Here is how it fits. I used spectre 3.5 inch couplers for the throttle body and the attachment on the top of the supercharger.

For the middle 90 degree intake pipe I bought this

The only problem with this pipe is that there was a hole on the longer side which I used a metal plug and epoxy to make sure there are no air gaps for air to leak. This pipe did not need to be cut at all to fit.

There are 2 vacuum port welded bungs on the pipe. One is 5/8" and one is 3/4". The 3/4" I used a 7/8" plug and a hose clamp I found at Lowe's to plug it

The 5/8" bung I bought a 5/8" heater hose and a 3/4" to 1/2" pex adaptor at Lowe's to connect it to the vacuum hose I used previously which I think is 3/8".

The black coupler that is connecting the 90 degree pipe to the straight intake pipe is a 3 inch to 3 inch coupler from lowe's. The gap is larger between these pipes so a longer coupler was needed to make this work.

 

This is the coupler I used

For the straight intake pipe with the MAF housing and the heat shield, I reused the Mina Gallery intake kit I bought. They should have it listed for a 2006-2009 Supercharged Range Rover.

I spent hours searching for the biggest air filter I could possibly fit and find for a 3.5 inch flange. I went with the aFe Magnum FLOW Pro 5R air filter

Here's a picture of the new filter up against my old air filter which was the biggest I could find locally.

That is all of the parts I bought and used for the main intake and the easy part of this project. I would 10/10 recommend at least doing this much to the intake as I was never really a fan of any of the stock intake pieces.

Here is a picture of what my old intake looked like before this modification.

 

I build and have fun and like tinker, and so I just got an old 09 Rover after letting my RS go. So I have a couple questions that brought me to this thread. There is a couple things I am taking from what you did absolutely. Between what you and others wrote, and your replies helped me shape my fabrication to be.

What I am going to do differently out of the gate is plastic, and wrapped in heat prevention, vrs using metals. And although I like the look of a fog light delete the rover and other various vehicles , I have decided to do a sealed intake box and intruce a cowl Induction into from the top side of the hood. Also on the 15th the exhaust is being removed completely removed and doing a cat delete and a custom tune and super 40 mufflers coming out to just in front of the rear tires both sides, with black shallow rectangle tips. But I am curious on the pulley you used for the SC, where and how do I obtain that? And I really appreciate you showing and explaining what you did, how you did,and why.

 

Now onto the fog light ram air intake portion. This required many different pieces of various parts that I could find at Lowe's and Home Depot. I had to use a hole saw to drill a hole in the inside of the fender, so if you aren't looking to drill into your Range Rover, this is not the modification for you.

You will have to mark roughly where the opening at the end of your air filter lines up to the fender. I marked roughly the middle with a sharpie and then put the air filter back on to make sure it was as close to center in the filter as possible. Once you think it is in the right spot drill the hole. The metal isn't even in the fender so be careful not to rip off a hand as the drill tried to do that to me a couple times. The hole saw I used was a 2 1/2 inch hole saw. Once the hole is drilled, you will have to really work to get the flexible coupler inside in the right spot. It is a very very tight fit but that keeps the coupler from moving around. Here is the coupler I used

Once that is in place I installed a 1 1/2 inch solid ABS coupler and used the original hose clamp from the flexible elbow to secure it pointing right towards the air filter.

Once that is in place you will need to get some flexible piping such as the one I used. I bought 10 feet and this is what was left over. It is good to have extra but you could probably use 5-6 feet. This is pool and spa hose that I found at Lowe's and worked perfectly for what I wanted. The outside diameter is 2 inches and is about the biggest I could have fit in the bumper

You will have to take off the fender well and the panel underneath the left front side of the car to gain access to this. Once done with that I ran the hose down the little groove and around the washer fluid reservoir.

You will then have to remove the fog light bezel and remove the fog light. Once that is removed you will see a hole that runs inside of the car from there. Fishing the flexible hose through the little opening isn't too difficult but you will have to get under the car to get it there. I would recommend leaving the hose sticking out of the fog light and out of the hole in the fender for now.

 

I used one of these 1 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inch couplers and sawed it in half. One half was used for the hose going into the 90 degree elbow in the fender and one half was used going into the 3 inch to 2 inch coupler I used for the fog light intake.

Then you're going to have to force the coupler into the bottom of the elbow coupler and tighten down the hose clamp. This is a little bit tricky but do-able.

