Hello ArnaudJ, I see you’re having quite a tough time with the transmission and transfer case. I kind of understand what you’re saying about feeling like you are stuck in low gear. So are you saying you’re stuck in like first gear and won’t upshift OR are you saying that it feels like you’re stuck in low RANGE AND can’t up shift out of first gear? A little clarity will help us try and see if we can guide you with some troubleshooting steps. Meanwhile, I see your truck is throwing some under voltage codes (although it appears you are stating your battery is fully charged. Is that correct?). So we could actually start there and find out if A) your battery is indeed fully charged and B) that voltage is being received by the computers. We can do this with a multimeter. Prior to this your battery probably should be load tested but it sounds as though as the transmission horse hockey is obviously happening with the motor running so the battery may be a non issue and can be ruled out. SO, let’s first try, without the motor running, a couple of simple voltage tests. Measure the voltage of the battery (preferably normalized and by that I mean when the vehicle is running, the alternator should be putting out a voltage of somewhere between 14.2-14.4 volts. So the battery would also be showing that voltage. So if you just ran the truck your battery is going to take a few minutes to return to its resting voltage of somewhere in the range of 12.6-13.1 volts. Make sure the battery is at resting voltage, measure the voltage and make a note of what that is. NEXT, open your glovebox and pull a fuse, any fuse really but gain access to a set of fuse terminals. I’d recommend finding the headlight wipers (but you can use any one convenient to you). Now take your probes and measure across those terminals and make a note of THAT voltage. Double check by probing the “live” side of the fuse and a good point there where you can ground the other probe to a metal point on the body. You might have to try one side or the other but I believe the left side fuse terminal is the “hot” side. OK. Now did the voltage of the battery match the two voltages you measured (both of which should be the same) in the fuse box? That should provide you with an indication if the truck’s electrical system is receiving the full voltage from the battery (should be within <.5 volts of each other) if they are you’re good and you can double check that with the motor running (albeit the voltage would be at the running voltage of the alternator). Having done this, you can rule out the positive battery cable as a potential problem. Sometimes, if that cable gets stressed it can cause a significant voltage drop between the Batt/Alt and vehicle electrical system. Performing the above procedure will assure you the truck’s electrical system is getting full voltage whether running or stopped. That positive battery cable can pose a problem and I think people can overlook that but it is obviously very important you have all the juice available. If the voltages do NOT match then you have located your culprit. If they DO, we can start working further downstream to perform some additional voltage testing. Also, I want to make sure your transmission is being cooled properly and the heat exchanger is receiving coolant from the radiator. What is the status and condition of the cooling system? Have you recently flushed and filled or ever at all? If the transmission is overheating it is going to go into a funky fail safe mode whereby the transmission is attempting to delay the upshift in a bid to run the RPMs high enough where the water pump can try and push coolant through to the heat exchanger at a faster rate to cool the transmission fluid. performing those initial troubleshooting steps will ensure you have eliminated two common issues that can cause transmission difficulties. once you’ve done that please report back and let us know what you got so we can continue working down towards the transmission/transfer case.

 

Oh and I have made the bold assumption you have a 1st gen L322 but I do not see your trucks specs in you signature. Go ahead over to your account settings and at least give us a better indication of the exact year and configuration of your L322. We do look at that signature area because some of us have different generations of this chassis and thus, if you don’t have a 1st Gen, I’m not sure how much assistance I will be able to provide to you as all of my experience with the L322 is with the 1st Gen BMW version. Thanks

 

May be worth mentioning that my photos above, showing the orientation of the missing spline, were taken with the transfer box on a bench rather than in a vehicle, so they require rotating approximately 30 degrees anti-clockwise to line up with horizontal and vertical for the vehicle. High range is therefore around 11 o’clock and low range around 1 o‘clock

fullfatrr.com - View topic - no low range TD6

www.fullfatrr.com

Obviously, the missing spline’s angular orientation relative to the three mounting holes is correct, whatever the plane of reference

Phil

 

Phill did you ever found out the Ohms on the different settings of the transfer case motor: high/neutral/low?
I have checked the values on my transfer case motor with the original potentiometer and with a swap of a potentiometer I got from amazon.com according to a solution of a other member on his transfer case motor, its in the tread listed.

