I'm not sure if it's the same relay. But my white eas relay, for the self leveling after it shuts off, was replaced with a normal relay. So it doesn't continue to try and level itself and drain the battery after the keys are removed.

 

There's been a long running thread in the P38 forum about replacing the delay relay with a standard one to stop the self levelling when parked http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...et/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/157785-disabling-eas-levelling-easy-way.html. Main problem seems to be that without the delay relay it isn't possible to connect the diagnostics so you will still need the delay relay to fit when you need to do that. As the EAS from the later Classic is identical to that on the P38, I suspect you'd have the same problem.

 

I hook up my laptop and then turn on the key to the run position. Close all the doors and it works fine.

 

With the new relay everything is fine. I just wanted to know others experience with repairing the piece. The P38 thread is very interesting and good to know for in case of emergency. I think that I'll have to pickup the mini-relay and give it a shot - Worst case? A bad relay gets worse...

 

Very interesting thread.

I just fixed a line leak on my new right-rear airbag, and wanted to disable the self-leveling to make sure the leak was solved. So, I removed the delay relay and popped-in a spare Hella I had laying around. This performed exactly as outlined in this thread, with one unexpected benefit. I had the LWB parked in EAS extended setting when I fixed the leak and replaced the delay with a standard relay. Now, when the vehicle sits overnight (or longer than quick stop/park/start cycle) on start-up it defaults to extended height rather than standard height!

All other EAS functions are as normal - access to pick-up my Mom, highway etc. - and quick stop/start cycles will default to the last used height setting. At first I thought this was due to four people in the LWB, and an open door before shutting the engine off, preventing any pre-shut-off leveling. But the next morning, extended height is lit-up on the dash.

No additional cycling of the EAS system, no leak at the right-rear, and my LWB now sits at a static height when parked for a few days!!!

 

Slight clarification on extended height...

My suspicion: because four people + gear were removed after parking, the now-unladen vehicle rose up from standard height. Next, without the delay relay and absence of self-leveling, at start-up the following morning sensor feedback simply interpreted "extended height". So no electrickery involved.

Either way I love it. No more settling while parked, the LWB sits at a more visually appealing height, and it ready for my typical short course around around our property before hitting the pavement!

 

This thread makes my heart happy!!! I am SO GLAD to see others as excited about keeping their EAS and even tweak it to suit their fancies. I have altered the the heights to my desire on my '95. The default and high settings are higher than stock and the hghway mode is an inch lower than stock. My 'Rover, MY way : )

Thanks for contributing to the community!!

 

This thread makes my heart happy!!! I am SO GLAD to see others as excited about keeping their EAS and even tweak it to suit their fancies.

You should try looking at some of the posts on the P38 forum. Anyone asking a question about coils, or for advice after they have bought a car already on coils is always to put the EAS back. Maybe they get a little less stick here as the Classic came with both so by replacing the EAS with coils you are just backdating your car to the inferior system fitted previously. Land Rover didn't start fitting EAS just for the hell of it, they started fitting it to improve the ride, handling and safety of the car. Also, a Classic that has been converted to coils gives the worst of both worlds. A Classic that originally had coils also had the Boge self levelling unit, a car on EAS self levels anyway, a car that has had the EAS removed and coils fitted in their place almost always doesn't have the Boge unit fitted as well so there's no self levelling.

 

Did anyone ever try replacing the micro relay? I am happy to keep the self levelling function as I don't see it as such a big problem like some other do....

 

I have managed to find some replacement micro relays at a sensible price, will report back when I have attempted a repair

 

Finally bothered to solder in the micro relay into one of my AMR1111's this week, need to monitor and see if the battery drain is better. Has anyone fitted a black P38 timer relay with success?

 

I've been suffering with this issue on my 1993 RR Vogue Plus for several years now and had some success with the substitute 4-pin standard relay approach. The problem with that is the 5th pin on the original AMR 1111 communicates with the EAS ECU and without that, as soon as the system experiences anything unusual it goes into fault mode and won't clear until I refit the original AMR 1111 and use EASunlock to reset the system.

I did mess around with my original AMR 1111 (after obtaining a second-hand working one to keep my RR functioning), and discovered the problem is that the miniature PCB relay(V23072) doesn't like lying on its side, which is the orientation in its standard mounting position. This because the relay armature wears over thousands of cycles and can stick in either position. The AMR 1111 assembly sits with the pins facing downwards but the PCB is fitted into the enclosure vertically with the miniature relay sitting with the pins to the side. If I remove the assembly and its mounting socket from the mounting tab on the seat base and lie it on its side the fault doesn't occur.

I've removed the V23072 relay from the PCB and replaced it with a new one I obtained from AliExpress. Bingo!