This is what the hose should look like from the wheel well once it is installed and zip tied in place

Then at the fog light side you will want to use the other half of the 1 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inch coupler that was cut and clamp it down on the flexible hose and then put it inside of a 3 inch to 2 inch coupler and use the hose clamp to tighten it down again. I had to zip tie the fog light connector plug wire out of the way so it would not get damaged.

It is very difficult getting this 3 inch to 2 inch coupler to fit inside of the fog light housing. I had to really force it to fit inside and had to use an exacto knife to cut a couple of notches for the fog light housing to fit all the way inside of it. I forgot to take pictures of this part but I have a picture once it is completed. The glass on my fog light was already broken so I just had to remove it from the fog light. There is one torx head screw holding the interior chrome piece to the black plastic housing. By removing this screw and gently pushing the chrome piece out the back it will come out. Once it is out you will be left with the black plastic housing. I slid this inside of the rubber coupler and then tightened the fog light screws to secure it in place. Here is a picture of the completed fog light intake and what it should look like.

Once that is done the intake and fog light ram air intake is complete and this is what it should look like

 

But, ram air makes no real difference on a forced induction intake system. By the time you get to ram air speeds the forced induction is already in effect.

You also need a sealed airbox for ram air to work. Something like the BMC filter OTA or CDA. Otherwise the ram air effect is just venting out.

Cold air intakes are also negligible on forced induction systems since ideally you want an intercooler after the supercharger/turbo to cool/condense the air before going into the engine.

 

Username checks out.

If you want to leave the stock intake be my guest. I have had mine tuned and put a small pulley on it. I calculated using math, that with the stock air filter or any of the stock piping it was not getting the required amount of air to make use of my tune or small pulley. The whole reason for upgrading to a setup like this is to get the most power out of your engine. If you don’t care about getting every last horsepower then don’t do it. Putting a bigger air filter, bigger intake piping, and having all of the piping the same size allows the air to flow better and therefore leads to smoother power and more power.

Ram air doesn’t have much effect going under highway speeds but when you’re moving at speed having cool air feeding directly into your intake will help performance. Cold air is more dense and that means you will make more power. My ram air intake is feeding directly into my cone filter so you’re wrong that it has no effect. I can hear the intake from the fog light.

I also think it looks way better than the stock setup which was designed to go off-road not for performance. My setup maximizes the amount of whine you hear from the supercharger. If I have a supercharger on a car I’d like to hear it. When I had my stock intake it barely made any noise.

 

you have open box under bonnet. No overpressure at all, in addition you have lot more hot air from engine fan than inducted through your corrugated pipe.
Air resistance with this type of pipe and tight angles gives lot more resistance than stock solution. If any effect then because you have opened flow via engine bay.
Luckly not my car

 

you have open box under bonnet. No overpressure at all, in addition you have lot more hot air from engine fan than inducted through your corrugated pipe.
Air resistance with this type of pipe and tight angles gives lot more resistance than stock solution. If any effect then because you have opened flow via engine bay.
Luckly not my car

It looks like he has a divider between the engine compartment and his left sided "airbox", that even has a rubber gasket on top presumably to seal with the closed hood, so there probably is some effect from this setup, whether or not there's a greater effect than exists with the stock setup is a different question. I understand people say that makes no difference with forced air, but OTOH, all the top fuel dragsters seem to have an airbox of some sort, and those guys wouldn't add something to the weight of their vehicle unless it did something.

I don't see any tight angles in the pipe.

What I don't understand is putting a bare-metal pipe in the engine compartment. That will probably get hotter than H, and produce the opposite of cold air. Why not just wrap the whole thing in heat tape? You know what would really be cool is having a pipe within a pipe, sealing the ends with a valve at one end, and sucking all the air out between the pipes putting the whole insulated pipe under vacuum. That would probably resist heat exchange pretty well.

Eh, it's not my thing, but if the owner's happy, that's the important thing.

 

Yes, I’ve learned some modesty goes a long ways and claiming one is an expert means they have nothing to learn about a subject, which I feel there is always something to learn.

However, since you are an expert I will leave you too it.

 

All that effort under the hood and I wonder if he is still running stock exhaust.


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If you don’t like the intake move on to a different thread. This is for someone who would like to do this.

And no, the exhaust is not stock. The only restriction in my exhaust is vibrant resonators. I have removed everything else and put an x pipe right before where the rear muffler used to be. I removed the rear tow bar to run the exhaust straight out the middle as well. I will post videos once I get some taken.