Here are the values I Have,
original potentiometer installed: HIGH 1.33 / NEUTRAL 2.62 / LOW 3.05
swap potentiometer installed: HIGH 1.00 / NEUTRAL 2.03 / LOW 2.60

so now my question is it better to keep the original potentiometer installed or the swap.
I dont know what values are beter.

 

Hello ArnaudJ, I see you’re having quite a tough time with the transmission and transfer case. I kind of understand what you’re saying about feeling like you are stuck in low gear. So are you saying you’re stuck in like first gear and won’t upshift OR are you saying that it feels like you’re stuck in low RANGE AND can’t up shift out of first gear? A little clarity will help us try and see if we can guide you with some troubleshooting steps. Meanwhile, I see your truck is throwing some under voltage codes (although it appears you are stating your battery is fully charged. Is that correct?). So we could actually start there and find out if A) your battery is indeed fully charged and B) that voltage is being received by the computers. We can do this with a multimeter. Prior to this your battery probably should be load tested but it sounds as though as the transmission horse hockey is obviously happening with the motor running so the battery may be a non issue and can be ruled out. SO, let’s first try, without the motor running, a couple of simple voltage tests. Measure the voltage of the battery (preferably normalized and by that I mean when the vehicle is running, the alternator should be putting out a voltage of somewhere between 14.2-14.4 volts. So the battery would also be showing that voltage. So if you just ran the truck your battery is going to take a few minutes to return to its resting voltage of somewhere in the range of 12.6-13.1 volts. Make sure the battery is at resting voltage, measure the voltage and make a note of what that is. NEXT, open your glovebox and pull a fuse, any fuse really but gain access to a set of fuse terminals. I’d recommend finding the headlight wipers (but you can use any one convenient to you). Now take your probes and measure across those terminals and make a note of THAT voltage. Double check by probing the “live” side of the fuse and a good point there where you can ground the other probe to a metal point on the body. You might have to try one side or the other but I believe the left side fuse terminal is the “hot” side. OK. Now did the voltage of the battery match the two voltages you measured (both of which should be the same) in the fuse box? That should provide you with an indication if the truck’s electrical system is receiving the full voltage from the battery (should be within <.5 volts of each other) if they are you’re good and you can double check that with the motor running (albeit the voltage would be at the running voltage of the alternator). Having done this, you can rule out the positive battery cable as a potential problem. Sometimes, if that cable gets stressed it can cause a significant voltage drop between the Batt/Alt and vehicle electrical system. Performing the above procedure will assure you the truck’s electrical system is getting full voltage whether running or stopped. That positive battery cable can pose a problem and I think people can overlook that but it is obviously very important you have all the juice available. If the voltages do NOT match then you have located your culprit. If they DO, we can start working further downstream to perform some additional voltage testing. Also, I want to make sure your transmission is being cooled properly and the heat exchanger is receiving coolant from the radiator. What is the status and condition of the cooling system? Have you recently flushed and filled or ever at all? If the transmission is overheating it is going to go into a funky fail safe mode whereby the transmission is attempting to delay the upshift in a bid to run the RPMs high enough where the water pump can try and push coolant through to the heat exchanger at a faster rate to cool the transmission fluid. performing those initial troubleshooting steps will ensure you have eliminated two common issues that can cause transmission difficulties. once you’ve done that please report back and let us know what you got so we can continue working down towards the transmission/transfer case.

