I can't think of anyone here that has taken this on yet. The engine rattle and timing issue posts are just recently increasing with the Jag engines. You may very well be in uncharted DIY territory. :thumb:

 

:shock: Oh boy :shock:

Its Guinea Pig time.

 

Update. I got home and started investigating the engine noise and it turns out that its the supercharger coupling which is the cause. Very easy to check - simply remove the supercharger drive belt and see if you can feel any play on the pulley before you feel the supercharger turning. (the noise is a random clattering sound from the the engine/supercharger at idle but goes away as the revs build up and the supercharger is put under load.

To get the belt off I used a 3/8th's drive ratchet which you engage in the square hole on the tensioner itself. Then using the ratchet as the lever, release the belt tension and the belt can then be removed. The only things that need to be removed first are the acoustic engine cover and the plastic intake.

So I have ordered a replacement coupler and will get busy with the job in a few weeks. Plus will do the supercharger oil change while I am about it.

 

Plus will do the supercharger oil change while I am about it.

Supercharger oil change you say hmmmmm??? Now I'm curious. Anyone know how to do this? I will google it but if someone has a write-up it would be cool to see it for the 2010+

 

My research tells me the oil change is done on the rear of the supercharger for the 2010 model. I cant say whether the fill plug is accessible or not but I will be removing the unit anyway to replace the coupling so will do the oil then.

 

Googled it and some say it is at the back, some say it is at the front. Strangely enough, no one has taken a pic or done a write up. From what I am reading, it seems pretty straight forward and you can use GM Supercharger oil as it is made by Eaton, the same company that makes SCs for GM, Ford and Dodge.

 

Dude that is some serious knocking going on. It sounds like a timing issue. You will need to have the timing system checked. If it's not under warranty, you know what NOT to do, hint hint.

 

No sure what you mean. What should I not do?

 

Looking at a '10 FFRR N/A, with this noise....
https://vimeo.com/198610085

It's cheap, but wanted the opinion of someone who has experienced the timing chain and guide issues to let me know the engine is probably OK....

Martin

 

Yeah I got bad news for you. The fan coupler is a chronic problem.. Mine was replaced twice under warranty and it is STILL ticking when it's really cold outside. I don't know what this means but I'm just gonna leave it for now and hope for the beast until I can figure out a permanent solution to this. One option is to switch it to an electric fan system but that's beyond my technical abilities.

 

Fan coupler? I am talking about the supercharger coupling. There is also a viscous fan ticking noise that seems to affect these cars - I have noticed mine doing it occasionally. But thats a rhythmic ticking one notices at idle.

 

Yup that's exactly what I'm talking about. The SC coupler I am not familiar with.

 

Different engine but similar sound to my SC rattle. I also found this explanation taken from EATON's patent on the torsion damper

Torsion damping mechanism for a supercharger
US 8042526 B2
During non-supercharging, low engine speed or idle speed operation, the meshed teeth of the blower timing gears may be substantially unloaded and may bounce or clash back and forth against each other through the backlash therebetween. The bounce or clash may produce an objectionable noise known as gear rattle and is believed to be caused by torsionals in the supercharger drive torque provided by periodic combustion engines.

 

How do you take the supercharger belt off? Should I loosen the bolt on this pulley? And is it safe to start the car up without the belt for this test?

 

No. You use a 3/8 drive ratchet or similar in the square hole to lever this tensioner which will loosen the belt and allow removal. I would make sure the belt wont be able to flap around before starting the engine and wouldn't run the engine for too long as the belt will be stationary while the crankshaft pulley is spinning.

 

No. You use a 3/8 drive ratchet or similar in the square hole to lever this tensioner which will loosen the belt and allow removal. I would make sure the belt wont be able to flap around before starting the engine and wouldn't run the engine for too long as the belt will be stationary while the crankshaft pulley is spinning.
View attachment 214530

Thanks ghur. Took the belt off to be safe. Turns out most of the noise was from the supercharger. Did you ever fix yours? There's a guy on ebay selling new snouts(link below) for about $250 after core charge. Is it an easy job to replace it? or would the supercharger have to come out?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122328794465

 

I had a similar "tick" on my 2010 RRS supercharged. It is the impeller part in the supercharger. The dealer would not fix it as it is "not broken yet". I think it is a spring. If you still have the problem and want more info I can go look up my service record on it. There was a guy on Ebay selling a better part to fix the problem but it involves taking the supercharger apart. Looked it up. Impeller isolator spring.

