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With the weight of RR SWB and LWB, and the Sports …. They should all have ceramic discs and pads. I still have my 20 Bentayga W12 signature it’s now got 415K miles on it and I extended the warranty 3 more years w/unlimited miles… my point is , it’s got the biggest rotors on it of any SUV on the market even today , they are steel & ceramic composite … I drive very aggressively every time i drive and left lane hoggers get to see a blue blur as I pass them on the right with the horn blaring At triple digits … I’ve gotten 75-90K miles out of the pads and rotors and when I do use the brakes it’s very hard. No warping no issues.

Now when I get the 25 SV LWB , and start driving that …. I know with the old school bembro staels … I’ll need to order front and a rear sets every 6 months because they are complete garbage. LRUK/LRUS should be putting carbon ceramics rotors and pads on all sports and full size rovers PERIOD. They last longer and to stop these 6,7,8K lb Pigs… i mean rigs we need better brake equipment.
 
With the weight of RR SWB and LWB, and the Sports …. They should all have ceramic discs and pads. I still have my 20 Bentayga W12 signature it’s now got 415K miles on it and I extended the warranty 3 more years w/unlimited miles… my point is , it’s got the biggest rotors on it of any SUV on the market even today , they are steel & ceramic composite … I drive very aggressively every time i drive and left lane hoggers get to see a blue blur as I pass them on the right with the horn blaring At triple digits … I’ve gotten 75-90K miles out of the pads and rotors and when I do use the brakes it’s very hard. No warping no issues.

Now when I get the 25 SV LWB , and start driving that …. I know with the old school bembro staels … I’ll need to order front and a rear sets every 6 months because they are complete garbage. LRUK/LRUS should be putting carbon ceramics rotors and pads on all sports and full size rovers PERIOD. They last longer and to stop these 6,7,8K lb Pigs… i mean rigs we need better brake equipment.
True enough, carbon ceramic brakes would increase lifetime considerably. However, such a solution starts at about $15k, which is more than 10% of the cost of most of the big boy Range Rovers. They work fine on my Ferrari but don't seem to fit the niche of Range Rover overall (maybe fine in SV).
 
True enough, carbon ceramic brakes would increase lifetime considerably. However, such a solution starts at about $15k, which is more than 10% of the cost of most of the big boy Range Rovers. They work fine on my Ferrari but don't seem to fit the niche of Range Rover overall (maybe fine in SV).
My SV order is $241K what’s another 15K to stop the 7000+ lb cylinder block with wheels?… give me the ceramics ! $15K to stop better and last longer… NO BRAINER … drop in the bucket !
 
9k is bad. Sounds like racing school maybe a good play to save brakes. As we say, let it roll at little bit to the next light. Warping is caused by heat. Wear follows after that. Saving your brakes requires technique and attention. Rears engage more to prevent front end dive upon stopping.
My XJ ate them at 24k and my L405 eats them 2:1 over fronts. I drive hard.

My wife is hard on them, but not that hard to kill them at 9k. For years, the second set in her car were replaced with cross drilled to keep them from warping due to over heating.

As far as cost, that what happens when you goto the stealer-ship. R and R brakes is one of the easiest repairs. Swapped a pair of rears, with caliper auto retract, with the rotors are a 15 mins job with floor jack. Cost of parts.
 
@findre - What’s auto caliper retract, how do you do that? Do agree that swapping out a rotor and a brake pads corner by corner is easy work, relatively speaking. If you don’t want to do it yourself, pay someone to do it.
With that said, I bought my example at 37k miles and my front and rears look fine to me and from looking at the vehicle history, all maintenance was done at the dealer it was purchased from including oil changes.
Also, in my opinion, the front end dives just as much I would expect a vehicle of this weight to dive when brakes are applied so by looking at my pads the front and rears are pretty much wearing equally.
Will have to see what happens as I put 10k on them.
Back,front:
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Seriously, that must be the highest mileage Bentley ever. What a testament to the Bentayga! How in the world do you accumulate more than 100k miles per year. Assuming total miles driven at 400k miles, and assuming you drive 500 miles per day, that is 800 days of 500 mile drives!
Even though this is not the forum for Bentaygas, how did it hold up engine and transmission wise? How expensive is the maintenance on the Bentayga?
 
I have no skin in this thread because I don't own a Range Rover (yet). I did read this thread with a funny look on my face...I'm sort of surprised that people are shocked that they're going through brake pads and rotors quickly.

As far as heavy cars go, I presently own a present gen Audi A8L and recently sold my Rolls Royce Ghost. I've had an S class in the past, and plenty of heavy SUVs like the X5.

Anyway, from a weight perspective, the Ghost/A8L and Range Rovers aren't that far apart in weight, and if you drive anything like I do (no, I don't drive these like I did my R8), it's just a matter of 'weight' of car. Heavy cars chew through tires and chew through brakes.

If you think about the formula for torque = force x distance. The other issue with a Range Rover is the height of the car and the weight of the car from "above" the position of the brakes. Every time you stomp on the brakes, all that weight with a higher center of gravity than the A8L/Ghost, exerts a much larger force on the brakes and thus accelerating wear vs say a heavy sedan.

Now, I'm not nearly as read in as most of you about the specifics of the Range Rover, but I easily chewed through brakes and rotors on the S class. I'm only at 20,000 miles on a 6 year old Audi A8L and I'm at about 60% but that's because I drive that thing like a grandma. I chewed through rotors/pads on the Ghost every 10,000 miles.

Now: That said, I do think there's something that hasn't been discussed ad nauseum and should be. For cars that are chewing through brakes, is there any correlation for vehicles that have active stabilization?