I’m only an engineer and have tried many different setups on this car. What do I know?

I remember when I drove it stock it would always go into limp home mode. Ever since putting a cone filter a couple years ago I have never had it go into limp home mode once. Coincidence? I think not.

 

If you don’t like the intake move on to a different thread. This is for someone who would like to do this.

Would you be so kind to set up a thread about this intake especially for those who have built an engine or two? We'd love to rave there but until then we've got no other choice than do it here.

I calculated using math, that with the stock air filter or any of the stock piping it was not getting the required amount of air to make use of my tune or small pulley.

I'd love to see these calculations. Did you actually include the effects of how a smaller pulley works in a supercharger?

#protip: Supercharger rotating faster but of a constant capacity = same amount of air but in less time = greater velocity of the air stream in the intake in given time = higher pressure in the combustion chamber = no reason for wider intake, since the volume is constant, it's the integral of the charge velocity that makes for delta pressure.

Ram air doesn’t have much effect going under highway speeds but when you’re moving at speed having cool air feeding directly into your intake will help performance. Cold air is more dense and that means you will make more power.

Sorry to piss on your parade, but your air is not any cooler.

My ram air intake is feeding directly into my cone filter so you’re wrong that it has no effect. I can hear the intake from the fog light.

Which proves exactly nothing, it's obvious that if you have an exposed filter, it will be noticeable.

I also think it looks way better than the stock setup which was designed to go off-road not for performance.

It's an offroad luxury 4x4.

My setup maximizes the amount of whine you hear from the supercharger. If I have a supercharger on a car I’d like to hear it.

It's an offroad luxury 4x4. Not a Hellcat from a ghetto.

And no, the exhaust is not stock. The only restriction in my exhaust is vibrant resonators. I have removed everything else and put an x pipe right before where the rear muffler used to be.

So you resigned from optimal scavenging by mixing the pulses of the banks for the noise.

I see a pattern here, solutions that are loud, but not exactly functioning. In traditional engine building the noise is a derivative of the power an engine makes. You give examples of trying to create power by making more noise, which doesn't really work in real life.

Apparently math didn't tell you the noise comes from a reversal of the pressure wave that inevitably happens in a cross plane crank V8 with an x-piped exhaust due to the odd firing order. This wave, to surprise of no one, does not help with exhaust gas velocity which is what one should be looking for in an exhaust. Actually, it slows the scavenging down. This makes some real sick noizez, stuff the whole ghetto admires, but reduces the efficiency of the exhaust system by creating unnecessary backpressure. Since a supercharged engine, as opposed to a turbocharged one, has exactly the same needs in exhaust department as a naturally aspirated one, backpressure is not welcome.

#protip: since the temperature of the exhaust gases in a system that long drops significantly between the headers and the exhaust tip, the daughter of maths, physics, will tell you that in order to keep the flow velocity your exhaust not only needs to be NOT x-piped, but also the diameter of the piping should gradually change in order to keep the given amount of exhaust gases at the same velocity while their temperature drops throughout the system (Boyle's law, expanded to ideal gas equation, pV = nRT).

I remember when I drove it stock it would always go into limp home mode. Ever since putting a cone filter a couple years ago I have never had it go into limp home mode once. Coincidence? I think not.

The engine map compensates for unexpected air with throwing more fuel than necessary, nothing to see here,
You claim that you are able to create an overpressure situation without sealing the airbox filter section of the intake you created. While the daughter of maths, (physics) teach us that it is really, really hard to create an overpressure in a non-sealed container, if this ram-air contraption actually worked (it doesn't) you'd reduce the wading depth of a Range Rover to less than half stock. Well, congratulations, but it seems to me you've picked the wrong car.

The stock intake is sealed, but it is not heat proof. The cheap plastic they used allows heat inside.

Doesn't matter. You've got an air-water intercooler which is the equalizer in this case. The heat-soaking of a 4.2 SC comes from lack of air movement around the heat exchanger (or a busted IC pump), not from the fact that the plastic airbox gets warm. Plastic has generally much lower thermal conductivity than metal, so as I said - the stock box is a non-issue. However your intake features roughly 170 square inches of metal pipe that has virtually no shielding from the engine heat and conducts this heat perfectly into the air running through it. And then (again, physics) you have a supercharger that heats the (already pre-heated) air to a temperature about 17% higher than the engine expects. And then...
And then you run it through stock A2W heat exchanger that does not work long-term even with the stock pulley.

