Hiya,

The first thing you need to look at are your front flexible hoses.

Sometimes the reinforcing inside them collapses & traps the fluid in the caliper forcing the pads to lock onto the disc, in theory, acting as a one way valve.

If you give them a good wiggle it might free enough fluid out to release the pads.

Hope this helps.

 

I will check the front flexible hoses to see if this is the culprit. My concern is that as the truck was being put on the flatbed for towing, it appeared that BOTH front wheels were locked. Wouldn't it be unlikely to happen in both flexible hoses simultaneously? Or is it such that if one locks up then both wheels would APPEAR to be locked up because of full time 4WD?

 

"Or is it such that if one locks up then both wheels would APPEAR to be locked up because of full time 4WD?"
No, this wouldn't happen as the differential in the axle is 'open', that is, it does not lock, so the front wheels can turn independently.

As you have the manual that is a good start. I appreciate it doesn't cover faults, but it goes into some detail, from which it's down to you (or me) to draw conclusions.
Like you, I'm not certain that two hose faults would happen on both wheels, so I'd be looking for a single fault that naturally affected both wheels on one axle.

However, the first thing to do is to get the front end in the air, with both wheels off the ground, and in fact probably with both wheels off the car (loosen the wheel nuts while the wheels are on the ground).
Now you can confirm that both wheels are locked by the brakes.
Assuming this is so, looking at the calipers you can see two bleed nipples on each, this is because the front axle has two braking systems, which the manual calls the Power and the Hydrostatic circuits. Read the manual for more details. Note that only one of these circuits extends to the rear axle, so you can be pretty certain your fault is in the 'front axle only' system. By releasing one or other of the nipples on a single caliper you can release fluid, and thus the pressure on the brakes. You may have to release fluid from the same nipple on the other caliper. This will at least allow you to move the car around.

You have commented on the ABS light, and that it doesn't go out until the speed exceeds 5 mph. That is true, but it also indicates a fault before then. If no fault exists, when you switch on the ignition, without starting the engine, the light will glow, darken for about 1/2 a second, then glow again. If a fault is recorded the light does not darken.
If yours is in this state you will need some Diagnostic kit to read what the reported fault is. This may not help you anyway, so don't let the absence of Diagnostic kit stop you investigating.

If you do free off the wheels I'd THINK about removing the fuse or relay that powers the ABS pump, because that will probably disable the pressurised system, especially if you then pump the pedal for 30 times to release all stored pressure. Again, details are in the manual. You may find the car driveable like this, at the expense of requiring a strong brake effort from you. Do experiment carefully. Whatever you do, don't be tempted to start the engine and put it in Drive while the rear wheels are on the ground, because here the 4WD will kick in, drive the rear wheels, and push the car off the stands.
Most embarrassing!!

Good Luck, hopefully reading the manual will clear up any points you don't understand from my comments.

Edited to add my thanks to Col for pointing out my mistake about two bleed nipples per caliper. I can only think I was recalling another car when I wrote that. From the subsequent posts this mistake of mine did not cause too much distraction.
Cheers.

 

hello,
could it be a front diff failure?
locking front brakes, both at the same time is somehow unusual...
of course nothing to do with the body shop
regards, korkut

 

.

looking at the calipers you can see two bleed nipples on each,

Not sure this is right I have a pair of new front calipers in my garage and they only have one nipple on each and I'm sure there is only one type of caliper fitted which is a two piston caliper although you can get upgraded one's which are Four or possibilty Six piston but I don't think these are o.e equipment.

this is because the front axle has two braking systems,

The two systems for the front are controlled from the brake booster unit and you still only have one brake pipe going to each caliper, the front and rear brakes are also on seperate circuits this is a legal requirement as a saftey feature so if the front fail you still have rear brakes and visa versa, If there is residual pressure in the front brake pipes holding the brakes applied I would think it is possible that a valve has failed in the booster unit but again as they are seperate pipes to the front wheels it could mean two valves had failed at the same time which i suppose is possible. As Chas suggested undo the bleed nipples to release any pressure to see if it lets the brakes off, if it dos'e then i would think the fault is the hoses/pipes or the booster unit if it dosen't you need to look elsewhere.
Check to see if the calipers are seized on the guide pin's or possibily the pistons siezed.
Also as suggested could be a siezed diff.

