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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm a little old-school and still do most of my own maintenance. I found that trying to uncover the proper service schedule and fluid requirements for the L405 is not as easy as anticipated. I suspect most people just bring it to the dealership, and don't think twice. Most of the information on the Internet is based on websites who are trying to show service schedules for all vehicles for marketing purposes, without much LR expertise.

After much research, and speaking to my local dealership, I am comfortable to follow the following schedule for my truck. This is my second full-size Range Rover, the first was an L322 with over 200,000 miles on it and still going strong. I'm planning on keeping this L405 for the long-haul. Passing on this information to the broader group in hopes that somebody finds value in it.

Some of this schedule is a little more conservative than what you may find on the official schedule from Range Rover or other sites, specifically the transfer case, differentials, and transmission. However, if you use your vehicle off road, or are towing heavier trailers, these fluids are incredibly important and offer a cheap insurance policy to better longevity. I have seen on the internet blogs anytime you start discussing fluids or durations it can become a discussion of near religious levels. I know there are different opinions out there, please just take my guidance for what it's worth.

As an aside, I found the best pricing for many of the fluid's is at www.AutohausAZ.com, however their vehicle selector is inaccurate and most of the fluids do not show up in the vehicle selector tool. The fluids listed below are the correct per my local dealership in Minnesota.

This list does not include the hundreds of other "inspect this, inspect that". Yes these are important tasks, but this list is just focused on just the core fluids and filters that need replacement.

General Schedule
  • Oil / Filter (every 15k / 1 year) 8 qts Mobil 1 0W-20 & Wix 57279
  • Air Filter (every 60k?) Wix 49593
  • Brake Fluid (every 3 years) Generic Dot 4
  • Lube hood latch assy (2) (every 75k)
  • Front diff fluid (every 75k) - Generic / Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90
  • Rear diff Fluid (every 75k) - Land Rover electronic locker 75W-90 LR019727 (note, not all 405's have electronic rear locking diffs, you may need to use a normal locking diff 75W-90 instead)
  • transfer case fluid (every 75k) - Land Rover Special Transfer Box Oil IYK5000010
  • Cabin Pollen filter (every 15k) - Wix 24511
  • Air suspension air filter (every 75k) - LR088858
  • Dynamic response fluid (every 75k) Land Rover Special Cornering Enhancement and PowerSteering Fluid STC50519 (no filter per LR dealership)
  • Transmission Fluid (ZF Lifeguard 8, 7 qts)
  • ZF transmission filter and pan LR065238 or ZF-108729823801
  • Brake Hoses (every 6 years)
  • Spark Plugs (every 105k)
  • Supercharger drive belt (every 105k)
  • Drive Belts (every 150k)
  • Fuel Filter (every 10 years / 150k miles)
  • Change Coolant (every 10 years)
  • Climate controlled seat filter? No, Per dealership, not replaceable on MY’16
BTW, in doing the first major service, at 75-80k, the total fluid and filter bill was about $650, using online shopping sites for the best possible pricing.

Good Luck!!!!
 

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Nice guide. I wanted to share my opinion on a couple of things...

I am based in AZ so autohausAZ is pretty nice to get OEM parts same day or next day via will call but I almost order everything exclusively through FCPeuro.

They have a lifetime warranty on ALL products. I simply bought Oil/oil filter/air filters/cabin filters/rear brake pads and rotors and every 5-7K miles, I order a new set and return the used fluids/filters back to them for a FULL refund (minus cost of shipping all that crap back to them ~60$ via fedex).

I personally would go with a shorter oil change interval. 15K just doesnt sit right with me.

I've had GREAT experience with this oil change kit via FCPeuro: 0W20 Special Tec LR Oil Change Kit - Liqui Moly/Mahle LM20410KT2

These air filters are OEM: Land Rover Air Filter - Mann LR011593

This cabin filter : Land Rover Cabin Filter - Mann LR036369

Total for Oil, oil filter, drain plug, 2 air filters, and cabin filter will run you $154.11 plus tax and FREE shipping (their free shipping is fast... I never pay extra for faster shipping as it's the same as their FREE in my experience).

Then let's say 5-10K miles later you want to do this service again, you order all of that stuff again, wait for it to come, put the old fluids and filters back in the NEW containers and ship it all BACK (60$ cost for me since I am on the west coast, cheaper if you are closer to FCP).

Boom. Quality liqui moly oil, OEM (mann/mahle filters) for ONLY the cost of shipping the old stuff back from here on out. It's an absolute steal, especially if you buy brakes from them. Buy, use the hell out of them, send them back and get brand new pads/rotors for the cost of shipping........

Also, I like to use BG 44K platium in my fuel every oil change and before I change the oil, I use their Engine Performance Restorer flush, and then put their Motor Oil Additive in the fresh oil to maximize lubrication and hopefully never have timing chain issues.
 

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Nice guide. I wanted to share my opinion on a couple of things...

I am based in AZ so autohausAZ is pretty nice to get OEM parts same day or next day via will call but I almost order everything exclusively through FCPeuro.

