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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
I just wanted to start this thread to further help with the Bi-Xenon headlight issues. There is an EXCELLENT thread here started by RRPhil. It shows very accurately how to remove the headlight assembly for service and test. However, I have seen several errors in various posts as to the cause of certain problems with the headlights and parts common names. I will be posting an additional repair procedure over the next couple of days with pictures on how to repair headlights with intermittent start and ones that are not fixed by replacing the Ballast.

This is the igniter for the Xenon bulb. [attachment=0:1jnd5fhm]4294967240.jpg[/attachment:1jnd5fhm] Back in the day, this was also referred to as a flyback transformer. It boosts low voltages to VERY high voltages (although very low current... if you got bit by it, it would smart, but not really hurt you) THIS is the ONLY place that high voltage exists in the system. This unit is inside the headlight assembly. It is also the cause of many of the failure to ignite for two or three tries AND dead light problems. It is also used in Mercedes, Audi, VW and Mazda (maybe others). They retail for around $70.

Someone may need to correct me on this (I am not close to my RAVE at the moment), but I do not think LR offers this as a separate part, but there are many sources for it. Anyhow, I will show you how to get the part out and back in to your headlamp and stop all those intermittent and dead headlamp problems.

I will also try to offer my assistance on any sound system/upgrades/electronics issues that some owners have. I own a distributor/retail company that offers upgrades for several european cars (LR included). However, I am not currently a sponsor, so I will not advertise here ... only offer help.

Stay tuned for those pictures and guide to headlamp service over the next couple of days!
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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VERY interesting.

In the light (sorry) of what you've said I looked back at the manual and can see now that it is referring to the 'control module' and 'igniter' as different components whereas I'd previously assumed that they were the same thing i.e. what everyone else appears to call the ballast.

I think knowledge of this extra component (the igniter) buried in the headlamp unit could explain a lot of the issues that people have been having. I look forward to seeing your description of how to replace it.

I can confirm that the 'igniter' is not available as a separate part from Land Rover (screenshot from Microcat below).

Phil
 

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This is definitely a thread I have to keep on my watch list since I just had the entire lighting system on the right side of my car replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All of my replacement parts should be here monday or tuesday, so will post all of the pics then. Posted the original just a few days early, apologize for the delay..
 

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WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!

And I think it's rather gracious of you offer helpful information in your introduction. Naturally it's not the norm, by the nature of forums which most do not explore until dictated by a failure.

I hope you enjoy the forum as much as the rest of us do.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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There may have been a supersession on the part number (headlight unit) recently, within the last 2 months. That could be due to an improvement in the build, or more likely at the moment, a new supplier.
 

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Where was this last week...

I just replace the internal parts/wiring in one of my lights. I got the harness along with ballast on ebay ($50), Taking the head light apart to replace was a bit of a puzzle, but is in fact is very easy.

!. Remove the head light from car/Rove you'll have to remove the grill, side marker light for access to the lower two screws.
2. once the light assembly is out, you will have to remove the glass lens: this is held on by a number of spring clips, be carful when lifting out the glass to protect the gasket.
3. Now that the glass is removed, removing the plastic inner: there are three connectors areas two on one side, then it will tilt and slip out.
4. The next part is the tricky part: the lighting system is mounted on three moveable (adjustors, stepper motor) points. But they are fixed by snap ball/sockets. They all have a small lock tab that is easy to unlatch with a small flat blade screw driver. (I only had to undo two of them to get to the screws, that hold the ballast in place, and to make room to remove the harness.

Make a note to your self the direction that the plugs go so that you don't have to remove and rotate them ( I know some one that had to go thur this).

When routing the wiring, make sure that they are clear of the assembly so that they do not wear or interfere with the auto leveling

Took all of about an hour to figure out on my own.

Mark.
 

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I was just wondering if you replaced this part yet. I have had the same problem for sometime and for the last year have been driving without a drivers side light. I did do some investigation and used a voltage detector, basicly a Fluke Pen to check for voltage at both bulbs. I found that i do not have voltage on the drivers side therefore I believe this is my problem. Can I get to the igniter by just removing the lens clips or is it more involved than that. I did find that using the voltage tester was alot easier than swapping bulbs to tell if the igniter is working although swapping bulbs is not a major pain and would be the only way to check the bulb if your igniter is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have been kept busy the last few day, but do have the pics I took. I will try to post them this weekend. It is not 'much' more than removing the glass. But I can tell you that if you swap the 'ballast/focus/ecu' on the back and the bulb, then this should be the problem. The ignitor...
 

