Range Rovers Forum banner
21 - 40 of 119 Posts
Phill all stripped and cleaned all seem to b in good shape looks like the tc give up phill what all would i need to order of jpat i have the tc send for recon the bearing that goes is ok no wear on it at all but maybe would need changed what u think so what do i need to order
 
I’m never quite sure whether I’m doing the right thing encouraging people to strip down their transmissions.
I for one have no intention of ever rebuilding my own transmission when it has issues, but the information you've provided will still be invaluable because I'll be able to know what I'm talking about when I take it to a shop. I love reading all your posts and I've learned a lot, but I still know what I don't know and I think most people are the same way. I think you are doing us all a great service.
 
I for one have no intention of ever rebuilding my own transmission when it has issues, but the information you've provided will still be invaluable because I'll be able to know what I'm talking about when I take it to a shop. I love reading all your posts and I've learned a lot, but I still know what I don't know and I think most people are the same way. I think you are doing us all a great service.
+1 with sugar on top.....
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Phill all stripped and cleaned all seem to b in good shape looks like the tc give up phill what all would i need to order of jpat i have the tc send for recon the bearing that goes is ok no wear on it at all but maybe would need changed what u think so what do i need to order
The official overhaul kit (ZF 1058 298 022, JPAT N211 02 01ZF) is essential – it contains all the gaskets and seals (I’m assuming that you’re stripping the clutches down to check & replace the piston seals?)

Image


Actually, when I say the kit contains all the seals, I’m lying. The rear output seal included in the kit is for the RWD transmissions (Jaguar & BMW) but the Range Rover uses a different lip seal that you have to buy separately. Its part number is ZF 0734 319 520, JPAT N212 15 04).

Also, there’s an O-ring on the transmission output shaft which, again, is unique to the L322 and isn’t included in the kit (ZF 0734 313 181, JPAT N208 16 15).

I always replace the three steel pipes because they have to be hammered into place and seal properly through being crushed slightly at the ends (interference fit in the holes) :

Oil Tube (E-brake feed) – ZF 1058 301 021, JPAT N211 63 01
Oil Tube (B-clutch feed) – ZF 1058 301 020, JPAT N211 63 02
Oil Tube (sprag lubrication) – ZF 1058 301 071, JPAT N211 63 03

Even though your B-clutch hub/C-clutch drum bearing looks okay I’d recommend that, for the sake of £6, you replace it anyway.

Image


If you ended up destroying the heads of any of the twelve countersunk M8x24 screws that hold the F-brake drum into the casing they cost around £1.50 each (ZF 0736 401 071, JPAT N208 37 01).

To my horror JPAT - an official ZF spares distributor - started supplying cheap Taiwanese pattern-part filters for the 5HP24 so I now source mine from my Land Rover dealer to be sure that I get a genuine Filtran part (p/n LPW 000030).

And that’s about it really.

So there’s no wear on the three B-clutch hub pads?

Image

No wear

Image

Worn

Any problems, just give me a shout

Phil
 
Start again in the middle of Refurbishing a 05 plate range rover Overfinch 580s one with the bored out 4.4 BMW engine in it I have a problem with a vibration at all speeds but more noticeable at 50mph fitted a new torque converter about 6 weeks ago problem vibration nearly when but was still there any ideas am thinking in may need a rebuild on the gearbox ;( the people that fitted the torque converter landrover themselves changes the old but not the filter ? Could this be the Culprit or am a been a tad Optimistic ;0)
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Nothing goes through the valve block that hasn't been through the filter first and there are also two screens (filters) inside the duct plate to provide further protection for the eight solenoids. I very rarely find any issues inside the valve block even on transmissions whose failures have generated large amounts of debris. The photo below shows a very rare exception. I'd be tempted to leave it if I were you.

Image


Phil
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Although it’s not obvious to the naked eye, the steel washer wears to a taper so I’d strongly suggest that you get the old washer out & replace it

Image


It’s often harder than it looks to get out because its outer diameter is pin punched in a couple of places to hold it in a shallow retaining groove and also the oil film tries to retain it. You need to lift it slightly off the flat face (I use a strong magnet) and get a small screwdriver underneath it. Make sure that the new one is pushed down fully onto the face otherwise there will be insufficient endfloat in the input shaft.

Phil
 
I have disassembled the same tranny and noticed a strange wear pattern in one of the clutch drums.

The three dimples are worn concave by the clutch carrier.

These 2 parts are called the Clutch Disc Carrier according to the ZF spares list. Part Nbrs 187 and 188.

Is this wear normal???

It is metal to metal contact which doesn't sound correct to me!

Any help greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
John

 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
I have disassembled the same tranny and noticed a strange wear pattern in one of the clutch drums.

The three dimples are worn concave by the clutch carrier.

These 2 parts are called the Clutch Disc Carrier according to the ZF spares list. Part Nbrs 187 and 188.

Is this wear normal???

It is metal to metal contact which doesn't sound correct to me!

Any help greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
John

View attachment 14870
This metal-to-metal contact between the B-clutch disc carrier and hub is caused by wear in the 1058 202 016 axial needle roller bearing. You can even see the wear on the axial bearing washer in your photo (see post #24 in this thread which shows the bearing).

Phil
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Phill on clutch d i have a coller with 2 o rings then a washer on top of the coller why i ask is when the coller is in and i set the washer on the half moon bit on makes the washer not sit flush i hope u know what i mean
Sorry, I’m not quite with you. Can you maybe post up a photo of the parts you mean or identify them on a diagram?

Is the collar with the two O-rings that you referred to this support bush?

Image


Phil
 
This metal-to-metal contact between the B-clutch disc carrier and hub is caused by wear in the 1058 202 016 axial needle roller bearing. You can even see the wear on the axial bearing washer in your photo (see post #24 in this thread which shows the bearing).

Phil
So, should I also replace the b clutch hub?

I guess its also best to replace all the bearngs even if the others look ok?

Thanks for the help!

John
 
21 - 40 of 119 Posts