preventative maintenance of replacing all fluids in both front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission, and just a couple of weeks ago I needed to put in a new air compressor for the suspension...not an uncommon occurrence...I had to replace these also on my prior 2 RRS's around 90K as well.
Def nozzle can be removed and cleaned when it builds up crystals. Dealer will change, but cleaning works fine. Raise suspension and crawl. Short trips and gentle driving makes this happen. Imho.
 
My TD6 has 135,000 miles. It started “limping” about 2,000 miles ago. I could cycle the key and it would go away for a couple hundred miles but got tired of that. Took it to the dealer and basically they told me it was the DPF and regen wasn’t working so they’d have to throw parts at. One mechanic told me that even if they replace the DPF and other parts not only will it be expensive it would be temporary because I’d have to do it again in 50-70,000 miles. He suggested a DPF DEF delete and retune.

Just completed the delete. It’s running great. No more limp mode. Hopefully it’ll go another 100K miles
Clogged EGR and blown up plastic Y-pipe at intake is the next thing to watch out for. The plastic doesn't like any higher boost with tune. Can also blow the combo intake/valve at seams. Good aftermarket available for both $150. Ford covers are the same. Ebay Ypipe aftermarket. Soot from EGR will pack the coolers. If you go into to DSC, dynamic suspension control, fault it or new limp mode, it is likely one or both of these. I am doing EGR delete this weekend and rerouting water hoses. You also have to delete the DPF or it may get packed with soot.
 
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