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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, looking for some help with my issue. So I picked up a 2004 gasoline powered L322 RR for a great deal. She's a real beauty, however she has slipping transmission when hot and P0732 code. Shifts through the gears just fine when cold but pretty quickly when it gets warm it will slip in 1st gear and drop to 5th gear throwing trans failsafe error. I have been doing research here and suspected the bad bearing and broken seal between the A and B clutch because the symptoms match that. So I ventured in and have removed the transmission. I opened it up and sure enough I see the bearing is in bad shape, but it appears I got to it quickly. Also, I see the broken seal clear as day. Here is my question. Can I simply replace this needle bearing and seal and put her back together? Can someone help me with the part numbers I would need?
I know I need new fluid and a new trans filter which I can pick up from BPutah, but what else and where can I source them?

Here are pics of my bearing and broken seal. Any help would be appreciated. Perhaps Phil could chime in.
Thank you to anyone who can point me in the right direction.
20181013_194556.jpg 20181013_194605.jpg 20181013_201211.jpg
 

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As long as you have none of the needle rollers missing and un-accounted for then, yes, you can just replace the seal and bearing and then rebuild your transmission again.

You just need to remove and check the condition of the bearing race still in the B-clutch hub to make sure that it hasn’t worn down it’s mounting face as this will upset the end float measurement.



Are the three pads on the B-clutch drum worn at all?



The bearing part number is 1058 202 016 and the O-ring seal is 0734 313 151

Phil

P.S. If you’re still on the original torque converter you should give some thought to replacing it (or having yours re-manufactured) while the transmission is out of the vehicle, as the torque converter lock-up clutch tends to wear at higher mileages.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
As usual, you are correct! The B clutch drum is worn even worse than your example. Please let me know what else I need to order. Looks like I will not be getting off as scott free as I had hoped but still think I will be making out like a bandit if I can do this project on my own. Thanks so much for your help! 20181014_091246.jpg
 

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Has the end of the A-clutch drum clashed with the inside of the B-clutch hub and machined it away at all? You may need another B-clutch hub (part no. 1058 271 041).

Can you remove the axial thrust bearing race/washer from its recess in the B-clutch hub? It is sometimes a pain to get out. I lift it fractionally with a magnet so I can just about get a small screwdriver under it to pry it out. Mind your fingers though because it sometimes wears so thin that it’s as sharp as a knife edge. If the hub is worn underneath the bearing race/washer then the hub will have to be replaced. The new bearing includes a new race/washer.

Also, are you able to measure the thickness of the front end float shim?



It sometimes sticks to the stator shaft in the oil pump housing:



The shim is available in nine different thicknesses so that the end float can be set to 0.20-0.40mm







I’m guessing that yours has the 1.8mm shim?

Phil
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
I confirm there has been some grinding to the inside of the B clutch. Does not seem horrible. I would be okay purchasing a new one, but see the picture and let me know what you think.
20181014_141711.jpg

Also, I removed the race in the B-Clutch. It does show considerable wear, but was not razor thin.
20181014_140859.jpg
Measuring thickness of the float shim I think .018 looks correct. I do not have a digital caliper, unfortunately.
20181014_140934.jpg
This is so exciting, I can't thank you enough Phil for your guidance!
 

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Rock Auto is one source that has some transmission parts, but not all.
They've got some Transmaxx parts and rebuild kits, Dacco rebuilt torque converters for $186 + core charge, and a few drums. Pentosin ATF1 transmission fluid. I don't buy transmission filters from them though, but I only use the original LR trans filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Rangiemark, That is really good info. Thank you. I think I might even have a coupon for them and I do plan on buying a new torque converter and whatever else RRPhil recommends. Very excited to get my '04 back together. Interesting thing about me is I am a Land Rover fanatic. I actually have 7 on my property right now and 2 of them are daily drivers. I have 4 P38 Range Rovers and 2 DII's all 99-02 Bosch engines and new to the stall is my first Gen 3 Range Rover. Some day I might sell one but I just like keeping them as I picked them all up for less than $1000. I have made such a great hobby by tinkering with them and learning how to fix them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here is a pic of my new gem. The interior is in great shape and I can tell she has had many visits to the dealership. Once the transmission is fixed she will be awesome!
20180920_190745.jpg
 

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If you replace the B-clutch hub (the component with the 3 pads) with a new one then, together with the new bearing, the chances are that the end float will be back to the factory setting and you won’t therefore need to replace the selective shim.

