The Airbags go "Pop" when they burst, which sounds likely, in your case. If it is not the fault, look under where they roll when moving up and down, then an Air-Pipe blowing off, will go "Pop", and hiss with the compressor working overtime.

 

Thanks for the reply! She just told me it wasn't a "pop" sound. It was more "like construction noises". 🤷‍♂️
Wouldnt it be unlikely both airbags burst simultaneously? I don't know, Im just asking. Im not hearing any hissing noises when the vehicle is on and running.

 

Well at least your wife pulls over when there is a problem. There are hard faults and soft faults in the system. With soft faults, the system continues to function, just letting you know something isn't right. Hard faults stop the system function and give the Max Speed 30 warning. That sounds like where you are now with the compressor shut down. Its pretty hard to do much without a code reader and ability to reset the current fault. Do you have access to anything that will connect and give you more details?

 

I have an iCarSoft LR V2.0 OBD scanner. About to hook it up now and check for codes.

 

Of course your wife broke it..haha..I Kid!. 2010 with 100K plus miles the air bags are ready to go if you or someone else has not replaced them. Jack the front up and remove the inner wheel liners and inspect the bags. Bet you find a major split. Also check the air valve block for broken lines. These can "pop" as well. Let us know what you find.
Dave

 

All four airbags were replaced sometime in the last 5 / 6 years by Land Rover San Antonio.

 

No codes under the "Diagnostic" check.
I ran an OBD check:
ADCM (Adaptive Damping Control Module): C110D Front Right Damper Solenoid
RCLM (Ride Level Control Module): C1A03 Front Left Height Sensor
BCM (Body Control Module): C1A56 Front Left Wheel Module

These were the only ones that seemed height sensor / suspension related. There were a couple others, like a parking assist module and something to do with my inop CD player...stuff like that.
Nothing jumped out about the air compressor. I tried raising the vehicle to off road height...it said "raising" but nothing happened. No compressor noise either.

 

Another question: is there a way to check the air compressor...to see if its still working? Or maybe the compressor relay is bad? Any way to check those buggers?

 

Open up the rear and have a look at it Dave

 

Is there an EAS module? You need to reset if you got the 30 max message. In hard fault your compressor is not going to turn on.

 

Is there an EAS module? You need to reset if you got the 30 max message.

NorCal RR...remember...Land Rover for Dummies. What is an EAS module and 30 messages are you referring to? Not sure if this helps. But after driving the RR home, I moved it again to our driveway and I didn't get any fault or error messages. No dash messages either when I turned it ON to run the diag. with my iCarsoft.
Still wondering if there is a way to put a multimeter to the air compressor to check if its still good (as in not dead / operable)?
Im thinking I have a bad / dead compressor. Any way to confirm this? Any recommendations for replacement?

Im tempted to scrap the air suspension entirely and do a coil over conversion. Thoughts?

 

Today, I checked the relay (passenger side cargo area panel). It read 78 ohms. From my brief readings, thats a good relay. Couldn't find a 9V battery ,for the life me, to further test the relay, but Im satisfied with the multimeter reading. I removed the spare and turtle shell, noticed there's a very obvious layer of dust over the entire compressor. The cover housing was well sealed and the insulation appears intact and not brittle. What gives with the dusty film? Could it be a side effect of what caused the compressor to give out?
Still looking for plug and play replacement compressor suggestions from the community. Im thinking this is a Hitachi, do I have to replace it with another Hitachi or is there a suitable aftermarket one I can use that wont require any software coding / matching?
Id rather not scrap the air suspension but a coil over conversion is definitely on the drawing board.

 

Rather than chase down gremlins and troubleshoot my compressor, Im just gonna replace it. I found this one:
Hitachi part # CMP0002. Matches up with Land Rover part # LR025111.

Anyone have any personal experience with this one. Seems to me that it would be plug and play, no programming required.

 

If your compressor is bad, it likely got that way from compensating for a slow leak. If you have a major leak, the system will fault and shut down the compressor to save it. You could check voltage on the compressor to see. Have you tracked down a proper EAS wiring diagram for your VIN?

 

If there was a major leak and the system shut down the compressor, how do you get it back up and running?
And no, I don't have access to an EAS wiring diagram. To date, this vehicle has needed little in the way of repairs...just general maintenance. Why would I need an EAS diagram?

 

Today, I connected the compressor directly to a 12V battery and it runs. So back to my previous post and question, if the system shut down the compressor, how do you get it back up and functioning? The way it looks to me this compressor is okay. NorCal RR noted that if the system shutdown my compressor, it would have been due to a major leak. Because only the front of the vehicle dropped and the rear maintained its height, Im guessing this major leak would have occurred at the front. Im guessing a failed valve block would have caused both air struts in the front to drop simultaneously. Again, Im guessing? What else could have happened that would have caused the both front air bags to lose air simultaneously and within just minutes and cause the suspension compressor to be shut down??