Simple physics in my head would make me allege that cars with active roll/dive/squat stabilization will chew through brakes even harder than those without. Those with = car will dive under braking, the active suspension would resist that, and the brakes would have to eat all of that heat which otherwise would have caused the nose to dive and the tires to take the wear.
 
I have no skin in this thread because I don't own a Range Rover (yet). I did read this thread with a funny look on my face...I'm sort of surprised that people are shocked that they're going through brake pads and rotors quickly.

As far as heavy cars go, I presently own a present gen Audi A8L and recently sold my Rolls Royce Ghost. I've had an S class in the past, and plenty of heavy SUVs like the X5.

Anyway, from a weight perspective, the Ghost/A8L and Range Rovers aren't that far apart in weight, and if you drive anything like I do (no, I don't drive these like I did my R8), it's just a matter of 'weight' of car. Heavy cars chew through tires and chew through brakes.

If you think about the formula for torque = force x distance. The other issue with a Range Rover is the height of the car and the weight of the car from "above" the position of the brakes. Every time you stomp on the brakes, all that weight with a higher center of gravity than the A8L/Ghost, exerts a much larger force on the brakes and thus accelerating wear vs say a heavy sedan.

Now, I'm not nearly as read in as most of you about the specifics of the Range Rover, but I easily chewed through brakes and rotors on the S class. I'm only at 20,000 miles on a 6 year old Audi A8L and I'm at about 60% but that's because I drive that thing like a grandma. I chewed through rotors/pads on the Ghost every 10,000 miles.

Now: That said, I do think there's something that hasn't been discussed ad nauseum and should be. For cars that are chewing through brakes, is there any correlation for vehicles that have active stabilization?

Simply physics in my head would make me allege that cars with active roll/dive/squat stabilization will chew through brakes even harder than those without. Those with = car will dive under braking, the active suspension would resist that, and the brakes would have to eat all of that heat which otherwise would have caused the nose to dive and the tires to take the wear.
While agree with you on most parts with luxury vehicles (to be fair my RR LWB stops on a dime ) in America at least , there are plenty of United States Vehicles that weigh more and have not had any brake issues over a significant amount of miles on a vehicle.
For instance I have had

-21) Yukon Denali xl- 50k miles - no brake work at time of tree in
20- expedition max - 25k miles - no brakes needed

08 Lexus Gx- 70k -no brakes needed

23 ford f350- 35k no brakes needed

19 suburban - over 50k no brakes needed

my point is in the United States there are plenty of vehicles heavier than a RR with no brake pads or calibers needed well over 50k and counting.
So RR is more of a mid sized SUV in the United States and brake jobs at 13k is a bit of a downer compared to other sized SUVs in America.
 
While agree with you on most parts with luxury vehicles (to be fair my RR LWB stops on a dime ) in America at least , there are plenty of United States Vehicles that weigh more and have not had any brake issues over a significant amount of miles on a vehicle.
For instance I have had

-21) Yukon Denali xl- 50k miles - no brake work at time of tree in
20- expedition max - 25k miles - no brakes needed

08 Lexus Gx- 70k -no brakes needed

23 ford f350- 35k no brakes needed

19 suburban - over 50k no brakes needed

my point is in the United States there are plenty of vehicles heavier than a RR with no brake pads or calibers needed well over 50k and counting.
So RR is more of a mid sized SUV in the United States and brake jobs at 13k is a bit of a downer compared to other sized SUVs in America.
We'd probably have to look at averages rather than n=1 for each of these cars. There may be something going on with Range Rover which is why I'm researching this car right now but I do wonder if active roll stabilization is a big contributing factor. The Range Rover is the only car on this list that has this option as far as I know.
 
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That is impressive. Did you have to do any engine work or transmission work on that Bentley to get it to almost a 1/2 million miles? @SVRtraveler
Fuel pumps, both turbos , no engine internals , They did a walnut shell blast of all the valves when they did the turbos and intake manifolds gasket replacements. Keep in mind 95% of my driving is motorway/highway driving 75-120+ mph …. She gets used for hours a day for business travel
 
How is that even possible??
I support a team of sales reps that sell gift card, debit card, CC card processing hardware, software , APIs and all the processing of said cards for all sized clients selling whatever support east of the Mississippi .. but have a rule anything north of DC I drive so I can see my top performers almost anywhere
 
Oh my god I am just seening this chat right now. My Range Rover sport 2024 is not even a year old and I had to replace my brakes and brake pads and had to pay out of licked about $2300-$3000. My husband blamed me for not knowing how to drive and that I press my brakes really hard. But I also had a 2017 Range Rover and I changed the brake pads at like 30,000 miles. I live in Chicago. So this isn’t normal , you guys are saying
It could be the adaptive cruise control. It applies the rear brakes to slow your vehicle when you are too close and it needs to reduce speed quickly. My solution is to use the close setting of my adaptive cruise control only when I'm on the highway out of traffic. And in traffic, I never use the cruise control. Some owners swear by it and don't care if they need to replace the pads in the rear frequently, and the rotors every second time. But here in the US, dealers often force you to replace pads and rotors at the same time so they don't have to deal with complaints of squeaking while the pads break in to the scored rotors.
 
It could be the adaptive cruise control. It applies the rear brakes to slow your vehicle when you are too close and it needs to reduce speed quickly. My solution is to use the close setting of my adaptive cruise control only when I'm on the highway out of traffic. And in traffic, I never use the cruise control. Some owners swear by it and don't care if they need to replace the pads in the rear frequently, and the rotors every second time. But here in the US, dealers often force you to replace pads and rotors at the same time so they don't have to deal with complaints of squeaking while the pads break in to the scored rotors.
While it could be there adaptive cruise control - it’s not a new feature and many vehicles I have had all had it and no brake issues ever came up

it’s probably will come down to the materials/process used to make their brakes.
 
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