Thanks, I'll try that on mine.

 

Thanks, I'll try that on mine. Maybe I'll just replace it. The scope only shows one end I imagine.

 

Thanks so much for posting this. Is there a realistic DIY replacement procedure/video for this (including torque specs and sequence for S/C, gaskets, best replacement P/N, etc)? I’ve looked, but didn’t find anything confidence inducing. I’d consider preemptively doing it if not at too much risk of screwing it up.

 

I wouldn't try it Pops... Me personally... I'd enjoy the warranty on parts and labor, etc from a good Indi-Shop if you can source a good one... If not then the Dealership would be my next choice. @ 80-90K miles this should be done as a Preventative Maintenance Measure I'm convinced of. All the heating and cooling "Heat-Sink" cycles puts a lot of heat stress on that coolant pipe system and weakens its integrity at the molding seems. That coupled with that it's a "Pressure-ized System" will exacerbate any weaknesses in that area of the coolant pipe system. If these pipes would simply be made of the same exact material (Aluminum I think) or that the AC system pipes are made from (or even a galvanized copper piping) I could see them lasting nearly forever (if they only would make them like that...)

 

Im having a issue sourcing the correct part numbers. I you go on landrovermerriamparts the new updated water manifold as it is called does not cross over to 2014-15 models. I am going to the local LR dealer tonight to verify part #'s with a tech.

 

I've researched too but felt like it wasn't a fun job although theoretically it's simple. The supercharger align pins can get stuck and making it very hard to lift off. I might just send it to a shop to do it.

 

I may be a sucker, but this guy posted a brief video claiming this can be done without removing the supercharger. No other videos posted show before or after, so it’s difficult to determine authenticity:

 

I have a 2016 HSE, and I just replaced the coolant pipes as a preventative measure, along with both belt tensioner‘s and some other items. One of them had started to weep, but it wasn’t visible until the supercharger came off.

I had a shop do the work, and I’m glad I did! I’m hoping I can avoid an engine replacement down the line. I have 89,000 miles currently.

 

They are aluminum on older 5.0 V8s engines, not sure if they are 100% interchangable but I suspect they are. Worth checking as they last forever.

 

This is awesome, can you share the p/n or where you got it?

 

Try a few different angles, try to angle it towards the engine block, and that nasty orange means you just saved an engine.

View attachment 298918

Why do you think that is the plastic pipe you circled leaking rather than the pipe shown in the photo which goes into the back of the water pump?

And the "crossover pipe" is on the back of the engine.

 

The "Crossover pipe" we call or "Crossover manifold" referred in the part catalog is the one circled, it's in front of the engine and is known to leak eventually. Not sure what water pump hose you're referring to. There is s similar pipe in the back of the engine that people usually replace as well because "while we're at it", but that one is less known to leak I guess may be due to less heat?

 

Thanks for the advice, Ham. I likely won’t. I’ve seen a couple of videos where the thing pops off with fury when using an engine hoist because of those two corroded dowel pins. Yikes. Luckily, I am at 60k and will likely not own it at 80k since I put less than 5k on per year. Waiting for my endoscope to arrive Tuesday just to have a peek down there for the hell of it. If I can get a good view with no orange anywhere, maybe I’ll check it every month or so. The plastic construction appears to be endemic of many Euro manufacturers when it comes to vulnerable parts (e.g. Jag chain guides, BMW turbo coolant lines, on and on). Makes no sense at all, unless they only had stealership profit in mind. Cheers!

 

I was super stoked to finally get to this, but despite poking around all over the place, in addition to the OP‘s recommendation, I really couldn’t see anything resembling the pipe seams or flanges. Maybe someone with an eagle eye sees something otherwise. The good news is that anywhere I poked, I didn’t see any coolant. These are the most detailed of the lot.

 

Yours looks pretty clean!

 

Thanks. Do these pics look similar to what you found? I have no idea what I’m looking at here.

 

Those are clean pics... IF there was a leak those pics would look like fluid was splashed and pooling around the pipes seems.

 

So, an update. Just got my car back yesterday from my Indy. It all came in at $2,100. Mechanically, everything seems to have gone well. They provided me all the used parts (crossover pipes, manifold heater pipe, water pump, thermostat, gaskets, other plumbing). The crossover pipes seemed to be in decent condition. Unfortunately, they scratched my bumper during its three-day stay. They’ll be respraying it next week. So pissed. They do high end restoration work, so hopefully they’ll match the Loire Blue perfectly. I’ll need to be sure they don’t report to Carfax!

 

Nice, you're ready for another 6 years.

 

Thanks. That’s what my Indy said, too. I won’t have it that long.

 

Hi, is it the same for SDV6 diesel engine?

 

Just picking this thread up guys, I have a 3.0 D tdv6 - and Im looking at the aluminum crossover pipe swap , Ive suffered no coolant leaks yet etc but obviously would like to do this as a pretentive measure - is there now a LR or OEM aluminimum replacement part?
Would someone mind posting the part no.?

 

y

 

Bringing this back up to the surface but why is it just the pre-MY18 L494s, did JLR update the component(s) to address this issue?

 

I think it was 2020? Someone may know the exact timeframe

 

Amazon.com

Has anyone tried these?