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Hardwiring a radar detector

48K views 52 replies 29 participants last post by  timbrehse  
#1 · (Edited)
Since the original thread disappeared a while back from this forum but I saved the pictures, I thought I'd repost the instructions on how I hardwired a Valentine One on my 2006 RRS for future reference. This takes 10-15 minutes.

First, grab the front edge of the overhead console with the tip of your fingers and pull down firmly, the console should come loose and open up without much effort:


The arrows in the image below show the connections of the hardwiring kit included with the V1 (other radar detectors will likely be wired in similar fashion.) On the right, the red wire draws 12v power from a switched green/white lead in the harness for the overhead lights. The black ground wire is connected to a bolt above the overhead panel. The third arrow indicates the body of the hardwiring harness that powers the detector via RJ11 (modular phone) jack.


Detail of the hot connection to the overhead lights harness. Make sure you pick the striped green/white wire only, the others are either not 12v or they are unswitched and your radar either won't turn on at all or will stay on all the time... The Valentine includes a handy self-tapping connector in the kit - the blue piece around the green/white wire - which eliminates the need for splicing or cutting and leaves no traces of tampering if you ever need to remove the radar (such as on a leased car): you simply slide the connector around the wire, squeeze it with a pair of pliers to score the insulation and tap into the 12v lead, and finally slide the male faston at the end of the red wire into the female faston on the blue connector.


To ground the detector (the black wire), slightly loosen one of the bolts above the panel with a 13mm socket, slide the spade clamp at the end of the black wire between washer and overhead metal plate, and tighten the bolt:


Here is an image of the hardwiring harness body where the radar detector plugs into. I attached it above the overhead console using the provided Velcro tape, there are plenty of nooks and crannies up there. The radar detector is wired to the Main Unit plug via modular phone jack. Note the unused "Accessory" plug, which in the V1 can be used for an optional, remote display mounted elsewhere in the car. As you can barely see in the picture, I bundled up the excess black and red wiring and inline fuse holder from the hardwiring harness with a zip tie, and placed the bundle above the headliner on the side of the overhead panel opening:


I chose installation of the radar detector just to the left of the rear view mirror. The phone jack and cord easily slide between headliner and windshield, and the "tinted" part behind the rear view mirror makes the wire almost invisible:


And here is the finished installation from the driver's perspective. After wiring everything up, test to make sure you get power to the detector. Don't forget you need to turn on the ignition AND radar detector first! If you get juice flowing, you are done. Carefully align the two plastic studs in the rear of the overhead console with the cutouts in the headliner, and push the front of the overhead panel up against the roof until it snaps back in place. With this type of installation, the detector will automatically turn on when you open the doors with the remote or start the car, and will turn off about 3-4 minutes after you remove the key from the ignition, or right away if you arm the alarm.
 
#6 ·
rogan said:
Just one quick note: those blue connector thingies are a bit prone to failure. If the V1 stops working then the first place to check is that connection.
True, I think that those provided with the V1 were designed to wrap around a slightly thicker gage wire than the one on our overhead console. If you get intermittent juice or no power at all to the detector, you can take out the U-shaped metal blade within the blue case of the connector and squeeze the edges with a pair of pliers to slightly close the gap for the wire, insuring a tighter connection.
 
#8 ·
a) yes , same wiring on the 2010. However I will share that I chose the wrong Green/white cable in my haste and had the V1 on/off switch opening the sunroof (Seriously ! :lol: )
b) As for that BMW headrest/V1 setup. Just brilliant. I would never have the cajones to attack my vehicle so.

Also worth a mention is this link to a guy who will change the Remote V1 Display Module to have a rear jack and therefore place it flush (alot of the Lotus guys do this)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-THIN-Valenti ... 35a4b6ccf8
 
#10 ·
Just got a V1 from my wife for Christmas! Will be hardwiring it tomorrow...
 
#13 ·
I have the heated windshield and have noted no adverse effects on the sensitivity of the detector. I rarely do get false laser alerts, but I think they are mostly due to light reflections off the hood (as well as the occasional Infiniti with active laser cruise control passing by... :evil: ) rather than the proximity to auto wipers / headlights sensors. I know that the touchscreen display can trigger laser alerts if you keep the detector close enough to it, but if you position it above the rear view mirror that should not be an issue.
 
