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Discussion Starter #1
After reading some of the arguments over oil. I was woundering if I should use a zinc aditive with my GTX? Any ideas?

Also what aditive would you use?


I know Valvolines VR1 oil I use in my Corvette is high zinc but its racing oil. Not what I need for my 17yr old Rover. `) But I am guessing that zinc helps with wear. Like what a high proformance car expirences.
 

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It is about providing protection when there is no oil. The higher the concentration of zinc the longer the protection. But too much has been proven to be harmful in other areas. You are probably looking for something between 800 and 1400 PPM for a rover V8.
 

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Most modern oils and low viscosity oils have very low zinc levels due to the zinc shortening the life of cat converters.

Diesel oils are high in zinc and so are the Penrite HRP range of oils, however, I'm not sure if you can get them in the US.
 

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It's not the cats, it's the EPA. Zinc lubricates the valve train, areas like hydraulic lifter to cam. It's been eliminated from most all off the shelf non-racing oils due to EPA emissions of zinc for the last two years, not because it harms the cats. I've heard of an amazingly high number of cars using off the shelf zincless oils that the valve train has cratered in the last year.
 

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What's the reason you want to run additives? In my opinion it won't prolong the life of the engine, only regular changes with good quality oil will do that. Land Rover says 20,000km service intervals which I think is to much. Dad serviced his 77 model every 10,000km with GTX2 and it did 1.4 milion km. 8-0= With a lot of heavy long distance towing and sand work.
 

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benji said:
What's the reason you want to run additives? In my opinion it won't prolong the life of the engine, only regular changes with good quality oil will do that. Land Rover says 20,000km service intervals which I think is to much. Dad serviced his 77 model every 10,000km with GTX2 and it did 1.4 milion km. 8-0= With a lot of heavy long distance towing and sand work.


Wow! What motor?Any engine work done?
 

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Just a standard motor. I'm not sure on the service intervals Rover specified for these early ones, but 10,000 oil and filter changes is what Dad (a mechanic of fourty years) puts it down to. Normaly it had a pretty easy life, changed gears at 3000rpm, (although 7300rpm is 96kph in 2nd high, that was a huge dune!) Interestingly it was on lpg for the majority of it's life. it went through one clutch, a timing chain and wheels, and three pushrods.
 

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Go to discoweb.org and do a search in the discovery forum for Chris St. Louis (real name is Chris Scheafer) and oil high temperature high shear rating. He is a mechanic that has done a lot of research on appropriate oils for specific applications, and how oil grades arent always the same between brands. I cant access discoweb.org right now, but the gist of his discussion was the Buick derived Land Rover engines (range rover and discovery 3.5, 3.9, 4.0, and 4.6L engines), prior to the Jag engines are flat tappet engines requiring a high temperature high shear (HTHS) rating of 3.5. So when looking at appropriate oils for your rover, look at the spec sheet for this rating. Off the top of my head, some of the oils I have used are Mobil 1 Synthetic 0w40 and 15w50, Rotella 15w40 and Rotella Synthetic 5w50. In the discussion there is an entire list of appropriate and inappropriate oils for use in your rover engine.
 

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Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W50 mineral (also avail. as a 10W-30) is very high in Zinc/phosphorus (zddp) which is good for the Rover V8s and other flat tappet design engines.

Pity it's so hard to find down here in New Zealand. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So 20w50 is a good weight for my 4.2 in out 90 degree tropical weather??

10w30 want cut the mustard. And it sounds like Im dry starting on 10w40. VR1 is good stuff, I use it in my Vette projects.
 

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Doc, I use 20w50 here in hot south Texas. I also add some Lucas Oil treatment occassionaly. THe only time I will use a lower weight here is if I am changing my oil in the dead of winter and we are having a cold winter. This year was the first cold one we have had in about 4 years (got below freezing about 3-4 times).

Running down to Padre Island and having to drive at 15-20 mph along the dunes for an hour and watching for nesting sea turtles can really stress the engine. THat don't include the 20-30 minutes in low 4 wheel to get over the dunes to the back bays to fish. I feel the higher weight oil is the only way to go from spring to fall.

Next change, coming soon, I will look into the Valvoline VR1.

Parker
1993 LWB Plymouth Blue
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What milage are you guys at? Im at 240,000. So is the higher weight oil still a good idea?
 

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Hi Leo,

Ignore that question that I sent you in the PM!

Running low viscosity oils is fine when an engine is new, but 240 000 is high miles, even if its only KMs.

The Rover V8 is a very old design & I would recommend a minimum of 15W-40 in moderate climates. I use a 20W-60 on my 1990 3.9L which has 177kms/ 110 miles.

From my experience lower viscosity engine oils are suited to newer design motors and dont have the anti wear additives (zddp) and detergents that the high viscosity do.

I know that RPi Engineering who are Rover V8 specialists recommend the Valvoline VR1.


It sounds like you have had a pretty good run out of your 4.2. Does it use much oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
None really to speak of. That engine has proven itself. Tows my boat 3 times a week with out any trouble even with that kind of milage.


I guess I will make the switch next oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Heres a idea. What about running half high milage oil and half high zinc VR1? So I get zinc and still the cleaning action of the high milage oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok I called Ashland and talked to Valvolines techs today. Turns out VR1 has twice the zinc levels of high milage oil and nearly as much detergent, just a few 100 ppm less. So VR1 is a good all around oil for the Rover V8.


Now we can bicker about oil filters. :thumb: `)
 

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Good call. I wouldn't go mixing oils. I'm probably going to go down to a 15W-40 mixed fleet oil as now we are heading into winter in New Zealand. Mixed fleet oil is for petrol and diesel so has all the diesel zinc and detergent properties.


As for filters, don't touch a Fram. I had one on my 1990 3.9 V8 and took about 10 seconds for the oil light to go out on startup. I switched to a Mahle oil filter and oil light went out immediatley on startup. I'm currently using a Britpart oil filter, no problems but will probably go to a Wix oil filter next time as I can get them for 1/3 the price of the aforementioned brands with a friends discount.

Hopefully your 4.2 provides many more years reliable service. How clean are the rockers etc when you look down thru the oil filler hole?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I havent even taken a peak. Ive been rather scared too. :roll: When I started on high milage oil 25,000mi ago it would turn black within a 3min drive. Now the oil is still pretty clean at 3,000mi so the high milage oils work. I have always ran Wix filters. The auto parts store I use has a Fram, Wix, and their house brand sliced open and even the $1.50 store brand filter is better made than a Fram. Rpage has a study that was done on all major filters and Car Quest, Napa Gold, and Wix filters are about the only one that even filter. :think: I plan on pulling the valve covers to see how everything looks before switching to VR1. I have never used anything but Castrol in my Rovers so I want to have a idea of what eveything looks like before I switch.
 

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Don't overrate the importance of zinc for a rover V8. Studies in the past have shown that 800ppm is all that is required and anything over 1,400ppm can actually cause damage. It is not a product where more is necessarily better. So any oil with between 800ppm and 1400ppm has more than adequate zinc protection for you.
 
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