 

Hi guys, I own a 2010 Range Rover sport supercharged and i feel my engine noise has a different "tick" than the superchager noise I've been listening to. Here is a video clip of what my engine sounds like

https://vimeo.com/203946569

I also notice when I am not moving at a red light in any gear, my car vibrates a lot. I brought it to a mechanic and he said most likely the engine mounts would need to be changed, however the car only has 110,000km on it and was told that the mounts usually don't fail this early

 

LiangA - my 2010 with 86K miles sounds EXACTLY the same as your video on vimeo above. Exactly. Mine had the timing chain tensioners and the supercharger nosecone / pulley thing replaced about 10K miles ago, so it's not that.

Hi guys, I own a 2010 Range Rover sport supercharged and i feel my engine noise has a different "tick" than the superchager noise I've been listening to. Here is a video clip of what my engine sounds like

https://vimeo.com/203946569

I also notice when I am not moving at a red light in any gear, my car vibrates a lot. I brought it to a mechanic and he said most likely the engine mounts would need to be changed, however the car only has 110,000km on it and was told that the mounts usually don't fail this early

 

Just an update on mine, changing the supercharger snout didn't fix it. Apparently the timing chain tensioner noise is inconsistent so when I ran the car without the SC belt it happened to be in it's quit mode... taking it in to pull the engine out. Can't stand the tractor sound.

 

Keep us updated on your progress! If all goes well I may consider as well. However I feel with the bill that I'll be receiving after, It would cover a big chunk towards the newer model Range Rover sport

 

I changed the supercharger coupler today and all is well. No more clattering noise. The following link shows the play in the shaft.

https://youtu.be/gtAiLHVNNGs

Not the easiest Range Rover job I have done and definitely not for the fainthearted. The official manual is very vague and one has to interpolate the instructions plus there are two electrical multi plugs that connect to the Symposer and Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor which are both located on the rear of the supercharger unit. Impossible to remove until the whole unit has been unbolted and then lifted and pulled forward. The supercharger weighs a fair amount and I had one helper when removing it which helped a little but was still a mission. Then I engaged brain and used my engine crane for the refitting which made life very much easier.

I had planned to change the oil while I had the unit out of the car but my order from the USA had not arrived. Lucky I had a coupler on the shelf waiting for another job. The coupler I removed was still in one piece but very worn and had a lot of play as can be seen from the YouTube link. I can confirm that trying to change the oil with the supercharger in place would be next to impossible.

 

I changed the supercharger coupler today and all is well. No more clattering noise. The following link shows the play in the shaft.

https://youtu.be/gtAiLHVNNGs

Not the easiest Range Rover job I have done and definitely not for the fainthearted. The official manual is very vague and one has to interpolate the instructions plus there are two electrical multi plugs that connect to the Symposer and Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor which are both located on the rear of the supercharger unit. Impossible to remove until the whole unit has been unbolted and then lifted and pulled forward. The supercharger weighs a fair amount and I had one helper when removing it which helped a little but was still a mission. Then I engaged brain and used my engine crane for the refitting which made life very much easier.

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I had planned to change the oil while I had the unit out of the car but my order from the USA had not arrived. Lucky I had a coupler on the shelf waiting for another job. The coupler I removed was still in one piece but very worn and had a lot of play as can be seen from the YouTube link. I can confirm that trying to change the oil with the supercharger in place would be next to impossible.

Ahahah I was going to attempt the supercharger pulley as I feel that my noise was coming from there but based on these pictures I guess I'm going to have to send it out. But, after listening to your video, I am more sure it's coming from the pulley so thanks for sharing!

 

DUC1098 did you figure out the cause of the sound? My 2010 S/C is making the exact same noise

 

It's quieter but I can still hear a rattle sometimes. Spent about $6500. I might charge it back to my credit card because the mechanic told me that the clunking sound you hear when you turn the car off is one of the causes but it's still doing the same thing when I turn it off. On top of all that my AC stopped blowing cold after I got the car back so leads me to believe they punctured something when they were working on it. Car only has 68k miles..

