The driver pack is the actual brains that runs the solenoids. The ECU under the seat takes the inputs from the height sensors, dash switch door open switches, hatch open switch and brake peddle and handle as well as speed and tells the driver pack to raise or lower each corner and that it is safe to do so. At least that is the simplified explanation I received with my first P38.

You don;t say what kind of "off the shelf units" you would replace it with, nor does that really seem plausible. A few folks have tried to redesign the driver pack. At last check someone was pretty close. Unfortunately projects like this spend a lot of time on the back shelf due to lack of time.

 

To add a bit more, the ECU sends signals to the driver pack telling it which solenoids need to be opened and the driver pack then switches each solenoid using peak and hold signals at high power. Marty_NZ did try designing a more modern replacement and built a prototype using off the shelf MOSFETS but in testing found that it failed at high temperatures. It is the encapsulated block of electronics bolted to the side of the valve block. Most common problem isn't the pack itself but the connections between the pack and the solenoids in the multiway connector although some have found failed solder joints under the encapsulation.

 

it failed at high temperatures.

I have heard that the majority of failures are attributable to heat, so, with that in mind, would shifting the driver unit to under the seat with the ECU have any effect on temperatures?
Yes, there will be wiring changes needed, but that is relatively easy and a heck of a lot cheaper than new drivers.

 

..as other mentioned..its a driver, drives valves inside valve block...valves are driven by pulse signal of 25ms roughly, with initial low state of 50ms, triggered by input signal of 10V(amplitude of pulse signal is 10V as well, if im not mistaken)..i did play with this thing before and managed to get it work, where output driver i have used high performance solid state relays driven by PIC24HJ128GP202-I/SO which was generating pulse signals based on ECU input ...it worked well but i never put it in to PCB form..

 

The point of the driver is to deal with high(er) current switching to the solenoids. In doing what you suggest you would introduce some resistance because of the longer leads from where the solenoids are located to under the seat. This could lead to inconsistent operation of the solenoids and some heat in the wiring.

To combat this you'd need to use heavier gauge cable which would (IMV) rapidly become unwieldy.

If you've had 'connection issues' with the current driver set it's entirely possible this may be the root cause of your problems because poor connections and high current can cause significant localised heat. Probably better to sort out the issues at the outset, ensuring good connections etc, rather than modifying. Personally I think the drivers are relatively reliable in their normal environment. If you felt heat was a real issue then you could just install a small fan to circulate some air - probably an old PC power supply fan, or chassis fan, would do.

PU.

 

Several folks have installed fan with less than positive results. The flaw in that idea is that you are moving hot air from under the hood across the already warm contents of the EAS box. In order for the fan concept to work fresh air would need to be ducted in from under the fender or from behind a head light. Some form of filtration would be advisable so your aren't filling the box with dust.

 

Is this my problem ?
Came out of hospital to a dead battery ,,fitted new battery ( dead cell ) .
Left it running ,door open to charge air , came out ten minutes later ,compressor pump stone cold ,not running .
So bypassed with relay,and up to full hight it went .
Changed relay and took for a spin .
After 30mph full hight flashed to take me lower,but switch didn't stop flashing and the car never lowered.
The switch is working normal , the driver is telling car to lower .
I have a spare known good ECU ,swapped over not difference .
Is it a driver module issue , ways of testing ?.
I can hear seloniods click,but no pump action .
I've been at all connections, looking,
pump activation from app not working

 

Your EAS Unlock software is not connecting properly. All the faults shown are probably wrong. You need to get the "Good Idle" in the botton right Status box first.

Also check the connector between the driver pack & the solenoids (underneath the valve block). The connector may feel tight, but the contacts inside expand over time, so the solenoids don't always open.

Remember to lower the car it needs Exhaust valve & the required corner valve to open.

 

Also check the connector between the driver pack & the solenoids (underneath the valve block). The connector may feel tight, but the contacts inside expand over time, so the solenoids don't always open.

I've got three plugs here ,how do I access other?

 

Thank you

 

After reconnecting connections,the compressor fired up from where there was nothing .
I ran I software ....... Now no faults registering......
However still not going up ???.

 

If you've got no faults showing and the solenoids are clicking, then it is unlikely to be a driver pack problem (connector between the driver pack and solenoid coils is underneath the valve block so it has to be taken out to get to it). How long did you leave it with the compressor running? If the reservoir is empty it can take up to 10 minutes before it starts to rise.

 

Door open for nearly 15 mins , the problem has seemed to changed cleaning the connectors , so I'll try and get to the one under block ." Once I read how to get it out ,"
Appreciate the time

 

Block out , driver connector cleaned.all back together .( It was a git to separate .)
With software, ( no faults apart from moved )I can manually switch pump on,but when I turn it off I get a blast from eas exhaust,( I removed silencer ) is this right .same happens if I bypass with relay , ... None leaks out when pump on ?
I cannot raise lower with software.
Dash switch ,ecu I swapped but no difference,

Just ordered another driver ,(always handy )
Appreciate your time .thank you .

 

Yes there's always a puff of air from the exhaust when the pump shuts off. With pump running the diaphragn valve is engaged to shutoff the exhaust. Consequently when the pump stops, the diaphragm opens and some air trapped between the pump & diaphragm escapes.

 

Thank you for the explanation,.
I was doing the RSW video tests ,so pretty much all signing. and dancing .apart from it don't work .
Appreciate your time ...wait for postman .

 

Driver arrived, fitted, but no power again in battery to test ,got it started, and checked voltage ..... Alternator is not working .
Now I'm guessing ,it was that all along ..... Thoughts .?
But no Alternator faults message

 

Because it fits the thread title, here's the LR explaination of what the driver pack does:

 

Thanks for the time posting that , nice to see how things work , makes it so much understandable.
Alternator turned up ,and everything singing and dancing .......apart from alternator didn't show a fault .
The powers of voltage
Appreciate the help and time with learning curve .
Thanks again .