possibility or impending pump failure, also there was some info here of defender forum in regards to pressure relief valve. can't recall exactly what but seems to have resolved a similar issue.

 

Check the steering ball joints for free articulation on all the steering links. If any are seized and not maintained well, it will put load into the power assist pump to make it groan.

If you have any resistance to turning while the noise is present, then it's a remote possibility that if you have a damaged CV joint that the bits are causing a problem in turning that wheel. As indicated this, is possible but remote and feels like you've reached the steering stops.

 

Thanks for the prompt replies. The pump does look original but I'm still at the change everything that will leave me stranded stage and the power steering pump hasn't appeared on the list yet...

Seems to be in middle of range and isn't accompanied by binding or change in engine load. While I had it jacked I did give all joints a wobble to feel for play or binding but nothing untoward. Can hear the releif valve working at full lock and not while i have it weight off wheels and turn it. I have yet to drive by another classic and definately don't have a comparison to know whether its lacking assistance etc.

Will keep on with it and advise of solution to preserve the knowledge base! Swivels aren't looking too clever but I have replenished the oil. Could the swivel seals be doing it I now wonder...

Excuse the disjointed rant.

 

If you lift the front axle and separate the first steering link where it meets the wheel, then you can move the wheels by hand to check if there are any serious problems.

Also while like this you can run the engine and move the steering wheel from lock to lock to see if you still have the noise with just the steering box in isolation.

 

Hi RR London, very logical, will give that a go this weekend and report back. Only concern is its so intermittent but will definately help get a feel for any binding in the system and follow it down/up.
Wife is away so have a whole weekend of tinkering and a box full of new parts. Great fun!

 

I have heard from many, not to put these classics to full lock if possible. You will shorten the life of the pump. So I would avoid the full lock groan if possible...

 

That applies to all power steering systems. There is never a valid reason for sitting t full lock and overpressurizing the pump.

 

Just an additional thought, you'll have to also drop the steering damper from the drag link to be able to turn and feel the axle assembly by hand.

Splitting the system in half is something we used running Kodachrome film process as it was so complex you had to try and break it down into chunks to save time in diagnosis.

 

Right finally got time to have a play. Based on breaking the system down sans damper it seems to be in one or more of the rod ends. Can confirm one by feeling it whilst moving the wheels disconnected to the box and all are same vintage so will order away and change the lot! Based on the sound was sure it was damper and runner up would be the box. Assumptions ass u and me etc...

 

Right, replaced the rod ends on the track rod that goes from the steering box to the left wheel. Noise has gone. Hoorah. I have to change the tie rods on the track bar on the rear but before I do does anyone know if there should be a kink in that bar?

 

Well done, at least you've got some progress. It's surprising where some of the noises come from.

A cautionary word based of my first post, when it's mot'd, some of them insist it should go on the brake test rollers as it has a centre diff, but they don't know that with a viscous controlled centre it'll damage something and try to get out of the rollers. It definitely shouldn't be tested in that fashion.

Just been to look at that rear tracking link on mine, it's as straight as an arrow, the one connecting left wheel assembly to right with steering damper on it.

 

Test centre is through a friend so I'll go with him as I need to point out the things that are on my list and, ahem, will be better next year! Not sure how au fait they are with rrc so will have to politely hint or probe on the brake test. Don't want to be that bloke telling them how to suck eggs. Have enough people do that to me.

The bend looks like it could have been engineered but didn't make sense with the damper action. Back to Rimmerbros again. They are having a great few months out of me. Can't fault them mind.

Thanks again Wimbledon, be sure to give a wave should our classics pass.

 

Well done! You fixed it before I had a chance to pass on my own experience of a similar issue. The grease monkey who changed a track rod end did not bother to even roughly align the wheels and therefore on full lock, I had the same grinding noise you experienced.

Had the pros do a proper wheel alignment - problem solved

 

I know what you mean about telling the MOT guy how to do their job. I give mind a heads up about anything I think could affect it as many of them aren't that familiar with these cars.
They did say they see things far worse than I appreciate and mine is not bad overall. Some of the things they showed me I'd never consider even driving at all!
Looks like your bar has been snagged one something like a rollback offroad to bend it, they're generally pretty tough but a little exposed under there if you get into a failed climb of chunky terrain.
Yes, usually give a wave to any I see around here, mine's Westminster grey.