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Glad it was simple in the end.
Still......Richard, what seems to be "wrong" with the inline thermostat he referenced.
It would be less expensive than a plastic one, and would eliminate any possible breakage issues??
Just curious. I love my alloy reservour tank (with low water alarm), and would not mind getting rid of the plastic T-stat housing as well.
As the OP seems to have replaced everything chasing a non issue, and it is running normal temp, Inline seems to be working.
 
I'm not saying there is anything 'wrong' with it per se. The same engine used in the Classic had the inline stat in the top hose outlet that we are all used to on just about every other older car. For whatever reason LR chose to move the stat resulting in more expense and complication so it must have been done for a reason. Otherwise why didn't they just leave the stat where it was in the top hose outlet, which is still there (on a GEMS at least) and add a Tee in the bottom hose for the heater return (or just use the hose from a Classic). Manufacturers don't change things for the sake of it, they usually do it to cut costs, but this is a change that has increased costs, so why?
 
Original stat left me stranded while offroading and dumped a good portion of my coolant out. The serp belt also made a nice gash in my bypass hose when I got stuck and was doing my best in low range. My engine mounts probably need refreshing, but I'll save that for another day. I did end up trying the inline and deleting the bypass hose. So far after 6 months and lots of towing up steep grades, not a single issue to report with the inline kit. I know all my clamps are different haha, but I just used what I had at the time. Nothing more permeant than a temporary fix :). I wanted something that was easy(er) to change in the bush, so this is what I decided to try.
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