Range Rovers Forum banner
61 - 80 of 89 Posts
Sorry, I was referring to the timing belt issue. Is it a problem with the 2018+? Any other major issues with 2018? Considering buying a 2018 TD6 this week.
The timing belt in the front and fuel pump belt in the rear are due for replacement around 100K miles. I haven't really heard of problems with those breaking but the timing belt would cause engine damage if it did.
There are multiple reports of diesel crankshafts breaking in two and destroying the engine. Appears the crank bearings and the oil passeges to the bearings are a bit undersized and the passages can clog if the oil changes are infrequent. Look to see oil changes at less than 10K mile intervals and preferably 8k or less. If sludge builds up in the engine it can starve the bearings of oil leading to the crank seizing up and breaking. Service history should provide some insight.
 
Have a 2017 Td6 owned since new. I’m at 98k miles, I do my own oil changes, and have not had any engine issues at all.
Do you change the fuel filter every oil change?
For years I have been a 5,000mile guy. When it was recommended to change oil every 3k - I was at 5k.
Now that it is recommended every billion miles - I am still at 5k...
Easy to keep track of - 215K, 220K, etc. 225K is next on the L322.
My 2016 TD6 was bought at 97K - I'm 1,500 miles from my 1st Oil Change. I will probably do that one myself. I will change the fuel filter just because - but do I do it every 5K from now on?
 
No, more like every two years/32,000 miles for the fuel filter.

Since I’m in Europe now working in km I do my oil changes at 15,000km/9300miles. Like you, 15,000 is easy for me to track and everything (minus the fuel filter) is pretty much due at that point. I just got oil analysis back from Blackstone Labs on the JLR recommended Castrol Edge Professional 5w30 ACEA C1 I used for the last run and the TBN was a bit surprising seeing how they say you can run that oil in that engine for 24,000km. Now I’m running Ravenol FLJ 5w30 ACEA C1 in it. Mine’s a 2011 3.0 TDV6 with 132,000 miles on it.
 
No, more like every two years/32,000 miles for the fuel filter.

Since I’m in Europe now working in km I do my oil changes at 15,000km/9300miles. Like you, 15,000 is easy for me to track and everything (minus the fuel filter) is pretty much due at that point. I just got oil analysis back from Blackstone Labs on the JLR recommended Castrol Edge Professional 5w30 ACEA C1 I used for the last run and the TBN was a bit surprising seeing how they say you can run that oil in that engine for 24,000km. Now I’m running Ravenol FLJ 5w30 ACEA C1 in it. Mine’s a 2011 3.0 TDV6 with 132,000 miles on it.
I might cut that in half and go every 15,000miles or 1 year(whichever comes first) - 15K is about 2 years of driving for me. It will be on the same schedule as the Air Filter/Cabin Air Filter I work from home so I will drive 200 miles one month and then 400 miles to/from a client in 3 or 4 days. Average about 8K/year.
Coming from the 4.4 JagV8 NA in my L322 8+ quarts - these changes will be less (6ish quarts). I use full synthetic and whatever is on sale at AutoZone. Lately I have been getting it done out - by the time I get the Oil/Filter and deal with the waste - it is worth the $100 to have someone do it - plus it gets posted to Car Fax. My 2006 Car Fax is currently 17 pages long...
The DPF regen and all that mess scares me - would rather swap out the fuel filter sooner to help with that.
 
Fuel filter won’t do anything for the DPF. Using the correct oil will. It needs to be 5w30 ACEA C1, which is unfortunately a pain to get.

Mine says every three years or 48,000 miles for the intake filter (only one in mine). The pollen filters I buy say every 15,000km. Both were pretty nasty this last change.

I’m running Mahle oil, cabin and fuel filters with a Hengst intake filter after watching some independent tests.
 
Purchased my 2017 TDV6 from a dealer with a little more than 30,000 miles. Came with the certified pre owned warranty. At about 53,000 miles driving from Vegas the motor had a rod knock. I take care of all my cars and stay on top of the service requirements. When it was towed back to the dealership the service manager told me there is another TDV6 with the same issue but that motor blew the bearing and it put a hole in the casting and oil blew out. They replaced the motor with a brand new one but I've read that these things have a defect with the crank and rod journals. I have 18,000 miles on the new engine but don't trust it.
How often did u do your oil changes
 
My 2016 TD6 had the engine light on and since I was at the dealer, I had it checked. I was told the engine will blow up soon. Near catastrophic blow-bys, and a whole other number of things I don't remember. I have 395,000km (247,000 miles) trouble-free. My new Range Rover (2024 PHEV) is on the way, already in Canada, so the timing was perfect.

