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Discussion Starter #1
Had an accident a couple of days ago. My 1997 P38 4.6 HSE rangie was side-swiped on a bend by an on-coming 4WD; this wiped out all panels/doors on drivers side, but frame was not damaged. The drivers side door handle was smashed with the barrel from the lock crushed etc. I reset the Inertia button and drove home no problems So I got a front guard and 2 doors from a 1995 4.0 SE and bolted them on. I have no key for the new door and my old key does not fit new door. On cranking the engine I got the "Engine Disabled" and "press remote" messages. My remote has never worked since I bought the P38 a few years ago. I then installed the wiring loom and an extra control box from the original door and still have the same problem.

Do I need to move the lock from the original door as well? (I had a problem with microswitches fixed about a year ago). What is the best way to get the Rangie running again?

Also the window reset on the drivers door no longer works and it does not detect when the window is closed but keeps trying to push window higher. Have not tried window on rear door.

Any advice appreciated.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You need to swap the lock over as, without a working fob, you have no chance of getting it started. If the latch is a known good one, you may as well swap that over too. Window setting is a different matter but should be fixed by swapping the door outstation.
 
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if I read correctly, his lock is crushed in the accident.... still need to find a way to make entering EKA possible otherwise you will not get it running I think... was it possible to enter the eka by nanocom?
 

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EKA can be entered via jumpers/grounding the latch wires as described in another thread. on the road so am unable to search
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First, thanks for the fantastic and prompt replies. I realised this was a tricky one.

First problem is to get the doorlock fixed, as without this done I am likely to lock myself out. Also there is no designated EKA key noted in the owners handbook, but a number which I use to reset the radio from time to time (which may be the same).

If I want to disable superlocking, which wire do I cut? I have enough problems right now without this occuring.

GilbertD. As you say the window is a seperate problem. However the doorstation was swapped from the old door, but may have been damaged. After the accident it was able to force the window up and down a bit despite the deformed door. Back home to reverse out the driveway, I lowered the window as far as it would go so I could get my head out of the window. Subsequently I was unable to open the driver door using the Inside door handle. I assume the window bent the linkage to the door lock, but it might have done further damage. Alternately the replacement door might be faulty.
 

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To get the EKA number, you would typically go to the dealer with abundant proof you own the truck, and even better proof you are who you say you are...They will then be able to look it up for you.
I know virtually all NAS spec units have a generic 1515 EKA, not sure about Oz tho...I am sure an Oz based enthusiast will correct me......
Disabling superlocking is not a bad idea, and really, who is going to steal a 18 year old Toorak Tractor? I will be cutting mine next time I need to get into the doors for any reason.
Be sure, when you are replacing outstations etc, that you carefully inspect all the plugs to be sure a wire has not been pulled out from the back of one of them.
 

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I believe (but am not 100%) that there is no EKA in the Australian region setting, as is the case here in the Gulf.

This makes life much easier.
 

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Easier?
How do you enter 0000?
:doh:Without an EKA, you are doomed!
I somehow managed to wipe my EKA code on my 2002, but Dr Scott was able to put it back in for me! (Whew!)
 

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If the alarm (no it's not the whole alarm, part of it - I think it is the immobiliser ) is disabled in the BECM there is no EKA and headaches reduce by half .... this COULD be good news.

I have no EKA with my Gulf spec. and understand Aussie is the same.
 

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Spiggy there is an EKA for my 2000 here but they came programmed with no radio code required....also I think the earlier models may not have EKA but not sure.
 

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That's interesting - maybe it is just Gulf region then? I've had 2 here and neither with an EKA code .....

It can be set in the BECM, anyway.
 

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FYI: 65% 0f all BECM's I work on do not have an EKA code, nor is the EKA code enabled in the BECM. Every BECM which leaves our shop is programmed with the EKA code and of course it is enabled.

