Please tell me this is not the dreaded timing chain? 😕
naks
Pretty quiet which might be good. Maybe an idler pulley?
What’s the chain feel like through the oil filler hole?
What’s the chain feel like through the oil filler hole?
In your second video it does indeed sound like a cam timing chain noise,
That said it can also be the supercharger coupler ,
so for a definite confirmation ,
you should remove the SC belt and then retest the engine.
NOTE the reason for the worn out timing chains beyond the design is the extended oil change frequency recommended by the MFG.
I would suggest you follow a 5K miles protocol to increase the longevity of the valve train components.
NOTE if you got a lease truck the chances are good its only had 3 oil changes in 50K miles.
NOTE The cam phasers also wear out from extended oil change intervals they will then make these clicking noises
That said it can also be the supercharger coupler ,
so for a definite confirmation ,
you should remove the SC belt and then retest the engine.
NOTE the reason for the worn out timing chains beyond the design is the extended oil change frequency recommended by the MFG.
I would suggest you follow a 5K miles protocol to increase the longevity of the valve train components.
NOTE if you got a lease truck the chances are good its only had 3 oil changes in 50K miles.
NOTE The cam phasers also wear out from extended oil change intervals they will then make these clicking noises
Hi There,
This is exactly what mine was doing. My situation is more perplexing perhaps. I have a 2011 Range Rover Full Size Supercharged SUV. I am the original one - one owner car.
1. At 59,600 miles my vehicle had the timing guide and tensioners replaced at the dealership in 2017
2. I changed my oil every 5k to 6k depending on my schedule - no maintenance costs was spared - trust me.
3. As I approached 99,000 miles last year I noticed an odd noise from the vehicle, which I thought could be guide and tensioners, but that would be odd since they were done recently. At the oil change at the dealership they inspected the vehicle and stated it was the Supercharger Coupler and it was noisy but not problem. I was happy enough to hear this and continued to use my vehicle per usual.
4. This is where the fun stops - at the grocery store I drive it there no check engine lights perfect condition - park it. Buy some food load it in the boot - get in the car to leave and turn on the vehicle it sounds awful!!!!
5. I turned it off right away - I then waited 1 minute or so and started it again - this time it took longer to start - started sounded awful - check engine light flashing - screen says reduced engine performance...obviously
This is the part where your heart sinks as you know your beloved English SUV has failed you
I had a code reader in my Range Rover like any responsible Range Rover owner would have and it states camshaft position - correlation error - driver side bank of engine.
I've done everything right with my SUV. It looks new, but here we are with a mechanically totaled vehicle.
BUT WAIT - it gets worse - I want to put my vehicle back on the road the price of the engines (even rebuilt) with install honestly the vehicle makes no sense to repair. I have had quotes from 20k to 50k. I have spoke to multiple dealerships in CT, RI, MA - some flat out state they do not have time to do that job and don't want to do the work. Private shops warn against it due to the cost, but will take my money, but it would take 2 to 3 engines before we get one that works and we do not know how long it works for. The rebuilt engine world is a scary place. You have fly by night shops in Florida, California, stating that make these engines better...do they....no.
My Solution: Buy a Lexus LX - it runs upgraded the brakes - stops better now too like a Range Rover too.
I have a lawn ornament in my garage - I've had offers from $500 bucks to give it to me for free to $1,500. Its honestly a terrible situation - I want my vehicle fixed, but the company doesn't seem to care about keeping their fleet on the road, there are no parts, no new engines with etas available, and just want us to go out and buy the new 200k Range Rover....pass.
Do I want my car fixed, yes, how we can do it to make it economically make sense - probably impossible
Don't let this be you - changing your oil, thinking its the coupler, listening to a lazy dealership tell you its the coupler vs checking the chain components again, mind as well do the chain job for the 6k to 7k - cheaper then a new engine, less headache, and you can keep your car on the road longer.
The theory with mine is when the dealership did the guides and tensioners, maybe they did not replace the chain? We do not know why it failed - I need to send it to that guy on YouTube who takes these apart to do the autopsy. Personally, I want to pull a WhistlinDiesel with the vehicle
I have two other full size Range Rovers P38 and Early 2005 L322, probably semi ill in some way, but running....so clearly I haven't learned my lesson and supported a brand that doesn't support its owners for far too long.
I hope this insights helps you out a bit - wishing you good luck from CT.
This is exactly what mine was doing. My situation is more perplexing perhaps. I have a 2011 Range Rover Full Size Supercharged SUV. I am the original one - one owner car.
1. At 59,600 miles my vehicle had the timing guide and tensioners replaced at the dealership in 2017
2. I changed my oil every 5k to 6k depending on my schedule - no maintenance costs was spared - trust me.
3. As I approached 99,000 miles last year I noticed an odd noise from the vehicle, which I thought could be guide and tensioners, but that would be odd since they were done recently. At the oil change at the dealership they inspected the vehicle and stated it was the Supercharger Coupler and it was noisy but not problem. I was happy enough to hear this and continued to use my vehicle per usual.
4. This is where the fun stops - at the grocery store I drive it there no check engine lights perfect condition - park it. Buy some food load it in the boot - get in the car to leave and turn on the vehicle it sounds awful!!!!