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Just a note: Since changing every thing, and have had a reoccurrence of the the dead light problem, I have notice that if once the dead light does light, it will work all day/night, but if I do not use the lights for a couple of days (parked at airport/or home say) then it will fail to light at first, but after a few (up to 10 times or more) of turning the lights off an on the dead light will ignite and then continue to work. So now I'm thinking that there is a capacitor that is leaking down and not holding voltage... Just a guess.

Also I have rotated bulbs, changed external controller (silver box attached to the back exterior of the light housing) and internal ballast/wiring harness. But there was (or is) any thing saying that the used parts I pick up are in any better condition then the ones that I had in the first place.

I can tell you that every time that I have dissembled the lights and reassembled them they work just fine, but then will act up again. In fact just posting that I have fixed the problem here, seems to jinks the fix and the light will act up again.

But I have found it rewarding to have taken the lights apart, an put them back to gather and have them work (even for a short time)...

Mark.
 

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Moto One said:
Just a note: Since changing every thing, and have had a reoccurrence of the the dead light problem, I have notice that if once the dead light does light, it will work all day/night, but if I do not use the lights for a couple of days (parked at airport/or home say) then it will fail to light at first, but after a few (up to 10 times or more) of turning the lights off an on the dead light will ignite and then continue to work. So now I'm thinking that there is a capacitor that is leaking down and not holding voltage... Just a guess.

Also I have rotated bulbs, changed external controller (silver box attached to the back exterior of the light housing) and internal ballast/wiring harness. But there was (or is) any thing saying that the used parts I pick up are in any better condition then the ones that I had in the first place.

I can tell you that every time that I have dissembled the lights and reassembled them they work just fine, but then will act up again. In fact just posting that I have fixed the problem here, seems to jinks the fix and the light will act up again.

But I have found it rewarding to have taken the lights apart, an put them back to gather and have them work (even for a short time)...

Mark.

I find it interesting that you mention this. I have recently found myself encountering the same exact problem with the driver side headlight. I swapped the bulbs and the problem still exists. Just like you described, it does not work only if the vehicle sits for a prolonged period of time. I have to turn it on and of several times until it works. At the same time, it works perfectly when I use the lights numerous times throughout the day. An interesting side note though...I have noticed that the bulb becomes much bluer after it finally ignites. It does not make sense to me, because the side that does not have a problem is a little more white/yellow rather than blue, and these xenon bulbs should have a blueish tint to them (stock Phillips 4300k).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Both of you have bad igniters.

They are basically just a step up transformer, but they operate at VERY high frequency. They will run forever if made properly . The problem develops if there are any small air bubbles in the epoxy and shielding inside the unit. This happens during the manufacturing process. Eventually this breaks down and causes the transformer to short out (total failure), or to have startup problems (as you are having)

Simply change the transformer (ignitor) and problem solved. I would always change it with a new one. They are only 40-50 bucks new, and used ones seem to be going for almost that amount.
 

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Cartronics said:
Both of you have bad igniters.

They are basically just a step up transformer, but they operate at VERY high frequency. They will run forever if made properly . The problem develops if there are any small air bubbles in the epoxy and shielding inside the unit. This happens during the manufacturing process. Eventually this breaks down and causes the transformer to short out (total failure), or to have startup problems (as you are having)

Simply change the transformer (ignitor) and problem solved. I would always change it with a new one. They are only 40-50 bucks new, and used ones seem to be going for almost that amount.
Thanks for your insight. Do I need to change the ignitor for just the side that is having problems or do I need to change the other side as well? Do you have any knowledge of why me headlights are starting to fade/discolor to more of a whiteish yellow from the blue? Thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You only need to change the one that refuses to start.

My guess on color change would be that the voltage from the transformer is now lower than it should be, which would change the color of the light.
 

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So I narrowed mine down to bad ballast. Does anyone have a good supplier for this part. The only new one I found was at Atlantic British and it is $450. I did find a used one on ebay for $125 but it seems like this could be the problem others are having when trying to fix this problem, getting parts that are not fully operational. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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What happens if I have 12 volts right at the ignitor (Red plug on the back of the bulb?

Both bulbs don't work and I have 12 volts on the center pin at the bulb. I bought 2 new light bulbs and both don't work but my voltage is still good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have not bothered to measure the running voltage, but it should be a few thousand volts (very low amperage though).
 

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I have this exact problem, I replaced my control box on bottom of headlamp but the fault remains, swapping bits left and right makes no difference and I believe it is this ignitor/ballast/transformer part.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a new part?
 

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I too am having this problem, my passenger side doesn't ignite every time and it is more yelloish than the driver's side...

I'm about to do a 2008 conversion though so I'm not too concerned with fixing it although it would be nice to be able to resell the factory headlights...

Where can I get the ignitor, I'll give that a try first.


Thanks,

Mike
 
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