 

Hey DUC1098

I have a 2010 RRS SC with a similar sound to what you have in your video...the car runs fine but when I took it in to the dealership to have a small repair done they acted like my car was going to explode and gave me a preliminary quote of $10-14K to have the timing belt and supercharger snouts replaces (or something like that). After a full diagnoses they said it would cost ~$7500.

I've got 105,000 on the car right now, what happens if I don't address the clicking problem? And did you have your work done at a dealership or indy shop? Is the sound gone after the work?

Thx

 

Hey DUC1098

I have a 2010 RRS SC with a similar sound to what you have in your video...the car runs fine but when I took it in to the dealership to have a small repair done they acted like my car was going to explode and gave me a preliminary quote of $10-14K to have the timing belt and supercharger snouts replaces (or something like that). After a full diagnoses they said it would cost ~$7500.

I've got 105,000 on the car right now, what happens if I don't address the clicking problem? And did you have your work done at a dealership or indy shop? Is the sound gone after the work?

Thx

Hello User, For me I think The dealership is telling the truth, But to be honest, It's not safe to drive with that issue As the engine won't blast, but there is chances the engine will brake down (FIRE UP) and then eventually DIE, Which you know is a HUGE problem which cost about 10,000 - 20,000 AED = 4-5 Lakhs,
And I don't advice you to go to any "indy" shop as they will DESTROY your car as how they did to my 2009 Altima, It was a simple A/C Heating Issue, They made it worse until I had to sell it as I paid more than 7k just for it, I think you should go for the dealership but Request you to bargain, As that's the price of Ur car' s engine...

PEACE ✌

 

I have a 2011 RRSportSC with 118,000 miles. I have a CNA extended warranty. My vehicle VIN falls within range of those with potentially bad timing chain tensioners. CNA has just approved repairs to replace chain tensioners and guides as well as supercharger snout. Approximate cost is $5400.

 

Repairs above completed as well as replaced electric fan due to "clicking" noise. The vehicle sounds normal again without the loud "rattling" noise. I'm not sure whether the chain tensioners or the snout took care of the issue.

 

Seems like Jag may have a solution that has not been adopted by LR?

https://jlr.oemdtc.com/76/superchar...6/supercharger-clattering-knock-rattle-noise-5-0l-v8-sc-engine-2010-2016-jaguar

 

Land Rover does have a similar one. Technical Bulletin JTB00349v2

 

Hello, did you ever change the supercharger coupling? If so did you have to remover supercharger? Thanks, I’m changing the coupler now but almost impossible to get to 2 bolts.

 

If yours is V8 supercharger, You have to look at the timing belts if they are worn out or not, and if Ur speedometer Display shows a warning "Engine Prohibited Problem" It's advisable to take it to a mechanic or Not use it for long or speed drive,
Thx

 

You can get to all of them (except one) and remove them. You will need to undo cooling Y-pipe from the engine block 2 torx bolts then pull it up, twist it, lean it forward etc...to get the lower two bolts to loosen/remove them. The top right bolt (as you look at engine from the front) you will have to loosen out as far as you can then cut it off with a dremel tool. You'll have the shave some material off of the driver's side intake/cover (you'll notice where this needs to be done when you loosen this 10mm bolt in the first place) Then replace bolt with a hex-head bolt to have room to put this whole snout assembly back on. If you don't want to do all this you can loosen the supercharger from the intake manifold (after you remove the 27 torx bolts for just the cover of the supercharger) then lift the bottom portion up - to remove another 10mm bolt that's on the side of this driver intake. Then this right bolt doesn't need to be cut or replaced. Easy a Pie!

 

Here are some pictures if needed. The four bolts shown (Intake) are in reference to the driver's side that you'll need to remove - but easier to show where they are located in the picture from the pass-side. Sorry for the extensive use of Paint to help edit these pictures (right click on picture - view image - to enlarge)

What you can do after this bolt is switched out without removing the supercharger

 

The engine rattle and timing issue posts are just recently increasing with the Jag engines.