#protip: what you should've done was to use a nice, sealed, low-heat-conducting container you already had (stock airbox), modify it to accommodate a "performance" filter (BTW your intake sensors will show gratitude for the "performance" of a random cone filter, I mean, this is not even a branded item, no K&N nor Green, nor Holley) and to include this big ass piping to the engine. This piping should be covered with gold foil, sleeved or at least wrapped in reflective heat tape or even a thermal bandage to avoid heat soak.

This all will do a fraction of what an uprated IC cooling pump would do. You want cool compressed air not cool ambient air because you just can not make a ram-air intake with heat-conductive piping drop your IAT by 100 F. Such uprated pump with perhaps a bigger (much bigger) heat exchanger will lower the intake charge temperature (sure, denser air = more air) and allow for igniting the appropriate amount of fuel while maintaining optimal ignition retard, which is crucial for making power. Or avoiding knocking, which is also quite useful.

 

Here is what it sounded like with my old intake. I will post more videos once I have taken some with the new intake.

 

This 1.5" ID hose is certainly a smaller opening than anything the factory system went through. Not that it matters, you have a supercharger handling getting air into the engine. Even if you create a system with less resistance to airflow, that supercharger is going to pull its displacement worth of air and that's it. That's why engineers focus on cooling the intake air on a supercharger via intercooler, increasing the density by cooler air does give the engine more air. If you had used smaller pipe over the top of the engine, you could have wrapped it in insulation to give less heating of the air by the engine. Not sure that would matter but at least it has a theoretical basis for working. You also simply guessed a good location for the intake hole. As air splits and some goes over the car, some under, there are low pressure zones created. Without wind tunnel testing, you wouldn't know where these are. But the biggest concern I see is the lack of concern for water egress. Since you are pulling air from down in the spray on a rainy day, and that air goes straight into your air cleaner, certainly some is going straight into the engine. That's why the factory air box is design the way it is. Also, if you are now hearing your SC is louder (independent of the pulley change) its likely not a good thing, a noisier intake suggests a flow restriction that wasn't there before.
If you are going to shade tree mechanic these types of mods, you really need access to a dyno. Without a clear picture of what is happening to the power curve, you could be making gains in one area only to loose it in another. I haven't seen a stock power curve for the 4.2 but I have for the 5.0. Torque was totally flat before a certain RPM. This suggested that the engine ECU is limiting torque at lower RPM, probably to avoid wear on diffs, transfer case, and trans. So its entirely possible that increase power at lower RPM's is impossible without tuning of the ECU.

 

The heat generated while the air is flowing through the pipes is negligible. It might add a degree or two of heat. The noise that is being made is from the supercharger sucking air through the filter. This is normal and is not causing harm on it. When you remove the hemholz resonator pipe and put a cone filter it creates the supercharger whine when hitting the gas pedal. This isn’t a modification that is going to add a ton of power. It might only add 2-3% more horsepower over stock. But visually it is more appealing, it sounds better, and adding a little extra power is nice.

The stock intake is sealed, but it is not heat proof. The cheap plastic they used allows heat inside. The stock intake pulled air from the fender well not from the front of the car. It was designed this way to allow the Range Rover to go off-road and not get water or mud inside of the intake. It was in no way designed to be a performance intake and was purely for allowing the car to go through water up to a certain depth and for off-roading.

 

The heat generated while the air is flowing through the pipes is negligible. It might add a degree or two of heat.
The stock intake is sealed, but it is not heat proof. The cheap plastic they used allows heat inside. The stock intake pulled air from the fender well not from the front of the car.

My point was simply that the large stainless pipe is going to heat up and transmit more heat to the air than the OEM plastic. A degree or two matters here, you are fighting your intercooler. You can't just dismiss negatives and imagine improvements. Pulling air from the front of the car is the same as through the fenders. If there was a ram effect it would negated by the lack of a sealed system and the fact that this is a supercharged engine anyway. Here's a link where an engineer tested ram air and cold air systems -
Engineering Explained: Cold Air Intakes Vs Short Ram Intakes
Since your stock system is a cold air intake, the relevant one is the ram air. Of course this is a normally aspirated engine rather than your SC so I would expect even less to no improvements. Also note his comments on heat soak. And even if it matched this, you are looking at higher rpm advantages only with less low rpm power. But more likely on you SC motor, it changes nothing. If you really have mechanical engineering training and approached this using it, I would be curious what calcs you did to suggest this a worthwhile mod. At the very least what research you did. And then, you should be showing results to prove or disprove what you have done compared to stock.

