As a reference, here are some photos of the screen in the 2008 with Navtool. Works great while retaining all of the OEM functionality. I may have to make the purchase and determine if it will work in the 2012 correctly if no one has info on it. I'm just a little concerned about the lack of details on the web site for post 2009 models.

 

So this is so you can display your phone on your screen? It seems to me that you really are only gaining a larger screen for Nav. Personally, I like that using my phone is audible only through the car but doesn't display it, less distraction. Worst case, use the built-in Nav. I'm surprised that with all the distracted driving issues stuff that packs more into larger screens is still legal. Not to mention controlling the whole car like Tesla.

 

No. It is Andriod Auto and Apple car play so you control it on the touch screen, not on the phone, just like any new car. The old functionality still remains.

 

Checking in here, did you ever take the plunge here? I'm curious as I have a 2012 supercharged L322 and would be into it if I knew the touch screen still worked for input (as opposed to needing to use the clicker remote).

 

Re: MY2012 L322 S/C (North American, left hand side steering wheel)

What's the best/easiest route to access the radio module by the glovebox, and the back of the LCD head unit as well? Can I remove the vent covers on either end of the dash, then the middle vent cover, then the center speaker grill, and then screws? Or do I also need to go through removing the gloveboxes too?

 

Disconnect the battery prior to removing the dash but remember to pop open the glove boxes first and tape over the latches to prevent inadvertently closing them.

Not necessary to remove the glove boxes to access just the radio module adjacent to the passenger firewall but it is necessary to remove them to remove the leather top roll.

Radio module only:
Remove the passenger side console side panel. Pop out the passenger footwell light and disconnect the two wire connector. Remove the passenger kick [horizontal] panel trim. Remove the two 8mm headed screws retaining a narrow metal strip which supports the module. Remove the two screws securing the module to the metal strip. Disconnect the two or three connectors to the module and slide down. Done.

For head unit access the top roll cover needs to be removed. Remove the center upper vent (fiddly and easy to damage) and disconnect the connector. Remove the center speaker grill and two large torx screws underneath it. Remove the side end caps (boomerang shape) to gain access to the wood trim end caps. Remove the vents within the wood trim using a couple of small picks to releases the pair of tabs on each side of the vents. Disconnect the two wire connectors. Remove the glove boxes, detaching the associated connectors for the release latches and lights. Remove the screw retaining the horizontal trim panel immediately above the upper glovebox. Carefully pry the trim panel towards you starting at the right side. There’s three plastic tabs which are pressed into retainers within the dash support so be gentle. Remove the three screws behind that trim which retains the upper dash. Remove two bolts securing the passenger airbag to the metal-framed dash support. Disconnect the large yellow airbag connector, then remove the remaining large torx screws and lift up the leather top roll.

If you need to remove the head unit the two adjacent side trims have a retaining screw which is accessed vertically.

I may have forgotten step or two but that’s pretty much it.

 

Disconnect the battery prior to removing the dash but remember to pop open the glove boxes first and tape over the latches to prevent inadvertently closing them.

Not necessary to remove the glove boxes to access just the radio module adjacent to the passenger firewall but it’s easier to remove the leather top roll with them removed. It’s possible to remove the top roll with the glove boxes in situ (for access to the head unit) if you’re careful and understand how it all comes apart (hidden fixings).

Radio module only:
Remove the passenger side console side panel. Pop out the passenger footwell light and disconnect the two wire connector. Remove the passenger kick [horizontal] panel trim. Remove the two 8mm headed screws retaining a narrow metal strip which supports the module. Remove the two screws securing the module to the metal strip. Disconnect the two or three connectors to the module and slide down. Done.

For head unit access the top roll cover needs to be removed. Remove the center upper vent (fiddly and easy to damage) and disconnect the connector. Remove the center speaker grill and two large torx screws underneath it. Remove the side end caps (boomerang shape) to gain access to the wood trim end caps. Remove the vents within the wood trim using a couple of small picks to releases the pair of tabs on each side of the vents. Disconnect the two wire connectors. If leaving the gloveboxes in situ; after removing the passenger side wood trim, remove the screw retaining the horizontal trim panel immediately above the upper glovebox. Carefully pry the trim panel towards you starting at the right side. There’s three plastic tabs which are pressed into retainers within the dash support so be gentle. Remove the three screws behind that trim which retains the upper dash and then remove the remaining large torx screws and lift up the leather top roll. There’s a yellow connector plug/wire on the underside at the right rear connecting to the passenger side dash mounted airbag.

If you need to remove the head unit the two adjacent side trims have a retaining screw which is accessed vertically.

I may have forgotten step or two but that’s pretty much it.

Thanks. I've ordered the Navtool and the quick connect diagram calls for access to both. We'll see if there's further info on installing when it arrives.