Quick note about the attached video, the compressor sounds louder in the video that it actually is. Not sure if that means anything or not.

 

Suggested a wiring diagram to see if your compressor was getting voltage. But I guess you have shown that it wasn't (since it runs in your test). It does appear that your system is faulted and not instructing the compressor to turn on. I don't know the iCarsoft system and if it can reset EAS faults as I use GAP IID. I think others are using it here so I would look for info on how to read and reset EAS codes with your tool.

 

Thank you. Im going to reinstall the compressor and connect the iCarsoft again and check for anything EAS related or any new codes. Thanks for the input. If this gets any more troublesome, I think coil over conversion is still a possibility. In my brief searches, can't find any kits for 2010-2012s that have VDS, though. Oh well, I wait till I get to that point.
Thanks again for the advice.

 

I know you said the front bags had been replaced at some point, but you might check and see if there is a build date on them. Leaky front bags are the most common issue. It likely you can fix it for less than coil overs and maintain your smooth ride and not have to mess with a VDS bypass.

 

Quick update:
Had some help with this....paid a former LR shop manager / mechanic guy that now does house calls to troubleshoot this for me. Turns out the front pass. bag is leaking and my compressor is about to die, needs replacement. Gave me an estimate and well lets just say I think I need to source my own parts on this. Im seeing Arnott from $780 to $1288 each, thats gonna be way out of my budget. I would love for this to be my forever vehicle, but with the timing chain issue looming, Im just not so sure. So I'd like to continue driving it till that point, any reliable budget minded struts come to mind?

Looking at these Suncore. They run about $700 for the pair.

About the install:
Ive watched a few videos, some disconnect the battery some don't. Anything definitive on this step?
And if I can't get this into service mode, how do I safely lift up the front end without causing damage?

 

Quick Update: finally got around to removing the air struts and I noticed a ton of grease on the underside of the front passenger strut. Found a tear the CV axle boot. The one closest to the back side of the rotor. Ordered a replacement and a 36mm axle nut socket....videos of same model and year all claimed a 36mm socket is what they used. The 36mm didn't fit. I happened to have a 39mm impact socket, it fit, but its a tad big. Anyone know for sure what size socket it could be or if there is a specialty socket I can order? This is what it looks like...

 

Is your 36mm socket a twelve point? Here's OEM brand struts at Island 4x4 in the UK. It might makes sense to ship them depending on the tariff situation.

Air Spring Strut Front LH L322 2010-12 Variable Damping (BWI) LR012885 LR032567

New LH OEM air suspension strut which fits all Range Rover models 2010 to 2012 with continuous variable damping

www.island-4x4.co.uk

You should have the variable damping setup on your SC, make sure the Suncore struts have it.

 

Is your 36mm socket a twelve point? Here's OEM brand struts at Island 4x4 in the UK. It might makes sense to ship them depending on the tariff situation.
You should have the variable damping setup on your SC, make sure the Suncore struts have it.

Yes I have VDS on my RR. And the Suncore struts I ordered are fitted with VDS. And thanks for pointing something that should have been painfully obvious to me...I ordered a 6 pt socket not 12. I was about to delete the entire post, but I figured hell maybe someone else can learn from my newb mistake. 12 point socket is on the way.
Another thing I realized...there are multiple options for replacing this torn boot:
-replace the entire CV axle which include 2 new boots
-replace just the CV axle joint which includes a new boot
or -replace just the boot
Ive already ordered just the boot (I have it now, waiting for 12 pt socket). But I realized its the same amount of work involved with all 3 options. So for arguments sake, lets just say cost of parts isn't a huge factor, should I have gone a different route? Im a big believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Should that apply to RRs?

 

Buying a rebuilt axle and swapping it out is the easiest for sure. But if the boot fail was pretty recent, you can pull it apart, clean, re-lube, new boot and re-assemble. But if there is dirt and/or water in the boot, I would replace that CV. Since you are owning the 6pt vs. 12 pt mistake, I'll share that once I did this repair (not a RR) and pulled the CV, cleaned it up an reinstalled, but without putting boot on first. Had to pull it back apart and put the boot on, doh! I don't find pulling CV's to be that big of deal and worth it to save the cash. Others hate the job. You will look and smell like a grease monkey when you are done.

 

Also, you need to use a hammer and punch to "unlock" the driveshaft nut.

 

The 12 pt 36mm impact socket came in today. Two taps with the impact wrench and that axle nut zipped right off. I've waited over a week for 30 seconds of worth of work...((shaking my head)). Im thinking while I have the hub off, not only am I going to replace the entire air strut and the torn outer CV boot, Im gonna do the brake pads and replace the lower control arm ball joint. I already have the parts so I figured why not. Any advice...do's and dont's...learned lessons you'd be willing to share? Thanks