Cheers

 

Prior to having it towed, as I sat in the middle of the intersection trying to figure out what to do, I tried going in reverse and forward, and it felt like both axles were pushing, so I still feel like it is brake related. I turned it off and let it sit a while and then started it and it went about 2 feet before it was locked up again. It appears that the first thing to do is put the front end up and see which wheel will spin if either, and see if the pads are locked on to the rotor. This should tell me what to look for next. Unfortunately I cannot get back to where I had to leave it until saturday.

Thanks for the ideas, and I will post the results once I crack into it.

 

Ok getting back to figuring this out-

Jacked up the vehicle, and both wheels spun free at slow speeds. Ruled out any differential issues, as well as any brake line or caliper issues. This issue is definitely related to the ABS.

First of all, as soon as the wheels rotate faster than the absolute slowest speed, brake force is applied through the ABS to the front wheels only. There appears to be some issue with the wheel sensors or the ABS ECM ability to process the signal. As soon as the wheel rotates, brake pressure is applied. Everything else appears normal, no lights on dash, or other abnormal activity.

Immediately before this happened, the vehicle had some bodywork done, and the shop had disconnected and re connected the battery while doing the work. Is it possible that in the process of that, somehow a situation was created that is causing the ABS ECM to act haywire?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

There appears to be some issue with the wheel sensors or the ABS ECM ability to process the signal. As soon as the wheel rotates, brake pressure is applied.

Hi
This may be is a bit of a long shot but could it possibily be a traction control problem and the ecu thinks you have wheel spin and when you spin the wheel faster it starts to apply the brakes to slow the spinning wheel down. I'm sure you can actualy disable the ETC. for purposes of brake testing on rolling roads etc. may be a stupid idea but just a thought.
I know you said they dis-connected the battery to do some bodywork did they by any chance do any mig welding? as the may have caused a spike and fried the ECU just another thought.

Cheers

 

Was able to set a "traction failure" message which allowed the front wheels to spin free with no more lockup. Dropped the vehicle expecting it to roll, and the vehicle immediately locked up, this time the rear brakes were applied. After resetting the battery, traction failure message goes away. Still cannot get vehicle to roll. For some reason, traction control seems to be applied as soon as there is wheel rotation. Checked all wheel sensors, they appear to be correctly inserted and hooked up, and the fact that the issue is moving from front to back kind of rules out a wheel sensor falure, I think. Does anyone have an idea what procedure I should use to isolate this problem, and how should I go about thesting the ABS ECM to see if it is causing traction control to go haywire?

 

no way to yank a fuse for now?
i know you can pull the abs fuse for offroading.......
if you can yank a fuse, then you can spend some time looking for problems, and still have a working vehicle. may need a reset though, hard to tell without knowing whta faults if any it has thrown.

martin

 

The procedure for disabling the Traction Control for '99 on vehicles, and this time I've copied it from the WM to avoid my mistakes!!

4 Wheel Electronic Traction Control (ETC) Disable Procedure
1. Switch on ignition.
2. Press brake pedal 10 times within 5 seconds of switching the ignition on.
3. Check that the traction control light on the instrument panel has stayed on.
4. The message centre will display Traction Failure and give an audible signal.
5. The traction control will be switched on automatically when the vehicle reaches 7 km/h.

As it resets itself when above 7 km/hr this is only useful for testing, not as a temporary run around.
It doesn't find the actual fault, of course, just helps to pin it down.

It is ironic that the WM also says:

ETC is inhibited when the brakes are applied. When the ETC feature is operating the ’TC’ warning lamp in the instrument pack will illuminate for a minimum of two seconds and a single audible warning will sound.

So if the ETC is coming in, it may be only after the brakes have been released by the driver.
I wonder if this is a clue, there might be some notice taken of one of the brake pedal switches (possibly that is how the ECU knows the driver has applied the brakes). If this signal wasn't reaching the ABS ECU perhaps the inhibition doesn't happen.

Clutching at straws here, sorry.
Good Luck

 

I am grasping at straws here too. I can't seem to get my arms around what is going on with this vehicle. Here is what I know:

Even with the ABS fuses and relays removed, the vehicle will not move. There appears to be a disabling of the power, or a "locking" of the brakes when you try to move. It is somewhat erratic. But it is definitely coming from the abs through the brake booster and applying the brakes. I have checked all the wheel sensors, and they are all seated correctly and connected.

