Ouch. Certainly sounds like a faulty unit. Was this a local purchase or through a Rover supplier?

If it was local have them test it/replace it. If it was through a supplier give them a buzz and see what their return policy is.

Was your battery fully charged when installed the new alternator? If not give a good long charge. Then run through the electrical troubleshooting stickie above. The series of tests in the stickie will test battery, alternator and cables.

 

Well, I ran a few test. Voltage with engine off seems to be around 12.2. Idling is around 13.1 and @ 2000rpm the voltage will rise to around 14 but fall back to around 13 quite often. The tachometer is working quite sporadically so maybe this is a result of me not keeping rpms consistent enough? Finding a consistent amp reading at the alternator is impossible, it swings between 0 and 75 at idle.

As the battery approaches death, revving up the engine causes lights to dim and flicker at a faster pace. Death also seems to come quicker when revving the engine rather than idling. Maybe this is normal? But I found it rather strange.

 

sounds like the replacement unit is faulty to me as well but I have to ask, you're certain that you tightened the belt and it's not slipping?

 

Yes, that belt is as tight as can be. I would kill for it to be that simple.

 

Does the battery light light up on your instrument cluster if not that may be your issue if the alternator is good. For some reason Land Rover made that light part of the charging circuit and if that bulb blows your alternator will not put out voltage. The bulb has a red base as compared to the black ones for the rest of the lights. Not sure if that is true for all classics but it was for my 1988 m.y.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Unfortunately, this light is working very well. I've had the joy of seeing it quite often recently :,(

 

Not a unique problem. In fact I had the same trouble on my 1990. I turned my core in and got a new alternator from AZ. It didn't work but now my core is gone. So I try another from AZ. still no good. The problem is, as I have posted many time, the diode pack. I was lucky and got another core and took it to a rebuilder who freshened the core and put in a new diode pack. I sourced the pack on line. Problem resolved. Ialso lost an alternator on my 95lwb. again ordered the right diode pack and had it rebuilt. Still fine.

I just remember, there is a tutorial online that show how to change the pack yourself. I don't know where it is, start looking!

good luck
geneo

 

here's a piece I had saved.

Just a heads up for everyone as I am going through this now (squealing, burning belts and intermittent tach operation) even after a rebuild. I've just had it with the Marelli's.

Ready to go for $95.95 delivered from these folks. They have the higher amp models as well for slightly more...(fast reply and very friendly) -

"We can supply the 105 amp alternator (re-clocked) with 4 groove pulley for $74.00 + $9.95 for the pigtail (with all 4 wires) + $12.00 for shipping = $95.95
This should do it for you."

Thanks, Mike

Mike Lewis
DB Electrical
mike@dbelectrical.com
800-753-2242
Starters, Alternators and more for Cars, Trucks, Tractors and ATVs

 

i 2nd LWBblue, I purchased a unit for a p38 (105amp) and swapped the pulley from the existing unit. Hookups and mounts were the same on the 95. Unsure about earlier models.... Just saying I was happy with my result.

 

I got two bad ones from autozone and I suspect my current one is at least part of the problem on my low idle.

 

Just a word to the wise.. Alternators don't like totally flat batteries, as they tend to max the output current, I was told by a refurbishers to either charge the battery before starting, or, to leave the jump leads connected for 10 minutes after starting to help reduce the load on the new alternator... I haven't suffered a failed rebuilt unit since...

 

Hope you got it sorted out. I recently had an Alt.issue and took the unit to Autozone. They tested it and I was able to definitively rule out that as the source of my problem(without buying a new one first). Fortunately for me after replacing a couple of connections and re grounding, she was back on the road

 

I'm having this same issue, what connections and grounds did you check?