 

👍🏻

You may get lucky and be able to access the rear of the head unit through the upper center vent aperture.

Certainly worth an attempt but be careful removing that vent. Easy to break the tabs and definitely needs some patience to reinstall

Rob

 

I did this whole install on my 2011, took 30 minutes. simply remove the dashboard AC vent, pull the passenger side trim piece off of the center console, remove the footwell cover under the glove box, and remove the floor vent tube under the glove box. Drop the radio module down, only two screws to remove. This will make connecting the NAVTOOL harnesses a breeze.

Connect the NAVTOOL wire harnesses as shown above in TorontoDee's post. You don't actually need to remove the dashboard to route wires. If you've got nimble hands, you can unhook the wire from the back of the radio from under the dash vent and connect the NAVTOOL harness to it from there. You do need to run an RCA up to that harness behind the screen. I used a coat hanger to fish the RCA cables up to the touch screen from under the glovebox area that i was working in. Just run a coat hanger down behind the dash vent tubes and it will/should come down behind the center console. With those RCA cables ran, connect the video input/output wires at the head unit like-for-like with the ones down at the NAVTOOL box's wiring harness. Use the second RCA pair to connect the audio cables like for like down at the NAVTOOL box's harnesses, and that's it. Install complete.

Fire up the vehicle, change your radio's audio source to AUX to get audio from CarPlay, then go to Camera view on the head unit, then hold the End Call button on the steering wheel for a second to access the NAVTOOL UI.

 

Thanks very much. I'll use your experience as the guide. Any particular length of RCA's you'd recommend? 3ft? Or?

I also have this hope I can transmit audio from my phone to the head unit via Navtool using an Invery Bluetooth adapter which is plugged in to the iPod port in the center console cubby. We'll see whether it's feasible as this all shakes out.

 

 

1st pass at this is unsuccessful - the original headunit wasn't powering up when starting the ignition (but the Navtool does have power, there's a light and a beep). I put back the original connections and the headunit powered up okay again. I'm going to take another crack at it after checking the connections are tight enough.

 

Same thing happened to me. I didn't flip the two dip switches. Once you flip the two dipswitches on the NAVTOOL the head unit should come on. Both should be in the ON position, which is actually in the down position.

 

Another thing I learned when doing the NAVTOOL install, there are two different software options for the 2010-12 L322, make sure you pick the the right software for factory surround cameras if you have it.

 

Ya, this I did. I'll still reconnect it to the updater and look at the option today. I have factory surround cameras.

Re: dip switches - This is most likely the key. I too actually noticed it and flipped them after having backed everything out.

I gotta figure out the RCA run between the headunit and Navtool too. May go and get a fish tape today if I get the chance.

 

Houston, we have liftoff!

Trickiest things were me missing that the dip switches had to be both down, and running the RCA from the new head unit harness down to the Navtool (I actually had to buy a fish tape to do it). These are all my issue.

Now to start figuring out about getting all the Android Auto settings adjusted just so...

 

Now a question for you. Does your color seem a bit washed out and brightness seem low? Mine doesn’t look how I’d expect it to. It’s not bad, but it isn’t great.

 

Working through the gremlins, I've got it pairing fine and showing on the headunit. But while ppl can hear me fine on a call, the audio output over the Rover's speakers is almost non-existent even at max volume. I'm going to check the RCA's are tight this weekend. Seems odd given the stock audio is fine through the radio, and between the phone and the Invery Bluetooth I have... Another thing that's odd is the reverse camera isn't presenting on the headunit, although that may be because I have the settings for cameras toggled to 'aftermarket' vs factory.

More details to follow...

 

Working through the gremlins, I've got it pairing fine and showing on the headunit. But while ppl can hear me fine on a call, the audio output over the Rover's speakers is almost non-existent even at max volume. I'm going to check the RCA's are tight this weekend. Seems odd given the stock audio is fine through the radio, and between the phone and the Invery Bluetooth I have... Another thing that's odd is the reverse camera isn't presenting on the headunit, although that may be because I have the settings for cameras toggled to 'aftermarket' vs factory.

More details to follow...

I think you can adjust audio settings for music and phone calls in the main menu when not connected to a smart phone. For the camera, correct the camera settings and it should work.

 

Update: everything's sorted, all's functioning as advertised.

The audio output volume issue turned out to be a missed installation step (a deadhead 3.5mm plug to the 2nd row AUX - see pics below). The lynchpin to my scenario was a plug that actuates the AUX that brings full volume to the system (between the phone, the Navtool, and the onboard stereo components). I had this "hmmm, wonder what this is for" moment when I looked at what arrived in the kit, then promptly forgot about it until chatting back and forth with support over email. Sometimes it's the little things that make all the difference.

 

Update: everything's sorted, all's functioning as advertised.