There does not appear to be a major failure of a component such as transfer case, transmission, axle or otherwise. When all 4 wheels are jacked up, I can spin the wheels freely. Nothing appears to be seized up or broken. However, when I engage the gear and try to move, everything appears to lock up.

The brakes appear to be normal, except for the ABS being applied immediately upon any rotation of the front wheels.

Is there something haywire in the ECU? Has anyone seen an issue like this? I am completely stumped at this point. Something is inhibiting the engagement of the drivetrain correctly and causing the ABS and traction control to engage immediately upon any tire rotation. I am really drawing a blank on this, so if anyone has ideas, please let me know.

 

not exactly the safest thing, but have you tried having it on 4 axle stands and then putting it in gear?

martin

 

You seem to be convinced this is a ABS issue applying the brakes when you engage drive but the ABS dosen't apply the brakes it releases them when it senses a wheel is about to lock to prevent it locking up and it would mean the ABS is working totaly opposite to how it should.

Are you 100% sure it is the brakes locked on and not your transferbox or transmission locking up? With the car on the floor transmission in neutral, ignition off and handbrake released can you push the car forwards or backwards a few feet.

Cheers

 

You seem to be convinced this is a ABS issue applying the brakes when you engage drive but the ABS dosen't apply the brakes it releases them when it senses a wheel is about to lock to prevent it locking up and it would mean the ABS is working totaly opposite to how it should.
Are you 100% sure your transferbox is not locking up? With the car on the floor transmission in neutral, ignition off and handbrake released can you push the car forwards or backwards a few feet.

i am thinking along the same lines myself....
it is ok in neutral, but locks up when in gear. sounds like a t/case or tranny issue to me. being permanent 4wd, maybe try to remove the front d/shaft?

martin

 

Ok Maybe it is a transfer case issue. I jacked the car up on all 4's and tried it in drive. The back wheels spin but not much. There are no abnormailites on the message centre.
The clutch at the back of the transfer case is spinning the driveshaft, but not very fast. There does not appear to be any torgue being applied to the wheels. But nothing is seized up, and it appears that some power is passing through the transfer case. With
the wheels up in the air, the axles can both spin free, but if I put the vehicle in neutral and try to push it it is locked up. If I have the front wheels up and the key is on, the wheels spin free and then the ABS locks them up.. You can tell because the booster is applying pressure through the line. You can feel it.

How come with the wheels up and the vehicle in neutral both axles spin free? Isn't the drive train supposed to be engaged at that point? At least to the point that spinning the wheels spins the driveshafts back to the transfer case. When you are in neutral aren't you just disengaging the transmission? What am I missing here? Seems very perplexing the way it is behaving. If anyone can explain how it should be behaving, it may help.

Thanks much for the responses.

 

OK, Responding mainly to these comments:
"How come with the wheels up and the vehicle in neutral both axles spin free? Isn't the drive train supposed to be engaged at that point? At least to the point that spinning the wheels spins the driveshafts back to the transfer case. When you are in neutral aren't you just disengaging the transmission? What am I missing here? Seems very perplexing the way it is behaving. "

With wheels up, spinning one wheel by hand MAY not spin the driveshaft (UK propshaft) back to the transfer case.
As the axle differential is open, if the driveshaft doesn't move for some reason, as you spin one wheel by hand the other whell will spin in the opposite direction. That is simply a natural mechanical reaction.

When the main gearbox is in Neutral, the engine is disconnected from the output shaft of the main gearbox, and thus also disconnected from the input shaft of the Transfer Box. However, both axles are still connected to the output shafts of the Transfer Box. The rear driveshaft (UK propshaft) is a direct mechanical connection, the front drive shaft is via the Viscous Coupling.

Moving on, I have read about peculiar effects noted if the handbrake was jamming on.

That's all for now.

Without detailing WHY it might have started to do this, let's just say that one or both of the shoes in the handbrake were grabbing the drum. At least one of the shoes will be 'leading', and thus a self servo action is built-in, this means that as the shoe grips the drum, the rotation of the drum pulls the shoe into tighter contact, effectively increasing the braking effect, and under light inputs, jamming the drum.
Assuming we are talking light inputs here, (engine only at tickover, or vehicle being pushed by hand), the effect on the rear driveshaft is to stop it, dead. If both rear wheels on the ground, and have grip, the axle differential is ineffective, so both wheels stop. If the rear wheels are in the air, then rotating one wheel by hand will cause the other to reverse, as I've already described.
Although the front driveshaft doesn't have a straight mechanical connection, the VC coupling is strong enough to make the front driveshaft very difficult to turn, thus the (jammed on) handbrake will appear to brake the front wheels as well.

