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Hi, I would like to ask, who did you get the remapped eprom from ? Is it a straightforward plug and play job, or do you have to take the vehicle in, to get it done ?

Pierre3.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Kapila: sorry I can't help further. I got a garage to do the job, but note the gearbox and transfer box together weigh about 180 Kgs or 400 lbs.

Pierre3: a proper remap is best which involves a change of chip. However you can get plug in devices that fool the FIP into overfueling.
I originally got mine chipped by superchips https://www.superchips.co.uk/ They have have local agents throughout the UK and I also see one in Dublin.
Since then I have done a few myself. Not an easy job.
 

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Yes, there is no plate like Gems or holes like Thor . I have experience with my Toyota and know how to remove/install TC/ transmission.
Must clean everything and see again whether a rubber bung type cover is there. Rave is silent on this matter with the diesel.

Thanks Dave. You are the one who inspired me to do the 22 to 24 swap and appreciate that.

Pierre3 - this is what I did. fantastic.............
https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/3095-dse-powerchip-wow-long-detailed-poss-boring.html
 

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Hey Dave3d
I am very much a 'newbie' when it comes to this forum; in fact I've only just discovered what a forum is. But even allowing for my minimal knowledge of 'forums' I am gobsmacked that 7yrs after post you can respond to Kapilamuni and Pierre. That's impressive. Particularly when you see the appreciative returns. I'm still shaking my head at the wonder of it all...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Cityhog, welcome to the forum.

I have had my p38 for 17 years now and I still have it, otherwise I wouldn't be on here. I know Kapila has had his p38 a long time as well. We have emailed each other in the past on various issues.
I think most p38 owners tend to keep their cars. It is a car to keep longterm, though maybe not as a first drive car.
It was the last Rangerover to be built "properly" on a separate chassis and with live axles. I don't personnally don't like unitary body construction and independant suspension for an off road vehicle. New models also have too much bling for me.
 

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Forums are to help each other by gaining knowledge from experience of others. Dave & others here have been very helpful. I own this car since 2009 & have had various problems & got sorted with help from others. I myself is a Haynes Manual guy with no technical experience or training when I started.
Keep rovering. :):)
 

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Hi all,
Finally managed to remove the tfr box and the transmission units separately. No 4 post lift but a 3 ton trolley jack/4 jack stands, 3 ton bottle jack and the scissor jack from my Audi with lots of wood pieces.
Here are few pictures.

The TC bolts were removed through the small hole in the bottom of gearbox (4th photo). It's impossible to get to them through the st motor opening or the rear plate opening on the other side, as none of the circular openings of the flywheel(3 of them) align with the TC bolts.
Now I have a problem , how to torque the TC bolts on assembly, as only a ring spanner can reach the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Kapilla,

Sorry can't help with the torque wrench. Looks like you are nearly there but one or two other things have sprung to mind with the conversion.
First is fairly obvious, use your original diesel gearbox ECU, not the petrol one. Also the screw fitting on the end of the oil cooler pipes where it screws into the gearbox are a different size, HP24 vs HP22. It needs a thread adapter making up. I have the size written down in my notes somewhere. Guessing from memory it is 18mm/22mm ? You will be carrying on using the diesel gearbox oil cooler.
If you measure the gearbox and the end of the pipes you will see the difference in sizes.
 

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You can find crowfoot ring spanners at merely "ouch" prices that slot onto a standard torque wrench. Don't care for the myself as they are slotted through at one end and intrinsically weak. Ordinary crowfoots are open end and not a lot of use in there.

The proper professional types are spigot fitting into the end of a special torque wrench. Expensive and the torque wrench is an "are you sitting down with smelling salts in your hand" jobbie when asking the price.

The Facom JSPR 12 point ring adapters are a bit nearer normal mortal pricing, if you only want one, see https://www.expert-toolstore.com/facom-torque-accessories/3998-facom-j7spr-3-8-square-drive-metric-12pt-ring-spanners but £55 odd for a one job tool is a bit rich. The J.J9SPR set of nine (doh) https://www.expert-toolstore.com/facom-torque-accessories/3999-facom-jj9spr-9pc-3-8-square-drive-metric-12pt-ring-spanner-set-case is £455 near enough so comprehensive ambition doesn't come cheap. 49% off retail the site says.

