Normal coolant temps should range in the 190-220, with a "just right" generally right around 210F range...that applies to pretty much any vehicle and cooling system for any normal road-going vehicle. I am speaking to my 2010 5.0L, so the specs are potentially slightly different, but would not be greatly different.
Straight from the RAVE manual:
The thermostat allows rapid engine warm-up by preventing coolant flow through the radiator and by limiting coolant flow through the cylinder block when the engine is cold. During warm-up and at engines speeds above approximately 1800 rev/min, a by-pass valve opens to control the coolant flow and pressure, to protect the engine components. When the thermostat opening reaches 6 mm (0.24 in.), the by-pass flow is shut-off. When the thermostat opening exceeds 6 mm (0.24 in.), the radiator coolant flow is further controlled up to the point where the thermostat is fully open. At this point maximum radiator coolant flow is achieved to provide maximum cooling.
On both naturally aspirated and supercharger vehicles, the thermostat begins to open at 88 - 90 °C (190 - 194 °F) and is fully open at 102 °C (216 °F).
If the thermostat doesn't even start to open until 190 then that is a minimum for normal operating temperatures. Fully open means that the car is starting to reach just past optimal temps and the car is starting to react. The way the 5.0L is routed, the thermostat takes the flow our of the engine, through the crossover pipe, and send it back to coolant pump through the engine. As the thermostat opens, it starts closing that pathway and opening up the one that routes coolant through the radiator for cooling purposes. If you are seeing 190 then you are normal. I would bet while I am offroading that I see temps more like 215-220, since the fan can only do so much to pull air through.
Regardless, I've seen you post multiple different topics all related to the same issue. You will get better responses if you consolidate to one post and track everything there. I have already responded in another thread...engine coolant temperature is not a problem for symptoms of lean bank codes. You have a single intake and MAF sensor so where you differ from my 5.0L is that if I got both of those codes, I know for a fact it is something after both of my intakes/MAFs, otherwise I would expect it for one bank only (2 intakes, 2 MAFs). To get a whole-engine code means you are getting too much air, have a vacuum leak, a bad MAF or other sensor, or not enough fuel. Check your fuel trims and see if it is maxing fuel out. Check the PCV system, that can be a pretty common air leak. Clean/replace the MAF. Check for air leaks/loose hose clamps. Could be the fuel filters or pumps. Possibly the O2 sensors but those are further down the list. Search the codes you are getting...those are generic codes that any suggestions for any engine are valid causes and fixes. This could be something very simple as a loose/broken hose, or something much more complicated...start with the easy stuff first.
