[Canrover]

One wheel at a time would be extra challenging. You will have the sway bar under high tension with the vehicle uneven.

What are you using to lift and support the vehicle? Can you not get a second set?

I could use jack stands to lift both sides of the front end but I heard that this screws up the air lift system and that lifting one wheel at a time is best to avoid this. I agree this makes no sense otherwise how would technicians be able to work on the cars in a timely manner. I read it here but I can't remember which thread.

 

[RRS_TX]

I could use jack stands to lift both sides of the front end but I heard that this screws up the air lift system and that lifting one wheel at a time is best to avoid this. I agree this makes no sense otherwise how would technicians be able to work on the cars in a timely manner. I read it here but I can't remember which thread.

If you disconnect the battery, the only issue that I have read about is that the sensors don't like being in an extended position for a long time. But that doesn't really make sense to me unless the sensors are old and on their way out already. And a "long time" is probably a lot longer than the time it would take to do this job.

 

[Canrover]

Thanks RRS_TX, I'll do that for the install. Tonight I'm just gonna put the car in off road height, cranky the wheels to the sides and check the links for play in the bushings and go from there. Hopefully this will tell me if the bushings are shot.

 

[arby]

I could use jack stands to lift both sides of the front end but I heard that this screws up the air lift system and that lifting one wheel at a time is best to avoid this. I agree this makes no sense otherwise how would technicians be able to work on the cars in a timely manner. I read it here but I can't remember which thread.

I have not noticed any difference jacking up one side compared to any car.

 

[Roman D]

Front end clunking solved.
Hi guys, here is my 2 cents... I bought 2009 RRS SC with 96k miles out of Alabama and while I drove it back everything was normal, only in NY (we have roads below 3rd world countries level) I felt violent slam bang over bumps. LR tech quickly pointed to significant play in sway bar bushings. After replacement there was huge improvement but still noisy.. I fugured, lets go further and had both LCMs replaced along with sway bar links and toerod ends which improved the ride/handling significantly but did not take care of clunking completely.. I had ordered pair of Airstruts from Arnott and OEM upper control arms but wound up changing airstruts only as upper control arms were absolutely fine. Now everything is nice and smooth. While airbags were OK, shocks absorbants built in to assembly had failed. Another observation regarding LCA - I think what happens is, bolt that holds LCA to the frame gets fused to metal cartridge inside the bushings and LCA can no longer pivot on it which leaves the bushings to take everythings on itself causing rubber to rip eventually. Perhaps removing that bolt, cleaning and assembly back with plenty of antiseeze compound would make LCA last for a very long time.. Sadly wheel alignment will be nesessary after that.

 

[arby]

Front end clunking solved.
Hi guys, here is my 2 cents... I bought 2009 RRS SC with 96k miles out of Alabama and while I drove it back everything was normal, only in NY (we have roads below 3rd world countries level) I felt violent slam bang over bumps. LR tech quickly pointed to significant play in sway bar bushings. After replacement there was huge improvement but still noisy.. I fugured, lets go further and had both LCMs replaced along with sway bar links and toerod ends which improved the ride/handling significantly but did not take care of clunking completely.. I had ordered pair of Airstruts from Arnott and OEM upper control arms but wound up changing airstruts only as upper control arms were absolutely fine. Now everything is nice and smooth. While airbags were OK, shocks absorbants built in to assembly had failed. Another observation regarding LCA - I think what happens is, bolt that holds LCA to the frame gets fused to metal cartridge inside the bushings and LCA can no longer pivot on it which leaves the bushings to take everythings on itself causing rubber to rip eventually. Perhaps removing that bolt, cleaning and assembly back with plenty of antiseeze compound would make LCA last for a very long time.. Sadly wheel alignment will be nesessary after that.

Roman,

Do these struts have bushings on top and bottom?
Seems to me that shocks themselves would not make noise, but where the struts are fastened could.
I have changed my bushings, and LCA's. I have checked the end links and they are tight, but like you, I still seem to hear knocking and bopping under there.
Thanks

 

[Roman D]

Airstrut mounts with 3 nuts on top, I would imagine there is a some kind mount/bearing built in on the top and yes, there is a bushing on lower part/mount which did not look terrible to the naked eye. In any case, it is my understanding that when shocks absorbant does not do its job, hitting the bump or poth hole would send a suspension in to violent stress and produce noices, reduce stability/control etc. so for 100k vehichle I knew it will bring resaults and it did.