And I thought Snap On were expensive. I imagine they do their own version at similar heart attack cost.

Laser also do a set Model Number 7286 https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/7286 list price around £200 although out in the real world of Amazon, E-Bay. Machine Mart et al the sets can be found between £90 and £150. Have to admit thats a little saner even tho' Laser and I are most definitely not on speaking terms!

My way would be £0.20 for half decent flat combination spanner at a boot fair and weld a square drive on. Of if I needed good one fire up the shaper and cut a 6 point or 12 point ring and 1/2" or 3/8" square in something suitably obdurate.

Shapers are fun in a fascinatingly Victorian way with the cutter ram swinging smoothly back and forth with minimal fuss and noise. But quiet serenity hides lethality. Most dangerous tool in the shop in my view. With a well geared down 2 hp motor doing the driving the ram on my little 10" Elliot isn't going to stop for anything mobile that gets in the way. That includes people. A big hydraulic Cincinnati or Rockwell will walk straight though a wall if you forget to whack the holding down bolts proper tight.

Clive
 

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Kapilla,

Sorry can't help with the torque wrench. Looks like you are nearly there but one or two other things have sprung to mind with the conversion.
First is fairly obvious, use your original diesel gearbox ECU, not the petrol one. Also the screw fitting on the end of the oil cooler pipes where it screws into the gearbox are a different size, HP24 vs HP22. It needs a thread adapter making up. I have the size written down in my notes somewhere. Guessing from memory it is 18mm/22mm ? You will be carrying on using the diesel gearbox oil cooler.
If you measure the gearbox and the end of the pipes you will see the difference in sizes.
That's another hurdle then. With the HP24 I got part of cooler pipes cut in the middle. May be I can weld them to existing cooler pipes of HP22.
Also, when replacing the bell housing, do I have to replace the "intermediate plate" too?

Thanks Clive, considering the cost & the time to get it down, I'll resort to the same method I used to remove it and use some locktite.
 

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Good news, Dave. The cooler pipe threads are same. Checked easily as both boxes are out in the open.
 

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Sorry, could not post the final outcome as I was busy.
Got the HP24 fitted and running with one issue.
I only changed the bell housing, XYZ Switch & TC from HP22 to HP24, nothing else.

When removing the TC bolts from flex plate the bottom circular opening was used with a 13mm ring spanner supported by a large/longer spanner to get the torque increased. The bolts loosened without any fuss. There is a opening in the engine back plate on RH side but you can't see the bolt and ratchet aligning through the hole in the flywheel. Also, space is limited and can't get a good grip. I locked the engine through crank bolt for removal/installing TC bolts.

The HP24 didn't come with it's XYZ switch. Hence I had to remove mine from HP22 and install it. On removal I may have damaged it as it would not give the proper gear position.
After fitting everything found that shifter cable mounting plate holes (2 of them, 8mm ) are not aligning and had to push it backwards to align & install. This made the cable to bend in the middle with a S shape. With the XYZ playing-up, I decided to get the cable installed properly and drilled two parallel holes on the mounting plate 1.5 cm away from the original position. This allowed proper fitting of the cable.

The issue with the XYZ switch is this;
Shfter in P dash indicates P
..............R..........................P
..............N..........................R
..............D..........................R
..............3..........................D
..............2..........................D
..............1..........................D.

The adjustment in the XYZ didn't do anything and I 'm looking for a XYZ now, though the car starts/runs okay with careful gear selection. Other issue is I can't shift to the LOW transfer as there is no N position.

I did the removal of trans & transmissions solo and got the support of my son when installing. It would have been much easier if someone was there to help from the beginning. Also, I didn't have a transmission jack but bought a 3 Ton trolley jack & used few pieces of wood to prepare my own transmission dolly.

Also, changed the rear crank oil seal since I was there. When removing/ installing flywheel bolts, locked it using the diesel TDC locking tool which held fine.

Hope this helps someone who wish to attend this task on a diesel P38.
 
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