of course not!

i have replaced quite a few rear main seals although never yet on a p38. unfortunately dropping the transmission is really the only way to do this job if the engine remains put.

it really is a lot of effort for a job where the part costs much less than a decent steak dinner.

avoid using any engine synthetic oil which tends to dissolve varnish in and around engine seals which can aggravate a seal already on the way out.

 

total agreement. I've replaced several on P38s and never had one leak afterwards. THe only way I can think of a leaky replacement would be poor prep or damage during install.

 

yes, I know this is an old thread...

however, why start a brand new thread?

after an evening of woodstove and liquid courage, I have finally made it to the point of making the post... rear main leaks... must pull engine or drop trans, correct (97 P38, 4.6)?

does anyone have any suggestions on best approach here? I don't have a trans cradle for my jack (yet... it is christmastime.. and new tools are ALWAYS welcome... ), but i DO have an engine hoist (although, not exactly keen on using it). now that i've isolated the oil leaks from the front of the engine... the rear is showing its colors for sure

As always, thank you all for helpful insight... much much much appreciated

-Nate

 

I personally think the trans/transfer case is a PIA. The engine, especially a GEMS, is a doddle to pull out. I can have one out, do some work, and back in, in a day. Coolant bled and driving by mid morning the following day.


Martin

 

i agree with martin for his and other reasons. when you pull the engine out you then have totally unfettered work area to replace any number of engine related gaskets, seals, lifters, rockers etc etc with absolutely no interference or strain on your body. nothing is easier than working on an engine where you can walk around it. as long as you are doing the rear main you might as well fix or replace all the otehr items you suspect will go or already are old and will go before too long.

it costs more to work in this manner but you won't ever have a better opportunity.

 

without a pit or lift.... would not want to struggle under a car with a gear and transferbox... with the vehicle on a lift... I'd never take the engine out for the seal .... way too much things to remove... gearbox is out in say 2-3 hrs

 

Pft, I can remove a GEMS in under 2 hours while still drinking coffee and tossing the ball for the dogs. Bosch takes a bit longer. You also have an excellent chance to clean the engine, bay, all connections and ground points as well as doing basics like plugs and wires while it is out.

THere are far more benefits to engine removal for rear seal and maintenance than fighting under a rig with limited clearance to remove tranny and case.

 

Just out of curiosity, why does a Bosch take longer?

 

probably all between the ears.... but all those electic looms, coolant, airco, oils extra ..... perhaps the V8 is easier in that, I only do diesel

 

No need to drain off the AC, lay the compressor off to the side.
Wiring is so straight forward its funny.
Easier on EAS, but still an easy job to pull a motor.
The Bosch takes a little longer due to the intake.

Martin

 

When I took out my Thor last month my only hassle were the 4 top bolts of the bellhousing but can be overcome by first removing the comlete inlet manifold and the heads first to gain access.
Fabricated my own hoist-eyes by making a strip using the old headbolts and when lifting/pulling the block hoping the torque converter stayed in place. (remove the 4 bolts that hold the flexplate through the inspection holes in the panflanges).
Tony.

 

Unless your rig is castrated, you can undo the motor mounts, lower the engine, raise the EAS manually, and get to the top bellhousing bolts easy. Easier than the bottom ones in fact.
Like I said, it's a doddle.

Martin

 

Well castrated, more or less. My first P38, not familiar with EAS, connecting rod #7 stepped out of the block so a not running engine, bought it as is in Germany.
All I have is common sense, I found a low mile Gems and I swapped the 60D Thor for a 46D Gems and rebuilded it to Thor.
Being not a pro I'm very pleased with a place like this, doing everything step by step and it is a runner now.
In fact, today I got my new licence after being examined by the authorities (import from Germany), so more than one reason for bubbles tonight!
Tony.

 

like I said... I do diesels and I don't think it comes out very well with the coolerpack in place... (think it is longer than a V8?)so guess it needs the airco to be drained... In my case the engine hoist would not go high enough so I had to deflate the front tyres to get it over the bar behind the top of the bumper, but the engine just fits between the metal of the body at the front and the paravan at the rear...

and yes, together with a friend I did take the engine out and disasseble it down to just the bigengine in 3,5 hour..... but smply taking the gearbox/tranny assembly out with the car on a lift and a decent transferboxlift I find much less hassle

 

Since the OP doesn't have a diesel, in fact no body here in the States has a diesel, those issues do not enter into his equation. With the hood in service position the V8s lift out with no interference or issue what so ever.

 

As does a 6 liter LSx.....Easy peasy.

Martin

 

so you're saying any synthetic motor oil (even Mobil1) should be avoided at all costs? what about highmileage stuff?

 

WHo are you talking to and how did this become about dino vs synth?

 

Dyno vs Synthetic
Coils vs EAS
Blah blah blah....

I for one wont run full synthetic in a 4.0/4.6 of this vintage. It's a waste of money. Another thing synthetic does is find leaks after using conventional oil for @12-15 years.
Your call though. End of oil discussion.
If you want to read up on it, use the search function, it's been beat to death already.

Martin