This could explain the 'brakes jammed on' experience while driving, BUT, it doesn't satisfy the action reported here " ... the wheels spin free and then the ABS locks them up.. You can tell because the booster is applying pressure through the line. You can feel it. ".
There is no connection between handbrake operation and ABS operation, or hand brake and Traction Control operation.

As a matter of interest, according to the WM, when TC kicks in a warning lamp and audible beep is given. In the fault conditions, when we 'think' TC is being activated, do you get the audible warning?

I'll say one thing, that's a very special bodyshop you have there!!
Being cynical, did you note the mileage reading when you took it in, and when you picked it up? Was there an opportunity for someone to have an illicit drive? This still wouldn't explain the fault, but might get round the mental stumbling block of "it's only had bodywork done, how can a mechanical defect arise?".

That's all for now.

 

I just had a thought. :shock: :shock:

You must get a copy of RAVE if you don't have it already. It can be downloaded from the Green Oval. If you can't read the Workshop manual then don't attempt any of this, go see your mechanic, or find someone who knows what they're doing. Sorry to be so Blunt. :wink:

1. Put car in neutral and remove battery, this will completely disable ABS/ETC.
2. Try to give it a push, if it moves Reconnect battery, I have known of gearboxes that Jam with power from one end but not the other. If the car moves you have proved one part of the Gearbox/Diff Theory.
3. With Ignition/Accessories Off, Disconnect ABS/ETC ECU behind glove box. This will eliminate any faults being recorded.
4. Disconnect Brake booster power circuits. This will prove whether it has anything to do with the brakes.
5. CAREFULLY Start car and try to move forward, CAUTION you will have very limited braking, then try to reverse. If car now moves you have proved there is a problem with the brakes.
6. Don't forget to Reconnect Booster first then ABS ECU otherwise you will log a Fault.

If not it will likely be a transfer case problem. As said before it could be something as simple as a Sticking handbrake.

Stu

 

Thinking about all this one sure way of checking if it is a ABS/ETC fault is to remove the brake calipers from the disc/rotor I don't mean dis-connect the hydraulics just remove calipers and tie clear of disc/rotors refit the wheels and then make sure the truck is in neutral not park with handbrake off and see if you can push the truck backwards and forwards a lot of work and bit extreme but will eliminate the footbrake side one way or another. Would advise you place a piece of wood between the brake pads to simulate the disc/rotors just in case the brakes do apply this will stop the pistons coming out to far.If the truck dosen't moves surely this will discount the ABS/ETC theory . If it dose move o.k then you are right and it is the ABS/ETC causing the fault

If the truck dosen't move then remove the front and rear propshafts and try to move the truck back and fore again if it moves that eliminates the axles and diffs.

Next refit just the rear propshaft and try to move truck again, if it dosen't move then remove rear propshaft from transfercase end and remove handbrake drum refit propshaft and try to move vehicle back and fore again if it moves to me that indicates a Handbrake fault, if it dosen't move again to me that points to a transfercase/gearbox problem.

That is one hell of a lot of work and if you try it you deserve a medal but it's the best that I can think of at the minute as a process of elimination.

Hopefuly someone else will come up with a far easier solution.

Not being patronising but please IF YOU DO ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE VEHICLE WITH NO BRAKES CONNECTED PLEASE DO IT BY PUSHING IT, NOT DRIVING IT, AND MAKE SURE THERE IS A SECOND PERSON WITH SOMETHING TO THROW UNDER A WHEEL IF NECCESSARY

Cheers

 

Here is what I know so far:

First of all, thanks to everyone responding to this issue, trying to help with the diagnosis. I have never seen anything so perplexing in 30 years of automobiles.

Both axles spin free, with the front set or rear set in the air, the diffs will spin free in park, neutral or drive.

There does not appear to be a broken drivetrain, as I started the vehicle and drove forward about a foot and a half today before it locked up again. The lockup appears to be traction control related.