I’m obviously on the other side of the pond to you and the only ‘official’ ZF part suppliers that I know of over there are The California Transmission Supply Company www.thectsc.com and Eriksson Industries https://zftranspart.pinnaclecart.com//. If you’re really struggling then I could send you parts from the UK but I guess the shipping would be expensive.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fantastic! I had to order from a few different companies to get all the parts.

I made a big order from Cobra Transmissions-
1 ea.ZF5HP24 O-Ring - Input Shaft$4.99
1 ea.ZF5HP24, Hub w/ Shaft$217.99
1 ea.ZF5HP24 Torque Converter$289.99

The CTSC had the best price on the bearing and esso fluid
Product NamePriceQuantityTotal
Needle bearing 5HP24
1058 202 016 01
$28.50
(Not Taxable)
1$28.50
ZF LifeGuard5 - Case of 6 x 1L Container
S671 CASE 170 01
$88.00
(Not Taxable)
1$88.00

And I bought an OEM transmission filter from BPUTAH for $80

I cant wait to get all my parts in and get her back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got my parts in today!
Cleaned everything with brake cleaner.
Slathered up the new seal, old seals, and all bearings with generous amounts of petroleum jelly

20181025_201113.jpg 20181025_201222.jpg
Fashioned a very simple assembly rig using some PVC drain and my vise

20181025_202159.jpg
Put the transmission on a couple of 4x4's so I could erect it vertical and completed the assembly.
20181025_202425.jpg 20181025_204605.jpg
All in all, the transmission work was all too simple.
This weekend I will install the transmission and the moment of truth will be upon me!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are there any special procedures to follow when filling the transmission from dry? What is the best way to fill the torque converter? Do I just keep filling while the vehicle idles? I want to make sure I do this correctly and the rave does not mention any different steps to follow.
 

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The pump flow rate tops out at 47 litres/minute above 2000rpm and even at fast idle, when cold, it’s shoving 20 litres/minute through the converter, so I generally don’t even bother pre-filling it. Just fill the transmission up through the filler/level plug without the engine running first, loosely replace the plug, start the engine and get the transmission fluid up to 40°C and then remove the filler/level plug and top up again (while the engine is running).





Phil
 

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Plain 'ol petroleum jelly is good for assembly of the tranny?
Did you need specialty tools to do this, or just fabricated what you need like the assembly stand from PVC?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Happy to report my Range Rover shifts like a dream! No real special tools needed. I must admit, I have a lift which helped immensely!
 

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That's great to hear. I need to do the same, as my 2003 is getting where it hesitates engaging into gear especially after sitting for a couple of days, and the torque converter is exhibiting the typical problems too.
That's on hold for now - the RR is overwhelming me with stereotypical RR problems. The BCU isn't working right, but that could be something else on the CAN bus too. The catalytic converter gremlins, rear axle clicking, reported thermostat heater failure and/or MAF sensor problems. It's really testing my loyalty to it.
I've had it 10 years and although I've had vehicles longer and older, this thing's been the neediest I've ever had.

Too many problems are making me consider dumping it for some more reliable and just as plush and more functional Ford or Dodge pickup truck. Looked a Ram Laramie Long Horn yesterday, with air suspension it rides as nice as an RR, and very comfortable, but it has a bed that I can fit things in, and I'm sure that it's more reliable than a Land Rover.

BUT if I can get time, and take care of all the other problems, I hope to drop the transmission and work on it too.
 

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Hi RR Phil , i have a 2005 l322 with 243,000 miles. All has been well with the transmission till recently , beggining to experience the dreaded torque converter humming and some unusual revs between 2nd &3rd ****fting.. it goes away as i speed up.
I suspect i need to perform an in-depth transmission service as it has ever had one besides the filter and fluids changes performed annually .I have been reading your posts regularly and feel confident i can understake the service without taking the vehicle in as i am an engineer (electrical/mechanical).

I believe i have all the requeired part numbers except for the bell housing gasket and i do not have the schematics for the transmission.Would you be so kind to share that with me or point me in the right direction (exploded diagrams).

I plan on dropping the transmission soon and looking it over to spot the worn parts that need replacing.. she has performed quite a bit of heavy towing and is still strong however i plan on keeping the vehicle to the end and htis some preventetive maintenance would be good for it.Regards, Jack.
 

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Hi phil thank you for the prompt response. I won’t be overhauling the entire unit just was the worn parts and seals that really need it.

Thank you for the links and drawings, will try to post my progress as I go. Haven’t started yet as I have some work priorities to get out of the way . Once I venture in and get a good visual I will decide the depth of the service based on wear and tear prognosis. Much appeared. Jack
 

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Thanks a ton again phil , the manual link you provided will do just fine. just took a look and it's exactly what i need for part orders, tear down &reconstruction. Regards, Jack
 
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