Hello ArnaudJ, I see you’re having quite a tough time with the transmission and transfer case. I kind of understand what you’re saying about feeling like you are stuck in low gear. So are you saying you’re stuck in like first gear and won’t upshift OR are you saying that it feels like you’re stuck in low RANGE AND can’t up shift out of first gear? A little clarity will help us try and see if we can guide you with some troubleshooting steps. Meanwhile, I see your truck is throwing some under voltage codes (although it appears you are stating your battery is fully charged. Is that correct?). So we could actually start there and find out if A) your battery is indeed fully charged and B) that voltage is being received by the computers. We can do this with a multimeter. Prior to this your battery probably should be load tested but it sounds as though as the transmission horse hockey is obviously happening with the motor running so the battery may be a non issue and can be ruled out. SO, let’s first try, without the motor running, a couple of simple voltage tests. Measure the voltage of the battery (preferably normalized and by that I mean when the vehicle is running, the alternator should be putting out a voltage of somewhere between 14.2-14.4 volts. So the battery would also be showing that voltage. So if you just ran the truck your battery is going to take a few minutes to return to its resting voltage of somewhere in the range of 12.6-13.1 volts. Make sure the battery is at resting voltage, measure the voltage and make a note of what that is. NEXT, open your glovebox and pull a fuse, any fuse really but gain access to a set of fuse terminals. I’d recommend finding the headlight wipers (but you can use any one convenient to you). Now take your probes and measure across those terminals and make a note of THAT voltage. Double check by probing the “live” side of the fuse and a good point there where you can ground the other probe to a metal point on the body. You might have to try one side or the other but I believe the left side fuse terminal is the “hot” side. OK. Now did the voltage of the battery match the two voltages you measured (both of which should be the same) in the fuse box? That should provide you with an indication if the truck’s electrical system is receiving the full voltage from the battery (should be within <.5 volts of each other) if they are you’re good and you can double check that with the motor running (albeit the voltage would be at the running voltage of the alternator). Having done this, you can rule out the positive battery cable as a potential problem. Sometimes, if that cable gets stressed it can cause a significant voltage drop between the Batt/Alt and vehicle electrical system. Performing the above procedure will assure you the truck’s electrical system is getting full voltage whether running or stopped. That positive battery cable can pose a problem and I think people can overlook that but it is obviously very important you have all the juice available. If the voltages do NOT match then you have located your culprit. If they DO, we can start working further downstream to perform some additional voltage testing. Also, I want to make sure your transmission is being cooled properly and the heat exchanger is receiving coolant from the radiator. What is the status and condition of the cooling system? Have you recently flushed and filled or ever at all? If the transmission is overheating it is going to go into a funky fail safe mode whereby the transmission is attempting to delay the upshift in a bid to run the RPMs high enough where the water pump can try and push coolant through to the heat exchanger at a faster rate to cool the transmission fluid. performing those initial troubleshooting steps will ensure you have eliminated two common issues that can cause transmission difficulties. once you’ve done that please report back and let us know what you got so we can continue working down towards the transmission/transfer case.

May be worth mentioning that my photos above, showing the orientation of the missing spline, were taken with the transfer box on a bench rather than in a vehicle, so they require rotating approximately 30 degrees anti-clockwise to line up with horizontal and vertical for the vehicle. High range is therefore around 11 o’clock and low range around 1 o‘clock

fullfatrr.com - View topic - no low range TD6

www.fullfatrr.com

Obviously, the missing spline’s angular orientation relative to the three mounting holes is correct, whatever the plane of reference

Phil

Hello ArnaudJ, I see you’re having quite a tough time with the transmission and transfer case. I kind of understand what you’re saying about feeling like you are stuck in low gear. So are you saying you’re stuck in like first gear and won’t upshift OR are you saying that it feels like you’re stuck in low RANGE AND can’t up shift out of first gear? A little clarity will help us try and see if we can guide you with some troubleshooting steps. Meanwhile, I see your truck is throwing some under voltage codes (although it appears you are stating your battery is fully charged. Is that correct?). So we could actually start there and find out if A) your battery is indeed fully charged and B) that voltage is being received by the computers. We can do this with a multimeter. Prior to this your battery probably should be load tested but it sounds as though as the transmission horse hockey is obviously happening with the motor running so the battery may be a non issue and can be ruled out. SO, let’s first try, without the motor running, a couple of simple voltage tests. Measure the voltage of the battery (preferably normalized and by that I mean when the vehicle is running, the alternator should be putting out a voltage of somewhere between 14.2-14.4 volts. So the battery would also be showing that voltage. So if you just ran the truck your battery is going to take a few minutes to return to its resting voltage of somewhere in the range of 12.6-13.1 volts. Make sure the battery is at resting voltage, measure the voltage and make a note of what that is. NEXT, open your glovebox and pull a fuse, any fuse really but gain access to a set of fuse terminals. I’d recommend finding the headlight wipers (but you can use any one convenient to you). Now take your probes and measure across those terminals and make a note of THAT voltage. Double check by probing the “live” side of the fuse and a good point there where you can ground the other probe to a metal point on the body. You might have to try one side or the other but I believe the left side fuse terminal is the “hot” side. OK. Now did the voltage of the battery match the two voltages you measured (both of which should be the same) in the fuse box? That should provide you with an indication if the truck’s electrical system is receiving the full voltage from the battery (should be within <.5 volts of each other) if they are you’re good and you can double check that with the motor running (albeit the voltage would be at the running voltage of the alternator). Having done this, you can rule out the positive battery cable as a potential problem. Sometimes, if that cable gets stressed it can cause a significant voltage drop between the Batt/Alt and vehicle electrical system. Performing the above procedure will assure you the truck’s electrical system is getting full voltage whether running or stopped. That positive battery cable can pose a problem and I think people can overlook that but it is obviously very important you have all the juice available. If the voltages do NOT match then you have located your culprit. If they DO, we can start working further downstream to perform some additional voltage testing. Also, I want to make sure your transmission is being cooled properly and the heat exchanger is receiving coolant from the radiator. What is the status and condition of the cooling system? Have you recently flushed and filled or ever at all? If the transmission is overheating it is going to go into a funky fail safe mode whereby the transmission is attempting to delay the upshift in a bid to run the RPMs high enough where the water pump can try and push coolant through to the heat exchanger at a faster rate to cool the transmission fluid. performing those initial troubleshooting steps will ensure you have eliminated two common issues that can cause transmission difficulties. once you’ve done that please report back and let us know what you got so we can continue working down towards the transmission/transfer case.

