The Cats DO GO OUT with this BMW engine. Do a search for BMW M62 engine Cats.

Cats are killed in this motor due to leaking valve cover gaskets that foul spark plugs and then dump unused fuel into the cats. The hot cats ignite the fuel and blow out the cats.

There are a couple tests. The most common is the rattle test. Hit the cat.... does it rattle.

If you have a good dealer. Take the truck to them and tell them that you hear a rattle from the exhaust. If it is going bad and you keep complaining they typically can find it

 

A couple of comments questions on this...

The Cats DO GO OUT with this BMW engine. Do a search for BMW M62 engine Cats.

If the cats go out with this engine, either there is a problem with the cat, or the engine has a serious problem related to the emissions control. Either way, the feds would not be too happy or tolerant of either being a design trend.

Cats are killed in this motor due to leaking valve cover gaskets that foul spark plugs and then dump unused fuel into the cats. The hot cats ignite the fuel and blow out the cats.

A leaking valve cover gasket would not foul a plug. It would give you an oil leak, but not past the plug into the cylinder. A fouled plug would show up long (OBD) before destroying a catalytic converter, unless the vehicle is driven during a catastrophic failure that could flood the converter, like a failed ignition coil.

There are a couple tests. The most common is the rattle test. Hit the cat.... does it rattle.

As secure as the converters are, you'd really need to whack them pretty hard to shake anything loose in there. Probably damage it more from beating it than the misfire/flooding. If the ceramic/platinum honeycomb is broken loose, you would likely hear a momentary rattle from normal operations, like when you start the engine or rev the engine.

If you have a good dealer. Take the truck to them and tell them that you hear a rattle from the exhaust. If it is going bad and you keep complaining they typically can find it

Anything related to emissions control has a mandated warranty period that exceeds the standard warranty; check your owner's manual for details. It includes things like the EGR, catalytic converters, things that keeps the vehicle environmentally friendly. Mandated by the federal government. The converters will theoretically last forever, but with age, events and impurities, the may eventually go out. But unless you have a really bad misfire problem that you don't get fixed, or contaminated fuel, maybe a little diesel, it should easily last well beyond 80k miles. n Not that it's impossible, but... They're not cheap either, due to the platinum.

 

Mine was just replaced on an 04 with only 45k miles. Service engine light was on, they replaced the o2 sensor and 10 miles from dealer the engine light was on again. Took it back and they said it was the Cat Convertor.

 

hey there. I have a 2004 hse with only 55k miles on it and the check engine light is on and stays on. And now its time to renew my tag and car failed inspection. I took to a mechanic that said I have to replace timing chain, guides & tensioner gaskets $4k... can you share with me a general cost for what you paid to do cat convertor job and is that the same as replacing timing chain? The car drives great as is but the check engine light will not go off and I can't pass emissions. I am flustered as what to do and trying to make a logical decision on the truck. I absolutely love it and again it drives and looks brand-new so its hard to throw it out. I don't mind maintaining a car but i don't want to always be spending thousands every time i turn around. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. thanks

 

I just had mine replaced as well.
Only 48,000 miles on the truck.
The only indication I got was the CEL gave off the code P1170

The dealer also replaced the 02 sensor(s), everything was covered under warranty.
They even gave me a nice Toyota Avalon to drive while it was in the shop.

 

Based on the parts your mechanic recommended, your issues are not related to the catalytic converter. And cat problem are rare at 55k miles. But that's also early for timing chain problems. Do you have any awareness of previous maintenance on your RR, oil change intervals, etc.? Don't freak out about this problem, doesn't necessarily mean other things will follow. But you are driving a 17 year old, highly complicated, European vehicle. You need to keep up on routine maintenance, so triggered by time since your miles are so low. Then expect a few repairs. Your engine is built by BMW so the timing chain work can be done by anyone familiar with the BMW V8.

 

oh wow, thank you for the info and for the good vibes to keep the faith! like i said i love the truck and will not give up yet.. the code its giving now is p0021 / intake camshaft timing over heated... i was thinking it just needs a sensor? do you have any info on that code i should explore? thank you!