Checked the parking brake for a jammed cable, or shoes locked on the diff, and neither is the case. The E-brake does not work at all. With the wheels in the air, the rear axle spins free. If you apply the brakes the axle stops immediately. Without brakes the axle spins. So the E-brake is a non factor.

Disabled the traction control per a previous post, tapping brakes 10 times in 5 seconds. Traction Control light stayed on and "traction failure" was on the message centre. Put vehicle in drive and tried to move it, and it was locked up. Disabling traction control did not affect it. Also removed all ABS fuses and relays, so as to disable the ABS, message centre showing "ABS Fault" and tried to move the vehicle but it was locked.

Does anyone have any ideas where to look next?

 

FIRST THING - Have a good strong Coffee or Tea, and Relax, you sound a little stressed. :thumb:

Do you have the whole axle off the ground? If so then the opposite wheel will spin and not necessarily turn the driveshaft, This will only prove that the front and Rear Diffs are working, you need to turn the Driveshaft.

With the TRANSFER IN NEUTRAL by inserting fuse 11, Jack one side of each axle at the same time. Turn one of the lifted wheels by Hand. If everything is working correctly then the other wheel should spin as well.

If it was an open centre diff as in a Discovery the other wheel would spin in the opposite direction. The RangeRover uses a Viscous Coupling which allows the front and rear driveshafts to spin at SLIGHTLY different speeds, to eliminate WindUP.

I would really find it hard to believe there is a braking problem, unless the ECU is completely Fried. Sounds very much like a broken transfer box/centre diff problem.

Stu

 

""Disabled the traction control per a previous post, tapping brakes 10 times in 5 seconds. Traction Control light stayed on and "traction failure" was on the message centre. "
OK, I double checked, the light and message is the expected outcome.

"Put vehicle in drive and tried to move it, and it was locked up. ... "
Hmmm, were the brakes released before you went through he 'Disable TC' procedure?
Clearly, having disabled TC, the system is programmed NOT to apply the brakes until speed exceeds 7 km/hr.
NOTE - I'll come back to this, even though the TC is disabled, the system is still monitoring vehicle speed (via the wheel sensors).

"Also removed all ABS fuses and relays, so as to disable the ABS, .... tried to move the vehicle but it was locked."
This was unexpected, but it occurs to me now that there would be pressure from the accumulator which could be used by the system to apply the brakes. Perhaps as well as disabling the ABS by removal of fuses, the system also needs de-pressurising, as per the manual:

1. Switch off ignition.
2. Operate the brake pedal 30 times. Pedal travel will increase slightly and reduced resistance will be felt as pressure decreases.
3. Wait for 60 seconds, press the brake pedal four more times. This procedure will ensure that all pressure is evacuated from the system.

I am uneasy about letting a known failure, of the E-brake, go by without resolution, but I do recognise that this may be because I have a manual gearbox, and thus use the E-brake whenever I park, and for hill starts, etc.
You, along with 99% of other drivers with an automatic gearbox, probably just use the Park position when parking, and the torque converter slippage for hill starts.
The E-brake may have failed because someone put it on, then drove away without releasing it, and the shoes have become badly worn. Anyway, let's agree that until further investigation, the E-brake isn't causing the current problem. I'll leave you to decide whether to remove the rear drive shaft and drum to check the situation.

Almost going back to basics, if the ECU had been damaged by a welding spike then I'd suggest you wouldn't have got the vehicle out of the bodyshop or compound. Just double check that, had you used the brakes BEFORE the time when the vehicle seized up?

Assuming you had, and assuming the ECU is undamaged, it is making a correct response from the sensor inputs.
On start up, the ECU monitors all sensors for being connected, them monitors all sensors are giving an output. When these outputs show a speed of more than ~5 mph the ABS says 'Ready for use', and darkens the ABS light on the fascia.
In this case the ABS is seeing all the sensors are connected (no error message), but almost immediately records a speed of greater than ~5 mph, AND STRAIGHTAWAY seeing a wheel speed discrepancy that causes it to apply the brakes.
Refer back to the NOTE I made earlier, even though the TC was disabled, if the speed was sensed to exceed 7 km/h the TC would come back in operation.

Two 'test' suggestions.
Pull the ABS sensors out by 1/4", as this should disable speed sensing. While pulling the sensors, do a visual check for any obvious wiring damage.
Whether you do all four, or one axle pair then the other axle pair, is up to you. After easing each pair or all four out, try the drive test. Probably it wll be fine to test with axles in the air, wheels off, using the engine to spin the shafts, but try a manual spin of the hubs if you think it will help.