The audio output volume issue turned out to be a missed installation step (a deadhead 3.5mm plug to the 2nd row AUX - see pics below). The lynchpin to my scenario was a plug that actuates the AUX that brings full volume to the system (between the phone, the Navtool, and the onboard stereo components). I had this "hmmm, wonder what this is for" moment when I looked at what arrived in the kit, then promptly forgot about it until chatting back and forth with support over email. Sometimes it's the little things that make all the difference.

View attachment 307071

View attachment 307070

That’s interesting. I actually had the same low volume issue, but instead of plugging in that 3.5mm dead plug, I just disconnected from the NAVTOOL’s Bluetooth and all was fine.

 

Quick question on whether any of your solutions work with dual view screens? The options I can find on eBay here in the UK only seem to be for single view screens. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I am still trying to figure out which is a better option for my 2010 SC L322 NAVTOOL NAVIPLUS or the Unique Auto Developments option? do we have a demo video of the navitool features anywhere? Did anyone do a comparision? any help here would be appreciated.

 

I am still trying to figure out which is a better option for my 2010 SC L322
NAVTOOL
NAVIPLUS
or the Unique Auto Developments option?

do we have a demo video of the navitool features anywhere?

Did anyone do a comparision?

any help here would be appreciated.

 

FWIW I purchased and installed the NAVTOOL and it worked pretty well, it was aggravating that I had to go to the camera view and push and hold the end call button to switch. I found the built-in display just doesn't show well, it's dark and washes out easily in the sun when using the CarPlay view.

I haven't ever been able to confirm it but around the same time I installed this, the vehicle developed a parasitic battery drain. I removed the installation thinking it was the cause and since then haven't been able to fully resolve the drain issue. I stopped short of blaming the NAVTOOL for the problem - but I won't be reinstalling it. I have continuous faults in my Amp now and am replacing it in the hopes that solves my issues.

My lesson learned is that these vehicles are SUPER temperamental when it comes to their electronics. Proceed with extreme caution as the slightest misstep could cost you as it has cost me. I'm sticking with OEM now and hope I can save my beloved ride because otherwise it's in great shape and runs like new with 170k miles!

Oh, and there are several YouTube videos out there about the Unique Auto product - seems like a major install job.

 

I am still trying to figure out which is a better option for my 2010 SC L322
NAVTOOL
NAVIPLUS
or the Unique Auto Developments option?

do we have a demo video of the navitool features anywhere?

Did anyone do a comparision?

any help here would be appreciated.

 

NavTool stands out as the only brand offering a 100% plug-and-play solution for the back of the radio. On the contrary, all the other brands you mentioned, which source their products from the same suppliers in China, require disassembling your screen into small pieces. You then have to insert various components like boards and ribbon cables into the screen, reassemble it, and meticulously handle the screen to avoid damaging the delicate clips. In contrast, NavTool's solution seamlessly integrates into the back of the screen without requiring such extensive steps. While requesting an installation manual from any of the other brands would lead you to a process involving screen disassembly, NavTool offers a more straightforward approach.
.

 

Would you still recommend the Navtool? How long did it take you to install it?

 

Are any of these options using a digital audio connection rather than the analog aux connection?

 

I don't think the L322 provides a digital aux in.

 

Isn’t that effectively what the iPod connection is?

 

In 99% of the cars I know, the iPod connection with this characteristic cable is analog audio + usb for track management via 30-pin iPod plug. This is due to the fact DRM-protected files could not be accessed via USB connection at this time. Apple allowed for it later, in pure USB iPod input (30 pin or Lightning on the other end) which needs to be Apple certified and includes additional hardware/software for decoding the DRM-protected files.
USB does not transmit standard PCM stream as it is in case of a CD changer hooked up to MOST loop, if you put an USB stick with mp3 files it is just a storage device and the whole decoding is done on the headunit side.

 

In this case, how does the Invery Bluetooth adapter work? Isn’t it fully digital through the iPod connector?

Alternatively, there’s the CD path you mention. Have none of these CARPLAY units attempted going that direction?

 

Update on my end: After being pleased with everything other than an initial 3 second Echo in a phone call, and having to go wired for AA, I decided to research and try to address both these non-deal breakers with a Bluetooth module to bridge the final gap between the shortcoming of the Navtool box and the end user's smartphone. Good news: for $50, I bought the latest carlink BT module on AliExpress, and all is good now. Completely plug and play. Phone connects wirelessly for AA (CarPlay already did this, oddly enough), no more initial echo, and I am completely satisfied. At this point I'm good. (At least until I get the bug to remove the stock head unit completely and install a 10 or 12 inch screen, which will likely be a project for next year. Having a full OLED screen with 8gb RAM and a truly up to date CPU will bring the vehicle fully in line with the modern age).