So my dealer just changed mine for me a few K's back and I was filming when the mechanic was doing this and he was telling me some interesting facts.
They actually recommend the 5w-20 for the V8's. The reason all the paperwork and oil caps say 0w-20 is cause that is what is recommended for the V6 and they didn't bother to make new caps for the larger engine cause of costs.

 

So my dealer just changed mine for me a few K's back and I was filming when the mechanic was doing this and he was telling me some interesting facts.
They actually recommend the 5w-20 for the V8's. The reason all the paperwork and oil caps say 0w-20 is cause that is what is recommended for the V6 and they didn't bother to make new caps for the larger engine cause of costs.

****... that makes a lot more sense to me than a 0 weight oil being used of which I've always shrieked from... I'm going downstairs into the garage right now to take a pic of my oil cap. However, the V6 is still just a lopped off version of the V8 but still... The V8 is a V8... I don't care what the V6 needs I want what the V8 motor needs and demands. No offense to the V6 guys here or anywhere else as they can be pushed to stupid levels of power and TQ... but... I don't want another V6 motor, Twin-Turbo Charged or not... I've always found them missing "something" in regards to power, torque, finesse, towing, idling smoothness etc... A 5.0Liter is what I've always wanted and needed so that is that. I want a thicker Oil and even if I were to run another sup'd up V6 or even another built-out I-6 again... I still want something thicker than a 0W oil. Thanks for sharing Eossai604 as I appreciate it brother!

ETA: Yep, you confirmed it... The Oil Cap definitely says 0W-20 on it... I'm going with Castrol 5w20 Full Synthetic... (2) 5 Quart Jugs and filling her with (8) Quarts worth. I'm glad I asked this question here. That weight Castrol Professional is "OverKill" and a better suited oil can be sourced much easier and much cheaper in my honest opinion. YMMV of course... However, Thanks again and I hope this thread helps anyone else on the fence about what "Weight" oil they might want to put in their 5.0Liter V8 Supercharged. Thanks again eossai604 for pointing this out.

 

I have been watching this thread and find it interesting...

Specifically the fcpeuro bit

Recommended L405 Service Schedule and Fluids (for...

I'm a little old-school and still do most of my own maintenance. I found that trying to uncover the proper service schedule and fluid requirements for the L405 is not as easy as anticipated. I suspect most people just bring it to the dealership, and don't think twice. Most of the information on...

www.rangerovers.net

I will be doing my own oil changes on my new SVR as I already have a mighty vac from my LR3 and LR4 days looking forward to the easy oil changes where I do not have to remove skid plates etc as I do on my Raptor.

I have also been told that 0W oil was formulated for greater MPG if that’s true or not?

The liqui moly seems like good stuff or here is the Castrol stuff they have 5w20 and 0w20

SAE 0W20 Castrol Edge Professional Engine Original Equipment Oil - CS15AF6F

1 quart. Castrol Edge Professional Original Equipment Oil. Perfect for Discovery Sport, Discovery 5 and Range Rover vehicles.

www.roverparts.com

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I don't know Rover's reasoning behind the 0w20 oil choice... It very well could be for fuel mileage boost... However, one would think that longevity should/would be the ultimate choice. I've never put/used a "0w" motor oil in anything so Castrol Edge 5w-20 "Professional" is exactly what I will be replacing the 0w20 Professional that came along with the New Engine just 600 miles ago when she rolls that 1K mile mark. I'm 40 years old and "Old-School" so to speak. I got nervous when 10w-30 motor oil started becoming antiquated and 10w-20 and 5w-20 started to become the norm. I didn't fully trust Full Synthetics either for a long time until I was proven wrong. I staunchly believe Dyno and Full Synthetics both have their strong points and dedicated uses (the right tool for the job so to speak.) But Full-Synthetic oil is superior in almost every way when compared to Dyno oil for most motor oil/lubrication applications. YMMV...

 

You want the oil at cold start to circulate rapidly throughout the engine, hence the 0w spec. The lower the cold viscosity, the better, especially if you live in a cold climate.

Also, modern engines are engineered and built to really fine tolerances, so if you start using a thicker oil, you may end up damaging the engine.

I'd stick with the Jag/LR spec, oil is cheaper than an engine [emoji6]

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You want the oil at cold start to circulate rapidly throughout the engine, hence the 0w spec. The lower the cold viscosity, the better, especially if you live in a cold climate.

Also, modern engines are engineered and built to really fine tolerances, so if you start using a thicker oil, you may end up damaging the engine.

I'd stick with the Jag/LR spec, oil is cheaper than an engine [emoji6]

Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk

I agree with all you say for sure except the weight... I'm 99% sure the spec for oil in the manual is 5w-20 Castrol Full-Synthetic is the factory recommendation for the 5.0Liter Supercharged. I just pulled the manual from the glovebox. On page 258 of the manual it says the preferred oil weight and viscosity spec is 5w-20 is the recommendion. And if 5w-20 cannot be sourced then 0w-20 may be substituted... Page 259 is a full page dedicated to the endorsement of Castrol...

And yes, I have a brand new engine due to the previous owner not checking the oil level/being slack on the maintenance... and the price of that new at the cost of 32,000 and a week full of sleepless nights for sure fighting with a miserable warranty company that tried to deny coverage... "Easy Care" is their name and they are anything but Easy to work with... Thank God for His intervention or it wouldn't have been covered. 28 days at the dealer... 1.5 days for the install, 1.5 days for QA/QC and vetting... and 25 days battling with "Easy Care" warranty company. We had the Tech Advisor, Master Mechanic, and Shop Foreman scrapping it out with "Easy Care" management trying to say I bought the engine with a slung rod. I can laugh about it now but goodness Easy Care is an evil, thieving, crap warranty company. Nobody, I mean, Nobody is going to buy a vehicle that sounds like a tin can full of marbles loaded into a paint mixer. Pedestrians and other people in their vehicles with windows rolled up were staring at me like I was driving a ticking time-bomb on the way to the dealer 57 days after purchase. But "Easy Care" said, no, it did that from the test drive until I brought her to the dealer... Yeah, right!