Scotty
 

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I've heard rumours that if there is no EKA programmed (ie: 0000) then by doing the four turns to 'lock' followed by one turn to 'unlock' this effectively enters the EKA of '0000'

I haven't had the time yet to program a spare BECM to test it with - but could be interesting to know. I also haven't had a chance to test whether disabling the EKA actually prevents the need from putting it in, or just makes it impossible to enter, should you need it. I always had been told that disabling the EKA meant that should you need to put it in, then the BECM would just ignore it, rather than disable the need to use it - but I've had a couple of owners within the last 6 months tell me their EKA is disabled and they've never had to use it. I don't know if they've just been lucky or what.

One day when I get some time, I'm going to clone my own RR's BECM onto a spare one and then play around with all the options and make a list of what outcomes there are when various options are enabled/disabled.... almost a 'mythbusters' on BECM theories...

Going on my current work schedule it could be a little while before I manage to get stuck into in properly though!

Marty
 

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That would certainly qualify as entering 4 zeros.....
Based upon the number of Myths and rumors abounding about Becms, that would be an awesome idea.
Having factual, repeatable information would go a long way towards fast troubleshooting.
Possibly Mr Scott out there in the So Cal Hinterlands could do this as well and notes could be compared?
I have an Becm in my 00 parts car that I have actually tried to get it to alarm and disable the engine...I cant!
I will be sending it to Scotty to analyze as there could be some combination of things that are in play that prevent immobilisation.
I can just imagine a Mythbusters type of video with You and Scotty debunking all the P-38 Myths....Then, of course, Gratuitously blowing one to smithereens!!!:dance:
I for one, would buy that video! :-D
 

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Haha... Well... I will see what I can work on when I next have some time at home...

I've currently been working on shortening a fascia loom to make it a bit more manageable for bench testing... the plan eventually is to have a shortened version of all the looms that connect through to the BECM so I can build a bench test bay. It's going to take awhile to do that though! Then on the list at some point is to try and modify a BECM power board to override the bulb failure messages, so that LED lamps could be used for indicators, reverse, brake lamps etc without having to use power resistors - which in my mind defeats the purpose of using LEDs in the first place!

One day it'll happen!

Marty
 

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Then on the list at some point is to try and modify a BECM power board to override the bulb failure messages, so that LED lamps could be used
But then it won't tell you if one isn't working because the bulbholder is dirty? In the last year or so, mine has told me that both of my rear stoplight bulbs had gone but each time it was just the bulb and holder that needed cleaning. That will still affect LED bulbs.
 

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But then it won't tell you if one isn't working because the bulbholder is dirty? In the last year or so, mine has told me that both of my rear stoplight bulbs had gone but each time it was just the bulb and holder that needed cleaning. That will still affect LED bulbs.
Yes, it's a very valid point. I have been looking into ways of making it so that it will still do the notification with the LED lamps.

The first idea is to see if I can bypass it - if so, then at least I will be able to understand the signal required to detect a lamp failure. Once I've figured out how it reads a fault condition, then I will be able to look at a way of building a sensing circuit that will be able to detect if one has failed and signal that on to the BECM.

I've already tried looking into different replacements for the MOSFETs on the power board, to see if there are some lower rated ones that are suitable for LED, but so dar haven't found anything which is a direct replacement.

Seems like a lot of work, I know but I like a challenge, and I don't see the point in trying to reduce power draw with LEDs to then just whack some power resistors in to waste power to stop the failure warning.
 

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The whole "Fool the Becm into allowing the use of Leds" exercise is an interesting one, but, basically.....Why?? It's not like reduced consumption will make a difference in mileage.
Tail light bulbs are cheap, and frankly, last a looooong time. I have had indications 4 times, on 2 trucks and 3 of them were dirty contacts.
I suspect the Becm is detecting the presence of a good filament in a given circuit by it's power draw, and an Led does not draw enough power.
The use of resistors is simply to use more power so the Becm thinks there is something there.
Another problem with a power resistor, is that it will continue to tell the Becm the bulb is good even if it fails, get's corroded, or is even removed.......
I do not believe the solution will be found with different MosFets, I think you would need to re program the Becm to accept a lower value of "Good".
Either that, or figure out what the Becm uses as a shunt (If anything) and tweak that a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thread seems to have gone off topic. Doors keep locking themselves annoyingly. If I install an aftermarket kit to handle the door locking, can I get the BECM to ignore the doors completely and if so how?
 

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