[keeko785]

Anyone shed any more light on this issue? I did the swap (took my bulb out and put it in the other side) Now both sides are dead. I then put the bulb back into the original side and both sides are still dead)

I purchased new bulbs... new bulbs didn't fix it.

With out buying 1 of each new parts what can I do?

I am thinking about ripping the entire setup out and putting an aftermarket Xenon system in with a D2S setup.

 

[W84IT]

Both of you have bad igniters.

They are basically just a step up transformer, but they operate at VERY high frequency. They will run forever if made properly . The problem develops if there are any small air bubbles in the epoxy and shielding inside the unit. This happens during the manufacturing process. Eventually this breaks down and causes the transformer to short out (total failure), or to have startup problems (as you are having)

Simply change the transformer (ignitor) and problem solved. I would always change it with a new one. They are only 40-50 bucks new, and used ones seem to be going for almost that amount.

Whats the part number and where can I purchase this ignitor for $40-$50?

 

[03rangiemark]

I never thought of a balast /ignitor called a flyback transformer before. The only place I've seen a flyback transformer used is in a T.V. (CRT type). It is a type of transformer, so I guess you could call it a flyback if you want. Or an ignition coil, step-up transformer, or....
Funny how they fail more in cold conditions when they degrade.

 

[Moto One]

Both of you have bad igniters.

They are basically just a step up transformer, but they operate at VERY high frequency. They will run forever if made properly . The problem develops if there are any small air bubbles in the epoxy and shielding inside the unit. This happens during the manufacturing process. Eventually this breaks down and causes the transformer to short out (total failure), or to have startup problems (as you are having)

Simply change the transformer (ignitor) and problem solved. I would always change it with a new one. They are only 40-50 bucks new, and used ones seem to be going for almost that amount.

Thanks for your insight. Do I need to change the ignitor for just the side that is having problems or do I need to change the other side as well? Do you have any knowledge of why me headlights are starting to fade/discolor to more of a whiteish yellow from the blue? Thanks a lot.

Just to let everyone know, I have changed the transformer (brand new) problem with not firing up still happening. After double checking every connections, I going back to basics, checking and cleaning all grounds, and checking the continuity of the wires (stretch and check).

Mark

 

[spizzi]

For the sake of continuity, here is a thread the shows the part number (BMW might I add) for the "ignitor" (wire unit that connects to the back of the xenon bulb - not the xenon control unit/module/ballast). http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-l322-mark-iii/31427-hid-xenon-ignitor.html

I am running into a goofy/faulty passenger side xenon that most recently has decided not to fire up even after 10 flicks of the switch (whereas before it would ignite after about 5 flicks or after I shut the vehicle off and start it back up). What I did notice is symptoms similar to what others have said -- it WILL ignite after the vehicle has warmed up and been driven for about 10 minutes or more.

I have gone through the procedure of removing my modular wrap-around grill guard, side lights, grill, headlights (both sides for testing purposes), and air intake box. The vehicle is ready for swap out testing - I have already swapped the metal xenon control units, tested (still same problem, same side). Then swapped the xenon bulbs, tested (still same problem, same side). So my last test in the process of elimination is swapping out the ignitor harness. Fingers crossed.

 

[LEBoyd]

I have been kept busy the last few day, but do have the pics I took. I will try to post them this weekend. It is not 'much' more than removing the glass. But I can tell you that if you swap the 'ballast/focus/ecu' on the back and the bulb, then this should be the problem. The ignitor...

I searched through the thread and never saw the photos. Did you ever get a chance to get those up (maybe on a different thread)?

Both of my low beams are dim/dull. What part should I focus on to repair this? (I might just do the 08 upgrade anyway, but interested in your input)

 

[nsxxtreme]

What happens if I have 12 volts right at the ignitor (Red plug on the back of the bulb?

Both bulbs don't work and I have 12 volts on the center pin at the bulb. I bought 2 new light bulbs and both don't work but my voltage is still good.

Ummm.....I would NOT try an measure the voltage off of one of these. Very few multimeters are capable of measuring the voltage that comes out of one of these. You are likely to burn up your test equipment and possibly shock yourself.

 

[LEBoyd]

As I mentioned in a previous post on this thread, my headlights are far from bright (on low beam). In fact, they're just barely acceptable (on bright, they're great because they're using the Halogen). I've noticed when I'm in the garage at home the LH side very slightly flickers (RH is steady), which is not noticeable at night or other times.

I think the both bulbs need to be replaced. However, at $150 each I'd rather not replace them if they don't need to be replaced. Considering this thread, it seems that since the lights do immediately come on the other parts (ignitor, etc.) are okay.

Any comments or suggestions?

 

[03rangiemark]

I wish I say say with some confidence that it's the bulbs, but it's only my best guess.
As long as they're starting & getting voltage to run, I'd think that everything else is in order.

I know what you're saying though - before laying out big bucks for a replacement bulb, it'd be good to be a little more sure.
You could buy some of the cheaper replacements, but from what I hear, they don't last as long.

There are cheaper sources than the dealership for top quality ones though.
Just get one to start with, and try it in each side.

 

[LEBoyd]

There are cheaper sources than the dealership for top quality ones though.

You mean like one from Atlantic British ($149 each)? I've bought a lot from them and they've always be great folks. Are you saying this don't last long?

 

[LEBoyd]

Well I purchase sylvania bulbs from auto parts. Replaced them yesterday drove tonight and they were great. Thanks for help.

 

[Rover.BC]

Hi all, reviving an old thread here to see if anyone managed to find the culprit that causes this... or perhaps I have a different issue. I've searched the forums but haven't found the answer, please point me in the direction if it exists.

So I have the common issue of the passenger side dip beam lighting up and then going out after a period of time. I fitted new lamps, this didn't solve it, I removed the light units and switched the ballasts and the issue remained on the passenger side. So I switched the ignitors over thinking this must be the issue but it continues to go out on the passenger side.

I doubt it is a connection issue as it will reignite if I turn them off and on again, almost like a heat issue? Could this be a ground issue? Any Ideas are welcomed.

Thanks all.
I have a 2004 (4.4 BMW) L322.

 

[0101charlim]

Hi all, reviving an old thread here to see if anyone managed to find the culprit that causes this... or perhaps I have a different issue. I've searched the forums but haven't found the answer, please point me in the direction if it exists.

So I have the common issue of the passenger side dip beam lighting up and then going out after a period of time. I fitted new lamps, this didn't solve it, I removed the light units and switched the ballasts and the issue remained on the passenger side. So I switched the ignitors over thinking this must be the issue but it continues to go out on the passenger side.

I doubt it is a connection issue as it will reignite if I turn them off and on again, almost like a heat issue? Could this be a ground issue? Any Ideas are welcomed?

Thanks all.
I have a 2004 (4.4 BMW) L322.

Hope everything works out there.
I recommend taking it to the mechanic for more info, pretty sure they can look at it for cheap.