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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yet again the a/c has failed on the old girl. The reman a/c compressor has been working a beauty, for any considering reman over new.
When installed I had to reuse the original clutch as the replacement was for a different model and didn't quite fit.
The a/c clutch has burned, there was considerable smoke after restarting one morning. Everything else checks out.
So here is the issue, I don't want to buy a complete a/c compressor+clutch. Where can I find just the clutch?
The compressor model is JPB500210 sanden PXV16
2006 Range Rover HSE 4.4L
I've tried google, forum search, ebay, amazon, oreilleys, autozone, advance auto parts. I'm at my wits end.
Thanks
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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make sure to replace the expansion valve and the drier with any new AC compressor parts also inspect the system for a pinched line
 

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make sure to replace the expansion valve and the drier with any new AC compressor parts also inspect the system for a pinched line
+ 1000

We will keep reminding OP that this is more than just a matter of finding a replacement clutch until it sinks in.

Had a compressor replaced (again, under warranty) after the shop didn’t replace the expansion valve. Killed the first new one in a matter of months.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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How about this?


Not mine, just found it on Ebay, no idea on quality, but it says it has a 3 year warrantee. There are some snap rings inside the clutch that are a major PITA to get off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
+ 1000

We will keep reminding OP that this is more than just a matter of finding a replacement clutch until it sinks in.

Had a compressor replaced (again, under warranty) after the shop didn’t replace the expansion valve. Killed the first new one in a matter of months.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Compressor, drier, expansion valve: all new. This isn't my first dog and pony show.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How about this?


Not mine, just found it on Ebay, no idea on quality, but it says it has a 3 year warrantee. There are some snap rings inside the clutch that are a major PITA to get off.
This is awesome! Thank you soo much! I was getting close to buying a whole compressor and decided to check back here first.
A six pack for you my friend 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The clutch kit form Ebay works perfectly. About 300 miles of use so far.
Even being a Chinese aftermarket part the quality seems on par with any other clutch kit I've come across.
For anyone else who runs into this issue I highly recommend this replacement.
Things to note: this clutch kit came with shims that re too small in diameter to adjust the air-gap, using the original shim is your only option. Remember its a simple shim with little load, you can make your own if needed using a flat file to adjust the thickness.
The airgap you are looking for is .4-.8mm (original had .5mm and gave same gap with new clutch kit)*per sanden do not exceed 1.3mm airgap as the clutch will not engage properly. For some reason these specs were nowhere to be found, the max spec was pulled from instructions to this same compressor used on a different vehicle.
The ebay seller is: red*smile on eBay

I hope this will help anyone else who runs into this problem.
Big thank you to MARK_C, for some reason my ebay searches came up empty for this part.
This Florida heat was starting to kill me haha
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged L322
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I'm waiting on a new drier and expansion valve to arrive today. Is the Behr part from AB all I need for the drier or do I also need the desiccant cartridge sold separately that I see listed on the Advance Auto website? Are these parts I can change myself or does the AC system need to be discharged first? I know it needs to be charged after they're installed. How do you know it's the clutch after changing these parts if the AC is still not working?

I have more questions too ;)
 

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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Drier - Best I can tell the cartridge one is for diesel engines. My '06 was integrated into condenser, bottom drivers side (LHD). I don't know if you can get to it while it is in the vehicle. I pulled the grille and slam panel that holds the hood latches, only a handful of bolts and comes off quickly. Personally, I weighed the cost of putting in a new drier vs just buying a new condenser. I went with a new condenser.

You need to remove all of the freon. Shops will pull it and recycle it for you. It's not right to dump it into the atmosphere but still people do.

You will need new o-rings. Guessing you will need all of them. They are not exactly normal size. I had to buy them individually from dealer, not cheap. I couldn't find them anywhere else. I ended up not using them because I found away around opening up the A/C system when removing valve cover.

All the parts can be replaced by yourself in a garage. Airing up the system will require a vacuum machine, gauges, oil and R134a. If you have it all apart, I would also suggest flushing the lines with a solvent.
 

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2006 Range Rover Supercharged L322
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@lenlo you wouldn't happen to have the part numbers for those o-rings would you? Nobody mentioned needing them before and I haven't seen them in my research.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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The dryer on my 06 4.4L is mounted vertically in a tube on the left side of the condenser, its some little plastic thing that looks like a long skinny oil filter with a plastic rod up the center . I couldn't figure out how to get it out, as there is some kind of pressed in plug on the top of it and I didn't want to screw it up. Theres supposed to be a sealing plug and clip below it but I didn't know how far below the cap those parts are so I left it alone. I had a failed compressor so I was doing both (trying) at the same time, but I couldn't get it out. I also could not get the connector between the condenser and the inlet and outlet hoses apart. Both hoses come together in a single bolted connection that attaches to the right side of the condenser. I could get the bolt out but the two halves were stuck together and no amount of wiggling, pulling or tapping was getting it apart, so I just decided to leave well enough alone and just replace the compressor, oil and refrigerant.
 

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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Mark, was your drier inside the condenser or external to the condenser? I'm guessing it was inside but there are two models listed. I think the external one is for the TDI.

When I compared the cost of replacing just the drier vs a good aftermarket condenser that included a new drier, it was less than $100 difference. Given Behr's track record here with radiators, I'll bet on an aftermarket one. Often times when compressors let go they release lots of debris that plug the expansion valve and condenser. You can flush them but there are two issues. You should not flush through a drier and the orifices in the condenser are so small that it makes it nearly impossible to really clear it out. If a piece of debris does break free later, it can plug the expansion valve. For $100 more, start with a fresh one. If the condenser has not been exposed to the atmosphere for very long and you don't suspect any debris has gone through the system, you could try leaving it alone and pulling the system under a vacuum for a long period of time to boil out the moisture.

Personally, since A/C is a pain when it's not working, I'm willing to throw a few more bucks at it in preventative maintenance. Ideally you would flush the entire system and start with zero oil or debris in the system. Then add the correct amount of oil to the compressor instead of guessing how much to add. You are not supposed to flush through the expansion valve, drier or accumulator. But honestly, if I had to change a compressor on it, I would remove the two lines from the condenser and plug the condenser immediately. Then flush the lines in both directions with the compressor removed into a towel to inspect for debris. If the txv valve was preventing the flush, remove it and flush through the evaporator and lines separately. If there was any debris, replace the txv and condenser.

I think doing the job right would involve replacement of all of the following:
Drier
The low pressure hose (JUE500871). I'm pretty certain there is a filter in that bulge on the hose that acts as an accumulator
The schraeder valves for both high and low sides
txv expansion valve

Here are the list of part numbers for all things A/C on the 2006 that are under the hood. The high pressure line that runs above the fan shroud is probably the worst run A/C line in history.
294945
 
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