I'm sure.. I didn't bring it to the dealership its @ a indy shop & there always good to me..I just spoke to them they said my car will be ready tomorrow afternoon. .. wait till I show you guys the pic of my brake line........... its got a huge bubble in it..I have never seen a brake line do that before...

 

Ok - then I'm mistaken about KY jelly, thought it was the dealer. As the great actor, Steven Segal said in one of his great movies, assumption is the greatest of all f** ups.

 

So I fixed both lower tables wheel bearing and brake line 1000 $ later...they didn't have time today to do the wheel alignment so its off real bad... anyhow I drove 3 km and the car is now saying special programs off I got the traction light on now along with suspension fault light and the the orange brake light..could this be a sensor or do you thinks its cause I have to do a wheel alignment?

 

Can anyone help out?? Please

 

What are lower tables? You mean lower control arms?

I'm not sure a slightly wonky alignment would cause this but couldn't rule it out if its really bad.

 

So it turned out to be my alignment that was causing these faults all Is fixed now...but I need 4 struts..does anyone know if I can get them from any place but the dealership there 655 $ each for the front & 720 each for the back that's 3000 $ for all 4

 

wow very pricey, how many miles do you have that you need new struts?

 

105000km I want to cry.... Please tell me there a place that has them cheaper PLEASE

 

http://www.parts.com/parts/2006/LAN...03&section=FRONT SUSPENSION&group=FRONT SUSPENSION&subgroup=SHOCKS & COMPONENTS



what were the symptoms of them going out, seems to early for them to go out, i have 70k miles on mine and havnt had this issue

 

Thanks for the link but I have a supercharged no one seems to sell struts for the S/C .... They just feel very bumpy like old worn out shocks... The funny part is after I fixed everything my suspension fault light stop coming on in red.. Now it comes on in yellow and it says to much lean in cornering ... Before I change my struts I'm going to do my drier fuse & software update this weekend before I dish out 3000$!!!! I won't lie I was very very close to just trading my car in for a 2007 Cadillac escalade... For a fair trade . But I decided to fix my baby....:dance:

 

So I have searched everywhere ... I can't find nothing! So are you trying to tell me there is no one this forum who has had to change there struts on there RRS S/C? I really don't feel like paying 3000$ PLEASE SOME BODY PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME...:think:

 

Something sounds off...you shouldn't need 4 new struts at <70K.

 

I would hope your right goosey...I'm hoping that if I change my dryer and fuse and update, that it will help the struts..I'm thinking maybe they aren't being pumped enough due the the dryer being blocked...I went on the British Atlantic site there selling the struts for more than the dealership lol...

 

Is this particular type of "clunk" just related to the RRS S/C? I have a 2010 full size RR S/C that is starting to make the "clunk." It is infrequent and occurs when driving slowly and making a sharp turn....similiar to what occurs while parking the car. In addition, I've noticed that the steering wheel gets difficult to turn shortly thereafter. Almost, like the power steering is not operational. Is there any relation? The clunk and difficult steering issue are not reproducible. This has occured on 3-4 separate occasions. The vehicle has 38K on the odo. No other issues are noted while driving. Frankly, it drives and rides great. Other threads have mentioned sway bars issues causing the clunk in the full size RR and this thread has discussed the Dynamic response as being the issue with the RRS S/C. Any suggestions/opinions etc.... Thank you in advance for your reply.

 

Mine turned out to be the anti roll bar links. Only a £15 part but the top wishbone needed lifting out to get to the nut at the top

 

Thanks for posting the TSBs. It's a pain to get to my dealer, looks like I shouldn't bother. :-x

 

Mine did that, it was the lower control arms.

 

I would like to add to this hilariously long running thread...I have been trying to get this "thud" sound fixed since 2008 on my 2007 RRS S/C but to no avail. I now have 58,500 miles on her and that "vibration"/"thud" noise is getting progressively worse. I've taken it to LR Dealerships in MN, FL and now in NJ -[one indy (Rover Specialists mentioned in this forum as good) and one dealership]. Indy replaced my front strut assemblies thinking that was the problem, NOPE! Dealer replaced rear sway bar bushings saying that was the problem, NOPE! Took back to dealership yesterday. Did a ride with tech, he heard/felt it too. Then SA calls me and tells me bushings are fine and they can't find anything and that Service Mgr will drive in morning. Just got off phone and now SA, the other tech from yesterday, and manager can hear noise but "want to be sure we're all hearing the same thing" so they asked me to describe it again. I told him they've had 3 ***** experts drive the vehicle AND AGREE there is something but "we need to know what you're hearing to make sure we fix the right thing." WTF? I then told SA that if there are more than one issue going on, let's get those addressed too, shall we. I even have an extended warranty which would probably cover some or most of this issue (at least bushings would be). I don't think I'll ever own another RR again. Can't trust anybody.

 

Here's something you could try. I use this to find noises on my truck.
1. Buy a gopro.
2. Set it up under the car pointing at different areas.
3. ride along and make the noise then examine the video.

