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Reverse camera working on standard sat nav screen

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24K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  ukadamwest  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I had a closer look at the sat nav in the later model P38s, with a bit of jointing wires and a spot of soldering it is possible to add a reverse camera (or anything else that uses composite video) to the system. Sorry about the lack of photos, I no longer have the rangie any more, but I've tried to write it up as best as I could.

The aim here was to get a camera to switch on when the range rover is in reverse, then back to the sat nav for normal driving.

First off, the screen uses RGsB for an input, individual red green and blue channels with the video sync on the green channel. This means you can either connect composite to the green channel and enjoy video with a green tint, or get a converter for full colour. I chose to go the full colour route.
Here's the proof of concept on the green channel:
Image


I bought a component to RGsB converter off ebay. It was $50 from the US, but by the time I had paid shipping and import duty it was about £75, by far the priciest component of the project. It runs off 5V DC, so it's powered from the cigarette lighter 12V feed at the bottom right of the boot through a standard USB charger adapter.
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To get video into the screen, pop out the sat nav computer in the boot, and disconnect the 2 connectors. The one with the video signals is the blue plug (C1349 in Rave).
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Pin 5 - Green
Pin 7 - Red
Pin 10 - Blue
Pins 14, 15 and 16 are video ground.
I cut the wires and soldered on RGB component leads to both the wires coming from the sat nav plug, and to the sat nav screen. This is where the signal would get intercepted.
Image

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With the soldering done, the sat nav computer can be plugged back in and put back in its slot. As the video isn't connected yet, the display should just show plain white.
I stuck the reverse camera in the handle between the numberplate lights, and routed the power and video cable up through the tailgate, and through to the main car with the rest of the wiring at the top right of the window.
Image

This gives a great view of the towbar, which is probably the only reason to have a camera on one of these.
Unfortunately, this is where the pictures get a bit thin. The circuit to get it all up and going consisted of 3 separate RGB sockets, 2 inputs and 1 output.
Input 1 - original Sat nav computer
Input 2 - composite to RGsB converter
Output - To screen.
I used 3 relays, one for each colour channel, which were activated by 12V from the reverse lights. The way this was configured was so the sat nav computer was connected while the relay was off, then switched to the reverse camera when the reverse lights came on. I stuck it all in a small plastic box and hid it under the side panel, there's loads of room. I'll see if I can dig out the schematic I drew when I get back to my computer.

The end result was this:
Image

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In theory, this could be adapted to work with a dvd player, assuming it used composite out. To get audio it would probably be easiest to get an aux adapter for the CD changer loom and plug it in there, I never had time to dabble with the sat nav speaker.

Hope this helps anyone wondering if it was possible, I know I can't have been the only one!

Link to the converter (or one similar):
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=120332220654&alt=web
 
#5 ·
Yes, I forgot to mention there that the tailgate is open on that shot...My bad! The camera was fairly wide angled, so I got everything from the 3 or 4 inches of bumper sticking out behind the tailgate to about 4ft behind the car. The camera was a cheap generic one from Amazon, specifically this one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-6mm-Reversing-Backup-Camera-Vision-Black/dp/B003T91K94

To get it fitted properly I had to take a dremel to the plastic handle, so it would fit in the gap nice and flush. Any camera with composite video should work fine though. You'll probably have to extend the power wire though, I think mine only reached to the top of the rear window at first! The video cable is plenty long enough, I think it comes with 5 metres or something silly.

Edit, if you can overlook the rubbish paint skills, this is roughly the field of view I had:

Image
 
#6 ·
The circuit to get it all up and going consisted of 3 separate RGB sockets, 2 inputs and 1 output. Input 1 - original Sat nav computer Input 2 - composite to RGsB converterOutput - To screen. I used 3 relays, one for each colour channel, which were activated by 12V from the reverse lights. The way this was configured was so the sat nav computer was connected while the relay was off, then switched to the reverse camera when the reverse lights came on. I stuck it all in a small plastic box and hid it under the side panel, there's loads of room. I'll see if I can dig out the schematic I drew when I get back to my computer.
This is the wiring dirgram I knocked up, it's basically connecting each separate colour to its own relay.

Image


I used these relays, they are 2 pole (so 2 channels work on 1 relay) and come in packs of 2.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390274026615

The also fit perfectly into breadboards, which made it dead easy to put together.
 
#11 ·
Planning to fit my reverse camera tomorrow. Bought one of these WiFi cams http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-2-4G-...a-Andriod-UK-Shipping-/321441437926?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item4ad76718e6

Works quite well on bench, and triggers the Android Tablet app when 12V reverse signal applied to camera.

Pete
That's pretty cool, is there any delay from starting/connecting the camera up? I considered ripping out the stock sat nav and throwing an android tablet in it (a Tronsmart PS7 fits almost exactly in the sat nav void, just 5mm too big either way) but didn't trust myself to chop up a limited edition dash board!
 
#12 ·
bj345, i'm just looking through your pictures and your wiring diagram and just wanted to clarify something.

on the blue sat nat cable you tapped into it with the RGB cable. this i take it connects the RGB converter to the camera through the relays. it looks from the picture that you have tapped into the white connector cable with the other half of the component cable, what was the wiring connection for that ?

Many thanks
 
#14 ·
My bad, the picture isn't aligned too great, the white plug is left totally untouched.

Blue plug - soldered RGB cables - video in on the diagram.

Video out then goes to the other soldered RGB cables, which are just the other end of the cables coming out of the blue plug.

I suppose you don't need the RGB cables in there, you could just splice the video signals out of the blue plug and solder them directly to the relays, but this way the whole thing can be removed at a later date and normal sat nav functionality restored with 3 female to female RCA adaptors.

Here's a link to the full sized picture if it helps

http://i.imgur.com/2A9ciWy.jpg
 
#15 ·
bjh345, thank you.

so just to clarify, you have the the male rgb's coming from the sat nav plug splice in, these go to the RGB converter, then the other side of the cable with the other half of the RGB cable spliced in goes where ? sorry if i'm dense, i want to be completely sure i get it right before chopping into wiring !
 
#16 ·
Does anyone know how to edit the original post? I've made a typo, Blue comes out of Pin 6, not Pin 10!!


C1349 from the Sat nav goes to C0993 in the back of the screen. Cut the video wires anywhere between here and solder the male RGB cables on, one on each cut end. This gives you 3 cables coming out of C1349 and 3 going back towards C0993 in the dash.

The composite video (Yellow plug) from the reverse camera goes through the RGB converter to make it into a compatible signal.

Then, the cables from the C1349 go on pin 87a on the relays, the RGB converter outputs go on pins 87 on the relays, and the output, to plug C0993, goes on pin 30.

When the relay is off, 87a and 30 are connected, so video from the sat nav computer gets fed into the screen.
When 12V is applied and the relay is turned on, 87 and 30 get connected instead, which feeds the composite signal via the RGB converter into the screen.

It's all a bit difficult to explain, if I still had the rangie I'd have taken much better pictures!

Updated the circuit diagram a bit:

Image


Full sized here:

http://i.imgur.com/xHdm36t.png