 

I respect that you’re an engineer. Having taken a few engineering courses in college (before realizing that it wasn’t for me) I know that much of engineering can be hypothetical calculations on a piece of paper until put to the test. Bench testing, dyno runs, stress test, etc.

Having raced cars when I was younger, I know there is a lot of trial and error sometimes.

That said, from a conversation I had a few years ago aboard my 777 to Tokyo, I had an engineer strike up a conversation mid flight. While he may have been good at what he specialized in, he could not wrap his head around the concept of airspeed in relation to ground speed. He could not grasp why it took thirteen and half hours to fly there and only twelve back when the aircraft flew at the same speed in both directions. [emoji848]

Changing to a smaller pulley without improving heat dissipation generates more heat. The supercharger becomes heat soaked thus pushing hotter air into the combustion chambers and reducing air charge. A good engine tuner would have passed that on instead of trying to turn a buck on a sale.

Your initial run down the strip may yield a winning time. But any subsequent runs down the drag strip, my dynotuned 4.2 with stock pulley will take you. I’ve hung with stock RR 5.0 SC. The supercharger and transmission are my limiting factors to beating a 5.0. But I’m happy with what I got.

I’ve built engines. Last one being my Harley. After a performance rebuild, my dyno run showed I lost about 5 HP, but I gained 30 ft/lbs of torque. Which one has more practical use on the street? Horsepower pretty much determines your top speed. Torque gets you there. Torque is KING. But an engineer would know that. Horsepower only sells cars. Nice to have in say west Texas. Not so much in downtown Houston.


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I’ve built engines. Last one being my Harley. After a performance rebuild, my dyno run showed I lost about 5 HP, but I gained 30 ft/lbs of torque. Which one has more practical use on the street? Horsepower pretty much determines your top speed. Torque gets you there. Torque is KING. But an engineer would know that. Horsepower only sells cars. Nice to have in say west Texas. Not so much in downtown Houston.

Horsepower is a calculated value using torque and rpm. So I think what you are saying here is that your peak torque is 30 ft-lbs. higher but a lower rpm. So at the rpm of your peak torque, both torque and hp are higher, its just math. To gain 30 ft-lbs. and only lose 5hp at its peak, should be a win because you probably spend more time at peak torque than at peak hp. But if you lost a bunch of power at peak, that might translate into a slower engine. Its entirely possible for an engine with the highest hp to loose a race if the shape of the torque curve has a big spike vs. a big dome shape with lower ultimate peak. What you want is torque that builds early, and sustains to high rpm. So to modify what you said while agreeing with you - the torque curve is king.

 

Something I’m genuinely curious about; you say your car would go into limp mode with the stock intake setup. What were the error codes that were recorded?

 

As Admin I have been pointed towards this thread, all of which I find highly amusing. Here we have someone who defines the saying that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, having the error of his ways and perverse thinking pointed out to him by real engineers. I suspect all he has done with his mods is make it produce less, or exactly the same amount of, power as it did previously but make more noise.

The only comment I will make is that he posted it a day late. April Fools day is the 1st of April and not the 2nd......

 

The ID should get progressively larger for the full length of the intake. Which means no cross-sectional area should be larger than the throttle body, nor smaller than fog light hole. Ideally the throttle body should be 10% larger diameter than the initial intake port, in this case the fog light hole.

If you look at any jet engine you will see the first set of fan blades is 10% larger than the cowl opening. Also the curved shape of the cowl's leading edge is important to minimize turbulence which would block air flow. You might look for a flange or 3D printed part that mimics the front of a jet engine.

If you do the thought experiment of pointing the wide end of a funnel into the wind. You'd see it does not make a compressor. Rather the air molecules bouncing off the walls of the funnel just create turbulence and block air flow. Replaying the experiment with different angles funnels, you realize a straight pipe is better than a funnel. Add some real world effects, and a slightly increasing diameter tube is even better.

 

It looks nice. Obliviously you enjoyed doing it. That is what car culture is all about. Keep enjoying your Range Rover!

 

Best post of the thread!