Hello BeL322,

Yeah, this one is challenging me
its a 2003 Range Rover HSE BMW 4.4L (L322)

I performed the electrical test and a test drive.
First question you had about the electrical.
Today before running the engine, I measured 12.4V no running engine.

I measured 14.4V running engine.

Fuse 28 head light cleaning 13.20V running engine
Fuse 28 head light cleaning 11.30V engine turned off

So it looks like I have a 1V drop between battery and Fase panel.

I also checked the Voltage on my "I Carsoft reader" there it states 14.0V <> 13.8V while running. 12.40V when motor off.

About the coolant I have changed 5 months ago all Coolant hoses and water pump.
and in the 5 years I own this RR I have done so many repairers that needed to drain coolant over and over and I always use new I don't reuse old coolant.
I never had a temp signal message.

About the me thinking its stuck in low gear is because of the noise I suddenly had never went away.
its really like a humming noise like I'm driving 4X4 low gear.
I test drove the car this morning. normally I drive automatic so now I drove manually shift to see if it drives in every gear.
And it drives in all gears, gearing up and down all goes well but that humming and little heavy feeling the car is having is weird to me. it normally really drives like a M5.

I recorded the weird humming or whining noise. like a semitruck low gear range. trying to give ideas to understand my noise I'm hearing.

The Low gear switch doesn't respond no light on dash no change in transfer.

RRPhil thanks for your response 2, I have read lots of treads you responded on :0)
I'm talking about they way according to the bolt pattern. so I should be stuck in high then.
because the switch to low doesn't respond.
also I have tried to move that axle with a pliers but it doesn't turn clock wise and counter clock it want to come out.

I can’t copy the sound file in this tread

 

Excellent. well, it looks like your battery is a shade weak but not out of line, alternator looks happy. Overall I think you should investigate the voltage drop, but it definitely sounding like a mechanical issue with the additional info you provided. Seems like you should be ok coolant wise, but I still am a tad curious about the rad. Sediment can build up and although mine was ultra bad, sediment can cause problems. However, aside from that, I wished I could hear that sound you described. You said you recorded it? I wonder what one must do to get a soundfile posted here. I don't think I've really ever seen sound posted, always pictures and video.
But really I wonder, how would you be describe off the line? Is is like a ten speed in first gear where after half a crank your legs are redlining? trying to wrap my head around the acceleration. You can upshift manually, are you gaining significant speed or still motor turning high RPM? You know it doesn't sound like the transmission necessarily. Ive never had the occasion to remove a transfer case from this truck (although I really should get the oil changed in it. I'm bad about that), but I have learned the hard way to get brake fluid flushed and changed about 18-24 months to help extend the life of the calipers. But I digress. could well be you somehow broke a shaft or jammed a lever or fork. I admit I'm not well versed on the transfer case internals but it does truly sound like that it is a mechanical, not electrical, cooling or otherwise issue. That acceleration......
The noise......