#14 ·
I have been using the V1 for about 15k miles. I followed Umberto's directions and didn't have any trouble at all.

I think the sensitivity is pretty good. I do get occasional false laser alerts that usually come from Infiniti systems.

The bigges problem I have is that Radar guns are usually off and the cops around here just seem to watch for people driving faster than others. I leave my detector on the little
L mode. I'm curious to know what others are using. I have mine mounted in the same place as Umberto. Anyone have an opinion on optimal positioning?
 
#15 ·
I have mine in Advanced Logic (big L) mode, and also used the "unadvertised" V1 programming to permanently disable X-band detection. No self-respecting local police depts, CHP officers and photo traps around here use X-band radar guns anymore, they are all on K or Ka (or laser) bands, so muting X-band eliminated 90% of false alerts from supermarket automatic doors, garage openers and similar junk for me... :D YMMV, depending on what your local traffic enforcement agencies use.
 
#17 ·
Just some advice...there are at least two green/white leads in the overhead. When I first got my V1 wired in I was controlling my sunroof by turning the unit on and off :lol: . I believe that the green/white wire you want to make the connection to is located in the front right side of the overhead. Correct me if I'm wrong.
When it's all wired in correctly it works great!
 
#19 ·
vrracr said:
one question: if i don't lock the car, the radar will just remain on? will it kill the battery eventually?
As indicated in the writeup, it will turn off if you leave your car unlocked (takes a couple of minutes for the electronics to shut down in the RRS, and about the same time for the radar detector to turn off.) The power draw of these detectors is so small than even if the V1 did stay on all the time - and it won't - I doubt it would make any significant dent in your battery charge.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the write-up/pics - I just hardwired my V1! As MakeItSo said, there are two green/white wires, so make sure you go for the one that's not connected to the sunroof controls. Anyways, after talking to a Porsche fanatic and friend of mine, I mounted the V1 in a slightly different spot, below the rearview mirror so that it's more centrally located and can "see" more clearly out the rear window. Plus, I tested mounting it up high, and I don't like how the visor can hit it and knock it upward. If anyone is wondering, the wire is barely visible, as it's easy to tuck behind the mirror bracket. Here are two pics (sorry for the iPhone pics):

Image

Image
 
#22 ·
I actually tried that position myself at first after reading some similar recommendations on other forums. Didn't like it for a couple of reasons: interference from the touchscreen (don't know if they were reflections off the monitor or the white hood of my car, but I was getting lots of false laser alerts there.) Also, it was a long stretch to reach the mute knob in case of false alerts, and if you have a V1 you're going to get plenty of those, trust me.

Finally, having it smack in the middle of the windshield made me so "obvious", both to a cop following me and to detector thieves, that in the end I decided for the higher and less conspicuous location to the left of the mirror. The eye of the V1 can still see through the rear window as far as I can tell.
 
#23 ·
umbertob said:
Didn't like it for a couple of reasons: interference from the touchscreen (don't know if they were reflections off the monitor or the white hood of my car, but I was getting lots of false laser alerts there.) Also, it was a long stretch to reach the mute knob in case of false alerts, and if you have a V1 you're going to get plenty of those, trust me.

Finally, having it smack in the middle of the windshield made me so "obvious", both to a cop following me and to detector thieves, that in the end I decided for the higher and less conspicuous location to the left of the mirror. The eye of the V1 can still see through the rear window as far as I can tell.
The false alerts are a huge pain, so unless I'm on the interstate I keep the volume pretty low. As for interference, I'll keep y'all updated as to whether I get false laser alerts with it here. The spot is definitely more conspicuous, so I'll have to see how I feel about it in the next week or so (less worried about cops following than about theft). Also, how do you turn X-band off? I've literally never noticed an actual cop using X (and no cameras in my area so can't comment there).
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
i have a 07 RRS and I do not have a green/white to the harness that feeds the light console. I have a red/blue, white/brown, brown, grey red, and red/yellow and only red/blue has power with the light on and using a power indicator on the brown/white actually flips the lights on and off.

where am I missing the green/white wire? (other than the one on the sunroof switch)..

thanks!