 

[arby]

Thanks Roman, but i just can't see how weak shocks would cause noise. Maybe bouncing and loss of control, but not noise like knocking.

 

[eugenek]

I find it absolutely HILARIOUS that almost NINE years after me creating this thread about getting the noise on my (then) brand new RRS S/C, it seems like many owners are still struggling with this issue and dealerships still seem to be totally clueless about it.

I can tell you with utmost certainty that in my case it was sway bar (a.k.a. anti-roll bar) bushings. Every time the dealer replaced them, the noise was gone for about 6 months, only to come back like clockwork. I must have forced the dealer to replace the bushings about 4 times during my 3-year lease on my '07 RRS S/C. It was always an annoyance more than anything else and never affected driveability of the otherwise awesome car.

I am now driving a '13 RRS S/C (just broke 30,000 miles). No clunking! So I guess there is at least one proven way to permanently stop the noise

 

[UAV]

Man, I had them replaced as well and *poof* clunking ceased. However, the clunking has returned.

I find it absolutely HILARIOUS that almost NINE years after me creating this thread about getting the noise on my (then) brand new RRS S/C, it seems like many owners are still struggling with this issue and dealerships still seem to be totally clueless about it.

I can tell you with utmost certainty that in my case it was sway bar (a.k.a. anti-roll bar) bushings. Every time the dealer replaced them, the noise was gone for about 6 months, only to come back like clockwork. I must have forced the dealer to replace the bushings about 4 times during my 3-year lease on my '07 RRS S/C. It was always an annoyance more than anything else and never affected driveability of the otherwise awesome car.

I am now driving a '13 RRS S/C (just broke 30,000 miles). No clunking! So I guess there is at least one proven way to permanently stop the noise

 

[Gadzooks2]

I had the elusive front end clunk as well in the right front. Replaced sway bar end links and no change. Removed sway bar links and clunk noise was cut in half but not gone and still real annoying. Finally the right front strut bag blew. Changed entire strut and clunk was gone. Re-installed sway bar and clunk is still gone. It turns out all the noise was coming from the strut. (I had checked all suspension parts and strut bolts were tight previously)

 

[melrollins]

I have the same exact clunking sound that kind of sounds like a nonstop drum being beaten while going over any bump and turning the wheel. I have brought my RRS everywhere for diagnosis and it's done no good. Bushings and every other imaginal small remedy done and still the noise.

Did the sound go away after replacing this stabilizing bar?

 

[Dil_king]

I have a clunking issue as well and my lower control arm bushings are bad and I'm being told to replace both arms I'm curious have you guys used non OEM arms and have they held up the same as OEM cause I see arms on eBay for like $200 costing me $400 for both but non OEM. The OEM ones are $1000 what do you guys recommend anyone used non OEM ones ?

 

[Roman D]

Hi, I installed OEM front lower control arms. They were about $300 a piece from Atlantic British. They, also should be available from FCP Euro. Aftermarkets are about 200/pc. If you go aftermarket, I'd suggest buy from FCP Euro, that will come with lifetime warranty so you don't have to worry about longevity etc. At any point, you can file a warranty claim and receive the new ones. Which ever path you take - please order a hardware kit - new bolts and nuts that hold Control arms to the Body/Frame. Odds are they're terribly rusted and worned out inside and it is highly likely your mechanic would have to destroy them in order to remove old arms - this is very very important. also, make sure the mechanic will be very generous with anti-cease compound when installing new bolts.

 

[arby]

I used the cheapest after market ones and 2 years and 30,000 kms later they are still fine. To me the welding looked better on the after market ones than the ones I removed.
I paid $425 Cdn for the pair. Then you need an alignment for which the stealer charged me $260.

 

[Dil_king]

Alright thank you guys for your input

 

[jakoh]

The clunk is a built in feature of all RRS. Just get used to it.