 

By putting a small pulley on my supercharger and having my engine tuned it gave me more usable power in the real world compared to stock. It effectively shifted the peak rpm of my supercharger to a lower rpm. At around 2000 rpm or off the line there’s not many cars that car hang with my Range Rover.
The small pulley is not enough to heat soak the Eaton supercharger on the 4.2. Many mustang guys run 20lbs or more of boost on their Eaton blowers. Some of them are fine but most end up failing when running that much boost. I ran some calculations like 2 years ago when I installed the small pulley. I am running 15.5 lb of boost and stock is 13 lb on these superchargers. At the very top of the rev range it was spinning a little past the recommended safe rpm. I think mine maxed at like 14500 rpm. A lot of the people who modify these blowers say that they are safe up to 15000 or even 17000 rpm before any real problems arise. The main worry is the lifespan. The faster it spins the shorter the life.
If I was running 17lbs or more of boost then I might run into heat soak issues. I have done some hard pulls on the freeway and not run into any heat soak issues yet.
I have also stripped 600 plus pounds out of it and weighed in at 5200 lbs. are you also going to say that makes no difference in the real world?
My 4.2 Range Rover would beat any 5.0 Range Rover because the power to weight ratio is better.

 

I have also stripped 600 plus pounds out of it and weighed in at 5200 lbs. are you also going to say that makes no difference in the real world?
My 4.2 Range Rover would beat any 5.0 Range Rover because the power to weight ratio is better.

I don't think anybody here will dispute that weight savings help. And raising boost should too. Not sure its enough to overcome the power and torque increase of a 5.0 though. You are going to have to get some test data to prove that. What's your goal with stripping a RR and hopping it up? The worlds heaviest race car?

 

Don’t forget. Your transmission is not only your limiting factor but also your weakest link. If you are truly putting more torque to the drive train, it will most certainly exceed the transmission ratings.


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Very true @LuisC. The 5.0SC creates 460 ft-lbs of torque followed by the 3.0 TDV6 creating 443 ft-lbs of torque and they both have an uprated version of the 6HP28 transmission to handle the torque.

@2006silverrr, where did you lose 600 pounds of car? Did you drop the back seats and spare/tools?

 

Back seats have been removed, tow bar package, rear muffler, front seats have been replaced with braum seats and many other little things that add up. I have also removed all air suspension components and replaced the suspension with an adjustable coilover setup. It’s a project car for me and it’s fun to have a sleeper build that nobody expects. Any time I take it out I get compliments on it and people think it’s cool.
its just something I enjoy building and modifying.
I just had to rebuild the valve body due to a mechatronic failure in the transmission and everything looked like it was in decent shape. The transmission isn’t my worry at this point as I have 150,000 miles and there’s many other issues and potential problems at this mileage. I will most likely be either rebuilding the engine or transmission in the next couple years anyways due to the mileage and how old it is. If not then I would be engine and transmission swapping it.
But I’ve put 20,000 miles on it since the small pulley and tune and haven’t had any catastrophic failures as of yet. It’s not my daily driver so it’s not a huge concern for me

 

It’s a project car for me and it’s fun to have a sleeper build that nobody expects. Any time I take it out I get compliments on it and people think it’s cool.

The definition of “sleeper” must have changed in the last forty years.
When I was playing with engine builds and racing cars, a sleeper was defined as a vehicle that looked and sounded factory stock but was modified on the inside. When the throttle was nailed…….HELLO!


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Well! This is was good for a laugh! As a counter point, before I replaced the Pirelli tires on our 2006 SC I could get around 20 mpg cruising at interstate speeds. After I had some Kumho sticky sports tires installed I can get over 16 mpg. the Kumhos ride great, are quite quiet and stick like sh*t to a blanket so I'm not surprised fuel miles is worse, but 4 mpg? Crikey.

But just imagine doing all this 'creative' work to hopefully get a little more power and noise, only to lose it and more should an owner install grippier tires. I guess if I had a 'blower Bentley' I'd want to hear the Villiers supercharger a bit but I love the quiet whoomph when I stomp the loud peddle when required. If I wanted loud I'd buy a RAM truck like my neighbors rattle can.

 

If successful, you’re only going to get this vehicle to where it will beat other Rovers.
You will never beat a Hemi.
Just go buy a Ram TRX and chase Mustangs all day.


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I guess whatever makes you happy is a good thing. I like my quiet SC RR that nobody thinks would be powerful. For my noise and speed, I have a motorcycle. I don't get to ride as much as I would like but when I do, that's a very good day.