You have such an irrational attachment to such a machine. After all, in three weeks we drove from Toronto all the way across the Arctic Circle to the Northwest Territory, which was almost 800km every day for 23 days.

Like new inside. 9.5 out of 10. Outside also great. It's not about money at all, but it's such a shame to throw away such a good car, relatively few years old, just like that.

Any idea what I should do?
 
So there we were, just a few of hundred kilometres after the above post and the engine blew up, self destructed - oil all over the place. 395,780km. That's it. A sad moment for me.
 
So there we were, just a few of hundred kilometres after the above post and the engine blew up, self destructed - oil all over the place. 395,780km. That's it. A sad moment for me.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you weren't above the artic circle travelling in no man's land and were able to get home easily enough.

You're previous message was what should you do with it. If the interior is as good as you describe, I suspect there's a RR car parts/junk yard somewhere in NA who would be interested in buying it. You wouldn't get a lot for it, as they'd have to ship it somewhere, but other options do you have? Is there any shop or junk yard there that would give you at least something for it? Heck, as seen in other posts, the Cats are worth a lot of money.

That irrational attachment is something I also have. I don't know what I'd do with the truck. I'd be tempted to put in a new engine even though that would be $10-15k (US).

Good luck and I hope your new one comes in quickly.
 
2016 td6 with 102k on it. Knock on wood, this has been a very reliable vehicle for me in all respects. Had a bad fuel injector replaced in the first 10k miles, but no issue whatsoever after that. I've owned it since new.
Any update since the post? Looking at a 2016 with similar mileage
 
I have 146k miles on mine. (I did the DEF delete and love the truck)
 
I bought mine April 2023 w/ 126k. Just rolled over 140k miles this week.

All stock, UNCUT (horray for emissions inspections)

Running Supertech DEF :geek:
 
I have 146k miles on mine. (I did the DEF delete and love the truck)
Hi, so I am new ish to this group and probably missing tons of prior posts and context, BUT I am looking for a diesel LR.
I thought I should focus on pre DEF years (Friends have tons of older diesel, LR, GMC/Chevy, etcetera and seem simple) because of the adding complication, DEF fluid and overall modernization.
I initially excluded newer models for his reason.

QUESTION: Whats the DEF delete? Can I consider newer models, and somehow get rid of the extra complication? Is this a software item like its unnecesary or is this a costly hardware swap?

UNDER CONSIDERATION: 1980 through early 2000's Defender, 1995 through 2004 Discovery (Focus on 2003/04 because I had a petrol 2003 and loved it).

NOW UNDER CONSIDERATION: 2005 and up LR3, LR4 (Diesel with DEL, if I can get rid of complication)
 
DEF, Diesel Exhaust Fluid
DPF, Diesel Particulate Filter
EGR, Exhaust Gas Reciculation

DEF was something that came into the LR world in 2016 for Euro6 emissions.
DPF depends on the market requirements. They started becoming available in 2008 I think. 2011 they were required for Euro5 emissions.
EGR I think up to 2006 you can easily blank off the EGR’s and 2007 to 2009 you need to also have them programmed out. After 2009 it’s more involved on most of the diesels, depending on market.
 
DEF, Diesel Exhaust Fluid
DPF, Diesel Particulate Filter
EGR, Exhaust Gas Reciculation

DEF was something that came into the LR world in 2016 for Euro6 emissions.
DPF depends on the market requirements. They started becoming available in 2008 I think. 2011 they were required for Euro5 emissions.
EGR I think up to 2006 you can easily blank off the EGR’s and 2007 to 2009 you need to also have them programmed out. After 2009 it’s more involved on most of the diesels, depending on market.
Thank you, thank you... this helps.
 
After 6 L322s and 2 5.0 SC catastrophic failures (yes chains were done on both vehicles) Im done with the 5.0s. Not here to debate which is better just my experience. View attachment 310207
Have a 2019 TD6 inbound and curious what the highest mileage folks have seen in them.
OK OK so my buddy sold me a excessively clean garaged and well serviced 2012 5.0 with a great sounding motor with a now tight chain; can you tell me about the 5.0 experience specifically about problems other than chains? 87 k miles
 
61 - 80 of 89 Posts