 

[jassbrar87]

I recently bought a 2011 Range Rover Sport Supercharged & it had only 50k Miles on it...I guess the individual sold it because of the same reason, suspension & overall maintenance.

After Replacing Front Lower Control Arms, Bent Rim, Damaged Height Sensor & performing Steering Flush the clunk went away on mine.

I will list below the Repairs & Maintenance procedures that were performed - this is for information only & thought it might help anyone save some money.

Land Rover in Virginia & some so called specialists gave me an estimate between 8K-10K for the following Items

1. Control Arms Left & Right - Replace & Install New
Purchased on Ebay - Seller "Eurocars9101"
OEM Lemforder Front Left Lower Corntrol Arm - $187.00
OEM Lemforder Front Right Lower Corntrol Arm - $190.00

"Eurocars910"1 has raised the price to $250 the day after I negotiated from $193.00 to $187.00 & $190.00.. Guess it's coz of the Coronavirus pandemic.

2. Height Sensor Right Rear (with Variable Dampling Suspension) - Replace & Install new (Old one went bad).
Purchased from Checkered Flag Land Rover - Virginia Beach
LR023650 - $118.81
Shipping + Tax - $15.00 (Approx)
Total - $133.66

3. Rear Right Wheel (Rim) - Replace & Install New (Old Rim was Bent)
Purchased on Ebay - Seller "direct"
Range Rover Sport Supercharged OEM Rim - $249.00

"Direct" claimed that it was a take off Rim & had no cosmetic repairs done to it. When it arrived I saw the they had painted the Rim (didn't bother removing the weights before painting). Rim was not bent & was in a good condition.

4. Oil Flush (Drain Old & Add New) was done for the following
- Steering Flush

- Brake Flush - All Brake Pads & Rotors were Installed a month ago.
4 New Rotors (Brembo) - Brembo Website, - Not Sure if Brembo were OEM
4 New Brake Pads (Ferodo) - Ebay - Seller "partscontainer" - Not Sure if Ferodo were OEM
2 New OEM Brake Pad wear Sensor - Ebay - Seller "skyur"

- Engine Oil + Filter

- Differential (Front & Rear)

- Transfer Case

- Transmission (Pan Service was Performed)
Purchased the following items for Trans Service AutohausAZ
ZF Autp Trans Oil Pan & Filter Kit - $72.99
ZF Auto Trans Oil Pan Bolt - Total of 22 Bolts - $1.35 per Bolt
ZF Auto Trans Valve Body Sealing Sleeve - $17.04

Purchased the Trans Fluid on FCPEuro
ZF Lifeguard 6 Automatic Transmission Fluid - Total of 8L - $19.99 per Liter
Labor for Trans Pan Service - $250.00 (Approx)

5. Ignition Coil - Replace & Install New
Spark Plugs - Replace & Install New
Purchased on AutohausAZ
Bosch Ignition Coil - Total of 8 coils - $36.87 per Coil
NGK Spark Plug - Total of 8 plugs - $11.92 per Plug

Total Labor charged by my mechanic who is very experienced & highly rated, was between ($1000 & $1100) including Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid, Engine Oil + Filter, Differential Fluid (Front & Back), Transfer Case Fluid and ALIGNMENT.

After performing all the above, the Vehicle not only drives smooth but the Clunking noise went away as well.. I will replace the Stabilizer Bar Bushings (Front & Rear) & Stabilizer Links (Front & Rear) and I am sure that will complete reset the vehicle to factory.

Hope the information helps.

Thanks

 

[Roman NJ]

I had similar issue with my 2009 RRS SC, and issue was sway bar. I had one of the mechanics from Manhattan LR hanging out at my mechanics place, so he did the testdrive then pulled in, called few guys and asked them to rock the truck sideways as much as possible - clunking was right there. At that point I had new struts, LCAs, toe rod ends, sway bar bushings and links replaced already, he said it is a sway bar ass'y, replace it and clunking will be gone. I did just that and clunking was gone. It is very unlikely your diff as I did changed it then and it made no difference.
Try to gather couple of guys and ask them to rock the car, if it clunks - likely it is a sway bar, given your sway bar bushings and links are either replaced or verified to be in great shape.