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Hardwiring a radar detector

48K views 52 replies 29 participants last post by  timbrehse  
#1 · (Edited)
Since the original thread disappeared a while back from this forum but I saved the pictures, I thought I'd repost the instructions on how I hardwired a Valentine One on my 2006 RRS for future reference. This takes 10-15 minutes.

First, grab the front edge of the overhead console with the tip of your fingers and pull down firmly, the console should come loose and open up without much effort:


The arrows in the image below show the connections of the hardwiring kit included with the V1 (other radar detectors will likely be wired in similar fashion.) On the right, the red wire draws 12v power from a switched green/white lead in the harness for the overhead lights. The black ground wire is connected to a bolt above the overhead panel. The third arrow indicates the body of the hardwiring harness that powers the detector via RJ11 (modular phone) jack.


Detail of the hot connection to the overhead lights harness. Make sure you pick the striped green/white wire only, the others are either not 12v or they are unswitched and your radar either won't turn on at all or will stay on all the time... The Valentine includes a handy self-tapping connector in the kit - the blue piece around the green/white wire - which eliminates the need for splicing or cutting and leaves no traces of tampering if you ever need to remove the radar (such as on a leased car): you simply slide the connector around the wire, squeeze it with a pair of pliers to score the insulation and tap into the 12v lead, and finally slide the male faston at the end of the red wire into the female faston on the blue connector.


To ground the detector (the black wire), slightly loosen one of the bolts above the panel with a 13mm socket, slide the spade clamp at the end of the black wire between washer and overhead metal plate, and tighten the bolt:


Here is an image of the hardwiring harness body where the radar detector plugs into. I attached it above the overhead console using the provided Velcro tape, there are plenty of nooks and crannies up there. The radar detector is wired to the Main Unit plug via modular phone jack. Note the unused "Accessory" plug, which in the V1 can be used for an optional, remote display mounted elsewhere in the car. As you can barely see in the picture, I bundled up the excess black and red wiring and inline fuse holder from the hardwiring harness with a zip tie, and placed the bundle above the headliner on the side of the overhead panel opening:


I chose installation of the radar detector just to the left of the rear view mirror. The phone jack and cord easily slide between headliner and windshield, and the "tinted" part behind the rear view mirror makes the wire almost invisible:


And here is the finished installation from the driver's perspective. After wiring everything up, test to make sure you get power to the detector. Don't forget you need to turn on the ignition AND radar detector first! If you get juice flowing, you are done. Carefully align the two plastic studs in the rear of the overhead console with the cutouts in the headliner, and push the front of the overhead panel up against the roof until it snaps back in place. With this type of installation, the detector will automatically turn on when you open the doors with the remote or start the car, and will turn off about 3-4 minutes after you remove the key from the ignition, or right away if you arm the alarm.
 
#27 ·
I notice the detector is mounted to the left of the dark shaded area directly behind the rear view mirror. Is this done for a reason?

Does the detector not work if it is mounted directly behind the rear view mirror in the dark "tinted" area?

It seems like in the sample photos,the radar would be in the way of the sun visor?
 
#28 ·
Couple of reasons: The shaded / tinted area above the rear view mirror is a bit textured and not smooth like glass, so getting the suction cups of the detector mount to stick would be more challenging. You'd have to smoothen that textured surface with some layers of packaging tape or something similar to get the suction cups to stick securely. Also, the V1 specifically (this may not apply to other detectors) needs the rear firing radar/laser sensor to have a view of the rear of the car (through the rear window) as unobstructed as possible to spot bogeys approaching from behind with plenty of advance notice. With the detector mounted so high above the mirror, the view of that sensor would be partially obstructed by headliner and overhead console, decreasing its coverage and effectiveness.

The detector doesn't get in the way of the sun visor when mounted to the left of the tinted area, thanks to the slanted windshield of the Sport it sits quite a bit forward of the visor.
 
#29 ·
Update: I've had no issues with the V1 mounted below the mirror and haven't gotten any false laser readings. I'm not sure if this has been posted anywhere, but, from here on out, RRS's won't come with voice control, meaning there's a blank button on the steering wheel. I'm thinking of turning it into a remote V1 mute button. I'm hoping the button is still powered, meaning I could have it etched with the V1 logo...
 
#30 ·
Has anyone had experience hardwiring a radar detector into wiring under the dash on the driver's side or behind the center console with the ventilation controls?

The reason I ask is that I have a Passport 9500xi Directwire Connector with the mute button attached to the cable and it only has 3 feet of cable between the mute switch and the fuse connection to the electrical system / ground (and 8 feet of cable from the mute switch to the detector). So I need to wire it under the dash so I can mount the switch with velco under the steering wheel within reach while driving. I will then run the wire the detector and mount it under the mirror.

If you have done this before, please advise on which wires you connected the detector to (my connector is similar to the V1 and connects by puncturing the existing wire cover) and how to access that area in the SUV.

Any suugestions would be appreciated, thanks
 
#31 ·
I don't see a green/white wire in the 09 RR HSE. Anymore info on what switched source was used, i.e. sun roof switch? or light console? something else. I found plenty of sources that are +12v while the truck is on, just looking for a short cut instead of waiting for them to time out to verify an ignition wire.
 