At this point I'd expect some error message, but I'd also expect the brakes not to be applied, because the speed is never sensed as being over 7 km/h. However, this is a bit of unknown territory, we don't know whether, if there is no wheel sensor output from the front axle (due to the withdrawn sensors), but there is wheel sensor output from the rear wheel sensors, the TC may try to match speeds by braking the rear wheels. You will just have to try this and see.

If the brakes don't operate, completely remove each sensor, look down the hole and poke the toothed reluctor ring with a screwdriver.
I've recalled that another poster found a reluctor ring broken off, when he went to scrape rust off with a screwdriver poked down the hole normally filled by the ABS sensor. IIRC, in his case the effect was to trigger the ABS on unexpected occasions.

Cheers.

 

OK it appears that I may be narrowing this down finally.

I was able to drive the vehicle yesterday, which has helped me diagnose this issue. The issue appears to be in the front differential. The question is, what is causing the problem, and how should I approach a repair?

Over the last weekend, since the issue began, I have been unable to move the vehicle, focusing on a variety of possible problems. With the vehicle on jack stands everything appeared to spin fine in the front, but if you tried to drive the vehicle, it was locked up. Yesterday, I started the vehicle and tried to drive it and it went two feet and locked up. I put it in reverse, and it freed itself and I was able to go forward and backward with full power. Everything appeared to work correctly. Went forward and reverse up to 10 miles per hour with no lockup. Decided to take the vehicle out for a spin around the property and the vehicle did fine, until I came to a turn. Then it locked up and stopped immediately. Put it in reverse and turned the wheel back to straight and it unlocked again. Every time it locked up, it was related to turning the wheel. , when the wheel was turned again, it would unlock.

So there must be some play in the front diff causing this. I am noticing that with the wheels up if I spoin the front tires, there is some play in the pinion flange at the front driveshaft. You can move the driveshaft in and out and side to side about a sixteenth. This seems to be loose to me. Anybody else think so?

My thinking is that when the vehicle is put under power that the torque on the front driveshaft is jamming the gears. How else can you explain that with the vehicle in the air, you can spin the diff with no problem, but if you put it in drive and go, it is locked up? Somehow it appears that turning the wheel is contributing to the pressure and causing movement in the gears that will jam and lock the diff.

Anyone have an opinion about this or any additional troubleshooting advice?

 

Take out the front propshaft and see what happens. If it's the front diff jamming under torque, you may find the problem goes away if it's not under load.
Drain the oil from the front diff and look for anything that shouldn't be there - metal filings or a generally metallic sheen to the oil would indicate all not being well.

If you conclude that it's faulty, or can't come to an alternative conclusion, then you'll have to drop the diff out and have a look. I'll admit that 'drop the diff out' makes the procedure sound somewhat more trivial than it actually is!

 

Take out the front propshaft and see what happens. If it's the front diff jamming under torque, you may find the problem goes away if it's not under load.
Drain the oil from the front diff and look for anything that shouldn't be there - metal filings or a generally metallic sheen to the oil would indicate all not being well.

If you conclude that it's faulty, or can't come to an alternative conclusion, then you'll have to drop the diff out and have a look. I'll admit that 'drop the diff out' makes the procedure sound somewhat more trivial than it actually is!

This is all getting a bit confusing isn't it ?
The fact that first, the rig would only roll a couple of feet before locking up and now, it drives in straight lines leads me to think that perhaps something broke up in the front diff while testing was taking place ? It could be that the back and forth motion during testing was bringing a broken piece to and from a locking situation kinda like rolling between blocks.
Quite why this would change while turning is odd though.
Danny's idea might have some validation, at least you'd be removing the torque effect from the front end but since the diff will be rotating from the wheel input it may not help much.
I had a situation some years ago when a customer had a wheel locking in turns. it took some head scratching but turns out he had replaced his own pads and had somehow rotated one of the calipers a full turn which in turn had twisted the brake flex line, it went around right turns ok but left turns caused the pipe to buckle and lock the wheel.
I'm not suggesting for a moment that this might be your fault, but some silly things can cause some curious problems.
Good luck and please keep us posted.


Chris.