Yea you read it right. At the Auction, had been down there 3 years in the corner and ignored constantly over and over again. Even by me. I decided to inquire about it and it turns out the the Auction Higher-ups wanted it gone. They couldn't even figure out what was wrong with the thing, as they couldn't get it to start.
2011. Range Rover Supercharged 5.0.
I offer $1000. The take it under the premise that I take it immediately. A tow truck later and I have it at my house. Well, needless to say whoever their in house mechanic is, is either slow or lazy, because it was easy to figure out why it wouldn't start. Needed a new Battery. Checked the Oil and it was black as sin. Checked it's Coolant and that stuffs new. Was low on brake fluid. That is it. Drained the gas out. Put one in. 9 Quarts of some DUMB expensive oil from the dealership, topped off the Brake Fluid and since it wasn't detecting the key fob I put it by the column and she started right up. I let her run for an hour straight.
No overheating. No misfiring. No nothing. Doesn't even have the timing chain clatter I hear these things have and low and behold....she has only 61k mileage. Nice.
Why am I here??
Well, the right left Caliper on this thing driven until the caliper basically popped all the way out, and the rotor on the thing is literally as thin as a Penny. So I removed the Caliper, tested to see if it would go back in, turns out it does. With no issues. Changed the rotor, and back pads while I was at it. NOW....
I have brakes at the rear. And while the front brakes bite, they bite HARDEST on the second pump of the brakes. The Master Cylinder appears to be fine. No leaking, the seals are intact, no blackness in the fluid. Also I have the ABS Triangle, as well as the Orange "Brake" lamp lit. But it's holding fluid fine no leaks.
Do I need to do a full bleed of the system? A bleed at the ABS actutor? is this a sensor thing? Will the car electronically NOT send Brake force to the rear if it detects something is amiss??...any kind of insight would be great as this is truly the ONLY problem with the truck. I actually drove it around and while I can stop wit just the two upfront, for the upcoming winter days Id like the full control and power of all 4 corners working.
Sidenote: Is there a fuse or something I pull to check as to why this thing isn't reading the fob without me putting it on the column? I have no keyless entry functions whatsoever, but it works fine when I hold it up by the column underside.
2011. Range Rover Supercharged 5.0.
I offer $1000. The take it under the premise that I take it immediately. A tow truck later and I have it at my house. Well, needless to say whoever their in house mechanic is, is either slow or lazy, because it was easy to figure out why it wouldn't start. Needed a new Battery. Checked the Oil and it was black as sin. Checked it's Coolant and that stuffs new. Was low on brake fluid. That is it. Drained the gas out. Put one in. 9 Quarts of some DUMB expensive oil from the dealership, topped off the Brake Fluid and since it wasn't detecting the key fob I put it by the column and she started right up. I let her run for an hour straight.
No overheating. No misfiring. No nothing. Doesn't even have the timing chain clatter I hear these things have and low and behold....she has only 61k mileage. Nice.
Why am I here??
Well, the right left Caliper on this thing driven until the caliper basically popped all the way out, and the rotor on the thing is literally as thin as a Penny. So I removed the Caliper, tested to see if it would go back in, turns out it does. With no issues. Changed the rotor, and back pads while I was at it. NOW....
I have brakes at the rear. And while the front brakes bite, they bite HARDEST on the second pump of the brakes. The Master Cylinder appears to be fine. No leaking, the seals are intact, no blackness in the fluid. Also I have the ABS Triangle, as well as the Orange "Brake" lamp lit. But it's holding fluid fine no leaks.
Do I need to do a full bleed of the system? A bleed at the ABS actutor? is this a sensor thing? Will the car electronically NOT send Brake force to the rear if it detects something is amiss??...any kind of insight would be great as this is truly the ONLY problem with the truck. I actually drove it around and while I can stop wit just the two upfront, for the upcoming winter days Id like the full control and power of all 4 corners working.
Sidenote: Is there a fuse or something I pull to check as to why this thing isn't reading the fob without me putting it on the column? I have no keyless entry functions whatsoever, but it works fine when I hold it up by the column underside.