5. I turned it off right away - I then waited 1 minute or so and started it again - this time it took longer to start - started sounded awful - check engine light flashing - screen says reduced engine performance...obviously
This is the part where your heart sinks as you know your beloved English SUV has failed you
I had a code reader in my Range Rover like any responsible Range Rover owner would have and it states camshaft position - correlation error - driver side bank of engine.
I've done everything right with my SUV. It looks new, but here we are with a mechanically totaled vehicle.
BUT WAIT - it gets worse - I want to put my vehicle back on the road the price of the engines (even rebuilt) with install honestly the vehicle makes no sense to repair. I have had quotes from 20k to 50k. I have spoke to multiple dealerships in CT, RI, MA - some flat out state they do not have time to do that job and don't want to do the work. Private shops warn against it due to the cost, but will take my money, but it would take 2 to 3 engines before we get one that works and we do not know how long it works for. The rebuilt engine world is a scary place. You have fly by night shops in Florida, California, stating that make these engines better...do they....no.
My Solution: Buy a Lexus LX - it runs upgraded the brakes - stops better now too like a Range Rover too.
I have a lawn ornament in my garage - I've had offers from $500 bucks to give it to me for free to $1,500. Its honestly a terrible situation - I want my vehicle fixed, but the company doesn't seem to care about keeping their fleet on the road, there are no parts, no new engines with etas available, and just want us to go out and buy the new 200k Range Rover....pass.
Do I want my car fixed, yes, how we can do it to make it economically make sense - probably impossible
Don't let this be you - changing your oil, thinking its the coupler, listening to a lazy dealership tell you its the coupler vs checking the chain components again, mind as well do the chain job for the 6k to 7k - cheaper then a new engine, less headache, and you can keep your car on the road longer.
The theory with mine is when the dealership did the guides and tensioners, maybe they did not replace the chain? We do not know why it failed - I need to send it to that guy on YouTube who takes these apart to do the autopsy. Personally, I want to pull a WhistlinDiesel with the vehicle
I have two other full size Range Rovers P38 and Early 2005 L322, probably semi ill in some way, but running....so clearly I haven't learned my lesson and supported a brand that doesn't support its owners for far too long.
I hope this insights helps you out a bit - wishing you good luck from CT.
Update: a video of the supercharger being rotated by hand https://new.reddit.com/r/rangeroversport/comments/1d70qhy/supercharger_coupler_needs_replacing/
So the coupler needs to be replaced, right?
So the coupler needs to be replaced, right?
I think the OEM coupler has some play built into it, but a new solid coupler will be better overall as the OEM one is multi-piece and can break more easily.
This is the correct part for JLR.
superchargersonline.com
Torsional Supercharger Coupler for 2009-2015 Jaguar, Land Rover, Range Rover 5.0L (Eaton Factory Replacement) - Superchargers Online
The supercharger coupler mates the front drive cover input shaft (also called the nose drive) to the timing gears that spin the supercharger rotors. It isolates the gears and rotors from high torsional inputs generated at the crankshaft due to cylinder-to-cylinder firing variations, primarily at...
superchargersonline.com
from superchargersonline, fml
" It appears that the correct isolator for your vehicle will be either part number 360145 or 360148. The problem I am running into is Eaton changed couplers during the 2015 model year and it could have either one of these isolators. Is there any chance you can remove the nose cover and take a picture of your actual isolator. If that is not an option, then we could sell you both isolators and then you can return the one that is not needed. So shoot me a picture if you can and we will go from there. "
" It appears that the correct isolator for your vehicle will be either part number 360145 or 360148. The problem I am running into is Eaton changed couplers during the 2015 model year and it could have either one of these isolators. Is there any chance you can remove the nose cover and take a picture of your actual isolator. If that is not an option, then we could sell you both isolators and then you can return the one that is not needed. So shoot me a picture if you can and we will go from there. "
from powerhouse.co.uk:
"Hi Nakkiran,
No, we only sell the OEM sprung coupler, not the oil filled nylon ones.
This is because we used to sell oil-filled solid for these models and after a year of selling we found approx.. 50% of those customers complaining of a high frequency rattle at idle. Vibration can be bad for superchargers so without long-term knowledge of whether this would impact the supercharger reliability we advise not using them."
"Hi Nakkiran,
No, we only sell the OEM sprung coupler, not the oil filled nylon ones.
This is because we used to sell oil-filled solid for these models and after a year of selling we found approx.. 50% of those customers complaining of a high frequency rattle at idle. Vibration can be bad for superchargers so without long-term knowledge of whether this would impact the supercharger reliability we advise not using them."
Car's in for the coupler replacement.
At some point in 2014, Eaton changed the size of the coupler, but neither them nor JLR can which size is fitted from the VIN.
The only way to get the correct size is to strip the supercharger and measure the old coupler, which, as you can imagine, is a major PITA because no stealer stocks this part as a matter of course.
My local stealer graciously allowed us to order both sizes about a month ago, and to return the one we don't use within a week
![Thumbs Up]( "Thumbs Up")
At some point in 2014, Eaton changed the size of the coupler, but neither them nor JLR can which size is fitted from the VIN.
The only way to get the correct size is to strip the supercharger and measure the old coupler, which, as you can imagine, is a major PITA because no stealer stocks this part as a matter of course.
My local stealer graciously allowed us to order both sizes about a month ago, and to return the one we don't use within a week
after much to-fro with the dealership, we finally found the correct part, which oddly enough had to be sourced from the Jaguar parts bin: C2D60916, which is the 49.38 mm one.
![Image]()
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