About the me thinking its stuck in low gear is because of the noise I suddenly had never went away.
its really like a humming noise like I'm driving 4X4 low gear.
I test drove the car this morning. normally I drive automatic so now I drove manually shift to see if it drives in every gear.
And it drives in all gears, gearing up and down all goes well but that humming and little heavy feeling the car is having is weird to me. it normally really drives like a M5.

 

Furthermore, I think you should read through this thread:

Transfer box program and transfer box neutral message

 

Hi, thanks for your thoughts and time.
yea a small voltage loss I will have to look for.
Also my battery might be on the point of giving up. The evening I place the post I filled the cells just above the plates with distilled water. And charged it.
Maybe I just need to swap that transmission cooler for a new, or are the cleanable when taken of?

I also think it’s mechanical and something with the transfer case box.
like I explained I can’t rotate that splined axle with a good size channel locks pliers.
also the switch doesn’t do anything.
could be the switch but the dash is also not showing that low gear drive ever.
In a topic:
——————————————————
Transfer box problem

Juweb is explaining how to fix the potentio meter: see

Transfer box problem
I've found solution on the actuator or " Transfer Box stuck on LOW or HIGH range"
The problem is the potentiometer or in USA they called Encoding Ring
So you must remove the actuator from the transfer box

• Remove back plate/ 6 torx screws and you will see the black ring or the potentiometer
• There is a ring clip on the shaft holding it in place/ remove it
• disconnect the plug and pull the ring out

Now the important bit how to gen replacement ring or encoder or potentiometer before doing the job

Go to Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Transfer-88962314-Replaces-88962315/dp/B00CD7E248
or search online for the part number:

APDTY 711231 4WD Transfer Case Motor Encoder Ring

When you get it you must remove/ grinder down the two lips/ rings inner and outer together with the square pin from the bottom part of the ring/ you will see it on the photo bellow

just make sure you don't damage the clipping two parts together ring middle of the ring
Insert it / replaced and put the shaft clip back so it's holding the ring in place
Because there is not hexagonal shape seat as on original unit, when you plug it in, must use two pieces of rubber or plastic both sides of the plug to restrict the movement of the ring/ before you should make a photo on the exact position of the ring
Remove the large O-ring which may stop the top part spinning as this new ring is on two parts not like the original which is on 3 parts
Put some silicone on the plate seal to avoid any moisture getting in and screw back the plate
Your Actuator will work fine now only if the motor is OK
That will clear the "LOW/ HIGH range stuck" straight away without need of diagnostic equipment

This part is only $25.20 on amazon.com or brand new actuator / stepper motor will cost you approx. £1,200.00
Than it on my RR L322 Vogue 4.4i 2003 and is working fine now

—————————————————————
so I followed that idea blindly because I was 💯 % sure that was my problem 🙄 didn’t even measure my potentiometer.
what I wil do tomorrow. I will take of the transfer case motor, swap the potentiometer for the old and measure the values.
With the replacement I have the ohms changing according as in the video of YouTube.

 

I have been doing some steps back and installed the old potentiometer and checked if the ohms are changing while spinning.
Also that happens now I don’t know the exact ohms it should give on the 3 different positions of the pictures of RRPhil.
I have to go look in the forem if those have been mentioned.
But I also have never changed / checked oil in transfer box nor differentials only engine and 60mile ago the transmission. 🙄what was I thinking not checken the other 3 parts that need oil.
So I might think now my transfer case is toast.
But also what is weird I don't switch anything with the switch of low gear could it be my TCM is broken 2?
I will check oils today in all those.

 

Hmmm, those values are quite different to the ones that I measured in the past, and they change in the opposite direction. My measurements were:

Low = 1.61 kilo-ohms
Neutral = 3.23 kilo-ohms
High = 4.73 kilo-ohms

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/transfer-box-potentiometer-dimensions-for-gyrogypsy.40567/?post_id=345241#post-345241

I think we must be measuring between different pins?

