It is an additional component that was done to reduce cost, be it hardware or man hours - for this reason it's hard to find any car post 2010 that doesn't have plastic parts in the cooling system.

Irrespective, it is coming off and being replaced with an inline system. Will post a thread detailing the process.

 

After replacing the radiator, OEM thermostat, fan clutch, water pump and radiator, it seems I have finally discovered the issue: false reading on the temp gauge.

Will start with replacing the sensor, the green one.

Any idea for cross reference part?


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You mean you didn't confirm the actual temperature with your OBD reader? The GEMS green sensor is NLA so your only option is a used one from a breaker.

 

Correct. Will wait for the overheat to show up again and check with the OBD and infrared gun.

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What are the Ohm values for this sensor? Was not able to find it on RAVE.



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I have found this post, is there any truth to this?

 

I bought one of those, it isn't a replacement for AMR5929 but for the other (brown) temperature sensor. Apart from anything else, the thread is different so you can't get them in the wrong place.

 

Thanks. I measured with the OBD and it's at 79 degrees.

What values should this sensor have?

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You don't have a problem then, if anything it's running a bit on the cool side but GEMS do tend to run a bit cool anyway. No idea what the resistance should be, just get a replacement and bung it in but check the black wire for a decent ground. They tend to work the opposite way to what you expect so if there is a high resistance on the ground it will read high and not low as you would expect.

 

I remove the sensor, cleaned it a bit and put it back.

Does not overheat anymore

Could have been a simple bad ground...

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Does not overheat anymore

It never did overheat, the gauge just made you think it was.....

 

Glad it was simple in the end.
Still......Richard, what seems to be "wrong" with the inline thermostat he referenced.
It would be less expensive than a plastic one, and would eliminate any possible breakage issues??
Just curious. I love my alloy reservour tank (with low water alarm), and would not mind getting rid of the plastic T-stat housing as well.
As the OP seems to have replaced everything chasing a non issue, and it is running normal temp, Inline seems to be working.

 

I'm not saying there is anything 'wrong' with it per se. The same engine used in the Classic had the inline stat in the top hose outlet that we are all used to on just about every other older car. For whatever reason LR chose to move the stat resulting in more expense and complication so it must have been done for a reason. Otherwise why didn't they just leave the stat where it was in the top hose outlet, which is still there (on a GEMS at least) and add a Tee in the bottom hose for the heater return (or just use the hose from a Classic). Manufacturers don't change things for the sake of it, they usually do it to cut costs, but this is a change that has increased costs, so why?

 

Original stat left me stranded while offroading and dumped a good portion of my coolant out. The serp belt also made a nice gash in my bypass hose when I got stuck and was doing my best in low range. My engine mounts probably need refreshing, but I'll save that for another day. I did end up trying the inline and deleting the bypass hose. So far after 6 months and lots of towing up steep grades, not a single issue to report with the inline kit. I know all my clamps are different haha, but I just used what I had at the time. Nothing more permeant than a temporary fix . I wanted something that was easy(er) to change in the bush, so this is what I decided to try.