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Range Rover P38 Overheating. A/C Fans Override.

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#65 ·
That kit is from RPi, a company I have had dealings with just once and would never, ever use them again or recommend anyone else to use them. They are the same company that will tell you that every single LR V8 will slip a liner so they can sell you a custom made engine block for £8k.

What that conversion does is back engineer the P38 cooling system to the same as the Classic. Fair enough, it probably works (ish) but obviously Land Rover didn't think it would or they wouldn't have changed it.
 
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Discussion starter · #66 ·
Richard_G said:
That kit is from RPi, a company I have had dealings with just once and would never, ever use them again or recommend anyone else to use them. They are the same company that will tell you that every single LR V8 will slip a liner so they can sell you a custom made engine block for £8k.

What that conversion does is back engineer the P38 cooling system to the same as the Classic. Fair enough, it probably works (ish) but obviously Land Rover didn't think it would or they wouldn't have changed it.
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One should not immediately assume that just "because they (engineers) didn't think of it" it must be impossible or the best solution.

Many engineering and production decisions are based on completely different considerations that have little to do with reliability; the single most important objective for any automotive company is to be profitable.

I can say without a doubt that Land Rover did not foresee or even desire to see P38 driving around after nearly 30 years and with 400,000KM on the odometer - this was never a "design consideration".

I am currently in touch with these people:

Image
 
#67 ·
P38HSE46 said:
One should not immediately assume that just "because they (engineers) didn't think of it" it must be impossible or the best solution.

Many engineering and production decisions are based on completely different considerations that have little to do with reliability; the single most important objective for any automotive company is to be profitable.
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I agree but on the GEMS there is still the original thermostat housing on the inlet manifold where it was on the Classic. So they could have just left the cooling system exactly as it was on the Classic and saved the cost of the remote thermostat but they didn't. They actually increased the cost by adding an additional component.
 
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Discussion starter · #68 ·
Richard_G said:
I agree but on the GEMS there is still the original thermostat housing on the inlet manifold where it was on the Classic. So they could have just left the cooling system exactly as it was on the Classic and saved the cost of the remote thermostat but they didn't. They actually increased the cost by adding an additional component.
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Judging by which applications use these plastic thermostat housings and which don't, I am pretty sure it was a bean counter initiative.
 
#69 ·
You've missed the point. Whether it is plastic or not is irrelevant, it is an additional component that the Classic didn't use so there must be a reason why the cooling system design was changed from that used on the Classic. Many modern components on cars of every make are now plastic and I suspect you will have great difficulty finding a car built since the mid 2010;s that doesn't have plastic cooling system components but it isn't that fact the housing is made from plastic that has caused you problems. The actual thermostat inside the housing is just the same as any other thermostat irrespective of where it is located. If it doesn't work then you have the same problem.
 
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Discussion starter · #70 ·
It is an additional component that was done to reduce cost, be it hardware or man hours - for this reason it's hard to find any car post 2010 that doesn't have plastic parts in the cooling system.

Irrespective, it is coming off and being replaced with an inline system. Will post a thread detailing the process.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
After replacing the radiator, OEM thermostat, fan clutch, water pump and radiator, it seems I have finally discovered the issue: false reading on the temp gauge.

Will start with replacing the sensor, the green one.

Any idea for cross reference part?


Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
 
#72 ·
You mean you didn't confirm the actual temperature with your OBD reader? The GEMS green sensor is NLA so your only option is a used one from a breaker.
 
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#76 ·
I bought one of those, it isn't a replacement for AMR5929 but for the other (brown) temperature sensor. Apart from anything else, the thread is different so you can't get them in the wrong place.
 
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#78 ·
You don't have a problem then, if anything it's running a bit on the cool side but GEMS do tend to run a bit cool anyway. No idea what the resistance should be, just get a replacement and bung it in but check the black wire for a decent ground. They tend to work the opposite way to what you expect so if there is a high resistance on the ground it will read high and not low as you would expect.
 
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DaGlitch
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