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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
Does anyone know how many hours it should take for an LR Indy shop to change the ZF 6 speed pan with built in filter & oil on a 2010 RRS? I already have the parts so I don't want to do the metal pan conversion. I know the engine mount needs to removed or loosened and the exhaust needs to be dropped little so it won't be an hours job but I would like to get some idea.

Regards,
Karl
 

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Assuming the bolts on the cross bar are not rusted and don't have to be drilled out...I would estimate 3-4 hours of work. What's your shop telling you?
 

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Alldata calls for 4.6 hours to do the pan, which includes drain and filling the oil. I would add in the " guide sleeve", can't recall the part name, but I would get that done too if you are getting the pan+filter done. Let me know if you want the instructions ....not sure if it's posted here somewhere too.
 

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How many miles do you have on this? Seems early for a 2010.
It's a long way between Horton's... especially dodging mooses... meeces... moosi...
 

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That's true.

By the way, I'm at 117K, and I think I'm just going with the 3 qts out 3 qts in, rinse & repeat method. Every trans pan I've ever dropped at 120K has been clean and since this one is such a PITA to remove...

Unless that mechatronic sleeve is leaking.
 

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you're welcome `)

It might be the stupidest name ever for a piece of plastic.
 

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Alldata calls for 4.6 hours to do the pan,
Good data point which proves that it gets done in less time (3-4 hours). The book always calls for more time. Again...all assuming no rusted bolts (in my case, with all the salty sea air) had to spend some time on getting those out.
 

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Good data point which proves that it gets done in less time (3-4 hours). The book always calls for more time. Again...all assuming no rusted bolts (in my case, with all the salty sea air) had to spend some time on getting those out.
True - also I've been to Calgary and Ft. Mac and with the winters there I'm sure it may get rusted...

Assuming OP drives 10-15k/yr, he must have 50 to 75k miles. So if he is a big of a freak/paranoid like me to do an early maintenance, it should be ok right :). I don't go by the 120k rule ...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bang on Frisco-TX-RRS, I have 75k miles and this is purely a PM item. I also have the Megatronic sleeve (what dipwad came up with that name?) so that will get changed also. If you have the procedure I would like to see it as I have access to a lift and fully stocked shop.
 

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Well, I'll disagree. Unless you've burnt the heck out of the fluid towing or doing burnouts that fluid is fine to 120K. Don't like to see people spend money when they don't need to.

But if the sleeve is leaking...
 

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Ahhh but there is the catch. Is it not better to change fluids early so that fluid does not end up burnt? After all would you rather have two plates of light fluffy pancakes or one plate of burnt pancakes? I;d rather have two plates, even if I can;t finish them, than deal with one plate of nasty burnt pancakes. Then you have the issue of the burnt stuff in the pan/tranny to clean up instead of a nice shiny clean pan/tranny.

Sorry. THe thought of Horton's has me craving maple syrup now...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dam it,
All this talk of Tim Horton's, now I have to go get a coffee, maybe Boston cream to go with. I wont sleep tonight with the caffeine but I will have lots of time to ponder the pros & cons of early preventive maintenance. Nobody suggest decaf, that is like washing your feet with socks on...there is just no point to it.

Thanks to everyone for their responses
 

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LMAO... I am also partial to a box of timbits on occasion. :lol:

I for one don't see 75K as all that early. Compared with down time, tranny issues or failure it is good comfort zone insurance. It's the same line of thinking for the folks that change their motor oil at 7500 instead of 15K.
 

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Keeping the fluids clean and fresh...diffs, transfer case and transmission has been a key to success for me - almost at 190K and no whine or wear out on any of those components. I want to see 200K by the end of this year with no blown components. I have done diffs at 30K, transmission and tranny case at 75K. Now to be fair...both tranny and transmission have been very clean even at 75K so you could stretch it 100k, but since I'm towing quite often, I think it's cheap insurance to do the PM.

Now...if I can only find a good pancake house tomorrow morning...and some Vermont Maple Syrup with a twig of Madagascar Vanilla bean...all will be good!

Have fun with the project!
 

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Just be aware that LR specify changing the oil at 10years/150,000miles (240,000km) if the vehicle is used normally. Must be changed earlier if used in arduous conditions such as offroad, towing or commuting. The reason for the high distance is to meet EU pollution requirements and waste oil comes under that so the longer the change interval the less waste oil.

However ZF the makers of the gearbox and the standard fluid say the oil should be changed at 50,000miles - as well as the filter. Big difference between the two - I would lean towards the ZF interval. Replacing the plastic sump with the metal sump makes changing the filter easier.

Reading many different forums I have yet to come across of an outright catastrophic failure of the gearbox - all failures have been caused by oil degradation causing wear and torque converter failure well before the LR service interval. There are exceptions though.

My own box is about to get a metal sump and oil change (top up and drain then top up method) at 60,000miles though I only have the little 2.7 diesel not your high powered V8 petrol engines so my gearbox will not have as much wear and tear as most of the north american vehicles.

I am also changing to a local oil that is 1/3 the price of the Lifeguard 6 but with the new sump I will change the gearbox oil every time the engine oil is changed.

Garry
 
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