 

i bought it because of the bmw v8 engine.. but none of the land rover techs will not touch it because its bmw motor.. which is a pain.. and i've always had bmws so i have fantastic tech but he won't touch it because its a land rover.. lol.. it seems like i can't win with finding a solid tech to work on it in Asheville NC.. oy

 

Hello I am wondering if there is anyone out there who has some knowledge on my pickle. I have a 2010 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. I have pretty much replaced almost everything you can on this vehicle like most Range Rover Owners it is a love hate relationship. My situation is this ...... I been having some issues over the past few weeks ever since it became extremely cold outside. I was originally having trouble turning the vehicle over when would i push the button to start. I take it to a garage they said to change the battery in which I did... Still every once in a while i have trouble turning it over the dealership stated it could most likely be the Alternator. I begin having some performance issues while still having the hard time turning the engine over ... This started all during this past few weeks... This past Friday I take it back to my local garage and these guys are good , however busy ... they hook up the scanner and it reads the codes for replacing both Catalytic Converters which I see for myself his scanner is indeed reading that..... The garage said I will get back to you on Monday.... Well yesterday I stalled out in the middle of the intersection , mean while it is cold outside still...though.... When the vehicle stalled I did finally see the little RED Battery Censor light go off next to the Check Engine light. The vehicle did start back up .... When speaking with the garage today he states you have a few issues going on ..... So my question would be do you think a bad alternator would throw catalytic converter censors to go off and would a bad alternator cause the car to not only stall but also drag some with performance..... or do you think we have multiple issues such as the converters do need replaced as well as the alternator?? Also the garage said it could be the timing chain as well... however it was running great up until about a week ago ..... and FINALLY the converters are looking like they will cost me about 7700 dollars plus another 1700 for the alternator pretty consistent among everywhere I called ...... I did find a garage that would do the work of the catalytic converters for 3200 dollars which I like to move forward with. the gentleman stated that they are aftermarket converters...but made for the range rover.... should I trust it and will he have any issues with censors going off or censors that he will not be able to reset ..... I hate to see the guy put the converters in then I have more censors going off or cant clear any that may come up ..... he is an old school guy that does have a scanner just not a fancy range rover one... I know I thrown a lot out there I just need to know if aftermarket converters are ok to put on and or will he have a nightmare with censors going on after in which i have to take to the dealership and they cause me grief for putting the aftermarket ones in and they wont or cant clear censors without putting the range rover converters in... I hope this all makes some sense to someone out there my email is stimp52@yahoo.com if there is someone who can help or want to talk offline..... Thanks so much Everyone!

 

You should post this as a new thread in the section for RR Sport. Meanwhile, buy yourself a battery trickle charger to charge your battery and multimeter to diagnose your charging problem. RR's don't like low voltage and will throw all kinds of CEL codes when it happens. Not saying all if fine but eliminate low voltage and go from there. And your alternator is about a $400 part so I would only expect $1700 to be from a dealer.

 

 

Thanks yes that is from dealer the alternator pricing. Also I will look into that so you think there's a chance it could be the alternator throwing codes that are saying it's a catalytic converter issue .. I really appreciate your response.

 

One of these places should be able to give you a code read out. You could --need to-- buy a LR code reader. It will pay for itself after 2-3 issues. If you can provide codes this site can help you a lot more. Throwing parts at a LR is the hardest and most expensive way to fix problems. When you're looking at 10k+ into a 2010 vehicle I would be **** sure this will be the end of it before I committed... Strongly advise getting a scan tool or at the very least a list of codes.

 

One of these places should be able to give you a code read out. You could --need to-- buy a LR code reader. It will pay for itself after 2-3 issues. If you can provide codes this site can help you a lot more. Throwing parts at a LR is the hardest and most expensive way to fix problems. When you're looking at 10k+ into a 2010 vehicle I would be **** sure this will be the end of it before I committed... Strongly advise getting a scan tool or at the very least a list of codes.

I appreciate that I am definitely looking at scanners I need to bite bullet and get a LR scanner ... There is so many out there I been looking at several different ones I need a true LR scanner. Thanks for the advice I never used this forum or site before you guys have all been a big help in guidance. Great forum!

Hi,

Please before allowing anybody to touch your timming chain, change the chain tensioner located on the passenger side of the engine. The tensioner was changed to a new design with a stronger spring and a lot M62 engine owners are not aware of the change. Search the internet, there was someone from England that explained the code and solving the problem with changing the tensioner to the new one.
I had the same issue on my 2003 RR with112,000 miles and it solved the problem. Your truck millage is about half of mine. If you are using a full synthetic oil with a good grade, please change the tensioner for now and it might solve your problem.
Thanks.

Omooba.

Awesome I will look into that first for sure thanks so much for the information!!!

 

Right on right 🤙thank you !