Phil

 

Hello Again Yeah those measurements were taken on the pins that the video was testing the Ohms on, Pin 2 and 4.

you measure them on hexagon facing you the left outer pin and center right?
If I measure it that way my reading are,
With the original potentiometer installed:
HIGH 3.87
Neutral 2.80
Low 1.46
With the swapped potentiometer installed:
HIGH 2.70
Neutral 1.97
Low 2.00

Still a difference between my and your readings and between my original and imitation potentiometer.
We don’t know what is the tolerance by BMW, but I believe my original is a better bet. So I swapped that one back in the transfer Motor.

I also mentioned, I had never checked or refreshed oil in transfer case.
I did check it yesterday and the oil coming out of the transfer case was very clear still and no debris in it, Put new Fresh oil back in.

Is there a way to test the TCM?
I have checked the box and it’s all dry also all connections on TCM are looking good no oxidation.
I was not expecting any other outcome but I have to check.

Is it possible to swap a Transfer box from the bottom of the carwhile transmission/motor stay in place,
Any special tricks I should know to save me time or bad words 😁

When I decide to swap the transfer box and the one I have seen, comes with its original transfer case motor.
I want to ask if they can trow the TCM in the deal 2.
Do I need programming because of the TCM? Trying to avoid that Sins I can’t do it at home.
And if swapping transfer motor involves programming, can I Avoid it if I use the potentimeter out that motor in mine?

Sorry lots of questions trying to absorb so much information as possible before I have to wait 24hours before I might get some update 😇

Thank you RRPhil and Bel322

 

Can we just rewind a bit? Is all this because you believe that your transfer box is stuck in low range? The transfer box ratio in low is (49+83)/49 = 2.6939. Therefore, in 5th gear, the driveline ratio would be only 11mph/1000rpm for the 5HP24 (with the converter locked). Are you saying that the engine is revving at 2750 rpm at 30mph and 3600rpm at 40mph in top gear?

Phil

 

Can we just rewind a bit? Is all this because you believe that your transfer box is stuck in low range? The transfer box ratio in low is (49+83)/49 = 2.6939. Therefore, in 5th gear, the driveline ratio would be only 11mph/1000rpm for the 5HP24 (with the converter locked). Are you saying that the engine is revving at 2750 rpm at 30mph and 3600rpm at 40mph in top gear?

Phil

Hello Phil,
I don’t know what really is wrong I got this humming noise that suddenly poppet up weeks ago and can’t figure out what it is.
Then I tried to switch low gear button and nothing happens and no light on dash.
so I thought maybe it’s stuck in low gear.

I performed a test drive and manual in 5 gear drive 35 mph 2000rpm and 40 mph 1750rpm
I tried to drive 30mph was not able to due to the traffic around me.
So no I’m not getting the RPM according your calculation 🤔 so what is going on.

 

So your transfer box is definitely in high range.

The ‘noise on actuator signal’ message indicates an issue with the shift motor potentiometer, which is probably why you can’t select low range, but I suspect this has nothing to do with the noise/vibration that you’re describing.

A common issue with the 5HP24, at higher mileages, is wear of the torque converter lock-up clutch friction plate. The LUC piston has a stroke of around only 1mm, so the extra clearance created by wear can cause the clutch to stick/slip which produces a vibration/noise similar to driving over a cattle grid (I think you call them cattle grates or stock gaps in the US). A good test point is at 30mph up a slight incline. The lock-up clutch is fully engaged above 56mph so the noise never appears above this speed. It also doesn’t engage at very low speeds (under 20mph, say). Can we rule this out as a possible cause of your noise, or not?

Phil

 

Hello Phil,

I’m going to try that out. I know a slight incline near by.
now we are going to get a blizzard storm here so I have to be able to perform the test before it happens.
I will update soon.

thanks for your time and knowledge 👍🏻

 

Don’t worry about step 16. We aren’t actually trying to calibrate your shift motor – just trying to see if it will move between ranges. So there’s nothing happening when you try to select low range? The low range indicator light in the gear selector display doesn’t start flashing?

Phil

 

No it doesn’t flash in the dash.
Never not when I turn the key on.
Not when operating the switch.
And it has worked in the past not that long ago.

 

So it could just be the switch that's faulty?

Phil

 

Is that measurable ?
or do I need to find one and hoping that one is not faulty too?