Could also be a caliper issue, I know I need to rebuild mine, as they’re over 22 yrs old. I know I also need to bleed the system. Try bleeding the system first, but definitely follow rave instructions, order is key. ISTR you start with caliper furthest from the master cylinder?


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Don't ignore possible wheel bearing issues and glazed rotors.

 

If nothing obviously mechanical is standing out you'd have to suspect air in one of the lines initially.

It should be (if it is air) one of the rhs wheels as that will reduce braking on that side, more retardation on the driver side will drag the vehicle that way.

Front wheel tends to try and twist the steering wheel toward the more powerful brake.

Rear wheel will give more a feel of the whole vehicle changing it's direction with less influence on the steering wheel for you to feel the reaction. In other words, the steering does not load up but you have to turn it to keep in line.

If you take it out for a run and use the brakes, you can check the disk or wheel temperature with a IR Thermometer across each axle, this may give you a pointer if one is much lower than the other it's most likely where you want to go look first.

Stopping the wheels when running free is relatively easy to do even with air in the line, put against the rolling weight of a moving vehicle will definitely expose any deficiency in one line.

 

I would first be looking at the front right side calliper to see if one of the pistons is seized. I had my hard and flexible brake lines changed last week and the tech told me he found heavy sludge in the old pipes. It was so bad that one of the ports on the abs module was blocked with gunge and he could not bleed the system on one side.

 

I was so slammed this weekend with pre-thanksgiving prep / leaves / boring work that I have not gotten a chance to explore further. I am going to attempt a full fluid bleed, and see what results I get. Curious myself if the right side has a jam somewhere. Should have plenty of time this week with family in town to escape and spend time working on the rover =)

 

the last classic was driven off the dealer lot in 95, its not 2017 the truck is now 22 yrs old, whether its been driven or not it's time to replace ALL calipers and soft brake lines, clean and flush the fluid out of all the other lines. rust due to moisture in the old fluid, a myriad of heat cycles have/ are taking their toll. only ofter addressing these issues would you have good performing brakes.
do it right.

 

I'd not disagree with looking after any brakes' system but wholesale swapping out of most parts is not necessarily a practical way of diagnosis for something that was working.

One of the biggest risks on these regarding age is corrosion of the steel brake lines, more so than the flexible parts for straight degradation. Also the logic of just replacing the calipers for age, well the mastercylinder and anti lock system is of the same issue. I don't think it's initially tenable to swap out a brake system over what can be a simple fault.

Measuring brake temps is a valid way at directing principal analysis, and further intervention to understand where the problem originates.

 

Well let me also say - I have a 5" lift, with all new SS brake lines installed within the last 3 years. I have a new brake pipe along the driver side 2yrs ago. And 1 new caliper that was replaced about 3yrs ago. At that time, I also did drilled slotted rotors and new genuine pads. Just this past summer, i replaced both rear ABS sensors and the front Passenger. All the lights are now off on ABS.

Goal is to - Bleed system first and foremost see if it improves if not ill consider pulling the calipers on the right side for closer inspection... I am getting info stating its likely not the master Cyl - so I will just start with the wheels and work my way in.