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good day gents
I am suffering from a slight overheating problem that i have solved.it was due to the small hole clogging in the exp tank.i have flushed the coolant and removed the exp tank and cleaned.u won't believe what went out of it.the previous owner never used anti freeze and when i put anti freeze in,all the corosion and dirt de attached and ran through the system.
Now i was thinking of enlarging this small hole in the tank so water will circulate better and prevents clogs.is it recomended?did anybody do it on there p38?
 

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I assume you are referring to the small hose connecting the top of the radiator with the expensian tank?
This is an overflow line which allows the system to bleed itself in the case of an airlock (we all know this is just theory and in practice burping can require some attention). If you were to enlarge this overflow, the flow through the radiator would decrease, resulting in less cooling capacity.
I think it's better to flush the coolant regulary, and make sure nothing gets clogged.

Greetz,

Filip
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Escape said:
I assume you are referring to the small hose connecting the top of the radiator with the expensian tank?
This is an overflow line which allows the system to bleed itself in the case of an airlock (we all know this is just theory and in practice burping can require some attention). If you were to enlarge this overflow, the flow through the radiator would decrease, resulting in less cooling capacity.
I think it's better to flush the coolant regulary, and make sure nothing gets clogged.

Greetz,

Filip
Yes the one,as u know this pipe throws the coolant back into the exp tank through a very tiny hole inside the tank.i was thinking of poking this tiny hole to enlarge it a little bit more coz it keeps on clogging.
 

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If you play in that area, ie expand the hole then you would weaken the nipple and it would likely break which of course would contribute to a quick loss of fluid when least desired. I do think you will have to continue periodic flushes until system is clean, if ever. In old cast iron blocks we would flush with a caustic solution but I have yet to read what solution is used [if any] in an aluminum engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
diff said:
If you play in that area, ie expand the hole then you would weaken the nipple and it would likely break which of course would contribute to a quick loss of fluid when least desired. I do think you will have to continue periodic flushes until system is clean, if ever. In old cast iron blocks we would flush with a caustic solution but I have yet to read what solution is used [if any] in an aluminum engine.
hi.ok then i will leave it alone,i have flushed the system several times,it seems it is clean now,but bleeding the focker from air locks is a pain in the a$$.what would u recommend if i just loosen the exp cap just a tiny bit to relase trapped air?but in a way that no coolant will be thrown out!how these motors are supposed to bleed themselves (when cap is securely closed) while the valve in the exp tank cap won't open unless pressure is 15 psi?how air locks will be relased?
 

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I'm afraid getting air out is a big pain in the a.

You just have to follow instructions in the RAVE. Even if you follow the instructions to a T, you will still get air in the system. You just have to keep your eyes open after refilling coolant. One of the barometer I use to see if I have any air in the system is an erratic movement of the temp needle. If it's erratic, you got air.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TheoR said:
I'm afraid getting air out is a big pain in the a.

You just have to follow instructions in the RAVE. Even if you follow the instructions to a T, you will still get air in the system. You just have to keep your eyes open after refilling coolant. One of the barometer I use to see if I have any air in the system is an erratic movement of the temp needle. If it's erratic, you got air.
Got it.i wana ask,my coolant sensor the one plug sensor,when looked at,it is not screwed fully to the block,there is like 1cm of gap btw the sensor and block,is that normal?or it must b screwed fully to the block?if must b screwed it must b done w engine cold or hot?and if it didn't tightened more should i put extra force?
 

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Which coolant sensors......either way if its not leaking leave it or otherwise trying to get it to go in more may result in it breaking off.

If its the brass one you are refering to then it sounds about right as the thread is on a taper (angled)
 
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