If it's a popping when you stab at the brakes while rolling, it could be the LCAs. Thuds from going over bumpy terrain at low speeds, maybe sway bar bushings. It's kinda hard to tell which of the ~8 possible parts it is, but the cam helps.

 

Not sure if you were replying to me C4attheDoor or to the thread, but thank you anyway. Now the dealer says they can't find the noise in question although they all heard it. They also came back and told me after performing a road force balance, there may be a Steering Rack issue. I have no idea why they would balance the tires when they're claiming they are all worn (but that's another thread). Based on this, I should be able to write a book in "tires" thread, "dealership experiences" thread. ha ha

 

I haven't read all the posts in this thread, but I get the clunking noise on the passenger front side of my 2004 RR when going over rough surfaces, braking at speed and turning right. If I go under the car I can move the passenger tie rod end (aka upper control arm) from side to side by hand. The drivers side is solid. So I am replacing the bushing. RAVE says I need to replace both sides. I have also had to replace the wheel bearing on the passenger side twice, and it looks like the bearing has gone again after only 1000 miles. I hope that fixing the bushing will stop the bearings from going.

 

<<The described noise is a characteristic of the dynamic response system and is generated when there is a sudden change in oil flow in the hydraulic circuit. This is a result of a direction control valve switching in response to driving inputs. The change in flow will be accompanied by a pressure pulse, which will be transmitted through the hydraulic and mechanical
components associated with the system. The duration and amplitude of the pulse make it audible.>>

And--
<<NOTE: It may not be possible to achieve the same noise level on all vehicles. The amplitude of the noise will vary from vehicle to vehicle due to natural variability, ambient and system temperature, component tolerances and dynamic response system hydraulic characteristics.>>

After changing out my LCA's a few days back I thought that the clunking sound had vanished. The temperature outside has now fallen back down to 5 to 10C from 20C, and the noise is back. , New sway bar bushings and new LCA's. Double checked the end links which are as tight as brand new.

I am getting the feeling that this is unfixable and may in fact be the Dynamic Response characteristic.

My next move is to hook up some chassis ears. Seems to only happen when there is a crack in the road where the wheel falls a bit. Also sounds like it is coming from the driver's front.
This sound is more annoying IMHO because of the fairly harsh ride one has to contend with and the fact that I expect better on an otherwise fine truck.

Further-- the LCA bushings, except for the seized rear bolts appeared fine in the arms I took out.
The new bolts, etc. seemed to help with a great alignment as far as handling on bumpy roads at speed.

Could the problem be motor mounts? Does almost sound like exhaust system bumping into something.

 

To put a end to this all this clanking noise is its the say bar bushing. I have a 06 rrs and my "clunking" was coming from the driver side and rear passenger side and today i just got my bushings replaces and bam the little rattling sounds are all gone and my range is all brand new again feels and sounds amazing. Bought bushings from Land Rover and had a buddy of mine to install for $100 bucks and good as new. My RRS has 72k on it by the way and they were really worn out.

 

Getting the same here. A dull THUD when pulling onto the low curb to enter my driveway. I have no clue but from my experience with other cars, if it's not the ball joints, which I don't think it is as I've heard that noise before, could it be the bushings?

 

I'd replace sway bar links (cheap) when doing bushings - those will be well worn by 70km ....

 

Thanks Alpaca. I looked into the price of sway bar links and you're right, at 50 bucks a pop they are pretty cheap. Also on roverparts.com there a vid that shows you how to check and see if the links need replacing but I'm wondering if there is a way to check this without raising the car.

 

Thanks Alpaca. I looked into the price of sway bar links and you're right, at 50 bucks a pop they are pretty cheap.

$50???

https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/RBM500140

 

You guys have a point but Arby yours are 1 month old... It would be nice to hear from some people who have had these on for a year or more.

Arby, when you swapped yours out did you use a lift or did you just raise the truck one side at a time?

 

You guys have a point but Arby yours are 1 month old... It would be nice to hear from some people who have had these on for a year or more.

Actually, that site is from this thread Canrover, being most that got the parts, from this thread, which is very old, got it from that site. I understand what you're saying, but I think you may be over thinking that a bit (@least for these particular parts)

Some, I agree, you want to be sure about, but these,,,,,,, I think you're fine; again, I say, "Think about it, the OEM part is ONLY $50...

 

I guess you have a point. I could buy these, install them and if they fail who cares, I'm out 50 bucks cdn (shipping, taxes and all) for two of them and I can just go get the OEM ones if I really feel it's necessary. Definitely worth considering.

So how hard are these things to change when you're lifting one wheel at a time?

 

One wheel at a time would be extra challenging. You will have the sway bar under high tension with the vehicle uneven.

What are you using to lift and support the vehicle? Can you not get a second set?

 

I have undone mine a couple of times. A bit tight for space, and you need to hold the stud part with an allen key to stop the ball from turning. So far I have had three undone at seperate times and they always feel very tight and not worn at all so I have just done them back up.

PS: In my post above I was talking about control arrms not end links.