They have a lifetime warranty on ALL products. I simply bought Oil/oil filter/air filters/cabin filters/rear brake pads and rotors and every 5-7K miles, I order a new set and return the used fluids/filters back to them for a FULL refund (minus cost of shipping all that crap back to them ~60$ via fedex).

I personally would go with a shorter oil change interval. 15K just doesnt sit right with me.

I've had GREAT experience with this oil change kit via FCPeuro: 0W20 Special Tec LR Oil Change Kit - Liqui Moly/Mahle LM20410KT2

These air filters are OEM: Land Rover Air Filter - Mann LR011593

This cabin filter : Land Rover Cabin Filter - Mann LR036369

Total for Oil, oil filter, drain plug, 2 air filters, and cabin filter will run you $154.11 plus tax and FREE shipping (their free shipping is fast... I never pay extra for faster shipping as it's the same as their FREE in my experience).

Then let's say 5-10K miles later you want to do this service again, you order all of that stuff again, wait for it to come, put the old fluids and filters back in the NEW containers and ship it all BACK (60$ cost for me since I am on the west coast, cheaper if you are closer to FCP).

Boom. Quality liqui moly oil, OEM (mann/mahle filters) for ONLY the cost of shipping the old stuff back from here on out. It's an absolute steal, especially if you buy brakes from them. Buy, use the hell out of them, send them back and get brand new pads/rotors for the cost of shipping........

Also, I like to use BG 44K platium in my fuel every oil change and before I change the oil, I use their Engine Performance Restorer flush, and then put their Motor Oil Additive in the fresh oil to maximize lubrication and hopefully never have timing chain issues.
Seems a bit unethical, no?
 

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Not sure where the disconnect is. FCPEuro themselves advertise and encourage doing this. They have videos on how it works.

Buy a part. Use it. Return it. That’s their mantra.

By all means, continue buying fluids and filters... meanwhile I’ll use FCPEuro and get lifetime oil and filters for a one time cost of 60$ + initial purchase.
 

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I just read the returns page policy and FAQ, and it does look legit and consumables are cited as ok to return.
 

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I think most of the folks here were assuming that you were scamming them by sending back used fluids.

No folks, FCP Euro has an AWESOME return policy on wear items. Brakes/Pads...install new, and when you need to replace, send back the old ones for a full refund. Same with fluids, nothing unethical here.
 

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Lol. I agree.
 

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FCP Euro is great. There is no ethical issues about this. It's their marketing strategy and business model.
I purchase oil and wear parts from them for my race car: 1000 mile oil change interval is considered long for a race car. They took it and earned my respect. So I purchase most other parts I can find there to support the business, even tho they're a bit more expensive. Believe me the fluids and brake pads are a small part of their business. Most people sell cars only after a few years, and majority of the parts on the cars won't need changing during one ownership, e.g you'll alternator.
 

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I don't know about you guys but given all the timing chain issues and the apparent link to oil type/oil change frequency I don't screw around... castrol edge pro 0-20 E. It isn't cheap, but neither is the car or a timing chain. Do it every 5k. You cannot buy this oil outside the dealer, either dealer or online. The dealer wanted something like 30/ quart, I did better online and picked up 27 quarts on sale from roverparts for roughly 13/
 

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I just did mine with 0w20 liquid moly from FCPEuro which is LR approved 🤷 Way cheaper
 

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I just did mine with 0w20 liquid moly from FCPEuro which is LR approved 🤷 Way cheaper
Just looked that up... Interesting. I'm still content paying a bit more for exactly what the car wants, that and I already have a 3 year supply of it. :) too many oil change frequency/type discussions connected to engine/timing failure to worry about a few bux into a 150k car.
 

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Just looked that up... Interesting. I'm still content paying a bit more for exactly what the car wants, that and I already have a 3 year supply of it. :) too many oil change frequency/type discussions connected to engine/timing failure to worry about a few bux into a 150k car.
At the end of the day it all comes down to pref. But this liquid moly has makes the engine much quieter with it...so that tells me the engine likes it. It’s 0w20 and also approved by LR. so that’s why I went with it on my 150k ATB ;). I’m religious with oil changes anyway so that’s not an issue...I just go with quieter and cheaper :)
 

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At the end of the day it all comes down to pref. But this liquid moly has makes the engine much quieter with it...so that tells me the engine likes it. It’s 0w20 and also approved by LR. so that’s why I went with it on my 150k ATB ;). I’m religious with oil changes anyway so that’s not an issue...I just go with quieter and cheaper :)
Was it not quiet before? Adding lucas to a failing transmission/engine makes it quieter too, doesn't mean you're doing the car any favors. If it's approved by LR I'm sure it is fine, tho castrol edge professional E 0w-20 is what they recommended and sell, so for me it is a no brainer... especially with the record these engines have for front end failures. There are some interesting threads out there about oil and these jag/rover engines, the consensus was not to play around, so I just don't. Some say edge 5w-30 is a close match for the 0w-20 E also. What is actually in this stuff is proprietary so there isn't really a way to tell if it's just marketing or some more substantial difference. I do know the castrol formula includes a UV responsive additive to make oil leaks more visible during repair, so there's that.
 
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