#32 ·
You should ask on the MkIII forum instead as someone may have found a better power source, but there is a red / yellow striped wire in the dome light harness of the big Range that's switched 12v (although it will cut off juice to the detector several minutes after you turn off the ignition and lock the doors remotely, not instantly like in the Sport.)
 
#33 ·
Even though this thread is pretty old, i just want to say thanks Umberto for your instructions. Following your instructions made the installation pretty easy. I just finished up wiring the 9500ix gamer edition and the only thing i had to do was to extend the hard wiring kit from Escort so that the power and ground cable reached the map lights from the smart wire module i installed underneath the drivers side dash. 6 ft of 20 gauge speaker wire did the trick. Only thing i noticed was that my radar detector never turns off if i don't lock the car which is weird since that means that green/white wire on my car stays hot unless i lock the doors. I waited about 10 minutes to see if it turns off but never did. I don't know if anybody else is experiencing the same issue. I would also love to mount the radar to the mirror but my search came up with nothing on mounting brackets that fits specifically the Range Rover Sport mirrors. Even the blendmount ones didn't seem like it would fit by the mirror stem. Other than that everything looks good. Best part about the detector is it actually matches the interior green. Here are some pics of the install if you guys are interested.



 
#35 ·
I did this and i don’t remember taking bolts out to remove the Internal light cluster -- I think its a snap in fit -- After the cluster is removed I undid A bolt to use as an earth only
 
#37 ·
I hardwired my escort in my 2008 RRS. The Blendmount DID work just fine, but the little cable you plug into the escort has to be routed through the rear-view mirror cover (the huge black plastic piece behind the rear view mirror). It pops off, then you have to carefully drill a hole in the two halves of the plastic so the hole is in the center of the two halves. Then the wire goes right up BEHIND the rear view mirror and disappears into the black plastic rear view mirror cover (where it then goes up into the headliner, but completely hidden as it goes up into the headliner from within the black plastic cover.
 
#38 ·
Just did this last night and the pics speaks thousands. Very helpful and now it works. V1 close to roof. Thanks umbertob!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#39 ·
I'd like to use this tutorial to hardwire a dashcam as the instructions seem to be pretty straight forward for a novice like myself to follow. The blue clips used to join the wires together would be ideal for me to use.....Does anyone know what these clips are called or where I could get them online? I am guessing they come with the radar detection unit that you guys have been installing, but I am hoping someone might be able to point me to where i might grab some for my dashcam instal. Thanks guys.
 
#40 ·
The dash cam will work just fine in lieu of - or in addition to - the radar detector, I have my front one wired the same way to the overhead console lights and it works very well, unless you want your dash can to continue recording while parked: Just like the radar detector, a dash camera will stop recording and shut off when you turn off the ignition and lock your doors with the remote. T-tap connectors are easy to find at many auto parts stores, or online. Example: http://www.wiringproducts.com/quick-slide-connectors#prettyPhoto. For the very thin wiring above our overhead console that you are going to tap into, you may actually want to use a connector for thinner (22-18 AWG) wire than the blue one supplied by Valentine with its detector kit, which is ideal for for slightly heavier gauge, 16-14 AWG wire.
 
#41 ·
Browsed the forum a bit and came along this interesting topic, to bad it's illegal in the Netherlands, police has devices to detect this detectors, they have detector-detectors..... €250 fine and seizure. No detector-detectors in CA, UK and US !? All legal !? If so, bit jealous.... here is 10 km to hard a fine of €100, every K a €10....
 
#45 ·
valentine 1 has VG2 technology making it invisible to detector devices. I would detect the escorts and the silver bullet with my V1.
 
#46 ·
bringing back on old thread here but I finally bought my wife a escort redline and hardwired it last week. Had an old escort 8500x50 that I put in for a week before replacing it with the redline. When I hardwired it, the 8500 worked fine turning on and off, but with the redline, I get a low voltage warning and it powers down as soon as the engine is turned off. So when I start the car back up, I have to manually turn the RL back on. anyone else experience a "low Voltage" message? I checked the ground and wire connections, and they are both fine. 2010 sport btw
 
#48 ·
got fed up so i just ran a telephone wire from the detector all the way to the back of the truck to the 12v in the trunk. Coupled it with the smart cord and works great now with a 13v reading. I ran the cord down the drivers side pillar and through the plastic foot guard/carpet near the doors. Can't see the cord at all yay!
 
#50 ·
Hi dkim12 - I was able to hardwire mine today and didn't have any low voltage problems. Just wanted to report back my experience. I know u already wired it to the power outlet in the boot but if you are thinking of wiring it back to umbertob's way, I'm assuming the connection to the hot wire (white and green) might be the issue. I actually cut the plastic covering on the wire before using the t-taps (14/16gauge) for a better connection. Also check your ground connection as well.
 
#49 ·
I had a radar detector hard wired to my 2008 RRS the same way and didn't have any issues regarding low voltage. I haven't tried the same on my new RRS but i will try to wire it this week sometime and will report back.