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With enough money and time (=more money) you can do anything. The question is if it is worth it in the end. Aside from the physical bits and the wiring harness, getting the transmission ECU to work properly with the ECM ECU will be a challenge (they are different all the way down to the comms with other modules as we have recently been forced to discover). Then you'll have to reprogram the EAT ECU as shift points, kick down, etc for the V8 will not be suited to the diesel. And (just as an aside) if I were to go through the all the trouble of trying to undertake a project such as this I certainly would not stick with the 5spd gearbox.

It will not be worth it though unless undertaking Quixotic challenges is a hobby. Get the Sonax bits, rebuild the transmission and be done (you can also buy valve bodies with the Sonax bits installed: Google Valve-body-express). If properly done, your transmission ought to last a good long time like that.

And the 5l40E actually shifts more nicely than the ZF. Honest!
 
And the 5l40E actually shifts more nicely than the ZF. Honest!
no way!
anyway it was designed for small cars
but maybe you like it off road..
i also admit that it will be - cash and time consuming project retrofitting an 6hp when when you can buy the l322 6hp version with some extra cash.
but i like the bmw engine in a really "sir" car.
and a Panzer.
hey,what about an 6le?
 
Great thread. Thank you very much RRPhil!

There is a documented problem with forward clutch tolerances in 5L40E.
BMW has a bulletin and a software update to alleviate the issue.

I am wondering if this flaw could have destroyed the forward clutch in
RRPhil's transmission. Indeed the problem affected BMWs manufactured up
to November 2003. This wouldn't directly explain the TCC wear though.

Some information:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-490057.html
http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/lounge/7349d1147733761-has-anyone-else-had-problem-img0.pdf
 
Discussion starter · #105 ·
......It’s unfortunate that I don’t have the necessary flow kit to be able to measure the valve leakages and prove this......
Anxious, as ever, to reach new levels of geekdom I’ve now put together some simple vacuum test equipment for valve blocks so that I can establish & quantify the levels of wear between the various spools and the block

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My system follows the lines suggested by Sonnax http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/315/original/Vacuum_Test_Equipment_Set-up.pdf?1295986842 and seems to work very well. The photo below shows a high mileage ZF 5HP24 upper valve block still ‘pulling’ -0.96 bar across the proportional solenoids' pressure reduction valve, despite its age

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Phil
 
Anxious, as ever, to reach new levels of geekdom I’ve now put together some simple vacuum test equipment for valve blocks so that I can establish & quantify the levels of wear between the various spools and the block
Phil
You never cease to amaze, Phil :lol:
The name RRPhil will soon rival the name Ashcroft when it comes to LR transmissions!

Unfortunately, I may need a rebuildable core... Did you end up selling any of the bits off this one?
 
Discussion starter · #112 ·
Gasket & seal kits are available from Land Rover for the 5L40-E (Part numbers TGM500031 & TGM000040) but both Transtec and Precision International are well known suppliers to the automatic transmission rebuild industry.

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Phil
 
Good Morning, I am new just few months old to site. I have a 2004 RR HSE and have read the post about the Torque Converter going bad and will need replacing. RRhil mentioned www.jpat.co.uk in one of his posts. I have contacted them and they are asking if it is fitted with "the GM5L40E transmission". Don't all 2004 petrol have this tranny? I am also receiving P0705 is that the inhibitor switch.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Very interesting thread!

I have a problem with gears 4 & 5 on my 5L40E transmission, they are gone.
If i manage to shift manually to 4th or 5th it's like to have it in Neutral, engine revs and no thrust forward.

Transmission fluid is clean and bright red (previous owner must have changed it before i bought the car, it's a high mileage 2002).
The transmission enters Fail-safe mode and sets OBD codes P0734 & P0735, Incorrect gear ratio on 4th and 5th.

I just got this car, a BMW 330xd (4wd) -02, and if to manually shift between R, 1, 2, 3 it seems to run just fine and does not go into fail-safe mode.
I drove it on 3rd gear to get it home, 450 km @ 80km/h (280 miles @ 50 mph)

Any ideas?
 
Discussion starter · #116 ·
Losing 4th & 5th gears in the 5L40-E is most likely due to loss of direct clutch drive to the rear epicyclic carrier assembly

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Sorry to sound so pessimistic but the usual reason is that the direct clutch drum and shaft assembly has failed (it’s a well known weak point in this transmission). Forum member SteveMFr discussed exactly this issue with David Ashcroft (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk) some time ago – it’s what Mr. Ashcroft describes as the ‘toilet-paper-roll-shaft’. “This shaft is apparently manufactured by winding a piece of steel in the same fashion that cardboard is wound to make a toilet paper roll. It apparently unwinds and expands making the box a total loss”. This can be seen quite clearly in the photo below which I copied off a German transmission repairer’s website (http://www.automatikgetriebeprofi.de)

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Phil
 
Could this shaft break without leaving debris in the oil?
So I guess my hope for just a broken valve body is lost.

Anyway, today I located a used transmission from a private seller for a reasonable price, he claims it was totally refurbished a couple of years ago but I guess I will know how it runs when i fit it. But it's one heavy piece of equipment that's for sure! it will be interesting to balance it on a hydraulic jack under the car...
 
HI Phil,
Excellent thread, all of us gearbox ignoring people out here thank you greatly for it :clap:
I am new to forums and haven't figured out yet how to PM you, but I would greatly appreciate a few minutes of your time to pick your brains about what parts would be required to rebuild my GM 5l40-E "PROPERLY" so to speak…
It is with a highly recommended gearbox specialist at the moment, but I'm not sure if he understands about fixing the source of the problem, not just the problem itself, and I don't yet know enough about it to explain it to him properly. I only know what I have read from your posts :smile:
Is there some way I can get hold of you with out having to bore the rest of the forum with my silly questions?
Many thanks :).
 
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